Into The Silence

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Into The Silence Page 92

by Wade Davis


  Mallory, Trafford (brother), 166, 194, 539; death of, 560; in World War I, 186, 189, 196

  Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, 567–73

  Manbahadur, 508, 509, 519, 553

  Manchester Guardian, 4, 95

  Manchu Empire, 48, 120

  Manchuria, 54

  Mani Rimdu, 446–7

  Manners, Lady Diana, 200

  maps: curvature of globe and, 43–4; uncharted regions and, 47. See also Survey of India

  Marathas, 72

  Markham, Sir Clement, 129

  marriage, in Edwardian era, 171

  Marsh, Edward, 172, 173, 182, 183, 187, 188, 189, 193, 195, 196

  Masefield, John, 93, 94, 183

  Mason, Lionel, 128

  Matterhorn, 3, 144

  McGovern, William Montgomery, 465

  McKenna, Neil, 172

  McMahon Line, 121

  Meade, C. F., 86, 125, 126, 144, 153

  Merton College Arctic Expedition, 477

  Mesopotamia, 294, 481; Wheeler’s Indian Corps command in, 232–3

  Metohkangmi (yeti), 353

  Milarepa, 66–7, 112, 258, 264, 272, 304, 321

  Mingma, 547–8, 550

  Minto, Lord, 74, 120

  Miyolangsangma, 499

  Moltke, Helmut von, 10

  Mongolia, 118

  Mongols, 47, 48, 52, 104

  Monlam Chenmo (Great Prayer Festival), 124

  Mons, retreat from (1914), 97–8, 379

  monsoon, 111, 341, 564; arrival of, during 1921 reconnaissance, 207, 212, 213, 214, 225, 235–6, 243, 256, 258, 283, 284–6, 287, 298, 303, 305, 307, 333; expected earlier than usual in 1924, 492, 496, 513; fierce winds at end of, 361; Kharta’s location in shadow of, 309; later than usual in 1924, 538–9; 1921 expedition’s summit attempts and, 305, 336, 346, 361; 1922 expedition’s summit attempts and, 403, 408, 416, 417, 418, 440, 441, 445–6, 451, 513; specter of, over 1924 expedition, xv, 492, 496, 513, 516, 521–2, 523, 525, 538–9, 541; timing of Everest expeditions and, 366, 393

  Montagu, Edwin, 86, 101, 110

  Mont Blanc, 148, 168, 178, 250, 273, 346, 408, 475

  Moore, G. E., 174

  Morgan Library (New York), 466

  Morley, John, 74

  Morris, John, 372–7, 379, 452, 458, 488; advanced camps and, 411, 412, 413, 418, 426, 442, 445–6; in Darjeeling at start of expedition, 376–7, 387–8, 389; on Dzatrul Rinpoche, 406; Finch’s assessment of, 390; in Indian Army, 375–6; invited to join 1922 expedition, 372–3; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394, 396, 397–9, 406–8; nicknamed Babu Chatterjee, 401–2; porters managed by, 411, 447; postwar existence of, 372, 404; return journey of, to Darjeeling, 447; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 444–5, 446; unavailable for 1924 expedition, 470, 482, 483; wartime experiences of, 372, 373–5, 396, 448; in years after expedition, 404, 448, 457–8, 564

  Morshead, Evie, 204, 211, 212, 364, 389, 394, 400, 450

  Morshead, Henry, 50, 75, 84, 159, 205, 206–12, 233, 304, 336, 394, 398, 400, 458, 474; advanced camps and (1922), 411, 412, 414, 416; approaches to Lhakpa La mapped by, 341–2; Bell’s objections to survey of, 366–7, 389; climbing ability of, 154, 211, 235, 242; country west of Everest explored by, 320–3; in Darjeeling before expeditions, 140, 159, 204, 212, 389; death of, 50, 208; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363–4; evacuated to Darjeeling (1922), 440–1, 450, 451, 457; Finch’s assessment of, 390; frostbite suffered by, 422, 428, 438, 440–1, 448, 450, 451, 457; indifferent to discomfort and risk, 210–11; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet (1921), 206–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 394–5, 396–7; Longstaff’s illness and, 413; main party of 1921 expedition joined by, 227–8; Mallory and Bullock’s reconnaissance of Rongbuk side joined by, 328, 329, 332, 334–6; Mallory’s opinion of, 154–5, 206, 235, 278, 417; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366, 369, 389; pacification of North-East Frontier and, 208–9; at Shegar, 245; summit attempt and (1921), 242, 342, 344–5, 346, 347, 348, 349–51, 352–5, 360; summit attempt and (1922), 414, 417–23, 424–8, 438; survey missions of, 206–7, 217, 236, 242, 258, 260, 266, 303, 310, 320–3, 341–2, 360, 363, 365, 366–7, 369, 389, 395; Tibetan spoken by, 204; in Tingri, 256, 258, 260, 286, 303; Tsangpo Gorge explored by, 50, 208, 209–10, 257, 258; unavailable for 1924 expedition, 470, 483; upper Phung Chu mapped by, 258, 286, 363; wartime experiences of, 211–12; on Wheeler’s discovery of key to Everest, 339

  Moti, 483

  Mountaineering Art (Raeburn), 130, 346

  mountain sickness, 77, 384

  Mountains of Snowdonia, The (Young), 5–6

  Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance (Mallory), 380

  Mount Everest Committee. See Everest Committee

  Mount Everest Fund, 156

  Mumm, A. L., 73–4, 86

  Mummery, Albert, 85

  Murchison, Sir Roderick, 45–6

  Muslims, 72

  Nagas, 208

  Namgya, 520–1

  Nanda Devi, 475

  Nangpa La, 249, 257, 258, 260, 263–4, 266, 267, 269, 271, 272, 305; Wheeler’s high camp at, 267, 269, 280, 284–6

  Nanook of the North, 384

  Napoleonic Wars, 26, 68, 71, 72

  Naro Bhun Chon, 66–7

  Nash, Paul, 9

  National Geographic Society, 158

  National Trust, 4

  Nation and Athenaeum, 558–9

  Natural History Museum, 157

  Nazurga, Tibet, 261

  Nechung Oracle, 59

  Nema Tundrup, 538, 540, 541, 542

  Nepal, 47, 49, 63, 65, 67, 82, 239, 246, 247, 249, 255, 257, 267, 271, 272, 298, 299, 303, 304, 314, 320–1, 338, 404; access to Everest through, 68, 70, 74, 75, 100, 108, 109, 278, 293, 565; ethnic Tibetans of (see Sherpas); exploration of borderlands between Tibet and, 268–9; soldiers of (see Gurkhas); Wheeler’s crossing into, 260

  Nepal, maharaja of, 68, 70, 74, 75, 108; Hinks’s gift to son of, 158

  Nesthorn, 8–9, 177–8

  neurasthenia (shell shock), 13, 98, 99

  New Army, 25, 31

  Newfoundland, Wakefield’s service in, 13–14

  Newfoundland Regiment, 14–15, 16–17, 22–3; in Somme offensive, 28, 33–6, 381

  New Guinea, 384; British expeditions in, 138–40, 304

  New York Times, 465

  Nezogu, 306

  Ngawang Tenzin Norbu. See Dzatrul Rinpoche

  Nicholas II, Czar, 53

  Nicolson, James, 45

  Nima Tundrup, 547–8, 550

  Nim Dorji, 350

  1914 and Other Poems (Brooke), 188

  Nineteenth Century, 69

  Noel, John, xv, 75, 80–4, 85, 382–4, 385, 400, 446, 447, 458, 485, 486, 488, 524, 526, 561–4; on audience with Dzatrul Rinpoche (1924), 511; background of, 80–1; as candidate for 1922 expedition, 127–8, 370, 371; commemorative postcards and, 483–4; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 483–4; entrepreneurial schemes of, 382, 483–4; Everest approach attempted by (1913), 76, 80–3, 100, 123, 382; Everest Committee’s financial arrangement with, 467–8, 470; Everest first clearly viewed by, 403; final campaign of 1924 expedition and, 527–8, 530, 537, 540, 541–2, 546–7, 548, 549, 550; Finch and Bruce’s summit attempt and, 428–9, 431, 436, 437; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first Everest film by (Climbing Mount Everest), 384, 449, 455, 467, 471, 561; first failed campaign and (1924), 506, 508, 509, 510; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394–5, 398–9, 402, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 497; Kellas’s scheme to reach Everest and, 83–4, 382; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546–7, 548, 549, 550, 556, 561; Mallory’s last note for, 541–2; mural at Rongbuk Monastery and, 499; organization of 1921 expedition and, 127, 145, 153; photographic documentation of 1922 expedition by, 382, 383–4, 394, 402, 403–4, 408, 418, 426, 428, 429, 435, 442–3; photographic documentation of 1924 expedition by, 467–8, 503, 537, 541, 546, 552; photographic laboratories set up by, 408, 410, 484; as raconteur, 382–3; RGS addres
sed by (1919), 86–7, 93, 95–6, 99–100, 382; second Everest film by (The Epic of Everest), 384, 557, 561–4; second failed campaign and, 514, 521; technical innovations of, 484; third summit attempt and (1922), 440, 441, 442–3; Tibetan rituals and customs documented by, 402, 455; Tibetans disparaged by, 404; wartime experiences of, 97–9, 383

  Noel, Sybille, 483, 499, 562

  Norbu (avalanche victim), 445, 552

  Norbu Yishé, 532, 533

  Northcliffe, Lord, 95

  North Col (Chang La), 365, 386, 431, 440; Bullock’s note of August 13, 1921, and, 328–9; camps established on (1921), 337, 349, 351; camps established on (1922), 403, 408–9, 411, 413–16, 435, 436; camps established on (1924), 494–5, 501–8, 513–22, 523–4; changes in, between 1922 and 1924 expeditions, 514, 515; climbing team’s ascent of (1921), 337, 349, 351, 352, 353, 356–9, 360, 361, 369; climbing teams’ ascents of (1922), 414–15, 418, 419–21, 428–9, 435, 444, 451, 514; climbing teams’ retreats down (1922), 425–6, 435, 436; expedited route to (1922), 402–3; focus of 1922 expedition and, 368, 402–3; Irvine’s rope ladder for ice chimney on, 526, 528; Lhakpa La (Windy Gap) as route to, 329, 336; Mallory and Bullock’s miscalculation with regard to, 282, 292, 329; Mallory and Bullock’s search for route to, 277, 282, 291, 292, 299, 306, 311, 314–15, 316–19, 325, 327, 328–9, 334–6; Mallory’s first completely clear view of, 351; Mallory’s initial scouting of, 263, 274; Mallory’s photographic mishap and, 306; Mallory’s response to Wheeler’s map of, 329–30, 333–4, 336, 339; 1924 expedition’s first failed campaign on, 501–10, 511, 512; 1924 expedition’s last ascent of, 527–9; 1924 expedition’s second failed campaign on, 513–22; rescue of stranded porters on (1924), 518–22; route established up (1922), 414–15, 514, 515; route established up (1924), 514–16; route to Everest from, xv–xvi; Sherpas’ death in avalanche on (1922), xv, 3, 443–6, 450–3, 483, 504; Wheeler’s discovery of most efficient route to, 329–34, 339

  North-East Frontier, 208–9

  North Peak. See Changtse

  North Pole, 86

  North-West Frontier, 24, 47, 51, 72, 211, 294, 375, 378, 428–9, 457–8, 481–2

  Norton, Edward (Teddy), 371, 391–3, 403, 447, 452, 453, 458, 481, 482, 486, 512, 558; advanced camps and (1922), 408, 411, 412, 416; advance planning for 1924 summit attempts and, 493–6; assessment of 1922 performance of, 469–70; background of, 391; biographical sketch of, 393; birding of, 399, 400; clothing of, 530–1; configuration of climbing parties and, 495–6, 513, 524–5, 527, 528, 538; council of May 26, 1924, and, 522–5; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s audience and, 498, 509, 510–12; establishment of advanced camps and, 501, 505–7; evacuated to Kharta, 441, 446; evacuation of mountain and, 550, 552; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, xv–xvi, 527–8, 529, 530–7, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543, 546–7, 548, 549, 551, 557; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first failed campaign and (1924), 505–8, 509, 510; frostbite suffered by, 422, 438, 441; height record of (1924), 564; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 395, 396, 398–9, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 491, 496, 498, 501; leadership of 1924 expedition devolved to, 392, 491, 492, 493, 496; leave secured for, to participate in 1922 expedition, 392–3; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 546–7, 548, 549, 550, 552, 553, 555, 556, 557, 560, 566; Mallory’s opinion of, 392, 485, 496, 514; named second-in-command and climbing leader of 1924 expedition, 461, 469–70; personality and demeanor of, 392, 470; rescue of stranded porters and (1924), 518–22; second failed campaign and (1924), 513, 514–16, 517, 518–21, 522; on Sherpa character, 526–7; snow-blinded in final ascent, xvi, 534, 535–6, 538, 539, 540; specimens collected by, 396, 448; summit attempt of (1922), 414, 417–28, 437, 438, 533; summit attempt of (1924), xv–xvi, 530–7, 543, 557; supplemental oxygen and, 494–6, 524, 537; tall and thin physique of, 470; Times dispatches of, 506, 546; wartime experiences of, 391–2, 478–9, 498, 506; in years after Everest expeditions, 448, 458

  Norton, Jake, 569, 570

  Noyce, Wilfrid, 565

  Nup La, 289, 290

  Nuptse, 281

  Nyenyam, Tibet, 255, 258, 304, 320–1

  Nyima Tendu, 275, 317–18, 323, 325, 327, 335

  O’Brien, Conor, 199

  Observer, 33, 125, 568

  O’Connor, Frederick, 55, 113

  Odell, Eric, 475

  Odell, Gwladys Mona, 476

  Odell, Noel, 153, 371, 462, 474–9, 481, 485, 511, 524, 526, 564; background of, 475; Bruce’s health problems and, 489; climbing ability of, 475; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 496, 512, 524, 532; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 482, 483; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–9, 530, 531, 536, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543–6, 547–51; first failed campaign and, 502–3, 505, 506, 507, 508; glimpse of Mallory and Irvine’s ascent reported by, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550, 551, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; Irvine brought to expedition by, 476–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 488, 492, 495; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 545–6, 547–52, 556–7, 558, 560–1, 566, 568; Mallory’s last note for, 541, 542; nicknamed Noah, 475; oxygen duties assigned to, 474, 477; personality and demeanor of, 475, 476; second failed campaign and, 514–16, 517–18, 519, 521, 522; wartime experiences of, 475–6, 478–9; in years after Everest expedition, 475

  Officer Training Corps, 187

  oil fields, 232

  On High Hills (Young), 9

  On Mountain Craft (Young), 5

  Orde-Lees, Theodore, 129–30

  Owen, Harold, 197

  Owen, Wilfred, 188, 195, 197

  Oxford, 41, 113, 147, 172, 187, 296, 472, 476, 477, 489, 502; research on supplemental oxygen at, 384, 385, 386

  oxygen, supplemental, 384–7, 457, 463, 571; abandonment of carefully crafted plans for (1924), 524, 539; climbing team’s training with (1922), 387, 388, 395, 399; development of apparatuses for, 385–7; ethical and aesthetic critiques of, 384, 457; Finch’s briefing of Everest Committee and, 462–3; Finch’s high-altitude test of, 427–8; Finch’s record climb and, 339, 433–4, 437, 442, 524; Irvine’s redesign of equipment for, 478, 487, 496–7; Kellas’s research on, 140–1, 205, 384, 385; mask issue and, 385, 387; in 1922 expedition, 382, 384–7, 388–9, 391, 395–6, 398, 399, 409, 410–11, 412, 414, 416, 417, 418, 419, 426, 427–8, 429, 432, 433–4, 437, 439, 442, 457, 524; in 1924 expedition, 457, 468, 474, 477–8, 487–8, 494–7, 502, 503, 504, 506, 523, 524, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 545, 549; Noel’s schemes and, 382; Orde-Lees’s scheme and, 129; pilots’ use of, 126, 147, 384–5; provided to Noel (1924), 468; rescue of May 1922 climbing team and, 426, 427–8; survivability of cessation of, 434

  oxygen deprivation, 77–8, 86, 384; acclimatization and, 69, 78, 126, 510; Hingston’s research on, 483; Kellas’s research on, 77–8, 93, 140; suffocating tent enclosures and, 354, 410, 420–1; susceptibility to frostbite and, 438

  Padma Sambhava (Guru Rinpoche), 246, 247, 252–4, 259, 262, 270, 272, 299, 300, 301, 304, 404, 499

  Paget, Major, 376

  Pamir Mountains, 51, 54

  Panchen Lama, 48, 59, 64, 108

  Pang La, 249–50, 402, 403, 451, 496, 498

  Parvati, 66

  Pasang Namgyn, 445, 552

  Pashok, India, 212–13, 364

  Passchendaele offensive (1917), 96–7, 106, 107, 194–5, 211

  Pathans, 72, 73

  Pathé News, 484

  Pauhunri, 76, 226, 228

  Paul, Karma, 394, 404, 483, 496, 509, 510

  Pearls and Savages, 384

  Pearson, A. V., 31

  Pema, 445, 552

  Pen y Pass, 6, 8, 144, 179, 189, 199, 526

  Pereira, Arthur, 484

  Persia and the Persian Question (Curzon), 40

  Pethang Ringmo, 313–14, 319, 324

  Pethangtse, 257, 313, 324

  Phari, Tibet, 52, 68, 119, 160, 239, 428, 552, 555; descriptions of, 117, 221, 488; Howard-Bury’s 1920 travels to, 116–18; 1921 expedition’s
route through, 207, 208, 214, 216, 220, 221–4, 364; 1922 expedition’s route through, 394, 396, 397–8, 447; 1924 expedition’s route through, 488–9, 490, 494

  Pharuk, 80

  Philadelphia Public Ledger, 158

  photography: in survey methodology, 264, 265–6. See also Noel, John

  Phung Chu, 224, 239, 240–1, 242, 243, 244, 245, 249, 250, 252, 257, 260, 298, 302, 305, 341; Morshead’s mapping of, 258, 286, 363

  Phuse La, 258, 264, 268, 269, 322–3

  pig sticking, 378, 393

  Pioneer Peak, 70

  Pius XI, Pope, 480

  poison gas, 12–13, 28, 88, 99, 392

  poles, quest for, 69, 75, 78, 79–80, 86, 87, 479, 487, 488

  Politz, Andy, 570, 571

  Pollard, Thom, 570

  Ponting, Herbert, 383

  Poo, 263, 483, 518

  Popti La, 338

  Powys Sketchley, Mrs., 150

  prayer flags, 486–7

  prayer wheels, 219, 497

  Primus stoves, at high altitude, 141, 147

  Princess Royal, 14–15

  Principia Ethica (Moore), 174

  Prohibition, 465

  prosthetic limbs, 3–4

  public schools: boys’ relationships at, 172; culture of, 166–8, 171–2, 181–3, 199; empire’s needs served by, 166–7; graduates of, lost to war, 186–7; Mallory’s teaching career in, 181–3, 186–9, 199, 200–1

  Public Schools Club (London), 187

  Pulme, Tibet, 303

  Pumori, 257, 287, 288

  Punagang Monastery, 219

  Punch, 100

  Punjabis, 73, 376

  Pye, David, 181, 199, 228, 369, 441, 465–6, 525, 526

  Pygmies and Papuans (Wollaston), 140

  Quinton, W. A., 99

  Rabkar Glacier, 80, 83

 

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