Into The Silence
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Hoyland, Graham, 569
Hudson’s Bay Company, 157
Hunza, 40, 54, 71
Hurke Gurung, 481, 501
Hurley, Frank, 384
Huxley, Aldous, 174
Huxley, Julian, 174
Illustrated London News, 387–8
Imperial War Graves Commission, 234
India: British rule in, 41–6, 47, 49; civil unrest in, 294–6, 389, 390, 470; as empire of ideas rather than territorial boundaries, 43; exploration of, 46, 47; Howard-Bury’s mission to, 108, 109, 111–18, 131–2; Howard-Bury’s unsanctioned travels in, 103; mapping of (see Survey of India); Russian threat to, 51, 52–3, 54, 60; tensions along frontier of, 51–3; World War II and, 230
Indian Army, 25, 41, 51, 72, 131, 296, 377, 390, 481; fighting in North-West Frontier and, 375–6, 378; Wheeler’s Indian Corps command and, 230–2
Indian Civil Service, 41, 113–14, 116
Indian Mutiny (1857), 46
India Office (London), first Everest expedition and, 101, 110–11, 112–13, 114, 124, 130
Indus, 66, 67
Information Department, 94
Invalid Children’s Aid Association, 158
Iraq: Wheeler’s reconnaissance in, 232–3. See also Mesopotamia
Ireland, troubles in, 199–200, 294, 296–7, 344, 369, 454, 470
Irvine, Andrew Comyn (Sandy), 473, 476–9, 485, 486, 488; athletic ability of, 476, 502, 512; on audience with Dzatrul Rinpoche, 511–12; at base camp, 502; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 496, 512, 513, 524, 528, 530, 532, 538; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; Everest first seen by, 496; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–9, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 539–51; final climb and death of, xv–xvi, 3, 401, 539–58, 560, 565–73; first failed campaign and, 502–4, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 487, 489, 492, 496–7, 502; mechanical skills of, 476–7, 478, 487, 489, 502, 526; memorial services for, 560–1; mountaineering abilities of, 477, 478, 513; Odell’s fleeting glimpse of, during final ascent, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550–1, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; older men’s emotional attraction to, 478–9; oxygen duties of, 477–8, 487, 496–7, 502, 523, 532, 538, 539, 545, 549; personal effects of, 550, 552; response in England to death of, 555–6, 557–9; rope ladder made by, 526, 528; second failed campaign and, 514, 517, 518, 519, 521, 522; speculation about circumstances of death of, 556–7, 558, 565–73
Irvine, Hugh, 478
Irving, Graham, 155, 167–8
Isaacs (Macdonald’s head clerk), 216, 218–19
Isherwood, Christopher, 198
Jack, E. M., 126, 144
James, Henry, 173, 183, 191
Japan, 101; World War II and, 230, 448
Jelep La, 56, 114, 119, 207, 215, 216–17, 382, 394, 396, 486
Jesuits, 77
Johnson, W., 98
Johnston, Agnes Isobel “Bubbles,” 151, 152
Johnstone, G. H. (later Baron Derwent), 183
Jones, Humphrey and Muriel, 184
Joyce, Ernest, 128–9, 130
Kabru, 203
Kadir Cup, 378, 391, 393
Kailash, 50, 66–7, 103, 210
Kalimpong, 120, 204, 207, 212, 213–14, 394, 395, 482, 486, 487
Kama Changri, 347
Kama Chu, Kama Valley, 80, 82, 83, 239, 299, 302, 323, 326, 362, 363, 416, 417, 447; Howard-Bury’s exploration of, 309, 325, 326, 338–9; Kellas’s photographs of, 76; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 299, 310, 312–16, 318, 320, 325; spiritual significance of, 299–300
Kambu, Kambu La, 117, 219
Kamet, 86, 125, 128, 141, 144, 154, 211, 474
Kami, 503
Kampa Dzong, 68, 80, 100, 116, 341, 363, 364; Kellas’s burial in, xv, 228–9, 341, 398, 399; 1921 expedition’s route through, 206, 207, 208, 221, 224, 227–9, 234–6, 237, 238, 239, 256–7; 1922 expedition’s route through, 395, 398–9; 1924 expedition’s route through, 489, 491, 492, 493, 494; Younghusband’s diplomatic mission to, 53, 55–6, 57, 63, 64, 80, 206
Kanchenjhau, 76, 226, 228
Kangchenjunga, 45, 63, 68, 69, 110–11, 203, 324, 347, 377, 542
Kangchen La, 322
Kangdoshung Glacier, 313, 325, 326
Kangshung Face. See Everest—Kangshung Face of
Kangshung Glacier, 313, 314, 324
Kangyur, 219, 273
Karakoram, 54, 70, 71, 73, 78, 103, 125, 391, 428
Karpo La, 316, 317, 362
Kartse, 315, 316, 317, 318, 324, 327
Kashag (Council of Four of Tibet), 48, 59
Kashmir, 47, 63, 103, 377
Kawaguchi, Ekai, 52
Kazbek, 69
Keedick, Lee, 464, 465
Kellas, Alexander, 75, 76–80, 81, 85, 86, 100, 128, 131, 140–1, 146, 154, 165, 211, 310, 370, 474; background of, 76; death and burial of, xv, 228–9, 233, 235, 236, 336, 341, 366, 370, 398, 399, 456, 470, 490, 552; eastern assault on Everest planned by, 83–4, 382; effects of high altitude studied by, 76–8, 93, 145; journeying across Tibet, 221–8; Mallory’s opinion of, 205, 234; oxygen apparatuses tested by, 140–1, 205, 384, 386; route taken into Tibet by, 207–8; selected for 1921 expedition, 140, 141; Sherpas and, 78–9, 80, 83, 140
Kelly, R. E., 231
Kemble, Harry, 187
Keynes, Geoffrey, 5–6, 17, 19, 173, 174, 176, 186, 196, 200, 479, 556
Keynes, John Maynard, 5–6, 8, 135, 171, 173, 174, 175, 176, 181, 186, 198, 200, 380
Keynes, Margaret Elizabeth Darwin, 200
Kham, 122, 209
Khan, Munir, 396
Kharta, 80, 83, 239, 259, 272, 273, 325; as base for second phase of reconnaissance, 280, 283, 286, 291, 292, 293, 298–9, 305, 306, 308–11, 320, 323, 324, 326, 328, 333; encampment site selected in, 298–9; end of 1921 expedition in, 362–3, 364, 369; Howard-Bury and Heron’s first journey to, 293–4, 297–8; Howard-Bury’s return to, 306–8; launching assault on Everest from, 336–8, 339–40, 341–2, 351; in 1922 expedition’s return home, 441, 446, 447; Raeburn’s arrival at, 340–1
Kharta Changri, 328, 332
Kharta Chu, Kharta Valley, 80, 83, 298, 299, 302, 309, 323, 365; launching assault on Everest through, 334, 336–7, 341–2, 359, 363; Mallory and Bullock’s reconnaissance of, 310, 311–12, 315, 317, 318–19, 326, 327–8; Wheeler and Morshead’s mapping of approaches to Lhakpa La through, 341–2
Kharta Glacier, 327–9, 332, 334–6; climbing party’s crossing of, 347–51
Kharta Shika, 298
Khe, Tibet, 225–6
Khenbalung (Hidden Valley of Artemesia), 299–301, 312
Khumbu, 272
Khumbu Icefall, 290, 292, 565
Khumbu Valley, 260
Khyber Pass, 72
Kiggell, Sir Launcelot, 96–7
Kim (Kipling), 49
Kinematograph Weekly, 562
Kinthup, Pundit, 50, 63, 209, 212
Kipling, John, 89, 183
Kipling, Rudyard, 49, 72, 89, 94, 295
Kitar, 350
Kitchener, Henry, Lord, 15, 24–5, 31, 166, 373
Krishnamurti, 103
K2, 70
Kumaonoi, 79
Kura La, 65
Kurz, Marcel, 130
Kyetrak (hamlet), Tibet, 264, 267, 269, 306, 323
Kyetrak Chu, 306
Kyetrak Glacier, 257, 259, 260, 264, 267–8, 269, 281, 305
Kyishong, Tibet, 243, 496
Labrador, 13–14
Lachen, Sikkim, 234, 260, 364, 441, 491
Ladakh, 47, 63
Laden La, 563
Lagay, 355, 356, 358
Lake District, 3–5, 381, 471, 472, 475, 534
Lamna La, 258, 261, 269, 306
Lamsdorf, Count Vladimir, 53
Landon, Perceval, 59, 60, 247
Landor, Henry Savage, 58, 247
Langbu La, 82
Langkor, Tibet, 304, 320
Langma La, 80, 83, 310, 312, 313, 318, 323, 324–5
Lansdowne, Lord, 101, 102
Lapche, 258, 259, 304, 321–2, 324
Larkins, F. E., 145–7, 148, 152, 370, 468–9, 488
Lawrence, D. H., 183
Lawrence, T. E., 92
League of Nations Union, 199
Lechner, Herr, 130
Leighton, Roland, 89
Leiter, Mary (later Mrs. George Curzon), 41
Lepchas, 79, 203, 404
Letitia, 37
Lhakpa (porter), 445, 552
Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 329, 332, 336, 337, 339, 359, 361, 416; climbing party’s advance to (1921), 342, 348, 349, 350–1, 352–5; descent to East Rongbuk from, 351, 353, 356; mapping of approaches to, 341–2, 411
Lhakpa Tsering, 514–15, 516
Lhasa, Tibet, 47, 48, 49, 53, 101, 121, 207, 248, 465; Bell’s mission to, 122–4; Chinese conquest of (1910), 119–20; response to Noel’s The Epic of Everest in, 562–4; Younghusband Mission to (invasion of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247
Lhatse, Tibet, 64
Lho La, 277, 278, 289, 292
Lhotse, 80, 249, 257, 281, 290, 314, 324
Liberal government, 74, 118
Ling, William, 153
Lingga, Tibet, 236
Lingkhor Rinpoche, 245–6
Lingtren, 257, 288, 289
Lithgow, J., 190
Llakpa Chédé, 532, 533
Llanberis Pass, 5–6
Lloyd George, David, 94–5, 196
Lloyd George, Gwilym, 196
Lobsang Sherpa, 529, 530
Lobsang Tashi, 532, 533
Lohit, 209
Longland, Jack, 564
Longstaff, Dora, 450, 452
Longstaff, Tom, 84, 86, 94, 153, 168, 281, 371, 389, 448, 458, 462, 470, 477, 496, 522, 558, 560; climbers deemed unfit for third summit attempt by, 438–9, 440, 451; Everest first clearly viewed by, 403; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first Everest proposals and, 74, 75; health problems of, 379, 381, 399, 404, 411, 412–13, 414, 418, 438, 439, 448, 456, 458; Hinks’s miserliness and, 157; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394, 396, 398–9, 402, 404, 407–8; as medical officer, 378–9, 381, 399, 408, 413, 438–9, 440, 452; medical review passed by, 413; Morshead and Strutt evacuated to Darjeeling by, 440–1, 450, 451; personality and demeanor of, 217, 379; return home of (1922), 446, 450–1, 452; selection of 1921 team and, 128, 130; selection of 1922 team and, 371, 378, 413; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–2, 456; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 463; Wheeler’s Canadian climbs and, 217
Long White Mountain, 54
Loos, Battle of (1915), 23, 88–9, 98, 104, 189, 211, 232
Lopokova, Lydia, Baroness Keynes, 200
Lost Horizon (Hilton), 248
Ludendorff, Erich, 97
Lumeh, Tibet, 302
Lunn, Sir Arnold, 148, 466
Lytton, Lady, 486
Lytton, Lord, 450
Macdonald, David, 115, 118, 119, 120, 123, 214, 216, 311
MacDonald, James, 57
Macdonald, John, 440, 485–6, 489, 491, 492, 493, 562
Machig Labdrön, 270
machine guns: in British skirmishes against Tibetans, 58, 59; Haig’s rejection of, 15, 457; Tibet’s desire for, 122; in World War I, 15, 16, 28, 30, 31, 36, 88
Mahsud, 376, 378
Makalu, 64, 235, 239, 242, 249, 257, 308, 312, 313, 314, 315, 323, 324, 325, 326, 332, 347, 360, 403, 416, 417; Howard-Bury’s climb to summit ridge between Everest and, 362
Making of a Mountaineer, The (Finch), 151–2
Mallory, Anne Beridge Jebb (mother), 165–6, 177, 513
Mallory, Avie (sister), 166, 368
Mallory, Beridge (daughter), 162, 194, 363, 467, 555
Mallory, Clare (daughter), 162, 189, 191, 193, 194, 363, 464, 467, 525, 555
Mallory, George Leigh, 5–6, 92, 94, 152–4, 159, 160, 162–204, 212, 220, 343, 379, 403, 408, 409–10, 456, 470, 565; abdominal pain (possible appendicitis) of, 490, 491, 492; absentmindedness of, 166, 178, 325, 397, 469, 542–3, 566; advance planning for 1924 summit attempts and, 493–6, 501–2; alpine ascents of, 8–9, 168–9, 177–8, 183–4; ankle injury of, 180, 193–4; athletic ability of, 168, 183, 503, 515, 566; “Because it’s there” remark of, 465–6; British ideal represented by, 141–2; as Cambridge lecturer, 466–7, 479–80, 485; as Cambridge student, 168, 169–71, 172–3, 180, 467; as candidate for 1924 expedition, 462, 471; clothing of, 539, 571; configuration of climbing parties and (1924), 495–6, 512–13, 525, 527, 528, 530, 532, 538; correspondence of, 343–4 (see also Mallory, Ruth Turner; Young, Geoffrey); council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1921), 202–6, 389; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1922), 389; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 485–6; discovery of corpse of, 567–70, 571; end of 1921 expedition and, 362–3, 364, 368–9; end of 1922 expedition and, 447, 449; equipment of 1921 expedition critiqued by, 371; fame of, 384, 453; family background of, 165–6; fateful miscalculation of, 282, 292, 329; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–30, 531–2, 536, 537–8, 539–51; final climb and death of (1924), xv–xvi, 3, 401, 539–61, 565–73; financial situation of, 181, 184, 449, 458–9, 466–7; Finch’s assessment of, 390; Finch’s dismissal by Everest Committee and (1923), 463–4; Finch’s removal from 1921 team and, 152–3, 154; in first days of 1921 expedition, 212–16, 217, 218; first failed campaign and (1924), 502–5, 506–7, 508, 509, 510; first views of Everest and, 235–6, 238–44, 249–50; foot injury of, 194–5; frostbite suffered by, 423, 428, 438; on general shape of Everest, 283; Graham’s dismissal and, 473; height record set by (1922), 424, 428, 434, 438, 439; homoerotic culture and, 169–71, 172, 175–7, 179–81, 183, 478; indecisive about joining 1924 expedition, 479–81; Irish troubles and, 199–200; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; joint meeting of RGS and Alpine Club addressed by (1922), 457, 458; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet (1921), 206, 207–8, 212–16, 217, 218; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 394–5, 396, 397, 398–402, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 490, 491, 492, 494, 496, 497; journey of, from Rongbuk to Kharta (1921), 306–8; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri (1921), 218, 220–9, 235–6, 238, 239–40, 241, 242–3, 244, 247, 248–50, 256; Kellas’s illness and death and, 224, 228, 229, 233; in Kharta (1921), 308–9, 310, 336–8; last public pronouncement of, 525; leadership shifted to (1921), 337, 339, 343–4; lecture tours of, 368, 380, 458–9, 460, 464–7; literary tastes of, 191, 416, 492, 507, 560; Longstaff’s illness and, 413; medical review passed by, 145–6; memorial services for, 560–1; nicknamed Peter Pan, 402; Noel’s photographic documentation of, 384, 449; obituaries of, 168, 558–9; obsessed with Everest, 361, 441, 449, 479, 558–9; Odell’s fleeting glimpse of, during final ascent, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550–1, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; opinions of, about 1921 colleagues, 205–6, 216, 229, 234–5, 245, 278, 296, 307, 310, 325, 338, 341, 344, 346; opinions of, about 1922 colleagues, 380, 382, 388, 392, 399–400, 417; opinions of, about 1924 colleagues, 485–6, 492–3, 496, 501–2, 514, 532; optimistic on eve of 1924 ascent, 512–13; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366, 368–71, 380, 386, 391; personal effects of, 550, 552; photographic plates ruined by, 291–2, 306, 307; photographs taken by, 324, 325, 402; physical beauty of, 167–8, 175, 176, 179; porters trained for mountaineering by (1921), 238, 275, 278–9, 280; public school and university years of, 166–80; purported attraction of, to Irvine, 478; reconnaissance of Everest approaches and, 256, 259, 260–3, 269, 273–84, 285, 286–92, 293, 305–6, 310–19, 320, 323–30, 332, 333–6, 357, 402–3 (see also specific sites); response in England to death of, 555–6, 557–9; route up North Col found by (1922), 414–15; ruling on fitness of, for third summit assault (1922), 438, 439, 440; as schoolmaster at Charterhouse, 181–3, 186–9, 199, 200–1, 449, 459, 466; second failed campaign and (1924), 513, 514–16, 518–21, 522; selected for 1921 expedition, 141–2, 144, 160, 201; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443, 444–5, 446, 451–3, 504; Smythe inspired by legacy of,
471–2; speculation about circumstances of death of, 556–7, 558, 565–73; summit attempt of (1921), 318–19, 334, 335, 336–7, 339–40, 342, 343–60, 361–2, 369; summit attempt of (May 1922), 413–16, 417–28, 433, 437, 438, 439; summit attempt of ( June 1922), 438, 439, 440–6, 451–3, 533; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 387, 388–9, 439, 442, 494–6, 497, 524, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 540, 542, 545, 571; Surrey home of (the Holt), 184, 466, 467; temperament of, 166, 178–9, 401; tensions between Bullock and, 279, 338; on Tibet and its people, 248; Times article by, 453, 454; unorthodox climbing methods of, 168, 177–8; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1921), 162–5, 202–3; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1922), 380, 382, 389; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1924), 485; wartime experiences of, 185–97, 478–9; wedding and honeymoon of, 184–5; at Winchester, 166, 167–8, 170, 172, 204
Mallory, Rev. Herbert Leigh (father), 165, 166, 173, 174–5, 480
Mallory, John (son), 162, 199, 201, 363, 467, 555
Mallory, Mary (sister), 166, 479, 492, 496, 501–2, 539
Mallory, Ruth Turner (wife), 162, 186, 193, 196, 201, 346, 368, 371, 413, 458, 463, 464, 466, 467, 479, 480, 496, 507, 539; childbearing of, 189, 194, 199; death of, 560; husband’s death and, 555, 556, 559–60; husband’s letters to, 162, 163, 164–5, 190, 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 203, 204, 205, 212, 216, 218, 220, 223, 229, 233, 234, 238, 239, 240, 249, 275, 281, 283–4, 291, 296, 307, 308, 310, 311, 314–15, 324, 325, 326–7, 328, 335, 336, 338, 339, 343, 346, 348–9, 362, 363, 364, 380, 388, 392, 396, 397, 413, 420, 439, 441, 446, 453, 464, 485, 488, 492–3, 494, 496, 497, 506, 507, 512–13, 516, 519, 525–6, 532; wedding and honeymoon of, 184–5