Into The Silence

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Into The Silence Page 91

by Wade Davis


  Hoyland, Graham, 569

  Hudson’s Bay Company, 157

  Hunza, 40, 54, 71

  Hurke Gurung, 481, 501

  Hurley, Frank, 384

  Huxley, Aldous, 174

  Huxley, Julian, 174

  Illustrated London News, 387–8

  Imperial War Graves Commission, 234

  India: British rule in, 41–6, 47, 49; civil unrest in, 294–6, 389, 390, 470; as empire of ideas rather than territorial boundaries, 43; exploration of, 46, 47; Howard-Bury’s mission to, 108, 109, 111–18, 131–2; Howard-Bury’s unsanctioned travels in, 103; mapping of (see Survey of India); Russian threat to, 51, 52–3, 54, 60; tensions along frontier of, 51–3; World War II and, 230

  Indian Army, 25, 41, 51, 72, 131, 296, 377, 390, 481; fighting in North-West Frontier and, 375–6, 378; Wheeler’s Indian Corps command and, 230–2

  Indian Civil Service, 41, 113–14, 116

  Indian Mutiny (1857), 46

  India Office (London), first Everest expedition and, 101, 110–11, 112–13, 114, 124, 130

  Indus, 66, 67

  Information Department, 94

  Invalid Children’s Aid Association, 158

  Iraq: Wheeler’s reconnaissance in, 232–3. See also Mesopotamia

  Ireland, troubles in, 199–200, 294, 296–7, 344, 369, 454, 470

  Irvine, Andrew Comyn (Sandy), 473, 476–9, 485, 486, 488; athletic ability of, 476, 502, 512; on audience with Dzatrul Rinpoche, 511–12; at base camp, 502; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 496, 512, 513, 524, 528, 530, 532, 538; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; Everest first seen by, 496; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–9, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 539–51; final climb and death of, xv–xvi, 3, 401, 539–58, 560, 565–73; first failed campaign and, 502–4, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 487, 489, 492, 496–7, 502; mechanical skills of, 476–7, 478, 487, 489, 502, 526; memorial services for, 560–1; mountaineering abilities of, 477, 478, 513; Odell’s fleeting glimpse of, during final ascent, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550–1, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; older men’s emotional attraction to, 478–9; oxygen duties of, 477–8, 487, 496–7, 502, 523, 532, 538, 539, 545, 549; personal effects of, 550, 552; response in England to death of, 555–6, 557–9; rope ladder made by, 526, 528; second failed campaign and, 514, 517, 518, 519, 521, 522; speculation about circumstances of death of, 556–7, 558, 565–73

  Irvine, Hugh, 478

  Irving, Graham, 155, 167–8

  Isaacs (Macdonald’s head clerk), 216, 218–19

  Isherwood, Christopher, 198

  Jack, E. M., 126, 144

  James, Henry, 173, 183, 191

  Japan, 101; World War II and, 230, 448

  Jelep La, 56, 114, 119, 207, 215, 216–17, 382, 394, 396, 486

  Jesuits, 77

  Johnson, W., 98

  Johnston, Agnes Isobel “Bubbles,” 151, 152

  Johnstone, G. H. (later Baron Derwent), 183

  Jones, Humphrey and Muriel, 184

  Joyce, Ernest, 128–9, 130

  Kabru, 203

  Kadir Cup, 378, 391, 393

  Kailash, 50, 66–7, 103, 210

  Kalimpong, 120, 204, 207, 212, 213–14, 394, 395, 482, 486, 487

  Kama Changri, 347

  Kama Chu, Kama Valley, 80, 82, 83, 239, 299, 302, 323, 326, 362, 363, 416, 417, 447; Howard-Bury’s exploration of, 309, 325, 326, 338–9; Kellas’s photographs of, 76; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 299, 310, 312–16, 318, 320, 325; spiritual significance of, 299–300

  Kambu, Kambu La, 117, 219

  Kamet, 86, 125, 128, 141, 144, 154, 211, 474

  Kami, 503

  Kampa Dzong, 68, 80, 100, 116, 341, 363, 364; Kellas’s burial in, xv, 228–9, 341, 398, 399; 1921 expedition’s route through, 206, 207, 208, 221, 224, 227–9, 234–6, 237, 238, 239, 256–7; 1922 expedition’s route through, 395, 398–9; 1924 expedition’s route through, 489, 491, 492, 493, 494; Younghusband’s diplomatic mission to, 53, 55–6, 57, 63, 64, 80, 206

  Kanchenjhau, 76, 226, 228

  Kangchenjunga, 45, 63, 68, 69, 110–11, 203, 324, 347, 377, 542

  Kangchen La, 322

  Kangdoshung Glacier, 313, 325, 326

  Kangshung Face. See Everest—Kangshung Face of

  Kangshung Glacier, 313, 314, 324

  Kangyur, 219, 273

  Karakoram, 54, 70, 71, 73, 78, 103, 125, 391, 428

  Karpo La, 316, 317, 362

  Kartse, 315, 316, 317, 318, 324, 327

  Kashag (Council of Four of Tibet), 48, 59

  Kashmir, 47, 63, 103, 377

  Kawaguchi, Ekai, 52

  Kazbek, 69

  Keedick, Lee, 464, 465

  Kellas, Alexander, 75, 76–80, 81, 85, 86, 100, 128, 131, 140–1, 146, 154, 165, 211, 310, 370, 474; background of, 76; death and burial of, xv, 228–9, 233, 235, 236, 336, 341, 366, 370, 398, 399, 456, 470, 490, 552; eastern assault on Everest planned by, 83–4, 382; effects of high altitude studied by, 76–8, 93, 145; journeying across Tibet, 221–8; Mallory’s opinion of, 205, 234; oxygen apparatuses tested by, 140–1, 205, 384, 386; route taken into Tibet by, 207–8; selected for 1921 expedition, 140, 141; Sherpas and, 78–9, 80, 83, 140

  Kelly, R. E., 231

  Kemble, Harry, 187

  Keynes, Geoffrey, 5–6, 17, 19, 173, 174, 176, 186, 196, 200, 479, 556

  Keynes, John Maynard, 5–6, 8, 135, 171, 173, 174, 175, 176, 181, 186, 198, 200, 380

  Keynes, Margaret Elizabeth Darwin, 200

  Kham, 122, 209

  Khan, Munir, 396

  Kharta, 80, 83, 239, 259, 272, 273, 325; as base for second phase of reconnaissance, 280, 283, 286, 291, 292, 293, 298–9, 305, 306, 308–11, 320, 323, 324, 326, 328, 333; encampment site selected in, 298–9; end of 1921 expedition in, 362–3, 364, 369; Howard-Bury and Heron’s first journey to, 293–4, 297–8; Howard-Bury’s return to, 306–8; launching assault on Everest from, 336–8, 339–40, 341–2, 351; in 1922 expedition’s return home, 441, 446, 447; Raeburn’s arrival at, 340–1

  Kharta Changri, 328, 332

  Kharta Chu, Kharta Valley, 80, 83, 298, 299, 302, 309, 323, 365; launching assault on Everest through, 334, 336–7, 341–2, 359, 363; Mallory and Bullock’s reconnaissance of, 310, 311–12, 315, 317, 318–19, 326, 327–8; Wheeler and Morshead’s mapping of approaches to Lhakpa La through, 341–2

  Kharta Glacier, 327–9, 332, 334–6; climbing party’s crossing of, 347–51

  Kharta Shika, 298

  Khe, Tibet, 225–6

  Khenbalung (Hidden Valley of Artemesia), 299–301, 312

  Khumbu, 272

  Khumbu Icefall, 290, 292, 565

  Khumbu Valley, 260

  Khyber Pass, 72

  Kiggell, Sir Launcelot, 96–7

  Kim (Kipling), 49

  Kinematograph Weekly, 562

  Kinthup, Pundit, 50, 63, 209, 212

  Kipling, John, 89, 183

  Kipling, Rudyard, 49, 72, 89, 94, 295

  Kitar, 350

  Kitchener, Henry, Lord, 15, 24–5, 31, 166, 373

  Krishnamurti, 103

  K2, 70

  Kumaonoi, 79

  Kura La, 65

  Kurz, Marcel, 130

  Kyetrak (hamlet), Tibet, 264, 267, 269, 306, 323

  Kyetrak Chu, 306

  Kyetrak Glacier, 257, 259, 260, 264, 267–8, 269, 281, 305

  Kyishong, Tibet, 243, 496

  Labrador, 13–14

  Lachen, Sikkim, 234, 260, 364, 441, 491

  Ladakh, 47, 63

  Laden La, 563

  Lagay, 355, 356, 358

  Lake District, 3–5, 381, 471, 472, 475, 534

  Lamna La, 258, 261, 269, 306

  Lamsdorf, Count Vladimir, 53

  Landon, Perceval, 59, 60, 247

  Landor, Henry Savage, 58, 247

  Langbu La, 82

  Langkor, Tibet, 304, 320

  Langma La, 80, 83, 310, 312, 313, 318, 323, 324–5

  Lansdowne, Lord, 101, 102


  Lapche, 258, 259, 304, 321–2, 324

  Larkins, F. E., 145–7, 148, 152, 370, 468–9, 488

  Lawrence, D. H., 183

  Lawrence, T. E., 92

  League of Nations Union, 199

  Lechner, Herr, 130

  Leighton, Roland, 89

  Leiter, Mary (later Mrs. George Curzon), 41

  Lepchas, 79, 203, 404

  Letitia, 37

  Lhakpa (porter), 445, 552

  Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 329, 332, 336, 337, 339, 359, 361, 416; climbing party’s advance to (1921), 342, 348, 349, 350–1, 352–5; descent to East Rongbuk from, 351, 353, 356; mapping of approaches to, 341–2, 411

  Lhakpa Tsering, 514–15, 516

  Lhasa, Tibet, 47, 48, 49, 53, 101, 121, 207, 248, 465; Bell’s mission to, 122–4; Chinese conquest of (1910), 119–20; response to Noel’s The Epic of Everest in, 562–4; Younghusband Mission to (invasion of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247

  Lhatse, Tibet, 64

  Lho La, 277, 278, 289, 292

  Lhotse, 80, 249, 257, 281, 290, 314, 324

  Liberal government, 74, 118

  Ling, William, 153

  Lingga, Tibet, 236

  Lingkhor Rinpoche, 245–6

  Lingtren, 257, 288, 289

  Lithgow, J., 190

  Llakpa Chédé, 532, 533

  Llanberis Pass, 5–6

  Lloyd George, David, 94–5, 196

  Lloyd George, Gwilym, 196

  Lobsang Sherpa, 529, 530

  Lobsang Tashi, 532, 533

  Lohit, 209

  Longland, Jack, 564

  Longstaff, Dora, 450, 452

  Longstaff, Tom, 84, 86, 94, 153, 168, 281, 371, 389, 448, 458, 462, 470, 477, 496, 522, 558, 560; climbers deemed unfit for third summit attempt by, 438–9, 440, 451; Everest first clearly viewed by, 403; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first Everest proposals and, 74, 75; health problems of, 379, 381, 399, 404, 411, 412–13, 414, 418, 438, 439, 448, 456, 458; Hinks’s miserliness and, 157; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394, 396, 398–9, 402, 404, 407–8; as medical officer, 378–9, 381, 399, 408, 413, 438–9, 440, 452; medical review passed by, 413; Morshead and Strutt evacuated to Darjeeling by, 440–1, 450, 451; personality and demeanor of, 217, 379; return home of (1922), 446, 450–1, 452; selection of 1921 team and, 128, 130; selection of 1922 team and, 371, 378, 413; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–2, 456; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 463; Wheeler’s Canadian climbs and, 217

  Long White Mountain, 54

  Loos, Battle of (1915), 23, 88–9, 98, 104, 189, 211, 232

  Lopokova, Lydia, Baroness Keynes, 200

  Lost Horizon (Hilton), 248

  Ludendorff, Erich, 97

  Lumeh, Tibet, 302

  Lunn, Sir Arnold, 148, 466

  Lytton, Lady, 486

  Lytton, Lord, 450

  Macdonald, David, 115, 118, 119, 120, 123, 214, 216, 311

  MacDonald, James, 57

  Macdonald, John, 440, 485–6, 489, 491, 492, 493, 562

  Machig Labdrön, 270

  machine guns: in British skirmishes against Tibetans, 58, 59; Haig’s rejection of, 15, 457; Tibet’s desire for, 122; in World War I, 15, 16, 28, 30, 31, 36, 88

  Mahsud, 376, 378

  Makalu, 64, 235, 239, 242, 249, 257, 308, 312, 313, 314, 315, 323, 324, 325, 326, 332, 347, 360, 403, 416, 417; Howard-Bury’s climb to summit ridge between Everest and, 362

  Making of a Mountaineer, The (Finch), 151–2

  Mallory, Anne Beridge Jebb (mother), 165–6, 177, 513

  Mallory, Avie (sister), 166, 368

  Mallory, Beridge (daughter), 162, 194, 363, 467, 555

  Mallory, Clare (daughter), 162, 189, 191, 193, 194, 363, 464, 467, 525, 555

  Mallory, George Leigh, 5–6, 92, 94, 152–4, 159, 160, 162–204, 212, 220, 343, 379, 403, 408, 409–10, 456, 470, 565; abdominal pain (possible appendicitis) of, 490, 491, 492; absentmindedness of, 166, 178, 325, 397, 469, 542–3, 566; advance planning for 1924 summit attempts and, 493–6, 501–2; alpine ascents of, 8–9, 168–9, 177–8, 183–4; ankle injury of, 180, 193–4; athletic ability of, 168, 183, 503, 515, 566; “Because it’s there” remark of, 465–6; British ideal represented by, 141–2; as Cambridge lecturer, 466–7, 479–80, 485; as Cambridge student, 168, 169–71, 172–3, 180, 467; as candidate for 1924 expedition, 462, 471; clothing of, 539, 571; configuration of climbing parties and (1924), 495–6, 512–13, 525, 527, 528, 530, 532, 538; correspondence of, 343–4 (see also Mallory, Ruth Turner; Young, Geoffrey); council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1921), 202–6, 389; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1922), 389; in Darjeeling at start of expedition (1924), 485–6; discovery of corpse of, 567–70, 571; end of 1921 expedition and, 362–3, 364, 368–9; end of 1922 expedition and, 447, 449; equipment of 1921 expedition critiqued by, 371; fame of, 384, 453; family background of, 165–6; fateful miscalculation of, 282, 292, 329; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, 527–30, 531–2, 536, 537–8, 539–51; final climb and death of (1924), xv–xvi, 3, 401, 539–61, 565–73; financial situation of, 181, 184, 449, 458–9, 466–7; Finch’s assessment of, 390; Finch’s dismissal by Everest Committee and (1923), 463–4; Finch’s removal from 1921 team and, 152–3, 154; in first days of 1921 expedition, 212–16, 217, 218; first failed campaign and (1924), 502–5, 506–7, 508, 509, 510; first views of Everest and, 235–6, 238–44, 249–50; foot injury of, 194–5; frostbite suffered by, 423, 428, 438; on general shape of Everest, 283; Graham’s dismissal and, 473; height record set by (1922), 424, 428, 434, 438, 439; homoerotic culture and, 169–71, 172, 175–7, 179–81, 183, 478; indecisive about joining 1924 expedition, 479–81; Irish troubles and, 199–200; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; joint meeting of RGS and Alpine Club addressed by (1922), 457, 458; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet (1921), 206, 207–8, 212–16, 217, 218; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 394–5, 396, 397, 398–402, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 490, 491, 492, 494, 496, 497; journey of, from Rongbuk to Kharta (1921), 306–8; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri (1921), 218, 220–9, 235–6, 238, 239–40, 241, 242–3, 244, 247, 248–50, 256; Kellas’s illness and death and, 224, 228, 229, 233; in Kharta (1921), 308–9, 310, 336–8; last public pronouncement of, 525; leadership shifted to (1921), 337, 339, 343–4; lecture tours of, 368, 380, 458–9, 460, 464–7; literary tastes of, 191, 416, 492, 507, 560; Longstaff’s illness and, 413; medical review passed by, 145–6; memorial services for, 560–1; nicknamed Peter Pan, 402; Noel’s photographic documentation of, 384, 449; obituaries of, 168, 558–9; obsessed with Everest, 361, 441, 449, 479, 558–9; Odell’s fleeting glimpse of, during final ascent, xvi, 544–6, 547, 550–1, 557, 560, 566, 570–1, 573; opinions of, about 1921 colleagues, 205–6, 216, 229, 234–5, 245, 278, 296, 307, 310, 325, 338, 341, 344, 346; opinions of, about 1922 colleagues, 380, 382, 388, 392, 399–400, 417; opinions of, about 1924 colleagues, 485–6, 492–3, 496, 501–2, 514, 532; optimistic on eve of 1924 ascent, 512–13; organization of 1922 expedition and, 366, 368–71, 380, 386, 391; personal effects of, 550, 552; photographic plates ruined by, 291–2, 306, 307; photographs taken by, 324, 325, 402; physical beauty of, 167–8, 175, 176, 179; porters trained for mountaineering by (1921), 238, 275, 278–9, 280; public school and university years of, 166–80; purported attraction of, to Irvine, 478; reconnaissance of Everest approaches and, 256, 259, 260–3, 269, 273–84, 285, 286–92, 293, 305–6, 310–19, 320, 323–30, 332, 333–6, 357, 402–3 (see also specific sites); response in England to death of, 555–6, 557–9; route up North Col found by (1922), 414–15; ruling on fitness of, for third summit assault (1922), 438, 439, 440; as schoolmaster at Charterhouse, 181–3, 186–9, 199, 200–1, 449, 459, 466; second failed campaign and (1924), 513, 514–16, 518–21, 522; selected for 1921 expedition, 141–2, 144, 160, 201; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443, 444–5, 446, 451–3, 504; Smythe inspired by legacy of,
471–2; speculation about circumstances of death of, 556–7, 558, 565–73; summit attempt of (1921), 318–19, 334, 335, 336–7, 339–40, 342, 343–60, 361–2, 369; summit attempt of (May 1922), 413–16, 417–28, 433, 437, 438, 439; summit attempt of ( June 1922), 438, 439, 440–6, 451–3, 533; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 387, 388–9, 439, 442, 494–6, 497, 524, 530, 531, 532, 537, 538, 540, 542, 545, 571; Surrey home of (the Holt), 184, 466, 467; temperament of, 166, 178–9, 401; tensions between Bullock and, 279, 338; on Tibet and its people, 248; Times article by, 453, 454; unorthodox climbing methods of, 168, 177–8; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1921), 162–5, 202–3; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1922), 380, 382, 389; voyage out from England and rail journey to Darjeeling (1924), 485; wartime experiences of, 185–97, 478–9; wedding and honeymoon of, 184–5; at Winchester, 166, 167–8, 170, 172, 204

  Mallory, Rev. Herbert Leigh (father), 165, 166, 173, 174–5, 480

  Mallory, John (son), 162, 199, 201, 363, 467, 555

  Mallory, Mary (sister), 166, 479, 492, 496, 501–2, 539

  Mallory, Ruth Turner (wife), 162, 186, 193, 196, 201, 346, 368, 371, 413, 458, 463, 464, 466, 467, 479, 480, 496, 507, 539; childbearing of, 189, 194, 199; death of, 560; husband’s death and, 555, 556, 559–60; husband’s letters to, 162, 163, 164–5, 190, 191, 192, 193, 196, 197, 203, 204, 205, 212, 216, 218, 220, 223, 229, 233, 234, 238, 239, 240, 249, 275, 281, 283–4, 291, 296, 307, 308, 310, 311, 314–15, 324, 325, 326–7, 328, 335, 336, 338, 339, 343, 346, 348–9, 362, 363, 364, 380, 388, 392, 396, 397, 413, 420, 439, 441, 446, 453, 464, 485, 488, 492–3, 494, 496, 497, 506, 507, 512–13, 516, 519, 525–6, 532; wedding and honeymoon of, 184–5

 

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