Into The Silence

by Wade Davis

  Ra Chu, 257, 258, 263, 267, 269, 281

  Raeburn, Harold, 144, 146, 153, 154, 159, 160, 165, 201, 204, 205, 206, 233, 369, 377, 492; appointed climbing leader, 130–1, 135, 141; assault on Everest and (1921), 342, 346, 347, 348, 351, 352, 360; descent into madness of, 130–1, 398, 470; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363, 364; expedition rejoined by, 340–1; invalided to Sikkim, 234, 236, 259–60, 310, 336, 364, 370, 456; journeying across Tibet, 221, 223–6, 234; Mallory’s opinion of, 216, 234, 341, 346; route taken into Tibet by, 207–8; temperament of, 130

  Ragyabas, 59

  Rajputs, 72

  Ram, Pundit Hari, 63–4, 212, 255, 321

  Ramakrishna, 62

  Ramsay, G., 190

  Rapiu La, 416, 417, 427

  Raven Crag, 471

  Rawling, Cecil, 63, 64–7, 75, 76, 80, 84, 86, 87, 94, 101, 136, 139, 144, 207, 210, 211, 212, 491; death of, 97; Everest first seen by, 65, 69; wartime experiences of, 87–8, 96–7, 104

  Rawlinson, Lord Henry, 30, 481

  Read, Herbert, 93, 198, 347

  Reade, H. V., 178

  Reading, Lord, 204

  Rendall, G. H., 181, 182–3

  Rhodes, Cecil, 167

  Rhombu, 483

  Richards, Tap, 569, 570

  rifles, 14, 16, 28

  Rin-chen Lha-mo, 117

  Rinjia Namgya, 267

  Ri-Ring, 281, 282, 292

  Robertson, David, 176, 465–6

  Robertson, Donald, 8, 9

  Rodakowski, Raymond, 183

  Roerich, Nicholas, 247–8

  Roman Empire, 47

  Ronaldshay, Lord, 123, 203, 204, 205, 206, 457, 560

  Rongbuk Chu, Rongbuk Valley, 276, 281, 282, 286, 292, 293, 302, 306, 407, 498; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 259–63, 269; as possible route for assault on Everest (1921), 334, 336; Wheeler’s survey of, 307, 310, 329–34

  Rongbuk Glacier, xvi, 311, 402, 430; alpine camp on (First Advanced Camp), 274, 275–6, 279–80, 287, 407; Howard-Bury and Heron’s visit to camp on, 279–80; Mallory and Bullock’s exploration of, 273–84, 286–92, 305, 306, 328–30; 1922 expedition’s move up, 402–3, 404, 406–8; Second Advanced Camp at snout of, 287, 291; speedy flow of, 290; spike camp on, 290. See also East Rongbuk Valley and Glacier

  Rongbuk Monastery, 269–73, 491; Buddhist seekers attracted to environs of, 268, 269, 270–2, 279, 367, 406; Mani Rimdu ritual at, 446–7; mural painted after 1922 expedition at, 499–500; 1921 expedition and, 258, 259, 269–70, 272–3, 275, 279, 280, 287, 291, 293, 330, 367; 1922 expedition and, 402, 404–6, 446–7; 1924 expedition and, 491, 496, 497, 498–500, 502, 509, 510–12, 553; permanent structures at, 271, 272; rituals at, believed to irritate demons of Everest, 409, 418. See also Dzatrul Rinpoche

  Rong Chu, 258

  Rongli, 214–15

  Rongshar Chu, Rongshar Valley, 258, 259, 264, 267–9, 322–3, 367

  Roof Climber’s Guide to Trinity, The, 8

  Room with a View, A (Forster), 173

  rope technology, 571, 572

  Rothermere, Lord, 95

  Rothschild, Charles, 137

  Rothschild, Lionel de, 157

  Round Kangchenjunga (Freshfield), 69

  Rowlatt Acts, 390

  Royal Air Force (RAF), 147, 384–5

  Royal Army Medical Corps (RAMC), 17–23; extent of casualties treated by, 18–19, 20–1; retrieval of wounded from front and, 17–18; Somme offensive and, 31–4

  Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, 157

  Royal Flying Corps, 93, 112, 149, 189

  Royal Geographical Society (RGS), 54, 67, 68, 69, 70, 74, 75, 77, 83, 85–7, 109–10, 124, 125, 126, 144–5, 148, 218, 320, 522–3; Bruce’s address to (1920), 131; Curzon awarded Gold Medal of, 40; financing of Everest expeditions and, 156, 394, 456; generational rift among climbers and, 457; joint meeting of Alpine Club and (1922), 457–8; Kellas’s paper delivered to (1916), 78–9; Mallory and Irvine memorialized at joint meeting of Alpine Club and, 560–1; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 555–6; naming of Everest and, 45–6; Noel’s address to (1919), 86–7, 93, 95–6, 99–100, 382; Wollaston’s public report to (1921), 366; Younghusband’s inaugural address to (1920), 109–10

  Royal Horticultural Society, 157

  Royal Navy, 4, 47, 91

  Rujé monastery, Tibet, 65

  Russell, Bertrand, 173, 186

  Russell, Scott, 148, 151–2, 461

  Russia, Russian Empire: British relations with, 51, 52–3, 54, 57, 60, 74, 118; Howard-Bury’s travels in, 103, 104; Tibetan relations with, 52–3, 57, 60, 118; in World War I, 88, 91, 106, 133. See also Soviet Union

  Russian Revolution, 294

  Ruttledge, Hugh, 474, 564

  Ruwenzori Mountains, 137–8

  Ryder, Charles, 63, 64–7, 76, 86, 158–9, 161, 207, 210, 212, 228, 367, 470

  Sakeding, Tibet, 338

  Salkeld, Audrey, 567

  Samchung La, 309, 325

  Samye, 247

  Sanders, Cottie (later known as Ann Bridge), 5–6, 171, 178–80, 181

  Sanders, Jack, 186, 187

  Sangay, 445, 552

  Sangkar Ri, 400–1

  Sanglar, 508

  Sanglu, 327, 328, 349, 350, 354

  Sassoon, Siegfried, 29, 30, 93, 98, 183, 188, 195, 200

  Sayle, Charles, 172, 173, 176

  scarlet fever, 367

  Scott, C. P., 95

  Scott, Kathleen, 479

  Scott, Robert Falcon, 128, 383, 479, 487, 488

  Secret War Propaganda Bureau, 94–5

  Sedongchen, Tibet, 215, 396–7

  Sella, Vittorio, 383

  Semchumbi, 532, 533

  Serpo La, 53, 55, 56, 80, 81, 206, 260, 340–1, 363, 364, 441, 491

  17th Lancers, Regimental Journal of, 158

  Shackleton, Sir Ernest, 110, 128, 129, 130, 455

  Shakespeare, William, 191

  Shakyamuni, 246, 252, 271, 304

  Shamsherpun, 508, 509, 552

  Shangri-La, Western notion of, 248, 254

  Shao La, 325, 326, 362

  Shaw, George Bernard, 181, 182, 212

  Shebbeare, Edward Oswald, 476, 482, 486, 493, 523, 524, 526, 556, 564; final campaign of 1924 expedition and, 527–8, 542, 548, 551; first failed campaign and, 501, 505, 506; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 486, 487, 488, 489, 495, 496; second failed campaign and, 514, 519, 521, 522

  Shegar, Tibet, 244–9, 272, 336, 367, 405; complex story to, 246–7; 1921 expedition’s route through, 244–6, 247–9, 250, 252, 255, 257, 260, 298; 1922 expedition’s route through, 396, 400, 402, 403, 451, 493; 1924 expedition’s route through, 494, 496–7; Shining Crystal Monastery of, 244–7, 271, 275, 298, 367, 402, 497

  shells, high-explosive, 16

  shell shock, 13, 98, 99

  Sherpas, 73, 204, 249, 259, 271, 409, 431; British climbers’ lack of understanding of, 526–7; Dzatrul Rinpoche’s blessing of, 498, 509, 510–12; elite, for high camps (1924), 483, 501, 523, 526; first failed campaign and (1924), 501–10, 511; Kellas’s reliance on, 78–9, 80, 83, 140; killed by avalanche (1922), xv, 3, 443–6, 450–3, 483, 504; motivations of Everest climbers as viewed by, 500; stranded on North Col (1924), 518–22

  Sherriff, R. C., 194

  Shigatse, Tibet, 48, 64, 108

  Shiling, Tibet, 224, 364, 401, 402, 496

  Shipki La, 67

  Shipton, Eric, 564, 566

  Shiva, 66

  Shuckburgh, J. E. (John), 124, 131–2

  Shung Chu, 268

  Siebe Gorman, 386–7, 478, 487

  Sikhdar, Radhanath, 45

  Sikhs, 46, 55, 56, 72, 295

  Sikkim, 47, 49, 53, 55, 76, 80, 83, 112, 114, 116, 203, 206, 207, 212, 214, 216, 236, 248, 364, 382, 563; British annexation of, 52; Raeburn invalided to, 234, 236, 259–60, 310, 364, 370

  Sikkim, maharaja of, 123, 340, 563

  S. W. Silver & Co., 386

  Simla, India, 50, 67, 204; Howard-Bury’s mission to, 111–14

  Sim
la Convention (1914), 121–2

  Simonson, Eric, 567, 569

  Singh, Gujjar, 226–8, 260, 286, 304, 363

  Singh, Nain, 49–50

  Sinha, Lord, 110, 111

  sky burial, 59, 116, 248, 270, 455

  Slingsby, Hilton Laurence, 6

  Smith, Rev. J. H., 39

  Smith, W. H., 157

  smoking, Finch’s belief in beneficial effect of, 431–2

  Smythe, Frank, 471–2, 474, 564

  snow blindness, 308; Norton afflicted with, xvi, 534, 535–6, 538, 539, 540

  “Soldier, The” (Brooke), 188

  Solly, Godfrey, 39

  Solu Khumbu, 78, 204, 249, 255, 257, 271, 409

  Somers-Cock, Edward, 126, 456

  Somervell, Howard, 19–21, 380–2, 403, 409, 410, 412, 437, 450, 456, 458, 470, 481, 485, 488, 493, 526, 552, 561, 567, 569; climbing ability of, 380, 381; configuration of climbing parties and, 495, 512, 517, 525, 527; council of May 26, 1924, and, 523–5; family background of, 19; filling in as medical officer for 1924 expedition, 491, 492; in final campaign of 1924 expedition, xv–xvi, 527–8, 530–7, 538, 539, 543, 546, 550, 551, 557; Finch’s assessment of, 390; first failed campaign and, 505–6, 507, 508, 509, 512; frostbitten airways of, 536; Graham’s dismissal and, 473; on Hazard’s temperament, 512; hemoglobin tests conducted by, 502; Irvine’s appeal to, 478–9; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1922), 395, 396–7, 398–9, 400–1, 407–8; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp (1924), 486, 490, 491, 492, 493, 496, 497; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 551, 556; as medical officer in war, 17, 19, 20–1, 22, 31, 32, 381, 396, 478–9; medical practice in India of, 382, 449; passed over for 1921 expedition, 153; personality and demeanor of, 380; religious beliefs of, 19–20, 21, 380, 381, 416; ruling on fitness of, for third summit assault (1922), 438, 439; score for Noel’s film Climbing Mount Everest written by, 449, 471; second failed campaign and (1924), 514, 517, 518, 519–21, 522; selection of 1922 team and, 371; selection of 1924 team and, 461–2, 471–2; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443, 444–5, 446, 452–3; summit attempt of (May 1922), 413–16, 417–28, 437, 438, 533; summit attempt of (June 1922), 438, 439, 441–6, 451–3; summit attempt of (1924), xv–xvi, 530–7, 543, 557; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 388; in years after expedition, 382, 449, 458

  Somervell, Leslie, 3

  Somme offensive (1916), 23–37, 92, 96, 106, 128, 187, 195, 196, 211, 381, 396, 478; as biggest disaster in history of British arms, 31; British infantry attack in, 29–31, 35–6; British mortars and mines in, 35, 191; communications inadequacies in, 24, 35–6; documentary film on, 383–4; German defenses and, 27–8, 29, 34–5; German machine gun fire in, 28, 30, 31, 36; Haig’s plan for, 23–4, 25–6, 27, 29, 30, 36; heavy casualties at, 24, 30–1, 36–7; Howard-Bury’s description of battlefield in, 104–5; Mallory’s experiences in, 190–3; Morris’s experiences in, 374–5; Newfoundland Regiment in, 28, 33–6, 381; newspaper reports on, 33; Odell’s experiences in, 475; preliminary bombardment in, 24, 25, 26–7, 29, 30, 35, 36, 191; quality of British troops and, 24–5; tending to wounded in, 31–4, 381

  Sorley, Charles, 89

  Soviet Union, 210, 448, 454. See also Russia, Russian Empire

  Spencer, Sydney, 130, 148, 461, 462, 472, 473, 556, 557, 560

  Spender, Stephen, 201

  Sphere, 556

  Spinchilla Narai, 376

  Spirt of Man, The (Bridges, editor), 94, 416, 492, 507, 560

  Spitsbergen, 371, 475, 477, 478

  Spring Offensive of 1918, 91, 106–7, 195–6

  Stead, W. T., 172

  Stephen, Adrian, 185, 186

  Stephen, Leslie, 176

  Stephen, Virginia, 185

  Strachey, Alix Sargant-Florence, 200

  Strachey, James, 173, 174, 182, 200; Mallory’s relationship with, 175–6, 177, 180–1, 183

  Strachey, Lytton, 163, 173, 174, 176, 180, 182, 183, 186

  Strutt, Edward Lisle (Bill), 371, 377, 379–80, 381, 386, 388, 389, 453, 458, 462, 470, 480, 560; advanced camps and, 408, 411, 412, 416, 417, 418; Austrian royal family rescued by, 380; evacuated to Darjeeling, 440–1, 446, 450; Finch’s assessment of, 390; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 395, 402, 407–8; Mallory’s opinion of, 380; personality and demeanor of, 379; return home of (1922), 450; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 450–1, 456; summit attempts and, 417–18, 419, 426, 427, 428, 438, 440; Tibet and Tibetans disliked by, 397; wartime experiences of, 379

  Stubendorff Mountains, 477

  stupas, 243, 261–2, 272

  Sudan, 137, 166

  Sunday Pictorial, 95

  Sunlight Soap, 158

  Sun Yat-sen, 48, 120

  Survey of India, 43–6, 126, 154, 204, 206–10, 229, 458, 557; curvature of globe and, 43–4; mapping of Himalaya and, 44–6, 86, 206–8, 209–10, 264–6, 365–7 (see also Everest expedition of 1921—survey missions of); naming of mountains and, 45–6; new photographic methodology adopted by, 264, 265–6; 1924 expedition and, 470; Tibetan suspicions about, 366–7, 389, 395; traditional field techniques of, 264–5; without formal role in 1922 expedition, 367, 389

  Sutlej, 66, 67

  Swiss guides, 70, 74

  Sykes, Sir Frederick, 110

  Tamding, 508–9

  Tang dynasty, 252

  Tang La, 56, 60, 68, 224, 225, 398

  Taoism, 103–4

  Tasang, Tibet, 268, 269, 323

  Tashi Dzong, 303

  Tashi Lhumpo monastery, Shigatse, Tibet, 48, 64

  Tashirak River, 82, 83, 382

  Tashishong, Tibet, 321

  Tatsang, Tibet, 226, 227, 399, 489

  Taylor, A. J. P., 96

  tea, Tibetan, 220, 239, 405, 447

  Teesta River, Teesta Valley, 55, 80, 81, 123, 206, 207, 213, 363, 364, 394

  Tejbir Bura, 428–33, 435, 437, 441, 481, 501

  Temba, 445, 552

  Tenchadder, 492

  Teng, monastery at, 447

  Tengboche, 272

  Tennyson, Alfred, Lord, 8

  Tenzing Norgay, 277, 282, 370, 565

  Thankay, 445, 552

  Thapa, Hari Singh, 470, 557

  Thompson, Charles Eric, 456

  Thompson, Harold, 187

  Thompson, Rupert, 288–9

  Thong La, 320

  Tibet, 47–53; access to Everest through, 74, 75, 86, 100, 108, 109, 111–13, 123–4, 125, 160, 366, 382, 440, 457, 564; arms and ammunition shipments to, 111–12, 113, 115, 121–2, 123, 124, 440; British relations with, 48, 49, 51, 52–3, 55–61, 101, 111–13, 114, 118–24; Buddhism’s early history in, 246, 252–4; as buffer between Raj and Russia, 51; character of ethnic Tibetans and, 73; Chinese invasion of (1905–10), 75, 119–20; Chinese relations with, 48, 49, 53, 59, 75, 113, 115, 116, 118–22, 252, 255, 564, 565; complaints about behavior of 1921 expedition in, 366–8, 389, 395; currency issues and, 486; customs and rituals in, 59, 116, 247–8, 270, 402, 446–7, 455; gift customs in, 222; governance in, 48; history of, 47–8; Howard-Bury’s unsanctioned travels in, 103; Indian surveyors in, 49–50; invasion of (Younghusband Mission of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247; mysticism and, 247–8; mystique of, 48, 60–2, 248, 254; natural resources of, 85; Noel’s exploration of, 81–3; Noel’s The Epic of Everest and, 562–4; prohibition of killing of wildlife in, 269–70, 366, 367, 406; Rawling expedition in, 63, 64–7; Russian relations with, 52–3, 57, 60; sacred sites in, 66–7, 112, 252, 253–4, 258, 259, 261–2, 264, 268, 269–73, 299–302, 304, 305, 321–2, 323; Simla Convention of 1914 and, 121–2; social conditions in, 49, 247, 248; social reforms and modernization in, 120–1, 122; sounds of, 396–7, 471, 562

  Tibetan Book of the Dead, The, 247

  Tibet the Mysterious (Holdich), 85–6

  Tien Shan, 103–4

  Times (London), 33, 54, 59, 60, 89, 92, 94, 95, 98, 188, 193, 248, 353, 454; articles on 1924 expedition in, 479, 480; Bruce interviewed by, 454–5; Bruce’s report
s to, 408, 437, 451; exclusivity agreement with, 158, 159, 459; Howard-Bury’s reports to, 248, 353, 364–5; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 555–6, 557–8; Mallory’s article on avalanche disaster in, 453, 454; Mallory’s last public pronouncement in, 525; Norton’s dispatches in, 506; RGS financial scandal and, 456

  Tingri, Tibet (Tingri Dzong), 271; as base for first phase of reconnaissance, 208, 254–60, 280, 285, 286, 291, 293, 303–6, 307, 320; Buddhist origins of, 252; description of, 254–5, 303–4; lodgings for British in, 255–6; Mallory, Bullock, and Wollaston’s arrivals in, 259–60; 1921 expedition’s route to, 208, 223, 224, 234, 236, 245, 250, 251, 257, 298, 402, 448

  Tingri Plain, 64, 65–6, 263, 303, 305, 306

  Tinki Dzong, Tibet, 236–7, 238, 396, 397, 493, 494

  Ti Rinpoche, 61–2

  Tissandier, Gaston, 125–6

  Tomlinson, H. M., 107

  Tongsa Penlop, 59

  Trangso Chumbab, Tibet, 243

  Trevelyan, George, 5–6, 94, 170, 174, 467

  Treves, Sir Frederick, 20

  Trisong Detsän, King, 252

  Trisul, 452

  Trulshik Rinpoche, 271

  Tsakor, Tibet, 250

  Tsamda, hot springs at, 305

  Tsangpo River and Gorge, 207, 257, 263, 305; Kinthup mission and, 50, 209; Morshead’s exploration of, 209–10, 258; Rawling expedition and, 63, 64–7, 75, 210, 258

  Tsarong Shapé, 563

  Tsibri, 305

  Tsong-du (National Assembly of Tibet), 48

  Tuna, Tibet, 57, 225, 489

  Turkey, 232. See also Gallipoli campaign

  Turkistan, 49, 51

  Turner, Ruth. See Mallory, Ruth Turner

  Turner, Thackeray, 184, 458, 466, 467

  Uchung, 520

  Ugyen, 267

  Umar Gurung, 481, 503

  United States: Mallory’s lecture tour in, 464–6; in World War I, 106, 196

  University Club (New York), 466

  Unna, P. J. H., 147

  untouchables, 73

  Uppingham, 187

  Vankinsburgh, F., 128

  Vatican, 480

  Verdun, battle of (1916), 97

  Versailles Treaty (1919), 200, 380

  Victoria, Queen, 41, 42, 47

  Victorian England, 174

  Wager, Bill, 564, 566

  Wakefield, Arthur (known as Waker and Archdeacon), 3, 4–5, 13–15, 153, 370–1, 381, 389, 445, 448, 456, 458, 470; climbing ability of, 381, 439–40, 452; Crawford accidentally overdosed by, 435–6; decommissioning and return to Canada of, 37, 153; depression and nervous anxiety suffered by, 381; duties of expedition medical officer performed by, 381, 399, 408, 412, 428, 435–6, 439, 440; Finch’s assessment of, 390; at FRCC memorial ceremony, 3, 4–5, 38, 39; harsh judgments of, 381; journey of, from Darjeeling to base camp, 394–5, 396, 398–9, 400–1, 407–8; Longstaff evacuated by, 413, 414; as medical officer in war, 16–17, 21–3, 26, 28, 31–2, 33–4, 37–8, 381; in Newfoundland and Labrador, 13–14; porters escorted to advanced camps by, 411, 416; selection of 1921 team and, 153, 370–1; Sherpas’ death in avalanche and, 443–4, 446; Somme offensive and, 26, 28, 31–2, 33–4, 381; summit attempts and, 418, 419, 426, 427, 435–6, 439–40, 441, 442, 452; supplemental oxygen and, 385, 388