by Wade Davis
Mallory, Trafford (brother), 166, 194, 539; death of, 560; in World War I, 186, 189, 196
Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, 567–73
Manbahadur, 508, 509, 519, 553
Manchester Guardian, 4, 95
Manchu Empire, 48, 120
Manchuria, 54
Mani Rimdu, 446–7
Manners, Lady Diana, 200
maps: curvature of globe and, 43–4; uncharted regions and, 47. See also Survey of India
Marathas, 72
Markham, Sir Clement, 129
marriage, in Edwardian era, 171
Marsh, Edward, 172, 173, 182, 183, 187, 188, 189, 193, 195, 196
Masefield, John, 93, 94, 183
Mason, Lionel, 128
Matterhorn, 3, 144
McGovern, William Montgomery, 465
McKenna, Neil, 172
McMahon Line, 121
Meade, C. F., 86, 125, 126, 144, 153
Merton College Arctic Expedition, 477
Mesopotamia, 294, 481; Wheeler’s Indian Corps command in, 232–3
Metohkangmi (yeti), 353
Milarepa, 66–7, 112, 258, 264, 272, 304, 321
Mingma, 547–8, 550
Minto, Lord, 74, 120
Miyolangsangma, 499
Moltke, Helmut von, 10
Mongolia, 118
Mongols, 47, 48, 52, 104
Monlam Chenmo (Great Prayer Festival), 124
Mons, retreat from (1914), 97–8, 379
monsoon, 111, 341, 564; arrival of, during 1921 reconnaissance, 207, 212, 213, 214, 225, 235–6, 243, 256, 258, 283, 284–6, 287, 298, 303, 305, 307, 333; expected earlier than usual in 1924, 492, 496, 513; fierce winds at end of, 361; Kharta’s location in shadow of, 309; later than usual in 1924, 538–9; 1921 expedition’s summit attempts and, 305, 336, 346, 361; 1922 expedition’s summit attempts and, 403, 408, 416, 417, 418, 440, 441, 445–6, 451, 513; specter of, over 1924 expedition, xv, 492, 496, 513, 516, 521–2, 523, 525, 538–9, 541; timing of Everest expeditions and, 366, 393
Montagu, Edwin, 86, 101, 110
Mont Blanc, 148, 168, 178, 250, 273, 346, 408, 475
Moore, G. E., 174
Morgan Library (New York), 466
Morley, John, 74
Morris, John, 372–7, 379, 452, 458, 488; advanced camps and, 411, 412, 413, 418, 426, 442, 445–6; in Darjeeling at start of expedition, 376–7, 387–8, 389; on Dzatrul Rinpoche, 406; Finch’s assessment of, 390; in Indian Army, 375–6; invited to join 1922 expedition, 372–3; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394, 396, 397–9, 406–8; nicknamed Babu Chatterjee, 401–2; porters managed by, 411, 447; postwar existence of, 372, 404; return journey of, to Darjeeling, 447; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 444–5, 446; unavailable for 1924 expedition, 470, 482, 483; wartime experiences of, 372, 373–5, 396, 448; in years after expedition, 404, 448, 457–8, 564
Morshead, Evie, 204, 211, 212, 364, 389, 394, 400, 450
Morshead, Henry, 50, 75, 84, 159, 205, 206–12, 233, 304, 336, 394, 398, 400, 458, 474; advanced camps and (1922), 411, 412, 414, 416; approaches to Lhakpa La mapped by, 341–2; Bell’s objections to survey of, 366–7, 389; climbing ability of, 154, 211, 235, 242; country west of Everest explored by, 320–3; in Darjeeling before expeditions, 140, 159, 204, 212, 389; death of, 50, 208; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363–4; evacuated to Darjeeling (1922), 440–1, 450, 451, 457; Finch’s assessment of, 390; frostbite suffered by, 422, 428, 438, 440–1, 448, 450, 451, 457; indifferent to discomfort and risk, 210–11; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet (1921), 206–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 394–5, 396–7; Longstaff’s illness and, 413; main party of 1921 expedition joined by, 227–8; Mallory and Bullock’s reconnaissance of Rongbuk side joined by, 328, 329, 332, 334–6; Mallory’s opinion of, 154–5, 206, 235, 278, 417; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366, 369, 389; pacification of North-East Frontier and, 208–9; at Shegar, 245; summit attempt and (1921), 242, 342, 344–5, 346, 347, 348, 349–51, 352–5, 360; summit attempt and (1922), 414, 417–23, 424–8, 438; survey missions of, 206–7, 217, 236, 242, 258, 260, 266, 303, 310, 320–3, 341–2, 360, 363, 365, 366–7, 369, 389, 395; Tibetan spoken by, 204; in Tingri, 256, 258, 260, 286, 303; Tsangpo Gorge explored by, 50, 208, 209–10, 257, 258; unavailable for 1924 expedition, 470, 483; upper Phung Chu mapped by, 258, 286, 363; wartime experiences of, 211–12; on Wheeler’s discovery of key to Everest, 339
Moti, 483
Mountaineering Art (Raeburn), 130, 346
mountain sickness, 77, 384
Mountains of Snowdonia, The (Young), 5–6
Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance (Mallory), 380
Mount Everest Committee. See Everest Committee
Mount Everest Fund, 156
Mumm, A. L., 73–4, 86
Mummery, Albert, 85
Murchison, Sir Roderick, 45–6
Muslims, 72
Nagas, 208
Namgya, 520–1
Nanda Devi, 475
Nangpa La, 249, 257, 258, 260, 263–4, 266, 267, 269, 271, 272, 305; Wheeler’s high camp at, 267, 269, 280, 284–6
Nanook of the North, 384
Napoleonic Wars, 26, 68, 71, 72
Naro Bhun Chon, 66–7
Nash, Paul, 9
National Geographic Society, 158
National Trust, 4
Nation and Athenaeum, 558–9
Natural History Museum, 157
Nazurga, Tibet, 261
Nechung Oracle, 59
Nema Tundrup, 538, 540, 541, 542
Nepal, 47, 49, 63, 65, 67, 82, 239, 246, 247, 249, 255, 257, 267, 271, 272, 298, 299, 303, 304, 314, 320–1, 338, 404; access to Everest through, 68, 70, 74, 75, 100, 108, 109, 278, 293, 565; ethnic Tibetans of (see Sherpas); exploration of borderlands between Tibet and, 268–9; soldiers of (see Gurkhas); Wheeler’s crossing into, 260
Nepal, maharaja of, 68, 70, 74, 75, 108; Hinks’s gift to son of, 158
Nesthorn, 8–9, 177–8
neurasthenia (shell shock), 13, 98, 99
New Army, 25, 31
Newfoundland, Wakefield’s service in, 13–14
Newfoundland Regiment, 14–15, 16–17, 22–3; in Somme offensive, 28, 33–6, 381
New Guinea, 384; British expeditions in, 138–40, 304
New York Times, 465
Nezogu, 306
Ngawang Tenzin Norbu. See Dzatrul Rinpoche
Nicholas II, Czar, 53
Nicolson, James, 45
Nima Tundrup, 547–8, 550
Nim Dorji, 350
1914 and Other Poems (Brooke), 188
Nineteenth Century, 69
Noel, John, xv, 75, 80–4, 85, 382–4, 385, 400, 446, 447, 458, 485, 486, 488, 524, 526, 561–4; on audience with Dzatrul Rinpoche (1924), 511; background of, 80–1; as candidate for 1922 expedition, 127–8, 370, 371; commemorative postcards and, 483–4; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 483–4; entrepreneurial schemes of, 382, 483–4; Everest approach attempted by (1913), 76, 80–3, 100, 123, 382; Everest Committee’s financial arrangement with, 467–8, 470; Everest first clearly viewed by, 403; final campaign of 1924 expedition and, 527–8, 530, 537, 540, 541–2, 546–7, 548, 549, 550; Finch and Bruce’s summit attempt and, 428–9, 431, 436, 437; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first Everest film by (Climbing Mount Everest), 384, 449, 455, 467, 471, 561; first failed campaign and (1924), 506, 508, 509, 510; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394–5, 398–9, 402, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 497; Kellas’s scheme to reach Everest and, 83–4, 382; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546–7, 548, 549, 550, 556, 561; Mallory’s last note for, 541–2; mural at Rongbuk Monastery and, 499; organization of 1921 expedition and, 127, 145, 153; photographic documentation of 1922 expedition by, 382, 383–4, 394, 402, 403–4, 408, 418, 426, 428, 429, 435, 442–3; photographic documentation of 1924 expedition by, 467–8, 503, 537, 541, 546, 552; photographic laboratories set up by, 408, 410, 484; as raconteur, 382–3; RGS addres
sed by (1919), 86–7, 93, 95–6, 99–100, 382; second Everest film by (The Epic of Everest), 384, 557, 561–4; second failed campaign and, 514, 521; technical innovations of, 484; third summit attempt and (1922), 440, 441, 442–3; Tibetan rituals and customs documented by, 402, 455; Tibetans disparaged by, 404; wartime experiences of, 97–9, 383
Noel, Sybille, 483, 499, 562
Norbu (avalanche victim), 445, 552
Norbu Yishé, 532, 533
Northcliffe, Lord, 95
North Col (Chang La), 365, 386, 431, 440; Bullock’s note of August 13, 1921, and, 328–9; camps established on (1921), 337, 349, 351; camps established on (1922), 403, 408–9, 411, 413–16, 435, 436; camps established on (1924), 494–5, 501–8, 513–22, 523–4; changes in, between 1922 and 1924 expeditions, 514, 515; climbing team’s ascent of (1921), 337, 349, 351, 352, 353, 356–9, 360, 361, 369; climbing teams’ ascents of (1922), 414–15, 418, 419–21, 428–9, 435, 444, 451, 514; climbing teams’ retreats down (1922), 425–6, 435, 436; expedited route to (1922), 402–3; focus of 1922 expedition and, 368, 402–3; Irvine’s rope ladder for ice chimney on, 526, 528; Lhakpa La (Windy Gap) as route to, 329, 336; Mallory and Bullock’s miscalculation with regard to, 282, 292, 329; Mallory and Bullock’s search for route to, 277, 282, 291, 292, 299, 306, 311, 314–15, 316–19, 325, 327, 328–9, 334–6; Mallory’s first completely clear view of, 351; Mallory’s initial scouting of, 263, 274; Mallory’s photographic mishap and, 306; Mallory’s response to Wheeler’s map of, 329–30, 333–4, 336, 339; 1924 expedition’s first failed campaign on, 501–10, 511, 512; 1924 expedition’s last ascent of, 527–9; 1924 expedition’s second failed campaign on, 513–22; rescue of stranded porters on (1924), 518–22; route established up (1922), 414–15, 514, 515; route established up (1924), 514–16; route to Everest from, xv–xvi; Sherpas’ death in avalanche on (1922), xv, 3, 443–6, 450–3, 483, 504; Wheeler’s discovery of most efficient route to, 329–34, 339
North-East Frontier, 208–9
North Peak. See Changtse
North Pole, 86
North-West Frontier, 24, 47, 51, 72, 211, 294, 375, 378, 428–9, 457–8, 481–2
Norton, Edward (Teddy), 371, 391–3, 403, 447, 452, 453, 458, 481, 482, 486, 512, 558; advanced camps and (1922), 408, 411, 412, 416; advance planning for 1924 summit attempts and, 493–6; assessment of 1922 performance of, 469–70; background of, 391; biographical sketch of, 393; birding of, 399, 400; clothing of, 530–1; configuration of climbing parties and, 495–6, 513, 524–5, 527, 528, 538; council of May 26, 1924, and, 522–5; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s audience and, 498, 509, 510–12; establishment of advanced camps and, 501, 505–7; evacuated to Kharta, 441, 446; evacuation of mountain and, 550, 552; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, xv–xvi, 527–8, 529, 530–7, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543, 546–7, 548, 549, 551, 557; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first failed campaign and (1924), 505–8, 509, 510; frostbite suffered by, 422, 438, 441; height record of (1924), 564; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 395, 396, 398–9, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 491, 496, 498, 501; leadership of 1924 expedition devolved to, 392, 491, 492, 493, 496; leave secured for, to participate in 1922 expedition, 392–3; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546–7, 548, 549, 550, 552, 553, 555, 556, 557, 560, 566; Mallory’s opinion of, 392, 485, 496, 514; named second-in-command and climbing leader of 1924 expedition, 461, 469–70; personality and demeanor of, 392, 470; rescue of stranded porters and (1924), 518–22; second failed campaign and (1924), 513, 514–16, 517, 518–21, 522; on Sherpa character, 526–7; snow-blinded in final ascent, xvi, 534, 535–6, 538, 539, 540; specimens collected by, 396, 448; summit attempt of (1922), 414, 417–28, 437, 438, 533; summit attempt of (1924), xv–xvi, 530–7, 543, 557; supplemental oxygen and, 494–6, 524, 537; tall and thin physique of, 470; Times dispatches of, 506, 546; wartime experiences of, 391–2, 478–9, 498, 506; in years after Everest expeditions, 448, 458
Norton, Jake, 569, 570
Noyce, Wilfrid, 565
Nup La, 289, 290
Nuptse, 281
Nyenyam, Tibet, 255, 258, 304, 320–1
Nyima Tendu, 275, 317–18, 323, 325, 327, 335
O’Brien, Conor, 199
Observer, 33, 125, 568
O’Connor, Frederick, 55, 113
Odell, Eric, 475
Odell, Gwladys Mona, 476
Odell, Noel, 153, 371, 462, 474–9, 481, 485, 511, 524, 526, 564; background of, 475; Bruce’s health problems and, 489; climbing ability of, 475; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 496, 512, 524, 532; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 482, 483; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–9, 530, 531, 536, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543–6, 547–51; first failed campaign and, 502–3, 505, 506, 507, 508; glimpse of Mallory and Irvine’s ascent reported by, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550, 551, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; Irvine brought to expedition by, 476–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 488, 492, 495; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 545–6, 547–52, 556–7, 558, 560–1, 566, 568; Mallory’s last note for, 541, 542; nicknamed Noah, 475; oxygen duties assigned to, 474, 477; personality and demeanor of, 475, 476; second failed campaign and, 514–16, 517–18, 519, 521, 522; wartime experiences of, 475–6, 478–9; in years after Everest expedition, 475
Officer Training Corps, 187
oil fields, 232
On High Hills (Young), 9
On Mountain Craft (Young), 5
Orde-Lees, Theodore, 129–30
Owen, Harold, 197
Owen, Wilfred, 188, 195, 197
Oxford, 41, 113, 147, 172, 187, 296, 472, 476, 477, 489, 502; research on supplemental oxygen at, 384, 385, 386
oxygen, supplemental, 384–7, 457, 463, 571; abandonment of carefully crafted plans for (1924), 524, 539; climbing team’s training with (1922), 387, 388, 395, 399; development of apparatuses for, 385–7; ethical and aesthetic critiques of, 384, 457; Finch’s briefing of Everest Committee and, 462–3; Finch’s high-altitude test of, 427–8; Finch’s record climb and, 339, 433–4, 437, 442, 524; Irvine’s redesign of equipment for, 478, 487, 496–7; Kellas’s research on, 140–1, 205, 384, 385; mask issue and, 385, 387; in 1922 expedition, 382, 384–7, 388–9, 391, 395–6, 398, 399, 409, 410–11, 412, 414, 416, 417, 418, 419, 426, 427–8, 429, 432, 433–4, 437, 439, 442, 457, 524; in 1924 expedition, 457, 468, 474, 477–8, 487–8, 494–7, 502, 503, 504, 506, 523, 524, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 545, 549; Noel’s schemes and, 382; Orde-Lees’s scheme and, 129; pilots’ use of, 126, 147, 384–5; provided to Noel (1924), 468; rescue of May 1922 climbing team and, 426, 427–8; survivability of cessation of, 434
oxygen deprivation, 77–8, 86, 384; acclimatization and, 69, 78, 126, 510; Hingston’s research on, 483; Kellas’s research on, 77–8, 93, 140; suffocating tent enclosures and, 354, 410, 420–1; susceptibility to frostbite and, 438
Padma Sambhava (Guru Rinpoche), 246, 247, 252–4, 259, 262, 270, 272, 299, 300, 301, 304, 404, 499
Paget, Major, 376
Pamir Mountains, 51, 54
Panchen Lama, 48, 59, 64, 108
Pang La, 249–50, 402, 403, 451, 496, 498
Parvati, 66
Pasang Namgyn, 445, 552
Pashok, India, 212–13, 364
Passchendaele offensive (1917), 96–7, 106, 107, 194–5, 211
Pathans, 72, 73
Pathé News, 484
Pauhunri, 76, 226, 228
Paul, Karma, 394, 404, 483, 496, 509, 510
Pearls and Savages, 384
Pearson, A. V., 31
Pema, 445, 552
Pen y Pass, 6, 8, 144, 179, 189, 199, 526
Pereira, Arthur, 484
Persia and the Persian Question (Curzon), 40
Pethang Ringmo, 313–14, 319, 324
Pethangtse, 257, 313, 324
Phari, Tibet, 52, 68, 119, 160, 239, 428, 552, 555; descriptions of, 117, 221, 488; Howard-Bury’s 1920 travels to, 116–18; 1921 expedition’s
route through, 207, 208, 214, 216, 220, 221–4, 364; 1922 expedition’s route through, 394, 396, 397–8, 447; 1924 expedition’s route through, 488–9, 490, 494
Pharuk, 80
Philadelphia Public Ledger, 158
photography: in survey methodology, 264, 265–6. See also Noel, John
Phung Chu, 224, 239, 240–1, 242, 243, 244, 245, 249, 250, 252, 257, 260, 298, 302, 305, 341; Morshead’s mapping of, 258, 286, 363
Phuse La, 258, 264, 268, 269, 322–3
pig sticking, 378, 393
Pioneer Peak, 70
Pius XI, Pope, 480
poison gas, 12–13, 28, 88, 99, 392
poles, quest for, 69, 75, 78, 79–80, 86, 87, 479, 487, 488
Politz, Andy, 570, 571
Pollard, Thom, 570
Ponting, Herbert, 383
Poo, 263, 483, 518
Popti La, 338
Powys Sketchley, Mrs., 150
prayer flags, 486–7
prayer wheels, 219, 497
Primus stoves, at high altitude, 141, 147
Princess Royal, 14–15
Principia Ethica (Moore), 174
Prohibition, 465
prosthetic limbs, 3–4
public schools: boys’ relationships at, 172; culture of, 166–8, 171–2, 181–3, 199; empire’s needs served by, 166–7; graduates of, lost to war, 186–7; Mallory’s teaching career in, 181–3, 186–9, 199, 200–1
Public Schools Club (London), 187
Pulme, Tibet, 303
Pumori, 257, 287, 288
Punagang Monastery, 219
Punch, 100
Punjabis, 73, 376
Pye, David, 181, 199, 228, 369, 441, 465–6, 525, 526
Pygmies and Papuans (Wollaston), 140
Quinton, W. A., 99
Rabkar Glacier, 80, 83