The Storyteller of Marrakesh

by Joydeep Roy-Bhattacharya

  He hesitated before adding in an undertone:

  And you have.

  His tone was detached, as though he were making a general observation, without a trace of circumspection or condemnation or regret.

  I turned to him and regarded him for a moment before asking:

  Do you blame me?

  He shook his head gravely.

  I am your friend, he said with dignity. Your secret is safe with me.

  He stretched out his hand and grasped mine tightly in a sign of loyalty.

  ‌Dream

  We left the Jemaa for the shelter of the souks, and as we did, unbeknownst to us, a man and a woman appeared on the periphery of the square. They walked slowly past the gleaming white calèches parked in rows for the night. The man was slender, bearded, the woman had long dark hair that came down to her waist. Emerging from the shadows, they hesitated on the verge of entering the Jemaa, as if unsure of their own intent. But the man suddenly extended his arms towards his companion and she hastened to him with a smile. He drew her to him and they clung together for a moment, her arms around his neck, her knees slightly bent. He kissed her on the forehead. She gave a languid laugh, unconscious of anything but their closeness. They entered the Jemaa arm in arm, and she led him to the middle of the square where the embers from a storyteller’s fire still glowed dully on the pavement. They gazed down at the embers, their eyes reflecting the dying sparks. With a shy, almost girlish movement, she brushed his cheek in the lightest of caresses, while he reached for her hand and slowly stroked her long fingers, her palm, her wrist. Neither of them noticed the shadowy form watching intently from the darkness of a window bay. Everywhere around them was silence.

  ‌‌Acknowledgements

  First and foremost, The Storyteller of Marrakesh owes everything to Nicole Aragi, who, among many happy synchronicities, shares my love of Marrakesh and all things Moroccan.

  My indefatigable editor, Alane Salierno Mason, is beyond compare; no words would suffice to adequately acknowledge her contribution.

  Grateful thanks to Denise Scarfi who gives so much, so often.

  Thanks to Louise Brockett, Ingsu Liu, Jeannie Luciano, Winfrida Mbewe, Amy Robbins, Bill Rusin, Nomi Victor, Chris Welch, Devon Zahn, Nancy Palmquist, Don Rifkin, Tara Powers, and all at W.W. Norton.

  I owe a great debt to those who inspired me to persevere: JoAnne Akalaitis, Atish Bagchi, Thomas Bartscherer, Valeria Berchicci, Karl Heinz Bittel, Ronald Briggs, Lana Cable, Marisa Caramella, Sebastienne Charrier, Stephanie and Christopher Cherdel, Elizabeth Frank, Jim Hanks, Chris Hedges, Maryline Herron, Liz van Hoose, Pierre Joris, Gerald Jung, Benjamin La Farge, Rachel Lambusson, Torgil and Jennica Lenning, Mathilde Levitte, Alexandra Ludwig, Gail and Robert C. Ludwig, Eshragh Motahar, Lily Oei, Patricia and Donald Pitcher, Julie Pulerwitz, Joan Retallack, Robert de Saint Phalle, Françoise Songe, Marielle Songe, Benjamin Stevens, Claudia Strobel, Françoise Ostriker van Willem, Maurizio Zollo.

  Finally, this book was inspired by Stefanie Herron.

  ‌‌Glossary

  ABERDAG: Dance; a musical movement of a RWAI performance.

  AL QARAWIYIN: Vies with Al-Azhar in Cairo for the title of the world’s oldest university. It was founded in 857 by the daughter of a wealthy refugee from the city of Qarawiyin in Tunisia.

  ALHAMDULLILAH: All praise is due to Allah; praise to God.

  ALMORAVIDS: The first great Berber dynasty of Morocco (1062–1147) founded by Youssef ben Tachfine (1061–1107); the Almoravids originated from a tribe of Sanhaja Berbers in present-day Mauritania.

  AMANAR: The guide; the constellation Orion.

  EL AMARA: “The red”, indicating Marrakesh (also AL-HAMRA, “red-walled city” or “red city”).

  AMARG: The sung piece, the heart of a RWAI performance.

  AMMUSSU: The choreographed overture of a RWAI performance.

  AMYDAZ: Poet; the leader of a group of IMDYAZN.

  ANDALUS: From the Andalusian region of southern Spain.

  ARIB: Ruhhal tribe of the Western Sahara.

  ARYANA: Naked; Moroccans often refer to an unveiled woman as “naked”.

  ASTARA: An instrumental prelude to a RWAI performance, played on the RABAB, giving the basic notes of the melodies that follow.

  B’STILLA: Pigeon pie from Fès.

  BAB: City gate.

  BABOUCHES: Leather slippers, usually yellow.

  BADAJOZ: The battle of Badajoz (1086) in which the ALMORAVIDS, tribesmen from the High Atlas Mountains, crossed into Spain and defeated the Christian army under Alfonso VI, King of Castile and León.

  BARAKALAUFIK: Thank you, please.

  BENDIR: Frame drum.

  BERBER: Native African inhabitants of Morocco who form the majority of the present population.

  BESSALAMA: Goodbye.

  BISMILLAH IR-RAHMAN IR-RAHIM: “In the name of God, most Gracious, most Compassionate”.

  BOUBOU: Voluminous, floating embroidered robe originating from Senegal and other black African countries.

  BURNOUS: Voluminous woollen cloak worn by both men and women.

  CASA VOYAGEURS: The main railway station in Casablanca.

  CHABAB: Adolescent, unmarried youth.

  COUSCOUS: A staple made from semolina, wheat flour and water.

  DARBUKA / DOUMBEC: Metal or clay goblet-shaped drum.

  DARIJA: Arabic dialect of Morocco, which bears little resemblance to classical Arabic.

  DEFF: A double-sided tambourine.

  DELLAHS: Watermelons.

  DERB: Street.

  DESS: Flooring made of pounded lime mixed with clay.

  DIRHAM: Unit of Moroccan currency.

  EL MAGHREB AL AQSA: “The land of the far west”; “place of sunset”.

  ERG: Expanse of sand or a ridge of dunes.

  FANTASIAS: Display of horsemanship at the larger festivals or MOUSSEMS.

  FASSI: Native of Fès.

  FEKKAS: Sweet aniseed biscuits.

  FIL-BADIA: In the desert.

  FIRWAL: Veil.

  FNAA: End of the world.

  FOUNDOUK: Inn and storehouse; caravanserai.

  FOUQIYA / JABADOUR: Long men’s garment secured at the front.

  FOUTA: Traditional scarlet-and-white-striped garment typically worn by the women of the Rif mountains.

  F’QIH: A Muslim religious authority, an expert on FIQH, or religious scholarship. By extension, a F’QIH is also a teacher of any kind, regardless of subject taught or level of instruction.

  FUSHA: Classical Arabic.

  GANDOURA: Short, loose, sleeveless garment.

  GHAITAH: A type of oboe.

  GIMBRI / GUENBRI: A long-necked folk lute.

  GLISSA: Cushion.

  GNAOUA: Religious brotherhood of itinerant musicians of West African origin (from the same root as Guinea).

  GUEDRA: A large drum resting on the ground.

  HABIBI: My dear.

  HABRA: Steak.

  HADITH: Collections of sayings and stories attributed to the Prophet Mohammed; six major collections of Hadiths were eventually compiled.

  HAJJI: A person who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca.

  HAMADA: Stony, arid plateau in the Sahara.

  HAMMAM: Turkish bath.

  HANBEL: Carpet or blanket worn by Berbers.

  HAND OF FATIMA: Representation of the hand of the Prophet Mohammed’s daughter, Fatima Zahra, said to be a sign of good luck.

  HARATIN: Formerly of the slave class.

  HARISSA: A condiment made from puréed hot red peppers.

  HEGUIN: Of the two lines of camels in the Sahara, the Heguin is the larger, and is prized as the unmatched transport truck of the desert; the other is the smaller MEHARI, known for its speed.

  HELBA: Sweetmeat.

  HOURI: The extraordinarily beautiful women who exist only in Jannat (paradise) in the afterlife. Their beauty is said to be beyond parallel.

  ILM: Knowledge.

  IMAZIGHEN: Noble or freeborn, as the Berbers consider t
hemselves.

  IMDYAZN: Itinerant professional musicians of the Atlas Mountains.

  IMOHAR: TUAREG nobleman.

  INADEN: TUAREG craftsmen, smiths, also storytellers and transmitters of oral traditions.

  INSHALLAH: God willing.

  JAMUR: Roof spike made of enamelled baked clay or metal carrying up to five balls of diminishing size and often crowned by the Moroccan national emblem, a star inside a crescent moon.

  JBEL: Mountain.

  JEBANA: A long-necked vessel to serve coffee.

  JEHUDI: Jew.

  JELLABA: Wide-sleeved garment worn by both men and women.

  JEMAA: Mosque; or village assembly of the heads of families in Berber tribes; or a place of assembly; or Friday, the main day of worship.

  JEMBE: Goblet-shaped, skin-covered drum held between the thighs and meant to be played with bare hands.

  JINN: Evil spirit.

  KAFTAN: Long women’s garment secured at the front and decorated with passementerie and embroidery.

  KARKABATS: Double castanets used by the GNAOUA musicians.

  KASBAH: Fortified house with crenellated towers; citadel.

  KEFTA: Spiced meatballs.

  KEL: TUAREG tribe; TUAREG society is divided into kels.

  KHAMSIN: An oppressively hot south or south-east wind occurring in North Africa and lasting for fifty days in spring (from the Arabic kamsin, or fifty).

  KHETTARA: Underground irrigation channels.

  KIF: Marijuana.

  KILIM: A woven rug.

  KSAR: Fortified village surrounded by solid walls set with towers (from classical Arabic, qasr, or palace).

  LA BES DARIK: Hello.

  LEVECHE: A warm wind originating in the Sahara and moving towards Spain; also called the sirocco in other parts of the Mediterranean.

  LOTAR: Lute.

  MAALEM: A master craftsman.

  MABROUK: Congratulations.

  MAGHREB: “Land of the setting sun”. From gharb (west), it is the Arabic name for the westernmost part of the Arab world comprising Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco.

  MAGHREBIN: A dweller of the MAGHREB.

  MAKHZEN: Festival tent.

  MANIYYA: Fate as allocated death.

  MAQTU’A: Old and poor.

  MARABOUT: A holy man, and his place of burial.

  MARRAKESH: “Open door to the desert”.

  MARRAKCHI: Native of Marrakesh.

  MAURI: Western Berber tribes, inhabiting Mauritania.

  MECHOUAR: Assembly place, court of judgement, parade ground.

  MECHOUI: Roast lamb.

  MEDERSA: Qur’anic school with resident students.

  MEDINA: Traditional Arab city enclosed by ramparts.

  MEHARI: TUAREG camels.

  MELLAH: Jewish quarter of a MEDINA.

  MENARA: A public garden in Marrakesh with a central pool and pavilion.

  MERGUEZ: Spicy lamb sausage.

  MINBAR: The pulpit from which the imam leads the Friday midday prayers.

  MOGADOR: Island off the bay at Essaouira.

  MOKALHA: Long-barrelled, intricately worked silver-plated rifles from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, prized by Berber tribesmen and used on ceremonial occasions such as FANTASIAS.

  MOURCHIDAT: A woman preacher educated by the state to teach and interpret the Qur’an, though not to lead prayers.

  MOUSHARABIYYA: Wooden latticework panel used as a screen in front of balconies or in the windows of houses and mosques.

  MOUSSEM: Pilgrimage festival.

  NAI: Flute.

  NAKOUS: A small cymbal played with two rods.

  NASIB: Remembrance of the beloved; the first movement of the pre-Islamic ode or qasida.

  NASRANI: Nazarene (Christian); more generally, foreigner.

  NISHAN: Honest.

  OUD: Lute.

  OUED: Wadi; dried-out river channel.

  PALMERIAE: Famous palm grove in Marrakesh.

  PASTILLA: Pigeon pie, also known as B’STILLA.

  PERI: A fairy; a beautiful or graceful being.

  PISÉ: Building material made of sun-baked earth, grit and occasionally straw.

  PISTE: Trail, path, track.

  QAHBA: Whore.

  QA’ID: Chief of a defined territory; district administrator.

  QALB: Heart.

  QAYSARIA: Covered galleries in the souks.

  RABAB: A single-string fiddle.

  RAÏ: A pop music form originally from the Algerian port of Oran, expressing an opinion, outlook or point of view on topical issues.

  RAIS: Leader of a RWAI ensemble.

  RAWI: Storyteller.

  REGUIBAT: “Heroes of the desert”; legendary raiders of the Western Sahara.

  RIAD: Patio garden; also the house built around such a garden.

  RIF: The great crescent-shaped mountain barrier straddling northern Morocco.

  RIHLA SA’IDA: Bon voyage.

  RUAGH: Hebrew for wind, breath, spirit, soul.

  RUHHAL: Nomadic inhabitants of the Sahara over the eleven-hundred-mile range from Timbuktu to Morocco (from the classical Arabic ruhhala, to wander from place to place).

  RWAI: Groups of professional Chleuh Berber musicians from the Souss Valley; a RWAI performance usually comprises movements entitled ASTARA, AMARG, AMMUSSU, TAMSUSST, ABERDAG and TABBAYT.

  SAADI: The first Arab dynasty in Morocco (1554–1659) since the Idrissids, the Saadians marked the end of Berber rule. Their most impressive ruler was Ahmed “El Mansour” (the Victorious) who defeated the Portuguese army under King Sebastião in the Battle of Three Kings (1578).

  SAFAVID: Shi’a dynasty (1501–1722) originating in Ardabil in the Azerbaijani region of Iran, the Safavids established the greatest empire in Persia since the Islamic conquest of the region.

  SAHEL: From sahil (border, shore, coast of the Sahara Desert), primarily a belt of savannah, running from the Atlantic Ocean to the Horn of Africa, it forms the boundary zone between the Sahara in the north and the more fertile region to the south.

  SAHRAWI: Inhabitant of the Western Sahara territory.

  SAHRIJ: Cistern; water basin in the courtyard of a house.

  SEER FHALEK: “Go away”.

  SERDAL: Brightly coloured scarf decorated with coins, worn by Berber women.

  SEROUAL/SERWAL: Loose, calf-length trousers fastened at the waist and knees and worn under the JELLABA.

  SFINGE: Doughnut.

  SHEIKH: Leader of a religious brotherhood; chief of a tribe.

  SHIRAZ, TABRIZ, HERAT: Cities of the former Persian empire, and the schools of painting originating in these cities.

  SHRÁB: Mirage.

  SHUKRAAN: “Thank you”.

  SIDI: Lord.

  SIMOOM: A hot, dry, dust-laden breeze blowing at intervals in the desert.

  SOUK: Market, or market quarter.

  SQALA: Ramparts; fort.

  SSALAMU ’LEKUM: “Peace be upon you”.

  SUFI: A Muslim ascetic and mystic.

  SUPRATOURS: Express tour buses run by the national train company.

  TABBAYT: The finale of a RWAI performance.

  TABIA: Mud building material such as PISÉ.

  TADELAKT: Polished plaster surface made of powdered limestone and impermeable to water.

  TAFILALT: Region of date-palm oases in south-eastern Morocco, beginning in Erfoud, its principal town and gateway.

  TAJINE: A stew of meat and vegetables cooked slowly over a charcoal brazier in an earthenware dish with a conical lid, also called a tajine.

  TAMASHEK: The language shared by the TUAREGS and the Berbers.

  TAM-TAM: Bongos.

  TAMSSUST: A lively song; part of a RWAI performance.

  TANJIA: Meat cooked very slowly in an earthenware pot.

  TAR AND TAARIJA: Types of tambourine.

  TASHILHAIT: The Berber dialect spoken in the mountains of southern Morocco.

  TASSILI: Tassili n’Ajjer, “plateau of the rivers” (TAMASHEK), a massif in the Sahara i
n south-east Algeria.

  THUJA: A variety of wood used by the craftsmen of Essaouira.

  TIZI: Mountain pass.

  TOURIQ: Botanical ornamentation used in architecture, derived from the Arabo-Andalusian tradition and composed of interlacing floral, foliage and palmette patterns.

  TREQ SALAMA: “Bon voyage”.

  TUAREG: Nomadic Berber tribesmen from the Western Sahara.

  WADI: Riverbed that is dry or partially dry except during the rainy season; river; river valley; see OUED.

  ZAHRA: Venus.

  ZELLIJ: Geometrical mosaic tilework, typically arranged in colourful patterns.

  ZEPHYR: A soft gentle breeze, originating from Zephyros, the ancient Greek name for the west wind.

  ZOUAQ: Painting on wood.