by Linda Finlay
‘Want to talk about it?’ she asked, pulling out the chair next to Rowan and plonking her generous body on it.
‘I think I’m going to lose my job,’ Rowan whispered. ‘I’ve cut right through the material I was sewing. It was that Mr Acland, he crept into the workroom and made me jump,’ she continued, the words coming out in a rush.
‘You want to keep away from him. He’s a right dirty old man, that one. Always creeping in through the entry and frightening the living daylights out of me. Only last week, I was bent over the range and he crept up and pinched my behind,’ Maria said with a shudder. ‘If my Jem finds out, he’ll use old Acland’s guts for sweeping his chimneys. He’s very protective, is my Jem,’ she said proudly, puffing out her ample chest.
‘Thank you, Maria,’ Louisa said, coming into the room.
The maid jumped to her feet. ‘Sorry, ma’am, only Miss Rowena here was all upset and I was trying to cheer her up,’ she explained.
‘That was kind of you, Maria. But I think you should leave her to her luncheon, don’t you?’
‘Yes, ma’am. I was just saying how a drop of hot broth would put the colour back in her cheeks.’
‘Very true. Now if you don’t mind I’d like to speak to Miss Rowena in private. I expect Mr Ware is waiting for his luncheon, and we don’t want that delicious-smelling broth going cold, do we?’ Louisa said firmly.
The maid nodded and scuttled away.
‘I’m sorry, Madame Louisa. I’ll pay for the damaged material,’ Rowan offered.
‘There’s no need to apologize,’ Louisa said.
‘But I was so engrossed in what I was doing I didn’t hear the shop bell.’
‘That’s because it didn’t ring. I understand Father came in via the entry. Apparently, it is one of his little tricks,’ Louisa said.
‘Oh, that explains it,’ Rowan cried, her heart lifting. ‘I’m so glad it wasn’t my fault.’
‘Don’t worry, I will ensure the entry door is kept locked in the future,’ Louisa said.
Then Rowan remembered the drab and her heart flopped again. ‘But I’ve still made a mess of the mantua. I was being careful to follow your line of pins,’ she said with a sigh.
‘Believe you me, there’s nothing that can’t be rectified. Eat your broth and everything will look better. Now, I really must get back to the shop,’ her employer said, patting her shoulder. ‘Come through when you’ve finished.’
Rowan stared down at her bowl, not feeling the least bit like eating, but knowing she must do as her employer instructed. After a few spoonsful, though, the tasty broth warmed her insides and she felt her spirits revive.
Returning to the workroom, she found Louisa sitting on her stool, studying the mantua.
‘Feeling better?’ she asked.
Rowan nodded.
‘Good. I’m pretty certain you won’t be bothered by my father again. Now I have had a good look at this, and with a bit of judicious alteration it can be saved.’ She unrolled another length of drab. ‘Although as Father has kindly insisted that Miss Carruthers have a complimentary one made as well, we will have more work to do.’ As Rowan stared at Louisa in surprise, her tinkling laugh filled the room.
‘Well, maybe he did take a bit of persuading to open his wallet. Luckily, when I visit a new client, I always take their measurements and then make a pattern,’ she said. Rowan watched as Louisa took a shaped sheet of paper from her bag and pinned it on to the material. ‘Now, I’d like you to cut this out and begin sewing, whilst I’m at luncheon.’
Rowan stared at her in surprise. ‘But I messed up the other one,’ she murmured.
‘And we all know why that happened,’ her employer said briskly. ‘You are quite capable, Miss Rowena. When I return I will show you how we can adapt the original garment. Don’t look so worried, Miss Carruthers will have her traditional mantua plus an extra one, slightly embellished. When she protests she has only commissioned the one, I shall assure her she will be doing me the utmost kindness in trialling my new design. The poor woman exists on such modest means it will be a wily way of increasing her apparel without compromising her pride.’ Getting to her feet, she gestured Rowan to take her place.
As the door shut behind her, Rowan thought what a kind woman her employer was. Who would believe she had such a repulsive man for a father? The vision of her own father’s gentle face swam before her, but she forced herself to concentrate on her work, picked up the scissors and nervously made the first incision. Soon she was engrossed in the task and her confidence returned. By the time Louisa reappeared the mantua had been cut out and the first seam sewed.
Louisa took a look and nodded. ‘Just like falling off a horse, you have to get straight back in the saddle,’ she said with a smile.
Rowan nodded, not liking to say she had always ridden bareback on the farm.
‘Let me show you what I propose doing with the other one and you can finish them both off whilst I deliver Lady Arlingham’s bonnet,’ her employer said. At the thought of being left along again, Rowan’s heart sank, but she duly moved her sewing to one side.
‘Now, I propose we cut the front into a V to incorporate your little nick,’ Louisa said, pointing to where the cut should be made.
‘But won’t that make the neckline too low?’ Rowan asked, remembering the timid little woman.
‘Yes, I know what you mean, but we could inset this triangle of contrasting material behind it, thus preserving Miss Carruthers’ modesty,’ she said, holding up a piece of pale buttermilk cotton. ‘Of course, if we were dealing with a less modest person we could really go to town and add a sprigged piece of cotton or a silk bow.’
Rowan stared at her employer in admiration. She would never have thought of such an ingenious solution.
‘That should keep you busy for the rest of the day, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa said, getting to her feet and throwing a soft lacy blue shawl around her shoulders. ‘If you finish before I return, please place Miss Carruthers’ pattern in the bottom drawer over there,’ she said, indicating the chest in the corner of the room. ‘That’s where I keep the patterns for all my clients. It saves so much time if I don’t have to keep remeasuring them. It also gives me an advantage over the competition.’
‘You have competition?’ Rowan asked.
‘Oh, yes, there are quite a few milliners here in Saltmouth, which is why I also make mantuas. I pride myself on providing the best service possible, and by having my ladies’ patterns to hand I can sew them a dress, just like that.’ Louisa snapped her fingers. ‘I also keep a note of their bonnet size as well. Talking of which, I really must be on my way to Arlingham Hall to see if her ladyship’s discerning eye will approve our pièce de résistance,’ she said, gathering up the hatbox and bustling through to the shop.
Rowan heard the tinkle of the bell and settled down to her sewing. Luckily, this morning’s mishap seemed to have turned out all right. Thoughts of the repulsive Mr Acland made her stomach turn and she hoped Louisa was right when she said he wouldn’t turn up again.
She had just finished the first mantua and was stretching her back before making a start on the adaptations to the other, when she thought she heard someone outside the workroom. Opening the door, she nearly jumped out of her skin when she saw Maria hovering in the hallway. To her surprise, the maid coloured up and quickly thrust her hands in her apron pocket.
‘Is something wrong, Maria?’ Rowan asked, frowning.
‘Oh, no, Miss Rowena, I was just checking the shop to make sure madam was out. I came to see if you’d like to go to the May Fair on Monday. My Jem’s calling for me. Have you got a follower? Only you can come with us if you haven’t. It’s being held on the field in front of Curzon Crescent. Jem’s promised to try and win me a twit,’ she added.
‘A twit?’ Rowan asked.
‘It’s a baby goldfish,’ Maria said, nervously hopping from one leg to the other.
‘That’s kind of you, Maria. I’ll have to check with Madame Louisa, tho
ugh. She hasn’t told me which is to be my half-day off yet.’
‘I could get Jem to bring one of his friends along, if you like,’ the maid called, as she hurried back to the kitchen.
Rowan shook her head as she returned to the workroom. The maid had seemed on edge. Surely she hadn’t been worried in case Louisa caught them talking? Her employer didn’t appear to be a snob. Shaking her head, she picked up the mantua and resumed her sewing. It would be fun to go to the fair. She hadn’t had time to explore the little town yet, and it would be lovely to be free for a few hours. Although it was kind of Maria to offer, she really didn’t fancy having to spend the afternoon with a man she’d never met. On the other hand, she did want to make new friends.
The shadows were creeping into the corners of the workroom by the time Louisa returned. She walked into the room sniffing the air and frowning.
‘Have you refreshed the fitting area this afternoon?’ she asked, setting down her bag.
Rowan looked up guiltily. ‘No, I haven’t, Madame Louisa. Sorry if I was meant to, but I’ve been so busy sewing the time ran away with me. I’ll do it straight away,’ she said, jumping to her feet.
Louisa shook her head. ‘No, that’s all right. Have you had any clients whilst I’ve been out?’
‘No, but I did keep my ears peeled for the bell.’ Realizing what she’d said, Rowan burst out laughing.
Louisa smiled. ‘I could do with a little light relief after the afternoon I’ve just experienced,’ she said, collapsing onto a chair. ‘Lady Arlingham is satisfied with what she is to wear, at last,’ she added, with a shake of her fair head. ‘She was in a very particular mood, but the funny thing was, she never once said anything about the bonnet not being the one she saw in the window.’
‘What was the matter, then?’ Rowan asked.
‘First of all she queried that it would go with the dress she proposes wearing for her soirée. She then summoned her maid to lay out her full ensemble. She changed into it, wondered if it was grand enough for the occasion, then changed into another. By the time she’d tried on another half-dozen, she decided her original choice was actually the best. Her poor maid was going frantic tidying everything away. Then her ladyship began fussing about which was the best way to wear the bonnet.’
‘But surely there is only one way,’ Rowan asked.
‘Of course there is, but the client is always right, so another half-hour was spent assuring her she looked regal enough to host her party, and would surely be the belle of the ball. In the end, she conceded the bonnet was the crème de la crème and I was dismissed. Now let’s take a look at your handiwork,’ she said, lighting the candles and then picking up the mantuas. Rowan held her breath. She’d taken great care with her stitching for she did so want to do something right for her employer.
‘Well done, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa pronounced with a smile. ‘When I left Arlingham Hall, I took a stroll in the fresh air to clear my head and as I was passing Curzon Crescent, Esther Elliot beckoned to me.’ Curzon Crescent? Hadn’t Maria said the May Fair would be held in the field by there? Rowan was just about to ask Louisa about her half-day, when she realized her employer was still speaking. ‘Anyway, it will be a rush to get it done in time, but she is a valued client and I can’t let her down. It will be quiet on Monday with everyone celebrating May Day so I’ve decided to shut the shop at noon and you can help me make it,’ Louisa said, looking at her expectantly. ‘You have no objection to your first real instruction on bonnet making being then, have you, Miss Rowena?’ she asked, frowning.
‘No, of course not,’ Rowan said, her heart sinking. She’d have to ask about her half-day another time. After the mistake she’d made putting the bonnet back in the window yesterday and then cutting into the mantua today, she really didn’t have any choice in the matter, did she?
CHAPTER 29
On Monday afternoon, Rowan hurried back to the workroom ready for her first bonnet making instruction. Maria had left for the May Fair in a flurry of excitement at the prospect of spending the rest of the day with her follower. When Rowan had seen the maid dressed in her finery, eyes bright with excitement, she’d experienced a fleeting stab of envy.
Telling herself it was more important to make the most of the opportunity she’d been given, and that she’d have plenty of time to socialize once she’d learned her trade, she began setting out the ostrich feathers she’d spent the morning cleaning. The powder mixture in the bag she’d had to shake them in had smelled so noxious it had got right up her nose, making her eyes water. As soon as she had completed her task, she’d hurried out to the yard to get some fresh air. Still, the feathers were in pristine condition now, she thought, setting the tray to one side.
‘Right then,’ Louisa said, coming into the workroom and interrupting her musing. ‘Are you ready for your initiation into the world of bonnet making?’ Rowan nodded enthusiastically but her employer was frowning down at the ostrich feathers.
‘Have I done something wrong?’ Rowan asked.
‘They look clean enough, but are you sure you took them all out of the bag?’
‘Yes, I checked before I went outside to clear my lungs,’ Rowan said. ‘Why?’
‘Well, I could have sworn I unpacked eight this morning but there are only seven here now,’ Louisa said, shaking her head. ‘Oh, well, not to worry, we’ll sort it out later. Now, let’s make a start.’ She laid out various pattern pieces on the work table. ‘I have already measured Esther for her bonnet. So first of all we will trace out the main shape and crown panel, which is the round piece for the back,’ she added, seeing Rowan’s puzzled look. ‘Now we carefully cut out this buckram exactly to the line traced. Sometimes we use a double layer of fabric called willow, a type of grass, but this is so much more convenient.’
Rowan watched her employer’s deft movements closely, determined to commit them to memory.
‘Pass me some of those pins, please,’ Louisa asked, pointing to the little jar, but in her haste to appear willing, Rowan sent it spinning and watched in dismay as pins scattered all over the work table. Louisa clicked her tongue impatiently.
‘Sorry,’ Rowan gabbled, hurriedly collecting them up, and passing the jar to her employer.
‘Right, now we pin the two ends of the main bonnet together. Got that?’ she asked, after a few moments. Rowan nodded vigorously. ‘Now you sew where you have pinned, using strong thread. I find blanket stitch works best. This is reinforced by the ends overlapping, so there are three rows of stitches. It’s really quite straightforward.’
Is it? Rowan thought. She swallowed nervously, feeling hopelessly out of her depth.
Louisa cut a length of wire. ‘Right, now bend this gently around the wooden block to form a circle for the crown panel,’ she said, handing the wire to Rowan.
‘Me?’ she squeaked.
‘Yes, you, Miss Rowena. How else are you going to learn?’ Tentatively, Rowan started to bend the wire. ‘I said gently. We don’t want any kinks, or the shape will be ruined.’
Rowan tried but it was no good, her hands were shaking so much she couldn’t make the wire form into a circle. Silently, Louisa took it from her and moments later the job was done. ‘Now we overlap the ends of the wire here and bind them together to the exact size inside the crown.’ Although Louisa said ‘we’, Rowan was relieved her employer did it herself. ‘Have you any questions?’ Louisa asked, staring at Rowan.
Yes, please can I go home? she pleaded silently and then remembered, this was her home as well as the place she worked in. Wordlessly, she looked at her employer and shook her head.
‘It’s important to say if there’s anything you don’t understand,’ Louisa said, cutting another length of wire. ‘This is for the peak and body of the bonnet. You form the shape around the wooden mould and finish it off by bending gently, using both thumbs, to frame the peak just so. Now join both ends together so that it will be hidden at the back. It all makes complete sense, doesn’t it?’ Louisa gave Rowan a smil
e.
No, it does not, the young apprentice wanted to scream.
Completely absorbed in her task and oblivious to Rowan’s discomfort, Louisa proceeded to sew the wire into the crown. ‘Always make sure the join is at the bottom,’ she instructed. ‘Nearly there now …’ She finished sewing the wire into the main part of the bonnet and peak. ‘Again, make sure the join is at the bottom. Sew the round piece of buckram to the crown over the back of the bonnet here and voilà, we have the finished shape.’ She threw her hands in the air in a gesture of artistic triumph.
‘I’m not sure I’ll ever remember all that,’ Rowan said, shaking her head and collapsing onto the stool.
‘Of course you will. With the basic frame formed, all we have to do now is select the materials for the covering, lining and trimmings. That is the fun bit, and as you will find, it is all about balance and flow.’ The only thing that was flowing was her attention, Rowan thought, but her employer was off again, and making a supreme effort, she turned and faced her, with what she hoped was some semblance of intelligence.
‘Before we can go any further, I need to consult with Esther,’ Louisa said. ‘So I’m afraid that is the end of your lesson today, Miss Rowena.’ Thank heavens, Rowan thought. ‘I shall pay her a visit later and take some samples for her to choose from. She isn’t able to walk very far these days, so I like to make it as easy as I can for her,’ Louisa got to her feet. ‘I hope you aren’t too disappointed,’ she added, mistaking Rowan’s silence.
‘No, of course not,’ Rowan said as her employer slipped through the dividing curtain and into the shop. Her head was spinning. Whoever would have thought so much went into the making of a bonnet? Louisa had also said the shape was evolving with new hats already coming into mode in Milan. All she could think was it was a good thing the shop had been closed so they’d had no interruptions.
‘Miss Rowena?’ Louisa said, coming back into the workroom. ‘We haven’t had any clients today, have we?’
‘No, Madame Louisa,’ she replied.