Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Bus #364 or #365. The Abbey is only accessible via tour. €7, students €3.50, seniors €6, family card €13. Open Mar-Oct daily 9-11:30am and 1:30-5pm, Nov-Feb daily 9-11:30am and 1:30-4pm. Tours M-Sa 10am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm, and 4pm, Su 11am, 2pm, 3pm, and 4pm. Tours in German unless there’s a large percentage of English-speakers, but helpful information cards are otherwise provided.
FOOD
There are not many good food options in this city. One good way of feeding yourself is to go to one of the supermarkets, such as Spar (across from the train station, on Haupstr.) or Billa (Elizabeth Str. Most shops close M-F 6pm, Sa around noon, and closed on Su.).
KLOSTERGASTHOF STIFT HEILIGENKREUZ
Stift Heiligenkreuz
INTERNATIONAL
2258 870 30
As the only restaurant near the abbey, tourists make up the majority of the customers, with higher prices to match. However, the meals are large, hearty, and quite flavorful with a range of meat and vegetarian options from a simple salmon steak with rice and vegetables (€13.60) to an Indian curry with grilled turkey and rice (€10.10). Vegetarian entrees include fried cauliflower with tartar and salad (€7.60). The pleasant courtyard with fountain and spreading trees is delightful.
Bus #364 or #365: Stift Heiligenkreuz. Entrees €7.60-18. Open daily 9am-9pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: (in the center of town, off the Hauptpl. at K. Elizabeth Str. 2 2236 267 27 www.moedling.at Open M-F 9am-12:30 and 1:30pm-5pm.)
• PHARMACY: (In Friheitspl. Look for the large green cross. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-noon.)
• POLICE STATION: (Joseph Deutsch Pl., off Hauptstr.)
• BANKS: Oberbank, Ertse, and Volksbank are scattered along Haupstr. and in the pedestrian streets.
Getting There
Getting to the town of Mödling is incredibly simple. S-bahn trains (Vienna’s suburban train network) run every 5-10min. from Wien Meidling (accessible from the U6 Philadelphiabrucke stop) to Mödling. The journey takes 20min. and a one-way ticket costs €1.80. In Mödling, a less extensive bus network connects to the surrounding towns, including Hinterbruhl and Heiligenkreuz. Bus #364 and #365 run to both these towns and stop close to, if not at, the main sights there such as the Seegrotte and Stift Heiligenkreuz. Each one-way journey costs €1.80. Buses run 1-2 times per hour, and up to 4 times per hour around 11am and noon. Check the schedules ahead of time to plan your day most efficiently.
tulln an der donau
2272
As the district capital of Lower Austria, Tulln an der Donau (Tulln on the Danube) feels much like a normal city with regular citizens going about their business, all with the flowing Danube as a picturesque backdrop. While the city has a modern feel with plenty of commercial shops and restaurants, there are remnants of the old Roman equestrian camp mixed in, such as the oldest structure in town—the Salzturm—and the Roman walls, now preserved in an underground glass enclosure. The two churches, St. Stephans and Minorite Church, add their spires to the skyline, while the small Schiele Museum and Roman Museum give the city more cultural clout. Tulln provides plenty of simple pleasures for a day away from the big city, including fountains, statues, promenades, and gardens. Come for a sunny day and you might find yourself anxiously awaiting to return.
ORIENTATION
From the Tulln Stadt train station, a short walk up Bahnhofstr., with the station directly behind you, brings you to Rathausplatz and the neighboring Hauptplatz with benches, cafes, banks, and a fountain. From the Hauptpl., a number of streets lead toward the Danube Promenade along the water, and to a number of the town’s notable fountains and sights. From the Hauptpl., Lederergasse brings you to Minoritenplatz.
SIGHTS
DANUBE PROMENADE
along the Danube
PROMENADE
Tulln’s waterfront location is part of the town’s draw, so it’s worth walking or biking along the promenade and taking in a few of the sights. Starting from the western end, you can find artist Hundertwasser’s boat Regentag (“Rainy Day”) docked at the Schiffstation. Following the walkway, you will then see the Nibelungen Denkmal (fountain) which depicts the meeting of Kriemhild and Etzel in Tulln in the German epic Nibelungenlied. Passing the Donaubuhne where concerts are regularly held, you will see the Salzturm (Salt Tower), which was used as a flank tower when Tulln was a Roman equestrian camp. Short as the walk may be, spending time on the promenade is a highlight of Tulln.
From the train station, walk down Bahnhofstr., through the Hauptpl., straight to the Danube. Free.
EGON SCHIELE MUSEUM
Donaulande 28
MUSEUM
2272 645 70 www.gonschiele.museum.com
This small, three-story museum is located in the former county jail of Tulln, Egon Schiele’s birthtown. The prison rooms are adapted to display over 60 original works—mostly drawings, water colors, and oil paintings—many of which were done early in his lifetime. The first floor also gives history on Schiele’s childhood between Tulln, Krems, and Klosterneuburg; be sure to ask for the handy English translation cards.
Along the Danube Promenade; look for signs. €5, students €3, seniors €3.50. Open Apr-Oct Tu-Su 10am-noon and 1pm-5pm.
DIE GARTEN
Am Wasserpark 1
GARDENS
2272 681 88 www.diegartentulln.at
Opened in 2008, this permanent garden show displays over 50 individually-designed and constructed gardens, some dedicated to pleasure and beauty while others addressing specific structural or ecological issues. Explore the “Japanese garden,” “wellness garden,” “rosarium,” or “farmer’s garden,” to name just a few. Each garden has an English description and explanation, and many have benches and chairs on which to relax and fully absorb your surroundings. Nearby, there is a treetop path that takes you 30 meters above the garden for a bird’s-eye view.
Walk along the Danube Promenade with the water to your right. Follow the signs. €11, students and seniors €9, children under 17 €6, children under 6 free, groups (20+) €7.50 per person. Season passes available. Open Apr-Oct M-Su 9am-6pm.
FOOD
One option for food is to eat cheap at a local grocery like Zielpunkt grocery. (Hauptpl. 24 Open M-F 7:30am-7pm, Sa 7:30am-6pm.)
GASTHAUS “ZUM GOLDENEN SCHIFF”
Weiner Str. 10
VIENNESE
2272 626 71
This gasthaus has a classic wood-paneled interior, simple white and blue checkered tablecloths, and a cozy, no-frills atmosphere. All the classic Viennese dishes are on order, including gebackene scholle (€11.50), wiener schnitzel (€9.50), zweibelrostbraten (€12.50), as well as a selection of soups and side dishes.
From Bahnhofstr., cross through Rathauspl., then make your first right on to Weiner Str. The restaurant is directly across from the post office. Entrees €7-14. Open M-F 10am-2:30pm and 5:30-11pm, Su 10:30am-3pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The Tourist Info Office staff offers numerous brochures and pamphlets, a train schedule, restaurant listings, as well as an extremely helpful free town map. They will also book rooms in town for a €2 fee. ( Minoritenpl. 2 2272 675 66, www.tulln.at Open Oct-Apr M-F 8am-3pm; May-Sept M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm.)
• BANKS: Erste Bank has a 24hr. ATM on the back side. (Rathauspl. 8. 05 0100-20111. Open M-Th 8am-noon and 1-3:30pm, F 8am-noon and 1-4:30pm.) There are also branches of Volksbank, Bank Austria and Oberbank in the Hauptpl., also with 24hr ATMs.
• PHARMACIES: Bipa pharmacy. ( Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-6pm.)
• POST OFFICE: The post office also has a Western Union. (Weiner Str. 7-9. 0577 677 34 30 www.3430.post.atOpen M-F 8am-6pm.)
• POLICE STATION: (Nibelungenpl., behind the Tourist Office and next to the Town Hall.)
Getting There
Trains to Tulln leave about every half hour from Vienna’s most northern train station, Franz-Joseph Bahnhof in the 9th
district. The trip takes 30-35min. and costs €5.40. When you buy your ticket, check to see which station in Tulln the train will stop at, Tulln an der Donau or Tulln Stadt. Tulln Stadt drops you closest to the city center, accessed via a short walk up Bahnhofstr. If you get iff at Tulln an der Donau, you can easily take a bus (€1.80) to the city center or, if you already have a map, walk 15-20min.
krems and stein
2732
As the gateway to the Wachau region, Krems and its neighboring town Stein are undoubtedly the most picturesque cities from which to begin exploring the Austrian countryside. Located west along the Danube 64km from Vienna, the narrow cobbled streets of Krems seamlessly blend the old and new—cafes and shops along the commercial thoroughfare hide networks of twisted alleyways, where you will stumble across hidden plazas and doors. Wander from one hallowed church to the next (Pfarrkirche, Piaristenkriche, and Frauenbergkirche are just a few), and take in the view from the hillside beneath the ancient Pulverturm. In addition to its historical foundation, Krems has secured its place in the hearts of art-lovers with the KunstMiele (Art Mile) and in the livers of wine-lovers as a premiere wine region.
In the neighboring town of Stein, the main street Steiner Landstrasse has the most gorgeous old building facades enlivened with flower boxes and in some cases a refreshing coat of paint. Here in Minoritenpl., the Minoritenkirche has been altered into a convertible space for artists to rent and display their work. On a warm summer day, stroll along the Danube back to Krems and then take the boat home, just in time to watch the shadows begin to lengthen over the glistening blue of the Donau.
ORIENTATION
If arriving by train, walk through Bahnhofpl. and down Dinstlstr. to reach the main throroughfare of Krems, Untere Landstrasse to the right and Obere Landstrasse to the left. At the far end of Obere Landstr., you can pass under the steintor (gate) and leave the old city into the town of Und. Here you will find the tourist office, Krems Tourismus. Continuing west through Und leads to the picturesque neighboring town of Stein, whose main thoroughfare Steiner Landstr. similarly runs parallel to the Danube.
SIGHTS
GRAFENEGG CASTLE
Schloß Grafenegg
CASTLE, GROUNDS
2735 550 05 22 www.grafenegg.com
Enter into your own personal fairy tale à la Cinderella as you explore the grounds and ornate rooms of this gorgeous castle nestled in the Austrian countryside a little ways from Krems. The square tower has four mini turrets with clocks in between, and even though the moat is dry, the luminescent white castle is picture perfect. Inside, explore the library, salons, halls, and dining room—be sure to look up at the hammer-beam ceilings for some of the most elaborate Historist woodwork in all of Austria. Today, the castle also hosts about 30 cultural events per year, either in parts of the castle or at the outdoor stage and auditorium, also located on the Castle grounds.
The ÖBB (Austrian Rail) runs train services from Vienna; Franz-Josefs, Spittelau and Heiligenstadt stations to the station Wagram-Grafenegg, 2km from Grafenegg Castle. Some taxi companies offer a fixed-price transfer from Krems for €30 (up to 4 people). Call 2732 858 83 or 664 210 33 55. If you have a car, getting to Grafenegg is much easier. Driving time from Vienna takes around 40min. Take A22 in the direction of Stockerau. Take the Krems/Tulln/St. Pölten exit S5 to the Grafenegg exit. €5, students €3, family ticket €7.50, groups (20+) €4 per person. Castle open Apr-Oct Tu-Su 10am-5pm.
KARIKATURMUSEUM
Steiner Landstr. 3a
MUSEUM
2732 90 80 20 www.karikaturmuseum.at
The jagged roof and life-size cartoon statues mark this unique Cartoon Museum on Krems’ Art Mile. Unlike many cartoon museums, the Karikaturmuseum focuses not only on comic strips and animations but also on political and humor-based cartoons under the motto “laughter is healthy”. Most of the exhibits, with the exception of one permanent exhibit, rotate every six months. 2011 marks the 10-year anniversary of the museum, so big (and secretive) plans are in the works!
On the Kunstmiele (Art Mile). €9; children, seniors, and students €8. Open daily 10am-6pm.
KUNSTHALLE
Steiner Landstr. 3
ART MUSEUM
2732 90 80 10 www.kunsthalle.at
This convertible art space hosts primarily modern art exhibits, that rotate every 3-4 months. One of the recent new exhibits focused on “New Realism” and its artists, including Marcel Duchamp. Another consisted of Daniel Spoerri’s “object boxes,” which innovatively used multiple materials in different dimensions. Another was the mixed-media installation Twelve-O’Clock in London by an Austrian-American artist.
On the Kunstmiele (Art Mile). €9, students €8, family ticket €18, groups of 10 or more €7 per person. Open daily 10am-6pm.
FOOD
SCHWARZE KUCHL
Untere Landstr. 8
VIENNESE
02732 831 28 www.schwarze-kuchl.at
This country-style kuchl (“kitchen”) offers up traditional Austrian dishes at a tiled stove right before your eyes. As though in a country home, the walls are lined with pots, cooking utenstils, and other countryside paraphernalia, though it reads as quaint, not kitsch, and makes Schwarze Kuchl a cozy locale for a hearty meal during your exploration of Krems and Stein.
On the main street in Krems town. Entrees €5.50-14. Open M-F 8:30am-7:30pm, Sa 8:30am-5pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
Krems’ commercial thoroughfare is Untere Landstr./Obere Landstr. (Upper and Lower), where you can find all the necessary shops and practicalities.
• TOURIST OFFICES: (Utzstr. 1. 02732 700 11 www.krems.info Open Nov 1-Apr 6 M-F 8:30am-5pm; Apr 7-Oct 19 M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-noon and 1pm-6pm, Su 10am-noon and 1pm-4pm.)
• BANK: Bank Austria at Obere. (Landst. 19. 24hr ATM.)
• POST OFFICE: (Brandströmstr. 4-6. 02732 826 0642) and (Steiner Landstr. 68. 057 7677 3504)
• PHARMACIES: Apotheke. (Corner of Untere Landstr. and Marktgasse.) Bipa pharmacy. (Landstr. 19. Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 1:30-5pm.)
Getting There
Krems is a common excursion from Vienna and is easily accessed from the city. By train, the trip begins at Franz-Joseph Bahnhof ( €13.90. 1hr., 25 per day). In the summer (May-Sept),the DDSG Blue Danube runs on Sundays from Vienna to Durnstein, departing Vienna at 8:30am. It stops in Krems at 2pm, and picks up again at 5pm. (www.ddsg-blue-danube.at Round-trip €29.50) If you are feeling particularly energetic, it is also possible to bike from Vienna to Krems, following the bicycle path that runs alongside the Danube. If you get tired, you can always return via train or boat; in most cases, they allow you to take on a bike free of charge.
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the UK, and the US.
• VISA: Required for visitors who plan to stay in Austria for more than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT: Required for all foreigners planning to work in Austria.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Austria is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that Austria is six hours ahead of New York City, 9 hours ahead of Los Angeles, one hour ahead of the British Isles, 9 hours behind Sydney, and 10 hours behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping And Bargaining
Service staff is paid by the hour, and a service charge is included in an item’s unit price. Cheap customers typically just round up to the nearest whole Euro, but it’s customary and polite to tip 5-10% if you are satisfied with the service. If the service was poor, you don’t have to tip at all. To tip, mention the total to your waiter while paying. If he states that the bill is €20, respond “€22,” and he will include the tip. Do not leave the tip on the table; hand it directly to the server. It is standard to tip a taxi driver at least €1, housekeepers €1-2 a day, bellhops €1 per piece of lugga
ge, and public toilet attendants around €.50.
Taxes
Most goods in Austria are subject to a Value-Added Tax—or mehrwertsteuer (MwSt)—of 19% (a reduced tax of 7% is applied to books and magazines, foods, and agricultural products). Ask for a MwSt return form at points of purchase to enjoy tax-free shopping. Present it at customs upon leaving the country, along with your receipts and the unused goods. Refunds can be claimed at Tax Free Shopping Offices, found at most airports, road borders, and ferry stations, or by mail (Tax-Free Shopping Processing Center, Trubelgasse 19, 1030 Vienna Austria). For more information, contact the German VAT refund hotline (0228 406 2880 www.bzst.de).
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice