by Wade Davis
Everest expedition of 1922, 3, 74, 127–8, 131, 153, 366–453, 456, 480; attempts to learn from mistakes of, 493; attire of, 398, 421; availability of veterans of, for 1924 expedition, 470–1; base and advanced camps for, 403, 407–9, 411, 412, 413, 414–18, 445, 501; Bruce promised leadership of, 369–70; confidentiality agreements signed by members of, 459–63; dates determined for, 368; distinction between climbers and support personnel in, 377; Everest Committee’s hearing on, 450–3; Everest first clearly viewed in, 402, 403–4; financial aspects of, 368, 394, 455; financial situation of men in, 458–9; Finch’s photography during, 399–400, 402, 426, 458, 459–60; frostbite suffered by members of, 421, 422, 423, 428, 435, 436–7, 438, 440–1, 448; gathering of team in Darjeeling before, 368, 376–9; heads shaved by members of, 396, 401; health problems and, 411–13, 438–9; height records set by, 424, 428, 433, 434, 437, 438, 439, 448, 452, 477; interpreter for, 394; joint meeting of RGS and Alpine Club on (1922), 457–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394–408; members of 1921 expedition unavailable for, 369; memorial for casualties of, 552–3; monsoon’s arrival during summit attempts in, 403, 408, 416, 417, 418, 440, 441, 445–6, 451, 513; monsoon season and timing of, 366, 393; mountaineering as sole focus of, 368; mural at Rongbuk Monastery related to, 499–500; nicknames acquired by members of, 401–2; Noel’s film on (Climbing Mount Everest), 384, 449, 455, 467; Noel’s photographic documentation of, 382, 383–4, 394, 402, 403–4, 408, 418, 426, 428, 429, 435, 442–3; organization of, 364, 366–71, 380; photographic equipment for, 383, 394; porters and cooks hired for, 393–4, 402, 407, 408–9; retreats in, 424–6, 434–5; return home of, 447–9; Sherpas’ death in avalanche in, xv, 3, 443–6, 450–3, 483, 504; speaking tours of participants in, 458–9; stores and supplies for, 393, 394, 408–9; summit attempt in (first: Mallory, Morshead, Norton, and Somervell), 413–28, 437, 438, 439, 533; summit attempt in (second: Finch and G. Bruce), 414, 417, 418–19, 428–35, 436–7, 438, 439, 445, 446, 463, 477, 533; summit attempt in (third: Mallory and Somervell), 435–6, 439–46, 450–3, 533; supplemental oxygen in (see oxygen, supplemental); team selected for, 152, 368–71, 372–3, 376–84, 386–8; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling in, 379, 380, 381–3, 387, 388–9
Everest expedition of 1924, 74, 128, 153, 454–554; base camp established for, 501, 510; Bruce named leader of, 461, 468–9, 470, 479; Bruce’s health problems and evacuation from, 488, 489–92, 493, 508; carefully crafted plans for oxygen abandoned in, 524, 539; clothing of, 492, 530–1, 539, 571; configuration of climbing parties in, 495–6, 524–5, 527, 528, 530, 532, 538; council of May 26 and, 522–5; currency carried by, 486; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s audience with, 498, 500, 509, 510–12, 513; evacuation of mountain in, 548, 550–1; Everest first viewed in, 496; final campaign in, 527–51; financial aspects of, 455–6, 467–8, 470; Finch denied place in, 462–4, 470, 474, 487; first failed campaign in, 501–10, 511, 512; gathering of team in Darjeeling before, 481–6; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486–501, 502; leadership of, devolved to Norton, 392, 491, 492, 493; logistics of supplying and maintaining highest camps in, 494–5, 523–4; Mallory’s and Irvine’s final climb and death in, xv–xvi, 3, 401, 539–61, 565–73; Mallory and Norton’s advance planning for summit attempts in, 493–6; Mallory named head of climbing party in, 493; Mallory’s indecisiveness about going on, 479–81; Mallory’s optimism about, on eve of ascent, 512–13; memorial for casualties of, 552–3; monsoon’s specter and, xvi, 492, 496, 513, 516, 521–2, 523, 525, 538–9, 541; Noel’s photographic documentation of, 467–8, 484, 503, 537, 541, 546, 552; organization of, 454–7, 461–4, 468–83; rescue of stranded porters in, 518–22; second failed campaign in, 513–22; serious injuries and deaths among support staff and porters in, 508–10, 533; siting of high camps in, 498; stores and supplies for, 482–3; supplemental oxygen in (see oxygen, supplemental); survivors’ return to India at end of, 557, 558; team selected for, 461–4, 468–81, 482, 485–6; Tibet’s sanctioning of, 457; translators for, 483, 493
Everest expeditions of 1930s, 471–2, 475, 564, 565–6
Exploration of the Caucasus (Freshfield), 69
Explorer Films, 468, 561, 564
Farrar, Percy, 4, 85, 86, 93, 95, 100, 101, 110, 126, 154, 159–60, 382, 437, 461; Finch’s removal from team and, 146, 147, 152–3; Mallory’s letter to, 277, 278; resignation of, from Everest Committee, 455, 462; selection of Everest team and, 130, 142, 143, 201; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 386
Fell and Rock Climbing Club (FRCC), 3–6, 38–9
Ferdinand I of Bulgaria, Czar, 377
Fight for Right, 93–4
Finch, Agnes Isobel “Bubbles” Johnston, 151, 152, 441, 463
Finch, Alicia Gladys “Betty” Fisher, 149–50, 152
Finch, Antoine, 150
Finch, Bryan Robert, 150
Finch, Charles, 142, 149
Finch, George Ingle, 142–4, 145–54, 403, 472, 560; academic achievements of, 142–3; Bruce’s disparagement of, 387, 388; camp sites selected by, 407, 408, 409; as child of Australian outback, 142, 143; confidentiality agreement of, 459–63; cooking and stove demonstration by, 409–10; criticized for cavalier treatment of porters, 444; denied place in 1924 team, 462–4, 470, 474, 487; diary entries of, 389–91, 400, 410, 413; on difficulties and hazards of Everest, 145; down coat invented by, 143, 386, 399, 492; dropped from 1921 team, 145–53, 154, 386; on Dzatrul Rinpoche’s meeting with Bruce, 404–5; evacuation party to Darjeeling joined by, 441, 446, 450; Everest first clearly viewed by, 402, 403; family background of, 142; financial situation of, 458–9, 461, 462; frostbite suffered by, 435, 436; height record set by, 433, 434, 437, 439, 448, 452; illness of, 412, 414, 418; Illustrated London News photos of, 387–8; on India and its people, 390; joint meeting of RGS and Alpine Club addressed by (1922), 457, 458; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 395–6, 398, 399–402, 407–8; June 28, 1923, letter of, 461, 462; launching of third summit assault and (June 1922), 438, 439, 441; lecture tours of, 458–9, 460–1, 462–3; Mallory’s opinion of, 388, 399–400; Mallory team’s first summit attempt and (May 1922), 414, 417, 418–19, 426, 427–8; medical review of, 145–8, 152, 370, 386; mountaineering skills of, 143, 370; new breed of climbers exemplified by, 456–7; nicknamed Buffalo Bill, 401; opinions of, about 1922 colleagues, 381, 390–1; photography as interest of, 399–400, 402, 426, 458, 459–60; return home of (1922), 450; romantic entanglements of, 148–52; selected for 1921 expedition, 141–2, 144; selected for 1922 expedition, 370, 386, 388; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–1, 456; on smoking’s benefits, 431–2; summit attempt of, 414, 417, 418–19, 428–35, 436–7, 438, 439, 445, 446, 448, 452, 463, 477, 533; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 386–7, 388–9, 391, 395–6, 398, 399, 410–11, 412, 414, 417, 418, 419, 426, 427–8, 429, 432, 433–4, 437, 442, 457, 462–3, 487, 524; wartime experiences of, 149–50
Finch, Gladys May, 150–2
Finch, Laura, 142, 149, 150
Finch, Max, 142, 143
Finch, Peter, 149, 150, 151, 152
Fisher, Alicia Gladys “Betty,” 149–50, 152
Fisher, W. W., 185
Flaherty, Robert, 384
flamethrowers, 87, 104, 191
Fletcher, Frank, 183, 187, 189, 199
Fletcher, Philip, 187
Florizel, HMS, 14–15
Foreign Office, 53, 123, 131–2, 156, 367–8, 395
Forrest, John, 192
Forster, E. M., 173, 186
Francis Ferdinand, Archduke, 185
Freshfield, Douglas, 68–70, 74–5, 85, 86, 93, 99–100, 168, 311, 437, 487–8, 560
Freud, Sigmund, 200
From a College Window (Benson), 169
From the Ruwenzori to the Congo (Wollaston), 138
From the Trenches (Young), 12–13
Frontier Scouts, 73, 482
frostbite, 571; expedition of 1922 and, 421, 422, 423, 428, 435, 436–7, 438, 440–1, 448, 450; expedition of 1924 and, 508, 509, 518, 519, 520, 536; oxygen deprivation and
susceptibility to, 438; in Wheeler’s legs (1921), 358, 359–60, 361
Fry, Roger, 174, 183
Fussell, Paul, 90, 107
Gabain, William, 187
Gahrwali, 79
Galinka, Tibet, 219
Gallipoli campaign (1915–16), 22, 37, 128, 132–5, 150, 188, 189, 232, 390
Gandhi, Mohandas K., 62, 294, 296, 389, 390, 470
Ganges, 65, 66, 103, 245, 364
Gangtok, Sikkim, 260, 340, 363, 491
Garhwal Himalaya, 81, 86
Garnett, David, 200
Garrett, Harry, 189
Gartok, Tibet, 67
Gasparri, Cardinal, 480
Gauri Sankar, 264, 304, 322
Gausta, Tibet, 220
Gelugpa, or Yellow Hat, sect, 47–8, 219, 247
Geographical Journal, 131, 140, 152, 454
Geological Survey of India, 126, 205
George V, King, 19, 156, 158, 454, 497, 556, 560
George VI, King, 229
German East Africa, campaign in, 135–6
German Spring Offensive (1918), 91
Geshe Lama, 219
Gibran, Kahlil, 103
Gibson, Harry, 168
Glamorganshire Territorial Association, 131
Glasgow Daily Record, 95
Gnatong, Sikkim, 119–20, 215–16
Gobi Desert, 54
Goldie, Sir George, 74
Gorang, 355, 356, 358, 361
Gosainthan, 242, 304
Gould, Basil, 112
Grace of Forgetting, The (Young), 6–7
Graham, Mrs., 204
Graham, Richard, 472–4, 493
Graham, W. W., 46
Grant, Duncan, 5–6, 171, 173, 174, 175, 176, 181, 182, 183, 186, 200; disguised as Abyssinian prince, 185
Graphic, 158
Graves, Nancy Nicholson, 195
Graves, Robert, 5–6, 90, 92–3, 172, 182, 183, 186, 199, 200; wartime experiences of, 186, 189, 192, 193, 197, 198; wedding of, 195
Great Arc, 44
Great Depression, 565
Great Gable, FRCC memorial at (1924), 3–6, 38–9
Great Game, 51, 52–3, 54, 57, 60
Great Trigonometrical Survey, 43–4, 46, 47
Green Chartreuse, 181
Grenfell, Sir Wilfred, 13
Grey, Edward, 94
Gurkhas, 56, 65, 73, 78, 208, 246, 295, 303, 376, 377, 378, 411, 447, 481; in attempts on Everest, 73, 74, 428; seconded to 1924 expedition, 481; 5th Gurkha Rifles and, 46, 54, 71, 72, 134–5; 6th Gurkha Rifles and, 132, 133–5, 428–9, 481
Gurney, Ivor, 107
Guru, Tibet, massacre at (1904), 58, 114, 214
Guru Rinpoche. See Padma Sambhava
Gyachung Kang, 249, 257, 264, 281
Gyalzen Kazi: in 1921 expedition, 204, 218, 226, 234, 260, 261, 275, 277, 304, 311, 324, 351, 363; in 1922 expedition, 440; in 1924 expedition, 393, 483
Gyangkar Nangpa, Tibet, 238–9, 400–1
Gyangkar Range, 235, 238, 239, 542
Gyantse, Tibet, 64, 101, 108, 112, 115, 121, 207, 208, 490; monks from, in promotion of Noel’s The Epic of Everest, 562, 563; siege at (1904), 59
Habibullah Khan, Emir, 375–6
Hahn, Dave, 570, 571, 572–3
Haig, Douglas, 15–16, 33, 195–6; daily routine of, 29; front and wounded never visited by, 29; horse and cavalry excessively valued by, 15–16, 457; machine gun rejected by, 15; Passchendaele campaign and, 96, 97, 195; Somme offensive planned by, 23–4, 25–6, 27, 29, 30, 36–7
Haldane, J. B. S., 385, 386
Halung, Tibet, 294, 308
Hamilton, Sir Ian, 133, 135
Hardy, Thomas, 94
Harrow, 71, 187, 296
Hasegawa, Ryoten, 566, 567
Hatia, Nepal, 82
Hayden, J., 68, 111
Hazard, John de Vars (Jack), 128, 211, 366, 474, 485, 557; background of, 474; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 496, 512, 524, 532; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–8, 530, 531, 537, 538, 539, 540, 542, 545–6, 547, 548, 549; first failed campaign and, 502–3, 505, 506, 508; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 498–9; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 545–6, 547, 548, 549, 550, 556, 560; second failed campaign and, 514, 517, 518, 519, 521; temperament of, 512; unhealed wounds of, 474, 517, 518; wartime experiences of, 474
Heart of Asia (Roerich), 247–8
Hedin, Sven, 61, 75
helmets, steel, 15
Helps, Francis, 483
Hemmleb, Jochen, 567, 570–1, 573
Herford, Siegfried, 5–6, 7, 186
hermits, 322, 511; Hingston’s journal entry on encounter with, 527; in Rongbuk environs, 258, 268, 269, 270–2, 279, 367, 406
Heron, Alexander, 159, 205, 206, 212, 233, 291, 339, 369, 403, 560; assault on Everest and, 344, 345–6; denied permission to join 1922 expedition, 395; end of 1921 expedition and, 363–4; geological surveys of, 266, 305, 306, 363, 366, 367; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 207–8, 212; journey of, from Kharta back to Tingri, 302–3; journey of, from Rongbuk to Kharta, 293–4, 297–8; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 221, 222, 223, 226, 233; in Kharta, 336; Mallory’s opinion of, 234, 344; reconnaissance of Everest approaches and, 266, 267–9, 279–80, 286, 322–3; survey missions of, 258–9, 260, 263, 264, 363, 395; in Tingri, 256, 258–9, 260, 263, 305, 306
Herschel House (Cambridge), 467
high-altitude exposure, physiology of, 69, 71, 125–6; acclimatization and, 69, 78, 126, 510; Everest climbing team’s first experiences of, 346; Finch’s medical review and, 147; Kellas’s research on, 76–8, 93, 140–1, 145; mental impact and, 144–5; ultraviolet light and, 145. See also oxygen deprivation
Hill, Leonard, 410
Hillary, Sir Edmund, 277, 282, 370, 565, 566, 568
Hilton, James, 248
Himalaya, 47, 130; calculating height of summits in, 45; flow of glaciers in, 282, 290; glaciers difficult to traverse in, 274; legends of strange inhabitants in, 353; mapping of, 44–6, 86, 206–8, 209–10, 264–6, 365–7 (see also Everest expedition of 1921—survey missions of; Survey of India); sacred sites in, 66–7, 112, 252, 253–4, 258, 259, 261–2, 264, 268, 269–73, 299–302, 304, 305, 321–2, 323. See also specific geographical features
Hinduism, 62, 66
Hindu Kush, 47, 51
Hingston, Richard, 482, 483, 485, 486, 513, 514, 519, 552; Bruce’s health problems and, 488, 489–92, 508; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; on Dzatrul Rinpoche, 511; final campaign of 1924 expedition and, 527, 528, 537, 540, 541, 542, 546, 547, 548, 550–1; injuries from failed campaign treated by, 508, 509, 519, 521–2; invited to join 1924 expedition, 481; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 488, 489–92; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546, 547, 548, 550–1, 560, 561; on prayer flags, 486–7; on Tibetan way of being, 527; wartime experiences of, 481
Hinks, Arthur, 108, 204, 380, 382, 414, 448, 466, 565; academic background of, 126–7; appointed to Mount Everest Committee, 126; communication between 1921 expedition and, 233, 304, 307, 337, 340, 360, 363, 365, 437; communication between 1922 expedition and, 381, 395, 408, 428, 437, 440; communication between 1924 expedition and, 491; confidentiality agreements and, 459–60, 461, 462; events leading to Finch’s dismissal and, 459–61, 462, 463; financing of Everest expeditions and, 156–9, 368, 394, 456, 459; generational rift among climbers and, 457; irascible and indomitable will of, 127; joint meeting of RGS and Alpine Club and (1922), 457, 458; lecture tours of expedition participants and, 368, 458–9, 460, 461, 462, 464, 561; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 552, 555–6, 558, 560; medical-review process and, 145, 146, 148; miserliness ascribed to, 157, 394, 449; 1922 expedition pressured for results by, 440, 451; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366–70, 371, 379, 380, 386, 388, 392; organization of 1924 expedition and, 455, 457, 473, 474, 480, 483; press interest in Everest and, 158–9, 453–4; selection of 1921 team members and, 127–32, 135, 136, 140, 141, 143, 144, 154–5; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–3;
supplemental oxygen and, 129, 385, 387, 428, 463, 474
Holdich, Sir Thomas Hungerford, 85–6, 93, 100
Holt (Surrey), 184, 466, 467
Holzel, Tom, 567
homoerotic culture, 175–7; Apostles (secret society) and, 174; at Cambridge, 169–71, 172, 179–80, 478; Mallory’s relationship with Strachey and, 175–6, 177, 180–1; at public schools, 172, 183, 199; Wilde’s imprisonment and, 172
Hooker, Joseph, 77
Hopaphema, 298–9, 302
horse, in warfare, 15–16, 457
Howard, Kenneth, 102
Howard-Bury, Charles Kenneth, 101–24, 136, 144, 153, 157, 159, 160, 165, 204, 205, 212, 233, 336, 343, 366, 458, 460, 565; appointed overall leader of first Everest expedition, 131–2, 135, 141; assault on Everest and (1921), 336–7, 340, 342, 345, 347, 348, 351, 352–5, 360–1; Bell’s meetings with, 112, 114–16, 118–22, 364; briefed on history of British-Tibetan relations, 118–22; Buddhist monasteries visited by, 219–20, 222, 245–8, 269–70, 272–3, 275, 404; childhood and education of, 102–3; climbing ability of, 344, 362; configuration of climbing party and, 242; early army career of, 103; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363, 364; Everest views and, 242; eye inflammation suffered by, 308; family background of, 102; in first days of expedition, 212, 214–16, 218; Hillary and Norgay’s reaching of summit and, 370; India mission of, 108, 109, 111–18, 122–3, 124, 131–2; Irish troubles and, 296–7, 344, 369, 470; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 207–8, 212, 214–16, 218; journey of, from Kharta back to Tingri, 302–3; journey of, from Rongbuk to Kharta, 293–4, 297–8; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218–29, 234–51; journey of, from Tingri to Kharta, 306–8; Kama Valley explored by, 309, 325, 326, 338–9; Kellas’s death and, 233, 234; Kharta base established by, 280, 282–3, 286, 291, 293, 298–9, 305, 309; on life and customs of Tibet, 248; Mallory’s opinion of, 216, 235, 296, 325, 338, 344; nationalist agitation in India as viewed by, 295–6; oblivious to spiritual potency of Tibet’s landscape, 301–2; organization of 1922 expedition and, 369–70; pack animals arranged by, 224, 237, 242, 293, 456; permission for approach to Everest sought by, 108, 109, 111–13, 123, 124; pilgrim’s encounter with, 250–1, 448; porters and cooks hired and managed by, 218, 221, 222–3, 285, 311, 324, 338, 393, 394; Raeburn’s return and, 341; reconnaissance of Everest area and, 257–9, 263–4, 266–9, 279–80, 282–3, 286, 293, 299, 302, 309–10, 311, 312, 319, 322–6 (see also specific sites); routes into Tibet planned by, 206–8; spiritual seeking of, 245–8, 250–1, 304; supply issues and, 214, 215, 218, 222, 225, 320; Times dispatches of, 248, 353, 364–5; in Tingri, 254–60, 263, 280, 303–5; travels of (1913), 103–4; unavailable for 1922 and 1924 expeditions, 369, 470; wartime experiences of, 101–2, 104–8, 296; on Wheeler’s contribution to expedition, 217; Wheeler’s map of East Rongbuk Glacier sent to, 329, 333, 334