Cumin, Camels, and Caravans
Page 38
22. Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe, The True History of Chocolate (London: Thames and Hudson, 2006), 216–17.
23. Diana Kennedy, Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy (Austin: University of Texas Press, 2010), 50, 151, 243; and Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless and Jean Marie Robinson, Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen: Capturing the Vibrant Flavors of a World-Class Cuisine (New York: Scribner’s, 2006), 276–84.
24. Camilo Alvarez de Morales, “Medicina y alimentación: Andaluces y Moriscos,” in Al-Andalus Allende el Atlantico, ed. Mercedes Garcia-Arenal et al. (Granada, Spain: El Legado Andalusi, 1997).
25. Adapted from Ricardo Trujillo, “Mexican Mole Poblano: A Culinary Clash of Cultures,” Articles Base, May 5, 2008, www.articlesbase.com/food-and-beverage-articles/mexican-mole-poblano-a-culinary-clash-of-cultures-404435.html, accessed March 4, 2013. See also Aliza Green, Field Guide to Herbs and Spices (New York: Quirk Books, 2006).
EPILOGUE
1. Woody Tasch, Inquiries into the Nature of Slow Money (White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2008), 3–4.
2. Amanda Hesser interview with Carlo Petrini, “Endangered Species: Slow Food,” New York Times, July 26, 2003, www.mindfully.org/Food/2003/Slow-Food-Carlo-Petrini26July03.htm.
Index
Page numbers in bold refer to text boxes.
Abbasid and Andalusian Dipping Sauce (Sibāgh), 189
Abbasids, 159–60, 163, 174, 175, 212
Abd al-Muttalib, 111
Abd al-Rahman I, 159, 162–63, 166–69
Abd al-Rahman II, 174
Abd al-Rahman III, 178
Abu al-Hasan ‘Ali ibn Nafi. See Ziryab
Abu al-Nasr Mansur, 174
Abu Dhabi, 105–6
Abu Talib, 4, 111, 114
Abu Zacaria Iahia, 170–71
Abyssinia. See Ethiopia
achiote (annatto), 250map, 252–53, 255, 268
Aden, 33map, 58map, 64, 221, 222
Aframomum melegueta. See melegueta pepper
Africa: Arab and Chinese traders in, 221; Islam in, 123–31. See also specific places
African trade, 221, 231; Portuguese and, 126, 127, 231–36; trade routes and hubs, 33map. See also specific places
agarwood, 226–27
agricultural literature, 170–71, 191
Agricultura nabatea, 170
agriculture: Arabian Peninsula, 53–57; Islamic Spain, 169, 170–71, 174–75, 177; modern Israel, 74, 87–88; in Negev, 74, 76–79; technological diffusions, 93, 169; trade and, 44, 56, 68; under Umayyads, 155, 158. See also irrigation
Aguilera y Roche, Doña Teresa, 258
Ahmad Abu Bakar Nebhani, 241
Ahmad ibn Majid, 236
Aila, 73, 74
Akhbar Pate (Pate Island), 230, 241–42
Al-Azaf: The Omani Cookbook (Al Taie), 19–20, 31, 81, 96–97
Albius, Edmond, 261
Albuquerque, Afonso de, 240–41
Aleppo, 15, 132, 142–43map, 182, 184, 192, 247
Aleppo pepper, 20, 247
Alexander the Great, 135
Alexandria, 51, 58map, 142–43map, 204, 205; ancient traders and, 61, 64, 72, 92; Jews and Muslims in, 124, 125, 128, 132, 182, 184, 192
Alfonso XI, 185
Alhambra, 186
Alhambra Decree, 186–87
Ali Salem Bait Said, 26–27
Allen, James de Vere, 241
alligator pepper. See melegueta pepper
Allport, Gordon W., 244
allspice, 245, 250map, 255, 256–57, 259, 265
Al Maktoum, Mohammed bin Rashid, Sheikh, 106
almonds, 191, 265, 266; Dajaj Gdra Bil-Lawz (Spiced Chicken in Almond Sauce), 223–24
aloe wood, 182, 202
Al Taie, Lamees Abdullah (Al-Azaf: The Omani Cookbook), 19–20, 31, 81
Altai Mountains, 150–51
Álvarez Chanca, Diego, 246
amber musk, 150–51. See also musk
Americas. See New World entries; specific places and peoples
amomon, 54–55
Amomum subulatum, 54–55
Anasazi, 264
Anatolia, 142–43map
al-Andalus, 162, 166–71; after fall of Umayyads, 181–82; agricultural and culinary innovations in, 169, 170–71, 174–75, 177; Berber tribes in, 163, 175; Christians and Jews in, 163, 166, 169–70, 175, 177; convivencia’s decline, 184, 185–86; cultural pluralism in, 163, 169, 171, 174; eastern plant introductions, 167–69, 175, 177; Madinat al-Zahra, 177–80; Ziryab in, 171, 174–75. See also Iberia; Spain
Andalusia, author in, 161–62, 177–80. See also al-Andalus
Anderson, Eugene, A Soup for the Qan, 6, 7, 10
Andrade, Benjamin d’Acosta de, 262, 264
Andrews, Jean, 247
anise, 9, 98, 169, 177, 178–79, 179, 264, 265; trade routes, 58map, 142–43map
Anmir ud-Din, 209
annatto (achiote), 250map, 252–53, 255, 268
Anping Bridge, 199–200, 201fig.
Antwerp, 193–94
apricot, 169, 179, 202
Aquilaria malaccensis, 226
Arabian Nights, 146–47
Arabian Peninsula, 16–18, 33map, 58map; aromatics in, 17–18, 20–21; food and foraging, 42, 43; migration from, 20–21, 57–59, 93–94; oasis agriculture, 53–57; water storage and management in, 75. See also specific places and peoples
Arabian Sea, 33map. See also maritime trade; specific ports
Arabic alphabet and calligraphy, 69
Arabic language, 122–23
Arabic literature and poetry, 107–8, 146–47, 155; cookbooks, 145. See also Ka‘b ibn al-Ashraf
Arabs: as spice traders, 5, 13, 15, 274. See also Arabian Peninsula; specific peoples and places
Arab Seafaring in the Indian Ocean in Ancient and Early Medieval Times (Hourani), 48
arak, 9, 178
Arawak people, 259, 261
Arellano, Juan Estevan, 11, 170
aromatics, 3, 4, 19, 20–22, 23–24, 80, 84, 147–48. See also spice entries; specific spices and incenses
Ashab Mosque, 230
Ashurbanipal, 190
Asia: trade with, 94–95, 97–98, 100–102, 142–43map. See also specific places and peoples
Atencio, Tomás, 11
Avicenna, 117, 135
Aztecs, 249, 252, 260, 265
Bactrian camel, 147, 148. See also camel caravans
Bactrian people, 135, 148
Baghdad, Abbasid caliphate, 159–60, 174, 175
Bahamas, 243, 255
baharat, 272, 273
Bahira, 111
Bajuni people, 242
Balduccio Pegolotti, Francesco di, 24
al-Balid, 40–42, 41fig.
Bani Nabatu, 69
banking, 184. See also money lending
Banu al-Nadir, 118, 122. See also Ka‘b ibn al-Ashraf
Banu Hashim, 118
Banu Nebhani, 23, 47, 118, 140–41, 146–47; in Arabian Peninsula, 45–46, 52, 91, 93, 240–41; in Lamu Archipelago, 241–42
Banu Umayyah, 140. See also Umayyads
barbacoa, 264–65
Barbera, Giuseppe, 87
barley, 41–42
Basra, 33map, 98, 142–43map, 146, 184
Basson, Moshe, 85
Batmanglij, Najmieh, 81, 135
bay leaf, 203, 265
Bedigian, Dorothea, 99
Bedouins, 18, 38, 55, 61, 66–68, 75, 178; Bedouin cooking, 272. See also Quraysh; Tayy
bell peppers, 112
Benjamin of Tudela, 182–83
Berber tribes, 124, 125, 127; Abd al-Rahman I among, 162–63; Berbers in al-Andalus, 163, 175; Muslim expansion and, 126–29
Berenjena con Acelguilla (Sephardic Eggplant with Swiss Chard), 172–73
Bermejo de Triana, Juan Rodríguez (Rodrigo de Triana), 192, 243–44
Bernstein, William, 80, 183
Bethlehem: author’s visit, 85–88; story of the Magi, 88–89
Bible, 3, 26
Bixa orellana, 252. See also annatto
bizar a’shuwa, 18, 19, 20
black musk deer, 151
black pepper. See pepper
Boabdil, 186, 187fig.
Borhan al-Dīn Kazerūni, 205
Boswellia sacra. See frankincense tree
Boswellia serrata, 22
Bottéro, Jean, 272
Brooks, Andrée, 194
Brown, Cecil, 246
Buddhism, 228
Buell, Paul, A Soup for the Qan, 6, 7, 10
Bukhara, 134, 135, 142–43map, 147, 148, 200; Bukharan Jews, 135, 149, 154
Buñuelos (Deep-Fried Cardamom-Spiced Fritters Soaked in Saffron Syrup), 207–8
Butrón, Inés, 112–13
Cabral, Pedro Álvarez, 238
cacao, 245, 255, 258, 259fig., 263–64; trade and diffusion routes, 250map, 259, 262. See also chocolate
Caesar, Julius, 84
Café Siqueff, 253–54
caffeine, 263
Calicut, 33map, 142–43map, 221, 222, 236; da Gama in, 236–39, 237fig.
Callixenus of Rhodes, 60–61
camel caravans, 154fig.; Asian spice trade, 68, 95, 147–49, 150, 153, 228; disadvantages of, 95, 109; early Arab traders, 34–35, 40, 47, 60–61, 70, 95, 109
Camellia sinensis var. assamica, 228
camels, 34, 147, 148. See also camel caravans
camel’s breath tea, 95, 142–43map, 228–29
camphor, 147, 182, 194
Canary Islands, 11, 165, 176, 196, 245, 254
capers (Capparis spinosa), 85, 86–87, 169
Capsicum, 246. See also chile peppers
cardamom, 33map, 54–55, 202, 203, 207; Zalābiya / Shaqima / Buñuelos (Deep-Fried Cardamom-Spiced Fritters Soaked in Saffron Syrup), 207–8
Caribbean. See West Indies; specific islands
Carne de Cordero en la Olla (Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 6, 7–8
Carrillo Puerto, Felipe, 253–54
Carthage, 124, 125, 127–28, 129
cassia cinnamon, 65–67, 175, 191; traders and trade routes, 61, 65–66, 95, 142–43map, 182, 202
Castanheda, Fernão Lopes de, 236
Castaño de Sosa, Gaspar, 10
Castro, Américo, 14
Catholic inquisitions, 186–88, 196, 244–45, 254; in New World, 249, 251, 255, 258
Central America, 245, 246. See also New World entries
Central Asia, 153, 164, 214–15. See also Silk Roads entries; specific places and peoples
Ceuta, 58map, 130, 184, 186; Abd al-Rahman I in, 163, 166; chiles in, 246–47, 262
Ceylon (Sri Lanka), 52, 54, 156, 184, 221
Ceylon cinnamon, 23, 65, 72, 269. See also cinnamon
Chaco Canyon, 264
Chang, Yusuf, 227–28
Chang’an (Xi’an), 149
Charles II of England, 103
Charles V, 258
Chen Zuyi, 222
chicken: Dajaj Gdra Bil-Lawz (Spiced Chicken in Almond Sauce), 223–24; Pollo en Mole Verde de Pepita (Spiced Chicken in Green Pumpkin Seed Sauce), 266–67
chile peppers, 126, 191, 196, 246–48, 257, 264; in Latin American cooking, 165, 256, 265, 268; traders and trade routes, 245–49, 250map, 255, 258, 259, 262
China: Ispah Rebellion and its aftermath, 209–11, 212; Marco Polo’s visit, 38, 81, 97–98, 204–5; Muslims and Islam in, 6, 138–39, 149, 202, 204–6, 209–13, 216–17, 227–30; Western fashions and flavors in, 153
China trade, 103, 146, 199, 200, 214–15; early Sino-Arab trade, 72, 94–95, 97–98, 100–101; Karimi clan, 184; maritime trade, 95, 199, 200, 209, 214–15, 219–22, 224–25; Ming-era trade and China trade policy, 215–17, 219–22, 224–27, 229–30; Radhanites, 182; trade routes and hubs, 142–43map, 148–49. See also Zayton; Zheng He; other specific places and people
Chinese cooking, 157, 203, 235
Chinese date, 200
chocolate, 249, 252, 263–64; chocolate drinks, 256, 260, 263; in moles, 265, 268. See also cacao
Christians and Christianity, 130, 274; in al-Andalus, 163, 166, 169–70, 175; in China, 204, 206, 210; Christian-Muslim trade ban, 182, 184; Nabataean conversions, 83. See also conversos; moriscos
cilantro, 190. See also coriander
Cinnamomum cassia (C. aromaticum), 65. See also cassia cinnamon
cinnamon, 23, 54, 65, 203; ancient trade in, 72, 79, 84, 95; later trade in, 193, 194, 202; in New World, 264, 265. See also cassia cinnamon
Cisneros, Francisco Ximénez de, 187
cloves, 103, 104fig., 142–43map, 175, 191; in New World, 264, 265; trade in, 95, 103, 104fig., 193, 194, 202
Cochin, 33map, 142–43map, 182, 221, 222, 239
cochineal, 259
Coconut Rice, Fried Fish on a Bed of (Maqlay Samak), 96–97
coffee, 55, 67, 130
Colón, Cristóbal. See Columbus, Christopher
Columbian Exchange, 2, 102, 177, 196–97, 271; Old World spices in New World, 262, 264, 265, 268, 269. See also New World plants and spices; specific types
Columbus, Christopher, 2, 3, 192, 196, 232, 271; and allspice, 256; and chiles, 246, 248, 262; Muslims and Jews on Columbus’s expeditions, 192, 243–45, 247, 248
Comer, Douglas, 77
Comoros Islands, 261
Confucius, 156, 219
Constantinople, 185, 196
conversos: in Catholic Iberia, 187, 188, 192, 195–96, 243; Luis de Torres, 192; in New World, 10–11, 165, 243, 245
convivencia, 14, 169, 181, 184, 185–88
cookbooks, 145, 170–71, 175. See also specific authors and titles
copal, 22, 255
copper trade, 41–42
Córdoba, 12, 58map, 166, 167, 174, 180. See also al-Andalus
Córdoba, Pedro de, 258
coriander (cilantro) (Coriandrum sativum), 98, 175, 190–91, 203; in New World, 262, 264, 265; trade routes, 58map, 142–43map
corn (maize), 196
Correia, Gaspar, 238, 239
Cortés, Hernán, 10, 245, 260
Cota, Rodrigo, 172
cotton, 155
coumarin, 65
Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco (Wolfert), 7
Covilhã, Pêro da, 236
Crete, saffron on, 63
Crocus cartwrightianus, 62
Crocus sativus, 62–63. See also saffron
Crocus thomasii, 62–63
Crone, Patricia, 24
Crosby, Alfred, 177, 271
Cuba, 255
cubeb, 126, 194
culinary fusions and innovations, 275; Arab-Persian, 6, 145, 158, 223; in Islamic Spain, 169, 170–71, 174–75; Lebanese-Mayan, 252–54
culinary literature, 145, 170–71, 175; Mesopotamian recipe, 272–73. See also specific authors and titles
cultural imperialism, 13. See also globalization
cultural pluralism: in al-Andalus, 163, 169, 171, 174; Arab-Persian, during Caliphates, 144–45, 153–54, 159, 160; in Zayton (China), 206
cumin (Cuminum cyminum), 79, 98, 175, 194, 234–35; in New World, 265; trade routes, 58map, 142–43map
cuneiform tablets: recipes, 272; trade records, 41–42, 49
Curaçao, 249, 262
Curcuma domestica (C. longa). See turmeric
Curry, Green Lentil, with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices (Marak Minj), 19–20
Dajaj Gdra Bil-Lawz (Spiced Chicken in Almond Sauce), 223–24
Damascus, 111, 113–14, 139; under Abbasids, 159–60, 174; under Umayyads, 144, 146, 155, 158–59
Damascus apricot, 169, 179
Damascus rose, 33map, 116–17, 160, 179
dashi ren, 140, 200
date palm, 167, 168
dates, 53, 57, 169; Dates Kneaded with Locusts and Spices, 43–44
Davidson, Linda Kay, 172
Dávila, Diego Arias, 172
“The Dawn of the Homogenocene” (Mann), 2
De re rustica, 170
desert peoples, as traders, 30, 42, 44–45, 48�
�49, 55, 274. See also specific people
desert plants, 17–18
dhimmi, 95, 97, 274
Dhofar highlands, 16, 17–18, 20, 40, 50, 241; frankincense in, 22, 24–30
dhows, 40, 47, 48fig.
Dias, Bartholomeu, 232
Dilmun, 41
Diné (Navajo), 165, 176
Ding Hui, 205–6, 211–13, 230. See also Zheng He
Diodorus, 69
Diwan al-Kharaj, 141, 158
A Drizzle of Honey (Gitlitz and Davidson), 172
dromedary, 34, 148. See also camel entries
Dubai, 105–6
Dubai Ports World, 106
Dushanbe market, 133–34, 135, 137, 138fig.
Dutch spice trade, 103
eagle-wood, 226–27
ecological imperialism, 2, 271, 274
economic imperialism, 210, 274
eggplant, 171; Berenjena con Acelguilla (Sephardic Eggplant with Swiss Chard), 172–73
Egypt, 58map; author in, 60–61, 64, 66–68; frankincense in, 35; Islam in, 125, 128; Jews in, 124; Minaean traders in, 51, 60–61; Nabataean trade with, 68; sesame in, 99. See also Alexandria; Sinai
elephant tree, 22
Elettaria cardamomum. See cardamom
Empty Quarter (Rub‘ al-Khali), 18, 33map, 51, 59, 77, 92
Eryngium foetidum, 191
Esquivel, Laura, Like Water for Chocolate, 165
Essaouira, 131–32
Ethiopia, 109, 124, 130, 234; traditional spice exchanges, 37, 39–40
Eugenia caryophyllus. See cloves
Euglossa bees, 260, 261
Farah, Mohamud Haji, 27, 29
farming. See agriculture
Fei Xin, 226–27
fennel, 43, 50, 56, 202, 203
fenugreek, 39, 202
Ferdinand II, 186–87, 188, 196, 197, 243
Fernández-Armesto, Felipe, 2, 232, 271
Fernández de Oviedo, González, 244 figs, 169
Fish, Fried, on a Bed of Coconut Rice (Maqlay Samak), 96–97
five-spice powder, 203, 217
food availability and security, 42, 44, 77, 122; trade as economic strategy, 30, 42, 44–45, 55
1492: The Year Our World Began (Fernández-Armesto), 2
frankincense, 20–36, 26–27, 72, 89; grades and quality, 21–22, 26, 33–34; harvest methods and rituals, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26–27, 29; Marak Minj (Green Lentil Curry with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices), 19–20; uses of, 22–23, 25, 26, 27, 34; value of, 21–23, 25, 26–27, 30, 33–34, 72
frankincense trade, 30, 34–35, 202; Minaeans, 50–51, 56, 61; Nabataeans, 71–73, 79, 80; trade routes and hubs, 33map, 91–92, 107, 109