Cumin, Camels, and Caravans

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Cumin, Camels, and Caravans Page 39

by Nabhan, Gary Paul

frankincense tree (Boswellia sacra), 21, 22, 26–27, 28fig., 29–30; grove management, 25–27, 29; habitat, 16–18, 20–21, 25

  fried pastries, 207; Zalābiya / Shaqima / Buñuelos (Deep-Fried Cardamom-Spiced Fritters Soaked in Saffron Syrup), 207–8

  Fujian, 205, 211–13. See also Quanzhou; Zayton

  Gama, Paulo da, 232, 237

  Gama, Vasco da, 231–39, 271; in Africa, 233–36; in India, 233–39, 237fig.; tomb of, 239–40

  Gambrelle, Fabienne, 63

  Gandapor, 88–89

  Gansu Corridor, 150, 151, 153, 216. See also Gobi Desert

  Gaozong (Tang Emperor), 139, 204

  garam masala, 126, 191, 203, 235

  garbanzo beans: Harira / Carne de Cordero en la Olla (Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 6, 7–8; Nabātiyyāt (Nabataean Chicken, Pasta, and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 81–83

  garlic, 175, 191, 265, 268

  Gaza, 60, 61, 71, 72, 79, 132

  Gazpacho al-Andalus (Tharīd), 112–13

  Gedi, 241

  Gibraltar, 130, 163, 182, 185, 262

  ginger, 156–57, 175, 191, 193, 194, 202; Marak Minj (Green Lentil Curry with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices), 19–20; in spice mixtures, 157, 203; trade routes, 142–43map

  Gitlitz, David, 172

  Glencore International, 77

  globalization, 13, 105–6, 122–23, 275–76; spice trade and, 4, 21, 89, 271, 274–76

  goat, 42, 57; Prehistoric Mansaf (Kid and Lamb Stew with Yogurt, Root Crops, and Herbs), 272–73

  Gobi Desert, 147, 148, 153, 155, 158

  grains and grain trade, 41–42, 56–57, 77–80, 81

  grains of paradise. See melegueta pepper

  Granada, 161–62, 165, 185; Catholic reconquest, 186, 187, 187fig., 245

  grasshoppers, 43

  Greece, ancient, spices in, 84, 94

  Grenville, Charles, 261

  Gresik, 220, 222, 224

  Gudaphar, 88–89

  guilds, 181–82; Karimi, 181, 183–85; Radhanites, 103, 181–83

  Guinea grains. See melegueta pepper

  Gujaratis, 93, 98; Kanji Malam and da Gama, 235–36

  Gulf of Hormuz, 221

  Guyana, 259

  al-Hadr tribes, 55, 56fig., 93

  al-Hakam I, 174

  Halliburton, 106, 210

  halvah, 100–101

  al-Hamal bin Májid, 146–47

  harira, 7, 56–57, 69, 70fig., 81; Harira (Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 6, 7–8

  Hārūn al-Rashīd, 175

  Hasan ibn al Nu’man al-Ghassani, 128, 129

  Hay, John, 275

  Hernández, Francisco, 260

  Herodotus, 17, 66–67, 72

  Herrera, Gabriel Alonso de, 170–71

  Heschel, Abraham Joshua, 49

  Hieronymus of Cardia, 68

  Hill, Tony, 43, 44

  Hinde, Chris, 77

  Hispaniola, 2, 246

  hojari fusoos frankincense, 22, 32–33

  Hong Bao, 222, 229

  Hongwu Emperor, 227–28

  Hordes, Stanley, 11

  Hourani, Albert, 57

  Hourani, Cecil, 272

  Hourani, George Fadlo, 47–48

  House of Mendes, 193–94, 195–97

  Hulumosi, 221

  Hu Szu-hui, 6

  Iberia, 161–80; Abd al-Rahman’s arrival, 163, 166; House of Mendes, 193–94, 195–97; Muslim and Jewish expulsion and emigration, 186–88, 192–93, 196, 232, 244–45, 247, 254–55; Radhanite and Karimi merchants in, 181–85. See also al-Andalus; Catholic inquisitions; Portugal; Spain

  Ibn Battuta, 40, 98, 200, 206, 276

  Ibn Said al-Maghribi, 167

  Ibn Sayyār al-Warrāq, 43, 80

  Ibn Shabba, 120

  Ibn Sīnā (Avicenna), 117, 135

  Iddao Ishaak, 124

  Igbos, 124

  Illicium verum, 203. See also star anise

  incenses and incense trade, 24, 31, 80, 84. See also aromatics; frankincense; other specific types

  India: ancient Arab trade with, 64, 66, 91, 96; Central Asian trade with, 146, 147; chiles in, 247; cloves in, 103; da Gama in, 233–39, 237fig.; ginger in, 156; Mendes family trade with, 193; native spices, 54, 72, 81, 87, 99; Portuguese and, 232, 240–41; saffron in, 63; trade routes and hubs, 142–43map; Zheng He and his fleet in, 221, 222, 230. See also specific places

  Indian cooking, 203, 235, 257

  Indian Ocean. See Arabian Sea; maritime trade; specific ports and islands

  indigo, 50

  Indonesia, 52, 109, 222, 224–27, 230. See also specific cities and islands

  Iran: saffron in, 63. See also Persia

  Iraq. See Baghdad; Mesopotamia

  irrigation, 52, 54–56, 56fig.; diffusion of irrigated agriculture, 93, 155, 158; Nabataean water management, 75–76, 78–79. See also agriculture

  Isaac of Mosul, 174

  Isabella I, 186–87, 188, 196, 197, 243

  Ishafran, 209–10, 218

  Islam, 274; Abbasids and, 159; in Africa, 123–31; Arabic language and, 122–23; in Central Asia, 138–40, 149; in China, 138, 149, 204, 212, 230; during Muhammad’s lifetime, 116–19; early expansion of, 122–30, 138–40; economic power and precepts, 116–18, 122, 140, 141–42, 231–32; in Europe, 192; Nabataean adoption of, 83; Portuguese colonialism and, 231–32; in Southeast Asia, 214, 222, 224; tax levied on non-Muslims, 95, 97, 121–22; trade and, 116–18, 119–20, 121–22. See also al-Andalus; Muhammad; Muslim entries; Qur’an; religious tolerance

  Ispah Rebellion, 209–11, 212

  Jabal al-Tariq (Gibraltar), 130, 163, 182, 185, 262

  Jabal Samhan, 16, 18, 24–25, 29. See also Dhofar highlands; frankincense

  Jamaica, 255, 256, 258–59, 261

  Jamaican cooking, 257

  Jamaica pepper. See allspice

  Japanese cooking, ginger in, 157

  Jaramillo, Cleofas, 6, 7, 10, 11–12

  Jauhar al-Faqih, 238

  Java, 220–21, 222, 224, 230

  Jerusalem, 14, 15, 58map; author’s visit, 84–85; Nabataean traders and, 61, 69, 72

  Jews and Jewish traders: in Africa, 38, 124–30, 131–32; in al-Andalus, 163, 166, 169–70, 175, 177; in China, 202, 204, 206, 210; Iberian expulsion and emigration, 186–88, 192–93, 196, 232, 244–45, 247, 254–55; Mendes trading clan, 193–94, 195–97; moneylenders, 118, 184; in New World, 10–13, 165, 207, 244–45, 248, 251, 254–55; and New World spice trade, 245, 248–49, 254–55, 258–59, 269; poets, 118, 172; in pre-Islamic Oman, 91; Radhanites, 103, 181–83. See also Judaism; religious tolerance; specific people

  João, king of Portugal, 193

  John III of Portugal, 239

  Judaism, 80, 91, 92, 274

  Jumbaboy, 133, 135

  Ka‘b ibn al-Ashraf, 109, 111, 118–21

  al-Kāhinat, 126–27, 127–28

  Kanji Malam, 235–36

  Karimi merchant guild, 181, 183–85

  Katzer, Gernot, 54

  Kelley, Laura, 272

  Kennedy, Diana, 266

  Kenya. See Lamu Archipelago; Malindi; Mombasa

  Khadijah, 4, 114–15, 122, 130

  Khaled ibn Yazid, 128, 129

  Al-Khanjari, Sulaiman, 45–46, 90–91

  Kid and Lamb Stew with Yogurt, Root Crops, and Herbs (Prehistoric Mansaf), 272–73

  King, Anya, 151

  Kitāb al-Filāḥa (Libro de agricultura), 170–71

  Krondl, Michael, 193–94

  Kusaila, 128

  lamb, 11; Harira / Carne de Cordero en la Olla (Lamb and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 6, 7–8; Prehistoric Mansaf (Kid and Lamb Stew with Yogurt, Root Crops, and Herbs), 272–73

  Lamu Archipelago, 58map, 89, 242; Akhbar Pate (Pate Island), 230, 241–42; Arab traders in, 91, 102, 130, 241; Zheng He’s fleet in, 221, 230

  Landa Calderón, Diego de, 251

  Land of Bridges, 198–99

  language ability, trade and, 50, 83, 94

  Latin American cooking: Arab-Persian culinary techniques in
, 145; barbacoa, 264–65; chiles in, 246; Old World spices in, 67, 87, 165, 179, 264, 265, 268, 269. See also moles

  L’Écluse, Charles, 246

  Lentil Curry with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices (Marak Minj), 19–20

  Levathes, Louise, 231

  Libro de agricultura (Kitāb al-Filāḥa), 170–71

  Libya, 127, 128, 132

  Like Water for Chocolate (Esquivel), 165

  Lingshan Tombs, 204

  Lisbon, 194–95; author’s visit, 239–40; da Gama’s tomb, 239–40; House of Mendes, 193–94, 195–97

  Locusts and Spices, Dates Kneaded with, 43–44

  long pepper, 81, 202

  Lopez, Aaron, 264

  loukoumia (Turkish delight), 9–10, 117

  Luna, Beatrice de (Gracia Nasi), 193–94, 195–97, 276

  Luoyang Bridge, 201

  Ma (Ming Empress), 227–28

  mace, 95, 103, 175, 194

  Madagascar, 91, 94, 104, 130, 184, 221, 261

  Madhíyah, 146–47

  Madinat al-Zahra, 177–80

  Magan, 41, 91, 92–93

  Maghreb. See North Africa; specific countries and cities

  Magi, 88–89

  Ma He. See Zheng He

  Ma Huan, 219, 221, 222, 227–28

  maize, 196

  Malabar Coast, 5, 142–43map; Arab and Muslim traders and, 52, 94, 98, 214, 230, 236–38; native spices, 38, 99; New World products and, 247, 262

  Malacca, 221, 222, 236, 241

  Malacca, Strait of, 102, 142–43map, 222, 226

  Malaysia, 94, 98, 222, 227

  Malindi, 221, 222, 233, 241; da Gama in, 233–36

  Mann, Charles C., 2, 271

  Mansaf, Prehistoric (Kid and Lamb Stew with Yogurt, Root Crops, and Herbs), 272–73

  Manuel I of Portugal, 232, 238, 239

  Maqlay Samak (Fried Fish on a Bed of Coconut Rice), 96–97

  Maqqari, Ahmed ibn Mohammed, 167

  Marakanda, 135. See also Samarkand

  Marak Minj (Green Lentil Curry with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices), 19–20

  Ma’rib oasis and dam, 33map, 53–57, 93

  Marignolli, Giovanni de, 206

  maritime navigation, 34, 47, 93, 94, 102; da Gama’s Gujarati navigator, 235–36; Zheng He’s charts, 220

  maritime trade: advantages of, 95, 109; with China, 95, 199, 200, 209, 214–15, 224–25; Chinese traders, 100–101, 219–22, 224–27, 230; control of Gibraltar, 185; earliest Arab traders, 40, 41–42, 47–50, 48fig., 52, 64, 102; early written records, 41–42, 49, 91, 97–98; Indian Ocean crossings, 102; Karimi and, 184; Nabataean, 68–69, 70; piracy, 68–69, 92, 214–15, 222, 270; Portuguese, 126, 231–39; South Asian traders, 220

  markets and marketplaces, 15; Córdoba, 180; Damascus, 111, 113–14; Ethiopia, 37, 39–40; Jerusalem, 15, 84–85; Lisbon, 240; Ma Huan’s assessments of, 221; Mérida, 251–52; Muhammad’s Yathrib market, 119–20; Muslim expansion and, 123–24; Oman, 30, 31, 32–33, 45–47, 52–53; Tajikistan, 133–34, 135, 137, 138fig.; Ukaz (Mecca), 108

  marranos, 188. See also converses Marsh Arabs, 139, 140

  Marwan (Palestinian seed trader), 85–88

  Marwan II, 159

  mastic, 6, 7, 9–10, 58map, 109

  Mayans, 251; foods and cooking, 252, 253, 256. See also Latin American cooking; moles

  Mecca, 33map, 58map; Muhammad’s expulsion from, 118; as trade hub, 94, 106–9; Zheng He’s hajj, 222, 228–29. See also Quraysh tribes and traders

  medicinal uses: camels’ milk, 34; coriander, 190; frankincense, 23, 27, 34; musk, 150

  Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World (Zaouali), 81. See also Zaouali, Lilia

  Medina (Yathrib), 33map, 51, 58map, 79, 91, 107, 109; Muhammad in, 118, 119–20

  melegueta pepper, 125, 126–27, 191, 247; trade routes, 58map, 184

  Mencius, 219

  Mendes, Diogo, 194

  Mendes, Francisco, 193–94

  Mendes clan, 193–94, 195–97

  Menocal, María Rosa, 166–67

  Menzies, Gavin, 215

  merchant cultures: emergence of, 49–50. See also specific peoples

  Mérida (Mexico), 249, 250map, 251–54, 255

  Mesopotamia: ancient texts and trade, 41–42, 272–73; Islam in, 138, 139; Marsh Arabs, 139, 140. See also specific cities

  Mexican cooking. See Latin American cooking

  Mexico, 250map; cacao in, 263; chiles in, 246; Inquisition in, 249, 251, 255, 258; Jews and Muslims in, 244, 245, 249, 251, 261, 269; pre-Columbian trade in, 30, 249, 258, 260; trade routes and hubs, 250map, 255; vanilla in, 260, 261. See also New World entries; specific places and peoples

  Michalopoulos, Stelios, 122

  Middle Eastern cooking, 87, 94, 165, 172, 235, 257, 272; Arab-Persian culinary techniques in, 145

  Miksicek, Charles, 263

  Minaeans, 26–27, 50–52, 55–59, 60–61, 64, 70, 274

  Miranda, Cristóbal de, 249

  Mīrī (ship), 238–39

  moles, 223, 265, 266, 268–69; Pollo en Mole Verde de Pepita (Spiced Chicken in Green Pumpkin Seed Sauce), 266–67

  Moluccas, 41, 94, 103, 134, 142–43map, 221, 244

  Mombasa, 222, 233, 241

  money lending, 118, 119, 141, 144, 184; by House of Mendes, 194, 195

  Mongolia, 5–6, 7, 150, 151, 153, 154fig., 272. See also Gansu Corridor; Gobi Desert

  Mongols, 147, 227

  moriscos, 188, 192. See also Rodrigo de Triana

  Moroccan cooking, 7, 117, 246–47

  Morocco, 162–63, 186; Moroccan Jews, 131–32. See also specific cities Moschus spp. (musk deer), 150–51

  Moya de Contreras, Pedro, 258

  Mu‘awiya ibn Abī Sufyān, 158

  Muhammad, 109, 111, 114–18, 130, 152; and Ka‘b, 119–21; and Khadijah, 114–15; as trader, 4, 111, 114, 115, 116

  Muhammad bin Abd al-Rahman b. Ishmail al-Jaziri, 184–85

  Muhammad bin Hasan al-Baghdadi, 207

  multilingualism, trade and, 50, 83, 94

  Muscat, 33map, 45–47, 58map, 92, 98, 142–43map, 241

  musk, 24, 142–43map, 147, 149, 150–52, 158, 182, 222

  musk deer, 150–51

  Muslims and Muslim traders: in China, 6, 138–39, 149, 202, 204–6, 209–13, 216–17, 227–30; Christian-Muslim trade ban, 182, 184; Iberian expulsion and emigration, 186–88, 192–93, 196, 232, 244–45, 247, 254–55; in India, 236, 238–39; Karimi guild, 160, 181, 183–85; in New World, 10–13, 244–45, 248, 251, 254–55; and New World spice trade, 245, 248–49, 255, 258–59, 262, 264–65, 269. See also al-Andalus; Islam; specific individuals

  myrrh, 21, 33map, 109, 202; ancient trade in, 33, 50, 56, 61, 72, 89

  Nabataeans, 5, 24, 52, 68–73, 274; as agriculturists, 68, 76–80; as raiders, 68–69, 70; religious beliefs, 80, 83; as traders, 27, 68–69, 71–73, 76–80, 83–84; writing of, 69, 75–76, 83

  Nabātiyyāt (Nabataean Chicken, Pasta, and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 81–83

  Nasi, Gracia, 193–94, 195–97, 276

  Native Americans, 165, 176. See also specific peoples

  Naturalis Historiae. See Pliny the Elder

  Navajo, 165, 176

  navigation skills. See maritime navigation

  Nebhan, Mr. (Omani merchant), 45–47

  Negev, Nabataeans in, 74–79

  Negus, King, 130

  nejd, 18, 20, 25

  New Mexico, 6, 7, 10–13, 207, 249, 264

  New Mexico Tasty Recipes (Jaramillo), 6, 7

  newspice. See allspice

  New World, 243–69, 250map; Columbus’s “discovery,” 243–45; indigenous trade networks, 249, 261, 264; Jews and Muslims in, 244–45, 248–49, 251, 254–55, 258–59, 262, 264–65, 269; Old World spices in, 179, 262, 264, 265, 268, 269; slave trade, 249, 251, 262. See also Columbus, Christopher; specific peoples and places

  New World plants and spices: indigenous processing techniques, 258, 259; trade in, 196–97, 245, 248–49, 254–55, 258–59, 269, 274; trade rou
tes and hubs, 250map, 255, 261. See also Columbian Exchange; specific types

  nightshades, 171. See also specific plants Nizwa, 52–53

  North Africa: Abd al-Rahman I in, 162–63; Jewish and Muslim immigration from Iberia, 186, 192–93; Jews in, 124–27, 131–32, 192–93; trade routes, 58map, 124, 126. See also specific places and peoples

  North African cooking, 145, 165, 246–47. See also Moroccan cooking

  North America, 250map; anise in, 179; pomegranate in, 165. See also New World entries; specific places and peoples

  Nuñez Netto, Josua, 259

  nutmeg, 95, 103, 142–43map, 175, 193, 194, 203

  Obeida bin Abdulla bin al-Qasim, 98

  Obra de agricultura (Herrera), 170–71

  odors, spices as masking agents, 24

  olives, 169, 199, 200

  Oman: author’s souk visits, 30, 31, 32–33, 45–47, 52–53; Bahla Fort, 52, 53fig.; al-Balid ruins, 40–42, 41fig.; Portuguese in, 240–41; water management in, 155, 158. See also frankincense; specific regions and cities

  Omani cooking, 17–18, 96; Maqlay Samak (Fried Fish on a Bed of Coconut Rice), 96–97; Marak Minj (Green Lentil Curry with Frankincense, Ginger, and Omani Spices), 19–20

  Omanis: in al-Andalus, 163; Omani traders, 91–95, 97–98, 102, 130. See also Banu Nebhani; Minaeans; Nabataeans

  Oñate, Juan de, 10

  oregano, 175, 255

  Orians, Gordon, 2

  Oshi Plov (Persian-Tajik Rice Pilaf with Quince), 135–37

  Ottoman Turks, 152, 185, 241, 247

  paella, 63, 135, 177

  Palembang, 220, 222, 224

  Palmer, E. H., 78

  Palm Jumeirah, 105

  pasta, 81; Nabātiyyāt (Nabataean Chicken, Pasta, and Garbanzo Bean Stew), 81–83

  Pate Island (Patta), 230, 241–42

  People of the Book, 95, 97, 274

  pepper, 84, 126, 191, 203, 246; in New World, 262, 265. See also long pepper; melegueta pepper; pepper trade; Sichuan pepper

  peppers. See chile peppers

  pepper trade, 202, 205, 214–15; Europeans and, 193–94, 232, 236, 238, 248; Karimi traders, 183, 184

  The Pepper Trail (Andrews), 247

  Pereira, Joseph, 259

  Pérez, Francisco, 63

  perfumes, 24, 27

  The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, 66

  Perry, Charles, 81

  Persia: Islam in, 138, 139–40; Persian traders, 66, 93, 98, 202, 204, 205, 206; under Umayyad rule, 141, 144–47. See also specific places and peoples

  Persian cooking, 81, 145, 158, 207; Arab-Persian culinary fusions, 6, 145, 158, 223; Oshi Plov (Persian-Tajik Rice Pilaf with Quince), 135–37

 

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