The Girl with the Red Ribbon

by Linda Finlay

  The room she showed Rowan was up two flights of stairs and nestled under the eaves. It was cosy and had a multicoloured coverlet over the bed, and a tiny window with a curtain to match. She could hear sparrows chirruping in the thatch, and the bells from the church summoning worshippers for evensong made everything feel homely.

  ‘Mixed blessings, being here,’ Louisa said, grimacing. ‘On the one hand all those passing on their way to church can’t resist glancing in the window of the shop. It is an excellent time for ladies to point out their hearts’ desires to their husbands. On the other hand, the bell ringers are so earnest in their work, one can hardly hear oneself think, let alone try to have a decent conversation. Leave your things and come down to my dressing room,’ she said. Then, seeing Rowan’s look of surprise, added, ‘Well, it’s just a spare room full of fabrics and whatnots from the shop, but it serves a useful purpose.’

  Rowan stood in Louisa’s dressing room and tried not to shudder when she held up a bolt of black bombazine.

  ‘I think this would be admirable for an apprentice, don’t you?’ she asked. Then she saw Rowan’s expression. ‘You don’t agree?’ she asked, frowning.

  ‘It’s not for me to disagree with you,’ Rowan murmured, remembering the woman was her employer.

  ‘But … ?’ Louisa persisted.

  ‘Well, it is so dull and funereal, and besides …’

  ‘Please speak your mind, Rowan. If we are to work together it’s essential we understand each other.’

  ‘Well, the uniforms in the asylum were black dresses and …’ Her voice trailed off as she remembered the feel of the rough materials chafing her skin. ‘I don’t mean to be awkward,’ she said, as the woman turned away.

  ‘No, I quite take your point. How about this, then?’ she asked, holding up a swathe of fabric in a French navy. Rowan smiled and nodded.

  ‘We’ll make a dress out of this and trim the collar and cuffs with lace. That will make a smart outfit suitable for a milliner’s apprentice, I think. You will also need petticoats to support the full skirts and a boned corset.’ Rowan grimaced; she hated being trussed up. ‘Oh, don’t worry, this one is lightly boned,’ Louisa said, handing over a corset and petticoats. ‘It is imperative we both set an example and are dressed à propos.’

  Rowan looked askance at her employer, but she was already heading out of the door. She supposed she must mean she needed to be properly attired for her duties.

  Down in the workroom, Louisa measured Rowan. ‘My, you’re a minikin and no mistake,’ she said with her tinkling laugh. ‘There’ll be enough material here for at least a couple of dresses. I think we’ll trim a bonnet with lace to match. Oh, what’s that red ribbon around your wrist?’

  ‘That’s my ribbon of life, given to me by my mother. I never take it off,’ Rowan said, staring Louisa in the eye.

  ‘Well, if you could ensure it is kept hidden by your sleeve during working hours, I’d be obliged, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa said with a wink.

  ‘Gosh, you have everything to hand,’ Rowan said admiringly, as Louisa produced a template.

  ‘I’d surely be a poor mantua maker if I didn’t. Of course, skirts have become fuller so I’ll need to make a bit of an adjustment,’ Louisa answered as she began cutting the material. ‘You can select matching thread for sewing.’

  They had almost finished when they were disturbed by a noisy jangle of bells.

  Louisa sighed. ‘I’ve a feeling I know who that is. You finish off the dress and I’ll be back as soon as I can. If it becomes too dark to see, light the candles,’ she said, pointing to the glass candlesticks on either side of the work table.

  As the door closed behind her, Rowan continued sewing. She was excited, yet nervous about the next day. Would she ever learn what all these mysterious-looking instruments were for? In the growing shadows, the wooden blocks seemed to take on sinister faces. It was enough to give her nightmares, she thought, wondering if it was too early to light the candles.

  The sound of a man’s angry shout made her jump, interrupting her musing. Should she go and make sure Louisa was all right? She was just wondering whether it would be prudent to intrude, when angry voices sounded in the hallway. There followed the slamming of a door, the man’s voice snapping to a driver in the street, and then a carriage being driven away at speed.

  CHAPTER 25

  As Rowan sat shivering in the ghostly shadows, Louisa appeared in the doorway.

  ‘How are you getting on?’ she asked, and although her voice was calm Rowan noticed two angry red spots burning her cheeks.

  ‘I’ve almost finished sewing the lace onto the cuffs now,’ Rowan answered.

  Louisa nodded. ‘Well, I’m going to make us a hot drink. When you’ve finished, come through to the living room,’ and she disappeared before Rowan could answer.

  Louisa had made a pot of strong coffee, and as Rowan joined her at the table, she gave a groan. Without thinking, Rowan patted Louisa’s hand and asked what was wrong. The woman stared at her in surprise and Rowan wondered if she’d been impertinent. Louisa was her employer, after all.

  ‘You probably heard the commotion?’ Louisa finally asked. Rowan nodded. ‘That was my father. He visits sometimes to ensure his investment, as he likes to call it, is showing a profitable return. Tonight, though, he had a different reason.’

  ‘His investment?’ Rowan asked.

  Louisa gave a deep sigh. ‘You remember me saying I shall never marry?’ Rowan nodded. ‘Well, that’s because of him.’ Louisa’s voice was now unusually hard. ‘I shall never, ever allow myself to become an object of ridicule like my mother. I expect you’ve realized my father is away from home a lot?’

  ‘Yes, Mrs Acland told me that his business interests keep him away,’ Rowan replied.

  ‘Pah,’ Louisa spat. ‘They are merely a foil for his dalliances. He has mistresses, you see,’ she growled, shaking her head.

  ‘Poor Mrs Acland, she is such a wonderful woman,’ Rowan said.

  ‘Yes, she is, and she deserves to be treated better. A while ago, I was visiting a friend when I saw Father being nice, as he likes to calls it, to one of Mother’s friend’s daughters. He begged me not to tell her. I told him my silence would come at a price. He would have to facilitate my visiting the Grands Boulevards and the Opéra in Paris, to see the great milliners and modistes there, pay for my training, then set me up in my own establishment. He blustered about but, like all weak men when they are cornered, he buckled. Of course, I’d never hurt Mother by telling her, and he knows it. However, he couldn’t take the risk,’ she finished, taking a swallow of her rapidly cooling drink.

  ‘But she knows about his dalliances, doesn’t she?’ Rowan said, recalling the woman’s sad face.

  ‘She suspects, but all the time nobody actually says anything she can pretend to herself. It wouldn’t do for me, I can tell you, but that’s her way.’

  Rowan remembered about her own father and thought perhaps he wasn’t so bad after all. He was weak, yes, but he had loved her mother and never cheated on her. Suddenly she was gripped by an overwhelming longing to see him again. Then she realized Louisa was still speaking.

  ‘The real reason for his visit tonight was you, Rowan.’

  ‘Me?’

  ‘Yes, he’d heard I had engaged a pretty young apprentice, and called by to be introduced.’ For the first time since Rowan had left Mrs Acland’s house, the ribbon tightened around her wrist. ‘Now, you must go and get some rest, for you will have a busy day tomorrow.’

  Rowan went up to bed with her head full of her impressions of the day, but despite her excitement she immediately fell into a deep sleep.

  First thing the next morning she jumped eagerly out of bed, rinsed her face and brushed her hair until it gleamed. Donning the boned corset, she grimaced, but as she climbed into her petticoats and new dress, carefully smoothing out the folds of her full skirts, she felt elated. Why, I feel like a lady, she thought, pinning up her copper curls under the la
ce-trimmed bonnet and giving a twirl in front of the tiny glass on the dressing table.

  She made her way downstairs and, mindful of Louisa’s instructions, snatched up the broom and hurried out to sweep the walkway in front of the shop. Staring up at the tall, regal-looking buildings with their leaded windows, she couldn’t help smiling.

  What a contrast to her previous rural surroundings, she thought. The sudden memory of her old home tugged at her heartstrings but she shook herself, for wasn’t she lucky to be working in this smart Regency town? As the tang of salt carried by the onshore breeze wafted towards her, she inhaled deeply. Exhilaration tingled in her veins. Although she couldn’t actually see the sea, it was only at the end of the road, and she fully intended to promenade beside it on her half-day. Unbidden, memories of collecting seaweed with Sab on the beach at Saltcombe sprang into her mind, but she firmly pushed them away. This was her life now, and her father and Sab would soon know where they could find her if they had a care to.

  People were already bustling about their business, some looking at her curiously, others calling out in greeting. Noticing there was a patina of dust on the windows, she hurried back inside for a cloth. As she gave the panes a vigorous polish, her gaze was drawn to the pretty May Day bonnet with its candy-coloured ribbons elegantly presented on its stand. It was a masterpiece and she couldn’t help wondering who would buy it. Beyond that, the other bonnets were displayed artistically, and she had to agree that not quite being able to see them from the pavement certainly made one inclined to enter the shop and view them properly. It was indeed a shrewd sales ploy, and Madame Louisa was obviously a good businesswoman as well as a creative milliner.

  ‘Good morning, Miss Rowena.’ Spinning round, Rowan saw Mrs Parker beaming at her.

  ‘Good morning, Mrs Parker,’ she replied, before hurrying back down the entry. However, no sooner had she disposed of her cloth and walked through to the shop to turn the sign round to open, than the doorbell tinkled and the woman entered. Rowan watched her employer, bright smile on her face, briskly step through the curtained doorway from the workroom and greet the woman.

  ‘Good morning, Mrs Parker. How kind of you to pay my establishment such an early morning visit,’ she said. ‘I trust you are quite well?’

  ‘Indeed, Madame Louisa.’ There was a slight pause. ‘I couldn’t help noticing you had a visitor last night. Your father, I believe?’ Mrs Parker said, looking at Louisa expectantly.

  ‘Your acute powers of observation never fail to amaze me, Mrs Parker,’ Louisa answered smoothly. ‘Now, how may I be of help?’

  ‘Madame Louisa, I feel it is I who may be of assistance to you and, as such, have come to offer my services. You see, it occurred to me only last evening that your new apprentice might well be in need of a person to practise upon, someone discreet, like myself,’ Mrs Parker said, giving a little cough.

  Remembering Louisa’s words of the previous afternoon, Rowan stared hard at the woman’s ears.

  ‘Well, how kind of you, Mrs Parker, and should I require such assistance for Miss Rowena then you can be sure it will be you I think of. This morning, however, I shall be busy instructing my apprentice in the procedures of the workroom and familiarizing her with the tools of our trade. Now, perhaps I may assist you? You are in need of a new bonnet, perhaps? Maybe ribbons or feathers for trimming your current one?’ she asked, all the while carefully edging the woman towards the door.

  ‘No, no, I merely came to offer my services,’ Mrs Parker said quickly. ‘You know how I deem myself to be a pillar of the community.’

  ‘Indeed you do, Mrs Parker, and appreciating how busy you are, allow me to open the door for you. Thank you so much for calling,’ Louisa said, the little bell tinkling again as she pushed it firmly closed behind the woman.

  ‘Well, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa said. ‘Come through to the workroom and we shall begin your instruction. Rule number one: always be pleasant to your client, even when you know they have no intention of buying,’ she said, indicating for Rowan to take a seat.

  ‘But isn’t that a waste of time? I mean, if you know she isn’t going to buy anything …’ Rowan began.

  ‘Ah, but we do not know how many people Mrs Parker will speak with today,’ Louisa cut in. ‘If we give her any reason to spread gossip, believe you me, she will.’

  ‘I didn’t see her ears grow.’

  Louisa laughed. ‘Well keep looking and maybe you will be lucky on her next visit which, I feel, will surely be tomorrow. Now, rule number two is to make each and every client feel valued. Pay close attention to everything they say, and respond as if it is the most interesting thing you have ever heard. Even if they tell you it is raining and every other client before them has said the self-same thing, it is news to you. That way, they will leave feeling respected and treasured and, one hopes, vowing to return again soon. Keep the client happy and our business will be happy too. Memorize those rules, and I shall tell you the rest tomorrow. May I say how smart you look in your apprentice outfit? Do you find it comfortable to wear?’ Louisa asked, looking Rowan up and down.

  ‘Oh, yes, the material isn’t scratchy at all,’ she answered, thinking it prudent not to mention how restrictive she was finding the new corset. ‘I was amazed how quickly you were able to turn it into this lovely dress.’

  ‘Well, I wouldn’t be a very good mantua maker if I couldn’t. Time is money, as they say, and most people don’t have either to waste. Now let us take a look at the tools of our trade,’ she said, turning her attention to the work table.

  By the time Louisa told her she could take her break for luncheon, Rowan’s head was swimming with strange images and peculiar names. There were wooden blocks and sparteries for moulding, boisiers, singalettes, camions, umpteen pins of varying lengths, chalk markers, hammers, irons, coqs, stretchers and reels of wire. As for the trimmings, apparently, feathers were ordered from the plumassier, flowers and foliage from feuillagistes or veruriers. She’d never dreamed there were so many different fabrics. Why, she’d never remember half of them, she thought, supping the broth Maria set before her.

  ‘You look like you’ve lost a shilling and found a farthing,’ the maid of all work said.

  ‘I’ll never learn everything I’ve been shown this morning,’ Rowan sighed.

  ‘You wait till ma’am starts you on that fancy French talking,’ Maria said, looking at her knowingly.

  ‘French talking?’ Rowan gasped. ‘I don’t know any of that.’

  ‘Me neither, but it’s ma’am’s way. She trained in Paris and some other French place I can never remember. Anyway, when she uses these hifalutin words, she waves her hands around like this.’ The maid giggled, putting her nose in the air as she demonstrated. ‘Don’t worry, Miss Rowena, you’ll soon get the hang of it all. When me and my follower, Jem, do marry you can make me one of those fancy bonnets. It would be nice to have something prettier to wear than this,’ she said, taking off her maid’s plain cap and grimacing at it. ‘Well, better get over to next door. They share me, you see,’ she added, placing the cap back on her halo of curls.

  ‘Isn’t it time you weren’t here, Maria?’ Louisa said, coming into the room.

  The maid’s eyes widened and she scuttled out of the door as fast as her ample frame would allow. Rowan sprang to her feet.

  ‘I’ll get back to the workroom,’ she said.

  ‘Before you go, I feel I should finish our conversation from last night. I was angry and upset and I thank you for listening. Should my father visit here whilst I am out on business, please tell him to call another time. Say that is your employer’s instruction,’ she said, as Rowan frowned. ‘Maria is right when she says Father will only pay for a maid of all work, and for the minimum of hours he can get away with,’ she said with a sigh. Feeling uncomfortable at her employer’s disclosure, Rowan turned to go.

  ‘Father and I are both victims of our own actions, I’m afraid,’ Louisa continued, seeming not to notice. ‘He presumes I won’t te
ll Mother about his philandering, but can’t be certain. I, on the other hand, am on tenterhooks in case he withdraws his allowance and closes my business. So there we are, Rowan, both of us trapped. I wouldn’t normally talk about my private affairs but as my apprentice you are my responsibility and should be aware of how things are, especially as my family visit from time to time. My web gets ever more tangled than old Mrs Willett’s lace,’ she said, shrugging her shoulders.

  Not knowing what to say, Rowan just smiled politely.

  ‘Now …’ her employer said briskly. ‘We shall spend this afternoon in the shop itself. I will talk you through the bonnets, their shapes, fabrics and trimmings. It will be a chance for you to see how much you have remembered from your lesson in the workroom.’

  Rowan gulped.

  ‘It is the best way to learn, so don’t look worried. Whilst I have my luncheon, please ensure the fitting area is neat and clean. I have seen a couple of clients this morning, and the room needs tidying and refreshing with my signature scent.’

  Rowan hurried through to the shop where there was a fitting area partitioned by another white and blue curtain. As she tidied and straightened the chairs, she noticed they were also covered in the same material, lending the whole place an aura of sophistication. She’d just finished refreshing the dressing area with Louisa’s fragrance, deliberating whether the floral undertone could be lilac or peony, when the shop door tinkled and an elegantly dressed lady of middle years stepped daintily inside.

  ‘Good afternoon, madam,’ Rowan said politely. The woman inclined her head and then walked over to the bonnet in the window.

  ‘I would like to try this, if I may?’ she asked.

  Rowan gulped. Was she permitted to take it out of the window? Louisa had said she must keep the client happy.

  ‘Mrs Crawford, good afternoon. I do hope my new apprentice, Miss Rowena, has been attending to you?’ Louisa said, coming into the room with a rustle of skirts.