Shopgirls
Page 30
Kittner, Annie 171
Kramer, Billy J. 211
Kramer, Elaine 211
labour movement 98–9, 217–18
Labour Party 113, 117, 167–8
Ladies National Association 57
Ladies of Langham Place 13, 28, 29
Lancaster, Osbert 67
Land Army 186, 193, 198
Langtry, Lily 79
late-night shopping 41
LCC Theatres and Music Hall Committee 88
Lemere, Henry Bedford 65–6
Lend-Lease agreement 193
Lennon, John 210
Let It Rock, Kings Road 227
Lewis Separates 213–14
Lewis, Bernard 214
Lewis, Edmund 35, 39, 110
Lewis, Henry 35, 39, 110
Lewis, John 144–5, 146, 147, 158–9, 161, 162
Lewis, Oswald 146, 159–60
Lewis, Russell 35, 39, 110
Lewis, Samuel 39–40
Lewis, Spedan (John) 145, 146–7, 148, 149, 160–2, 163–4, 190
Lewis, Tom 35, 39, 110
Lewis’s, Liverpool 186, 191
Liberal Party 111–12, 114, 123
Liberty, Arthur Lasenby 70
Liberty’s, London 67, 70
Lilley and Skinner, London 119, 122
Lilley, Kate 122
Lilley, Louise 122
Link, The 98
Linton, Eliza 72–4, 75; ‘The Girl of the Period’ 72–3; ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’ 73–4
Littlewoods 169, 170, 173
Liverpool 4, 10, 69, 78, 79, 110, 127, 127, 128, 142, 143, 167, 168–9, 186, 191
Liverpool Mercury 78
living-in 24–5, 27, 38–41, 83, 99–100, 108–9, 116, 117, 130–31, 138, 147, 148, 152, 160, 208
living wage 51, 113, 114, 115, 116, 156
Lloyd George, David 81, 112, 114, 122, 127, 128, 149, 160, 232
Lloyd, Mary 88
Loftie, Jeannie 88
London; Bayswater 17–18, 21–2, 71, 177; Carnaby Street 206, 207, 211; Hyde Park 2, 17, 24, 43, 69, 146; Kensington 160, 165, 177, 189, 207, 211, 227, 228; Kensington High Street 160, 165, 177, 189, 227; King’s Road 147, 203–4, 205, 206, 207, 211, 224, 227; Knightsbridge 22–3, 212; Lewisham High Street 197–8; Oxford Street 8, 35, 39, 108, 111, 119, 133, 137, 144, 159, 162, 190, 199, 228; Regent Street 23, 53, 57–9, 213; Piccadilly 53, 78, 80, 223 (see also East End and West End)
London Can Take It! 189
London Co-operatives, Romford 195
London Magazine 19, 139–40
Lord & Taylor 129
Lord, Sarah 3
Lorimer, Florence 163
Lubbock, Sir John 43–4, 46, 47, 49
Lucile (Lucy Christiana Sutherland) 79–81
Luftwaffe 179, 183, 188
Lulu 210
Lydon, John 227
Lyons Corner Houses 176
Macarthur, Mary 102, 103
MacDonald, Ramsay 167
Macmillan, Harold 215–16
Macy’s, New York 129, 173
Madam Burton’s, Newport, Isle of Wight 182, 188
magazines 19, 42, 68, 69, 76, 79, 80, 82–3, 85, 86–7, 89, 95, 119, 123, 132, 139, 176, 177, 193, 204, 205, 208, 215, 223
Malvery, Olive Christian 140–41
management 127–52, 173–7
Manchester 10, 11, 16, 17, 26, 36, 69, 107, 120, 128, 142, 166, 175, 205, 211, 213, 229
mannequins 78, 79, 80, 136, 137
market towns 4, 5, 17, 22, 68, 135, 231
Markham, London 210
Marks & Spencer 166, 167, 168, 169, 172, 173–6, 180, 191, 197–8, 230, 231
Marks, Michael 166
Marks, Simon 166, 167, 168, 173–4, 175
Marmaysee, Monsieur Germain 53–4
marriage 40, 64–5, 83–4, 214, 222
married women 13, 51, 155, 196, 198, 216
Marquis, Lord Woolton, Frederick 186
Marshall and Snelgrove, Oxford Street 213, 228
Marshall, Jeanette 66–7, 68
Martindale, Hilda 94
Martindale, Louisa 94
Martineau, Harriet 11, 12, 15, 27, 55, 57, 72; ‘Female Industry’ article 11, 12
Mary, Queen 159
Matlock, Glen 227
Mawer & Collingham, Lincoln 142, 144, 172
Mayhew, Henry 41, 68; London Labour and the London Poor 68
McIlroy’s of Hanley 116–17
McLaren, Malcolm 227
McNeil, Susannah 7
McVitie’s 134
medieval shops 5, 26
Melly, Diana (Dawson) 204–5
Mendleson, Anna 227
Methodists 25, 35, 41
middle class 14, 15, 17, 26, 28, 43, 66, 69, 89, 90, 95, 98, 118, 119, 131, 162, 169, 170, 192, 203, 215
migration 228
milliners 3, 4, 8, 18, 24, 29, 45, 51, 52, 54–5, 56, 59, 69, 84, 203
Mills & Boon 84–5
minimum wage 114–18, 156, 158–9
Ministry of Food 185, 186, 196, 198
Ministry of Information 180, 184
Ministry of Labour 155, 196
Miss Selfridge 213
Miss World 222, 223, 224
Morgan, Elizabeth 128
Morning Post, The 56, 67, 82
Moss, Martin 212
motherhood 15, 49, 220
Mr Selfridge xiii
Mrs Jupp’s Pantry, Bayswater 176–7, 189
‘multiple’ stores 15, 29, 133–4 see also chain stores
Munby, Arthur 2–3, 24, 27, 28, 69
music hall 52, 76, 87–8, 159
musical comedy 64–5, 87–9, 163
National Amalgamated Union of Shop Assistants, Warehouseman & Clerks (NAUSAW&C) 99, 102, 112, 116, 120, 145, 152
National Anti-Sweating League 113
National Early Closing League 43
National Health Society 45
National Institute of Industrial Psychology (NIIP) 173–4
National Insurance Act, 1911 112
National Union of Shop Assistants 93, 99
National Union of Women’s Suffrage Societies (NUWSS) 118, 120
National Women’s Liberation Conference, Ruskin College, Oxford, 1970 219–22
Nazi Party 174, 179–80, 182, 183, 184, 194
New Look 203
New York 129, 130, 167, 173
Newby, Eric 192
Newcastle 25, 26, 27, 36, 110, 142, 166, 172, 220
Newton, Robert 58
Non-Conformism 14, 26, 81
Norwich 6
Nottingham 211
novels 16, 72, 84–5, 89, 171, 174
Osborne, Doris 188
Owanabae, Dorothy 229, 238
Owen Snr, Owen 127–8
Owen, Ellen 129
Owen, Owen 110, 127–30, 131, 132, 133, 142
Oxford 35, 39, 110, 119, 133, 137, 162, 219, 220, 230
Pall Mall Gazette, The 38
Pankhurst, Christabel 120
Pankhurst, Emmeline 118, 120, 123
Pankhurst, Sylvia 120, 121
Paquins 140
Paradise, The xiii
Paris 52, 69–70, 72, 77, 78, 79, 80, 111, 129, 198, 223
part-time work 196, 216–18, 235
‘Passing of the Grocer’ debate 133
paternalism 24–5, 26–7, 97, 130
Pennyhapenny Boutique, The 210
People’s Budget, 1909 112
People’s Store 107
Peter Jones, London 147, 148, 149, 160–4, 190
Peter Robinson’s, London 119, 149
Pettigrew, Agnes 102, 103
Piggly Wiggly 195
Pink Floyd 211, 227
Pioneer, The 117
Pollock, Alice 205
Pollyanna, Barnsley 211–12
Pontings, Kensington 160, 207, 228
pop music 205, 210, 211
Portas, Mary 233, 235
Prejudiced Guide 137–8, 156
The Pretty Things 210
productivity 130, 173, 174
profit sharing 103, 105, 147, 148, 149, 160–1
profiteering 193
prostitution 12, 52–60, 65, 67, 68, 71, 97, 162
public parks 68–9
Punch 68
Pygmalia, Manchester 211
Quant, Mary 203–4, 205, 206, 207, 208, 210, 212, 213, 214, 217
Queen 204
Quorum, Kings Road 205, 210–11
R.S. McColl’s 173
RAF 188, 189, 198
rationing 181, 185–7, 191–2, 203, 214
Rave 205, 210
Rawlinson, General Sir Peter 224
Rayner, Horace 90–91
ready-to-wear 169
Red Cross 194
Reform Acts: 1832 11, 98; 1884 121; 1928 172
Reform Movement 11
Regal Corset 122
Regency arcades 52
Reginbal, Margaret 53–4
Representation of the People Act, 1918 124
Restoration of Pre-War Practices Act, 1919 155–6
Reynold’s Newspaper 55
Reynolds, Quentin 189
Rhodes, Zandra 209
Richardson, Mary 124
Rochdale Equitable Pioneers Society 103
‘Rochdale Principles’ 103–4
Rockhey 144
Roger Edwards and Co. 117
Rowbotham, Sheila 220
Royal College of Art, London 212
Ruskin College, Oxford 220, 221, 222
Ruskin, John 219
Salaman, Ralph 180
Salford Art School 205
Saturday girls 216
Saunders-Roe 188
Savile Row, London 206
Seats for Shop Workers Act, 1899 46
Second World War, 1939–45 181–200
self-help 104–5, 112
self-service 195
Selfridge, Harry Gordon xiii, 111, 119, 123, 133, 136, 137, 138–40, 141, 171
Selfridges, Oxford Street 111, 119, 122–3, 124, 133, 136, 137, 138–40, 141, 144, 148, 171, 190, 213, 235
servants 2, 12, 14–15, 24, 28, 34, 36, 39, 44, 48, 53–4, 76, 81, 82, 90, 96, 119, 142, 165, 207–8, 212, 217
Sex, Kings Road 227
Sex Pistols 227
sex work 52–6
sexualisation and sexuality 12, 40, 41, 52–60, 65, 67, 68, 71, 72, 73, 79, 81, 83, 85, 86–7, 89, 94, 97, 162, 176, 204, 208, 214, 222
Shaw, George Bernard 171
Shaw, Sandie 210
Shipley, Christine 211
‘shop-and-house’ layout 5
Shop Assistant, The 95
shop assistants: clothing 27, 50, 149; duties 36, 51, 132, 136–7, 139, 163, 190, 231–2; entertainments 27, 51–2, 82–8, 110–11; health 23, 29, 44–50; hours 2, 3, 18, 25, 27, 28, 34, 41–50, 55, 83, 88, 96, 97, 99–100, 107, 109, 110, 139, 147, 152, 158, 176, 217; part-time 196, 216, 217, 218; rules and penalties 24, 35, 37–9, 41, 45, 46, 50, 58, 93, 97, 99, 108, 139, 196; social clubs 27, 36, 110, 164–5; training 29, 111, 139, 150, 152, 175–6, 190, 211; wages 23–4, 38, 39, 47, 49, 50–1, 53, 55, 56, 57, 65, 81, 98, 101–2, 104, 108, 112–18, 139, 145–6, 147, 148, 152, 156, 157, 158– 61, 168–9, 172–3, 176, 184, 204, 216, 217, 218–19, 222, 225, 232; working conditions 2, 3, 18, 20, 34, 38–41, 42, 44–8, 50, 83, 85, 93–100, 106–10, 114, 115, 147, 152, 157–8, 162, 167, 168, 175 see also ‘living-in’
The Shop Girl (musical comedy) 89
Shop Girls (Applin) 84–5
Shop Hours Act, 1886 49, 50
Shop Hours League 46
Shop Hours Regulation Bill, 1873 43–4, 46
shop-lifting 74–5, 175
‘shop locally’ 230
shopocracy 23, 24, 81, 97, 117, 170
shop owners, female 177
shopping: co-operative movement and see co-operative movement; democratisation of 169–70; elevation of female customer 65–7; formality of experience 170, 172, 204; late-night 42; link between sex and 56; nineteenth-century experience of 4–5; overseas influence on British 15, 69–71, 72, 80, 127, 129–33, 134, 138–9, 141, 144, 167, 173, 176, 189, 195, 204, 206, 209, 229; philosophy of 73–4; shopping centres and 229–32; suffragism and see suffragism; unpleasant experience of 8–9; war and see First World War and Second World War, 229 see also individual store names
shopping malls 229
Shops Bill, 1904 109
shopwalkers and floorwalkers 35, 38, 83, 100, 132, 136, 137–8, 159, 174
Sketch 79
Skippon, John 7
Smiles, Samuel 104–5
Smith, Madeline 209
Smith, Paul 211
Smith, Samuel 5
Snowden, Philip 113
Social Notes 51–2
Social Twitters 51
Society for Promoting the Employment of Women 12–14, 43–4, 48
Solomon, Flora 165–6, 167–8, 172, 173, 174–5, 176
Spanish Civil War, 1936–9 179–80
Sparks 176
Spectator, The 44
Spencer, Tom 166
spending, post-war 215
Spurling, Hall 198
St Helens Traders’ Defence Association 105
St Helier, Jersey 183–4, 194–5, 199–200
Steer, George 179–80
Stephen, John 206
Stirling, Bobbie 159
Stoddart’s drapery store, Witney, Oxfordshire 3
‘The Store’ 103
Store Management 170
street-sellers 68
strikes 99, 108–9, 117, 118, 124, 155, 157–60, 168, 218–19
Sufffrage Annual Who’s Who 119
Suffragette, The (play) 119
Suffragette, The (magazine) 119
suffragism 118–25
Sunderland 107–8
Sunderland Co-op Society 107–8
Sunlight soap 134
Sutherst, Thomas 46–7, 49; Death and Disease behind the Counter 46–7
Sutherland, Lucy Christiana (Lucile) 79–81
Swan & Edgar 119, 122, 228
sweated trades 113, 115
Tait, William 55; An Inquiry into the Extent, Causes and Consequences of Prostitution in Edinburgh 56
Tatler 207
Taylor, Doris 198
Taylor, Frederick Winslow 130, 173
Taylorism 130
Teeton’s drapers, Hanley 117
textile workers 16, 34, 43, 49, 50, 94, 120, 155, 159, 228
Thatcher, Margaret 230–2, 233
theatre 87–9, 90, 119, 142, 159
They Also Serve (documentary) 184–5
Thompson, Alice 198
Thompson, Mrs Gilchrist 95
tie-ins 171
Times, The 44, 45, 141, 157, 179, 181
Top Gear 210
trade boards 114–15
trade unions 93, 95, 98–103, 106, 108, 110, 111, 112, 114, 115–18, 120, 121, 125, 145, 152, 156–9, 218, 220, 221, 224
Traders’ Defence League 105
Trades Union Congress (TUC) 102, 221
Tradesman and Shopkeeper 105
Trollope, Anthony 66, 85
Tuffin, Sally 212
Turner, Louisa 90
Twenty Club 127
21 Shop 212, 213
Twiggy (Lesley Hornby) 213
unemployment 56, 90, 155, 160, 162, 168, 173, 215–16
Union of Shop, Distributive and Allied Workers (USDAW) 218, 221
United Shop Assistants Union of London 99
universities 49, 107, 124, 146, 162, 214, 219, 223
upper class 28, 71, 137
V-1 flying bombs 197–8
Vanity Fair 123
‘variety’ chain store, inter-war boom in 170–1
Vicious, Sid 227
Victoria and Albert, London 210
Victoria, Queen: Golden Jubilee 68
Vigilance Committee of London 59
Vogue 204, 207, 213
Vote, The 119
Votes for Women 119, 120, 123
W.H. Smith 229
W.H. Watts 144
Waitrose 230
Walkers 150
Wallis 227
war work 143–52, 179–200 see also First World War; Second World War
War Emergency Committee 149
War Office 144, 156
‘War of the Windows’ 122
Ward, Mary 9
Warhol, Andy 210
Wells, H.G. 17
Wesleyan Methodists 25
West End, London 44, 53, 54, 56, 59, 81, 95–6, 113, 119, 122, 158, 229, see also London
West End London Street Scene, A (poster) 199
Westwood, Vivien 227
Wey, Francis: Les Anglais Chez Eux (The British at Home) 8
Whiteley, Harriet 18, 20, 21, 63–4
Whiteley, William 16, 17, 18–22, 26–7, 30, 37–8, 63–4, 71, 90–1, 137, 139, 196. 234
Whiteley’s, Bayswater xiii, 18–22, 26–7, 30, 37–8, 41, 63, 66, 67, 71, 72, 75, 85, 108, 137, 139, 157–8, 209, 228
Wholesale Textile 159
Wilkinson, Tudor 80
Williams and Hopkins, Bournemouth 213
Wilson, Harold 218
window-dressing 141–2, 198
Wisbech 4–6, 7, 10, 16, 23, 34
Wise, Audrey 221
Woman Question 11
Women’s Christian Temperance Union, U.S. 87
Women’s Co-operative Guild 106, 107, 108, 115, 116, 118, 120
Women’s Industrial Council 94, 95, 113, 118
Women’s Liberation Movement 222–3
Women’s Own 204
Women’s Press 122
Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU) 118, 120, 121, 123
Women’s Voluntary Service 180
Wood-Allen, Dr Mary 87; What a Young Woman Ought to Know 87
Woodward, Henrietta 3
Woolf, Virginia xi–xii, xv
Woollands, Knightsbridge 212, 213
Woolwich Arsenal, London 151–2
Woolworth, Frank W. 167
Woolworths 166–7, 170, 180, 188, 191, 196, 197
Worcester 55
working mothers 216
Working Women’s Charter 221
Worth, Charles 77–8, 79
Young, Rosie 209
Young, Sarah 209
Zola, Émile xii–xiii; The Ladies’ Paradise xii, xiii
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