by Wade Davis
Bruce, Geoffrey, 377–8, 387, 393, 409, 452, 457, 470, 481, 482, 493, 526; as candidate for 1924 expedition, 462, 471; configuration of climbing parties and (1924), 495, 496, 525, 527, 528, 530; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s audience and, 511, 512; evacuated to Kharta, 441, 446; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–30, 531–2, 537, 538, 540, 542, 546, 547, 548, 549, 550; first failed campaign and (1924), 501, 505, 506–8, 509; frostbite suffered by, 435, 436–7, 438, 440; heart injury of, 529, 530; height record set by, 433, 434, 437, 439, 477; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 394–5, 404, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 489, 496; leadership skills of, 514; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546, 547, 548, 549, 550, 556, 560; Mallory team’s summit attempt and (1922), 419, 426, 427–8; second failed campaign and (1924), 514, 517–18, 519, 521, 522; summit attempt of (1922), 428–35, 436–7, 438, 439, 445, 446, 463, 477, 524, 533
Buchan, John (later Lord Tweedsmuir), 61, 94, 95, 109, 125, 158, 364, 453, 454, 459, 561
Buchanan, A. R., 95
Buddha Shakyamuni, 246, 252, 271, 304
Buddhism, 60, 66–7, 103–4, 243; beyuls (sacred valleys) and, 254, 299–302; Bruce’s explanation of Everest expedition in terms of, 405; chöd practice (“cutting through” of attachment) in, 270–1, 272, 273; dissemination and history in Tibet of, 246, 252–4, 446–7; Four Noble Truths of, 252–3; Gelugpa, or Yellow Hat, sect, 47–8, 219, 247; hermits and (see hermits); Mani Rimdu ritual and, 446–7; Noel’s The Epic of Everest, and, 562, 563; pilgrimage and, 48–9, 67, 116, 250–1, 253, 254, 258, 261, 272, 299, 300–1, 304, 305, 321–2, 402, 447–8; prayer flags and, 486–7; prayer wheels and, 219, 497; sacred places and, 66–7, 112, 252, 253–4, 258, 259, 261–2, 264, 268, 269–73, 299–302, 304, 305, 321–2, 323. See also specific monasteries and lamas
Bulley, A. K., 157
Bullock, Alice, 204, 261, 279, 308, 364
Bullock, Guy, 155–6, 159, 160, 165, 168, 203, 204, 206, 233, 369, 403, 458; assault on Everest and (1921), 339–40, 342, 345, 346, 348, 351, 352–60, 361–2; in consular service, 155–6, 458, 470; diary kept by, 460; end of 1921 expedition and, 362–3, 364; first views of Everest and, 235–6, 240, 241, 242–3, 244, 249–50; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 206, 207–8, 215, 216, 217; journey of, from Rongbuk to Kharta, 306–8; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 221, 223, 226, 227, 235–6, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242–3, 244, 247, 248–50, 256; in Kharta, 308, 309, 336; Mallory’s opinion of, 235, 278, 310, 338; porters trained for snows by, 238; reconnaissance of Everest approaches and, 256, 259, 260–3, 269, 273–83, 285, 286–92, 293, 305, 306, 310–19, 320, 323–30, 333–6 (see also specific sites); temperament of, 155; tensions between Mallory and, 279, 338; in Tingri, 259
burial practices: in Tibet (sky burial), 59, 116, 248, 270, 455; war’s impact on, 233
Burma, 45, 48, 50, 230
Bury, Lady Emily Alfreda Julia, 102
Bussy, Simon and Dorothy, 180
Cain, Herbert, 5
Caledonia, SS, 379, 380, 381–3, 387, 388–9
California, SS, 485
Cambridge, 4, 8, 19–20, 296, 489; Mallory as lecturer at, 466–7, 479–80, 485; Mallory as student at, 168, 169–71, 172–3, 176, 180, 467; Mallory’s circle of friends at, 173–7, 180–1; memorial for Mallory and Irvine at, 556; passion for mountaineering at, 176; women excluded from much of life at, 171, 179; young men’s relationships at, 169–71, 172–3, 179–80, 478
Campbell, Wentworth Edward Dallas “Bertie,” 150
Canadian Rockies, 217
Carruthers, Douglas, 138
Carstensz, Mount, 139–40
Casement, Roger, 8
Cater, Acting Foreign Secretary, 111–12
Caucasus, 69, 130
Cavalry Training, 15
censorship, 95
Central Hall (London), 1922 expedition members’ talks at, 457–8
Chakrasamvara, Buddha, 66
Chamonix Olympics, 480
Chandler, Edmund, 58, 60, 61
Chandra Das, Sarat, 81, 82
Chang La. See North Col
Changtse (North Peak), 257, 277, 282, 292, 317, 318, 329, 334, 403, 415
Chao Erh-feng, 119, 120
Charles I of Austria, Emperor, 380
Charterhouse School: Mallory as schoolmaster at, 181–3, 186–9, 199, 200–1, 449, 459, 466; war dead from, 186–7, 189
Chefoo Convention of 1876, 48
Chelmsford, Lord (viceroy), 112–13
Chesterton, G. K., 94
Chheten Wangdi, 204, 218, 244, 298–9, 303, 308, 323, 363
Chilka, SS, 387, 395
China, 101, 103, 210; British relations with, 48, 52, 53, 56, 74; North-East Frontier and, 208, 209; Simla Convention of 1914 and, 121–2; Sun Yat-sen’s revolution in, 120; Tibetan relations with, 48, 49, 53, 59, 75, 113, 115, 116, 118–22, 252, 255, 564, 565
Ch’ing dynasty, 48, 209; collapse of, 120, 121
chlorine gas, 88
Chöbuk, Tibet, 260, 261, 291, 292, 293, 294, 306, 307, 330, 333, 451, 498
chöd practice (“cutting through” of attachment), 270–1, 272, 273
Chog La, 309, 325
Chogolisa (Bride Peak), 78, 428
Chomiomo, 76, 226, 228
Chomolhari, 117, 217, 220–1, 222, 224, 225, 237–8, 242, 492
Chomo Lonzo, 64, 249, 257, 313, 314, 316, 323, 324, 325
Chomolungma: translations and meanings of, 310–11; two mountains known as, 312. See also Everest
Chongay, 418
Cho Oyu, 249, 256, 257, 258–9, 263–4, 281, 403, 424, 542
Chorat-Sung, 284
Chorten Nyima La, 81
chortens, 243, 270
Christy, Gerald, 458
Chulungphu, 297
Chumbi Valley, 119, 121, 382; British control over, 59–60, 118; Howard-Bury’s travels in, 114–18; 1921 Everest expedition’s route through, 207, 214, 217–18, 364; 1922 Everest expedition’s route through, 394, 396; 1924 Everest expedition’s route through, 488; as trade route between Sikkim and Tibet, 52, 56; Younghusband Mission and, 56, 57, 59–60, 68, 112, 118. See also Yatung
Churchill, Winston, 72, 129, 132–3, 172, 173, 183, 188, 454
Chushar Nango, 238, 242
Chutin, 540
Climbers’ Club, 176, 177
Climbers’ Club Journal, 144
Climbing Mount Everest, 384, 449, 455, 467, 471, 561
Clive, Sidney, 97
Cobden-Sanderson, Stella, 539, 542
Coldstream, Colonel, 111
Collie, Norman, 85, 93, 126, 128, 141, 144, 152, 158, 453, 462, 473, 560
colonialism: image in, 42–3. See also British Empire
Conan Doyle, Arthur, 94
Connaught, Duke of, 42, 295, 560
Conway, Sir Martin, 70–1, 72, 125, 157–8, 558
coolies: guidelines for employment of, 213; use of term, 203
Cooper, Nancy, 559
Craig, Alexander, 192
crampons, 71, 274, 290, 371, 502, 516, 519, 571
Cranage, Rev. David, 466, 479–80
Crawford, Colin (Ferdie), 377, 409, 416, 440, 470, 564; colleagues’ assessments of, 377, 390–1; illness of, 412, 416; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 395–6, 398, 399, 407–8; overdosed by Wakefield, 435–6; third summit attempt and, 435–6, 440, 441–4, 445
cremation, 233
Curzon, George Nathaniel, Lord, 40–3, 46–7, 103, 111, 144, 156, 198; access through Nepal sought by, 68, 70, 74, 75; curvature of spine suffered by, 40, 41; Everest climb proposed by, 68–70, 73, 74; imperial ritual and, 42–3; personality and demeanor of, 41; Russian threat and, 51, 52, 53, 54; Tibetan relations and, 52–3, 118; travels of, 40; as viceroy of India, 41–3, 51, 52–3, 54, 68, 70; Younghusband expedition and, 53, 61, 68
Cwm Idwal, 475
Dabla, 492
Daily Chronicle, 125
Daily Graphic, 556
Daily Mail, 33, 58, 89, 95, 126
; Daily Mirror, 95
Daily News, 9
Daily Sketch, 562
Dak, Tibet, 302
Dalai Lama, Thirteenth, 52, 53, 55–6, 57, 59, 118, 132, 382, 405; Bell’s relationship with, 113, 114, 116, 120, 122–3, 124, 366; British cause during war supported by, 114; Chinese invasion and exile of, 119–20, 210; Everest expedition sanctioned by, 123–4, 125, 160, 223, 269; modernization of Tibet under, 121, 122, 563, 564; Noel’s The Epic of Everest and, 563, 564
Dalai Lamas, 47–8, 219, 237, 247
Darjeeling, 45, 47, 50, 55, 56, 63, 68, 78, 107, 113, 115, 121, 123, 140, 320, 390; Dalai Lama’s exile in, 114, 120; gathering of 1921 Everest team in, 165, 202–8; gathering of 1922 Everest team in, 368, 376–9, 387–8, 389, 393–4, 395–6; gathering of 1924 Everest team in, 481–6, 494; Mallory’s 1921 journey to, 162–5, 202–3; Morshead and Strutt evacuated to, 440–1, 450, 451; Noel’s photographic laboratory in, 484, 557; postal deliveries from, 218, 222; return of 1921 expedition to, 363, 364; return of 1922 expedition to, 447–8; return of 1924 expedition to, 557; setting off of 1921 expedition from, 212–13; setting off of 1922 expedition from, 394–6
Darjeeling railways, 157, 202–3
Dasno, 317–18, 415, 538
David-Neel, Alexandra, 248
Dawa, 267
Dehra Dun, India, 365, 448
Dent, Clinton, 69
Dent, Blanche, 155, 168–9, 184
devil dances, 402, 446, 455
Dibang, 209
Dickinson, Goldsworthy Lowes, 177
Dihang, 209
Dochen Lake, 225, 489
documentary films, 383–4. See also Noel, John
Donka Monastery, 219–20
Donkar La, 398
Dorjee Pasang, 509, 529, 531
Dorji Gompa, 328, 349, 350, 361
Dorzhiev, Agvan, 52–3, 57, 60
Douglas, Lord Alfred “Bosie,” 172
down coat, Finch’s invention of, 143, 386, 399, 492
Doya La, 297, 302, 446
Dreyer, Georges, 147, 385
Dug La, 207, 225, 398
Dukpa, 259, 275
Dundas, P. H., 231
Dyer, Reginald, 295, 296
Dzakar Chu, 239, 258, 260, 261, 302–3, 306, 402, 553
Dzatrul Rinpoche (Ngawang Tenzin Norbu), 271–3, 441; dream of, about first Everest expedition, 272–3; mural painted after 1922 expedition and, 499, 500; 1922 expedition’s audiences with, 404–6, 446, 447, 500; 1924 expedition’s audience with, 498, 500, 509, 510–12, 513
dzongpens (Tibetan district officers), 48
East Rongbuk Valley and Glacier, 329–34, 365, 416, 417, 427, 430; Bullock’s note of August 13, 1921, and, 328–9; camps established on and near (1922), 403, 407–8, 409, 411, 412, 451; descent from Lhakpa La to, 351, 353, 356; focus of 1922 expedition and, 368, 402–3; Mallory and Bullock’s miscalculation with regard to, 282, 292, 329; Mallory’s first sighting of, 335; Mallory’s response to Wheeler’s map of, 329–30, 333–4, 336, 339; melting of (1922), 445–6; 1921 climbing party’s route across head of, 342, 348, 349, 353, 356, 359; 1922 climbing party’s crossings at head of, 416, 417, 422; 1922 expedition’s route to, 402–3, 404; 1924 expedition’s failed campaigns on, 501–10, 513–22, 523; story of yetis at, 499–500; Wheeler’s discovery of most efficient route to North Col through, 329–34, 336, 339
Eaton, J. E. C., 126
Edgington, Benjamin, 157
Edward Arnold & Co., 74
Edward VII, King, 42, 61, 102
Egypt, 294, 454, 465; World War I and, 22, 132, 374
Elbrus, 69
Elizabeth II, Queen, 370, 565
Epic of Everest, The, 384, 557, 561–4
Eton, 167, 169, 176, 187, 296
Evans-Wentz, Walter, 247
Everest: access from Nepal to, 68, 70, 74, 75, 100, 108, 109, 278, 293, 565; access from Sikkim to, 80; access from Tibet to, 74, 75, 86, 100, 108, 109, 111–13, 123–4, 125, 366, 382, 440, 457, 564; aerial reconnaissance of, 108, 112; basic geography of, 256–7; calculating height of, 45; conquest of, as national mission, 469; corpses at, 566–70; Curzon’s proposal for attempt on, 68–70, 73; eastern approaches to, 81–3, 259, 277, 280, 282–3, 291, 293, 299, 305–6, 309–19; East Face of (see Everest—Kangshung Face of ); Europeans’ first glimpses of, 63–4, 65, 66, 69; Europeans’ lack of knowledge about, 125; exposure to high altitude on, 69, 71, 77–8, 145, 273, 281, 346, 347 (see also high-altitude exposure, physiology of; oxygen deprivation); extreme cold and bitter exposure on, 78, 145, 153, 421–2; fierce winds and spindrifts on, 352, 353, 356, 357–9, 360–1, 403, 408, 409, 421–2, 429–31, 498, 528–9, 531, 533; first expeditions to reach summit of, 565; first print suggestion to make attempt on, 69; First Step of, xvi, 534, 542, 543, 573; Hayden’s panoramic photographs of, 68, 110–11; imperial redemption as motive for assault on, 95–6, 109; inauspicious time to go near, 409; Kangshung Face of (East Face), 76, 80, 82, 83, 240, 259, 280, 293, 313, 314, 315, 316, 318, 324, 572; Kellas’s preparations for attempt on, 76–80, 81, 83–4; Lhotse Face of, 290; motivations for climbing of, 110, 465–6, 500; naming of, 45–6; new breed of climbers vs. old guard and, 456–7; Noel’s preliminary exploration of, 80–3, 123, 382; North Col of (see North Col); Northeast Ridge of, xv, xvi, 261, 262–3, 274, 276–7, 278, 282, 311, 314, 315, 316–17, 318, 337, 348, 357, 358, 365, 403, 415, 423, 424, 432, 433, 534, 535, 542, 543, 544, 546, 547, 557, 566, 567, 570–1, 572, 573; Northeast Shoulder of, 337, 348, 351, 403, 409, 415, 421, 423, 429–30, 432, 433, 435, 529, 531, 534, 541, 542, 543; northern approaches to, 86, 207, 208, 258, 262–3, 273–4, 276–7, 278, 282, 291, 305; North Face of, xvi, 235–6, 238, 261, 262–3, 274, 276, 278, 288–9, 306, 403, 415, 433–5, 543, 553, 561, 572, 573; North Ridge of, xv, 277, 278, 290, 342, 348, 365, 403, 411, 423; Northwest Ridge of, 261, 276, 277, 281; Norton Couloir on, xv–xvi, 535, 567; projection of spiritual onto, 403–4; scorching sunlight and heat on, 335, 352; Second Step of, xvi, 534, 535, 542, 543, 544, 557, 566, 570–1, 572–3; South Col of, 80, 281–2, 290, 314; southern approaches to, 277–8, 281–2, 288, 290, 291, 293, 565; surveying of, 111; technical challenges posed by, 70–1, 77–8, 125–6, 145; Third Step of, 571; Tibetan deity associated with, 499; Tibetan name of (Chomolungma), 310–11; wealthy individuals securing place on climbs of, 73–4; western approaches to, 257–9, 282, 291, 305; Western Cwm of, 277–8, 281, 282, 286–90, 292, 565; West Ridge of, 261, 262, 274, 278; Yellow Band of, 433, 534, 535, 541, 543, 557, 567, 568, 573; as young man’s game, 456
Everest, Sir George, 45–6
Everest Committee, 144, 145, 152, 360, 380, 385, 414, 428, 448, 449, 465, 466, 488, 496; Bruce’s replacement of Farrar as chair of, 455, 456; expedition members’ confidentiality agreements with, 459–63; financing of expeditions and, 156–9, 368, 394, 455–6, 467–8; Finch’s break with, 461–4; first formal meeting of, 126; members and honorary secretaries appointed to, 126–8; Noel’s photographic and film rights deal with (1924), 467–8; notified of Mallory’s and Irvine’s death, 552; organization of 1921 expedition and, 126–32; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366–71, 380, 381, 388; organization of 1924 expedition and, 455–6, 462, 472–5, 479; organization of post-1924 expeditions and, 561, 563–5; oxygen problem ignored by, 487–8; pressure for results exerted on 1922 expedition by, 440, 451; special meeting of, on Sherpas’ death in avalanche, 450–3; Wheeler’s final maps sent to, 365–6. See also Hinks, Arthur
Everest expedition of 1921, 76, 108–366, 372, 456; Alpine Club’s review of proposal for, 70–1; assault on summit in, 318–19, 334, 335, 336–62; availability of veterans of, for 1924 expedition, 470–1; base and advanced camps for, 336–7, 339–40, 342, 344–6, 348, 349, 351, 354, 363; climbing party changes during course of, 234–5, 242, 310, 342, 348–9, 351, 355; clothing of, 204, 212; communication of outside world with, 207–8; Curzon’s proposal and, 68–70; Dalai Lama’s sanctioning of, 123–4, 125, 160, 223, 269; delayed by war, 75, 83, 84, 87, 94; dispersal of team members at end of, 362–4; financial aspects of, 73�
�4, 95, 156–9, 455, 456; financial situation of men in, 458–9; Finch dropped from, 145–53, 154; first few days of, 212–16; first views of Everest along route of, 235–6, 238–44, 249–50; foreigners excluded from, 130, 141; gathering of team in Darjeeling before, 165, 202–8; geological surveys of, 126, 159, 205, 266, 305, 306, 363, 366, 367; group portrait of, high on mountain, 347; initial 1913–15 schedule for, 75; interests of Alpine Club vs. RGS in, 126; interpreters hired for, 204; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 206–8, 212–18; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218–29, 234–51, 256–7; Kellas’s death and, 228–9, 233, 235, 370, 398, 456; Kharta as base for second phase of reconnaissance in, 280, 283, 286, 291, 292, 293, 298–9, 305, 306, 308–11, 320, 323, 324, 326, 328, 333; lack of government support for, 74–5, 101; Mallory’s critique of equipment in, 371; medical review of climbers in, 145–8; memorial for casualties of, 552–3; military rhetoric and, 71; monsoon and (see monsoon); mules, ponies, and yaks for, 207, 212, 214, 215, 216, 218, 224, 237, 238, 242; newspaper coverage of, 158–9, 364–5; new species of plants and insects discovered by, 366; organization and planning of, 108–61; photographs taken by, 222, 256, 264, 265–6, 280, 284, 289, 291–2, 305, 306, 307, 322, 324, 340; porters and cooks for, 204, 218, 221, 222–3, 338, 394; porters’ role in attempts on mountain in, 349–50, 351, 352, 354, 355; porters trained for mountaineering in, 238, 275, 278–9, 280; public interest in, 365, 368, 380; Raeburn’s convalescence in Sikkim and, 234, 236, 259–60, 456; Raeburn’s return to, 340–1; reconnaissance of approaches to mountain and, 75, 101, 123, 126, 144, 256–9, 260–9, 273–93, 299, 302, 309–36, 357, 402–3; retreat of final climbing team in, 359–60, 361–2, 369; RGS and Alpine Club backing for, 75; RGS meeting to discuss organization and logistics of, 144–5; scientific promise of, 126, 144; specimens collected by, 126, 144, 157, 263, 303, 304, 323, 324; stores and supplies for, 157, 165, 214, 215, 222, 223, 225, 320; survey missions of, 206–7, 216, 217, 236, 242, 258–9, 260, 263, 264–6, 284–6, 303, 305, 306–7, 310, 320–3, 329–34, 341–2, 346, 360, 362, 363, 365–7, 395; team members selected for, 127–44, 152–6, 201, 475; Tibetans’ complaints about behavior of, 366–8, 389, 395; Tingri as base for first phase of reconnaissance in, 208, 254–60, 280, 285, 286, 291; two-mission approach to, 75, 101, 153; uncharted land traversed by, 239; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling in, 159, 162–5, 202–3, 479; water supply problem in, 355–6