Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Chelsea
Chelsea once gained a reputation as a punk hangout, but there is nothing punk about the neighborhood today. Overrun by rich “Sloanes” (preps, in British parlance), Chelsea now has sky-high prices, expensive clubs, and absurd cars. Just about the only thing that’s still edgy about the neighborhood is the Saatchi Gallery. Current home of Mick Jagger and former home of Oscar Wilde, most of the action can be found in Sloane Square, King’s Road, and Royal Hospital Road. Visit for the restaurants and the sights, but find your home and nightlife elsewhere. Chelsea is between Westminster and Hammersmith and beneath Kensington. Take to the Tube to Sloane Square to access it.
For details on London map, click here
The City of London
One of the oldest and most historic parts of London, the City of London, often referred to as “the City,” houses many of London’s finest and most crowded tourist attractions, as well as the city’s financial center. Written in the histories of many of the buildings are the devastating tragedies of German bombing during the Blitz and the Great Fire of London in 1666. The fire spread rapidly, destroying 80% of the City of London in five days. Much of the current city was rebuilt after both of these tragedies, and its fantastic architecture stands as a monument to the resilient London spirit. “The City” also holds many of London’s Roman artifacts, as well as vestiges of the ancient London Wall. It is a neighborhood where the spires of famous churches stretch up with the towers of powerful insurance companies. The City borders the northern bank of the Thames and is east of Holborn. Take the Tube to St. Paul’s.
Holborn and Clerkenwell
In the 18th century, Holborn was home to Mother Clap’s Molly House, a gay brothel. Today, however, it houses many banks, law firms, and upscale pubs, so things are a little bit different. Clerkenwell is a former monastic center, defined by the Priory of St. John, before Henry VIII began the reformation. It has since become a popular spot for excellent meals and hardy night life. Holborn is west of the City of London; Clerkenwell is north of Holborn, with Charterhouse St. serving as part of its southern boundary. Take the Tube to Farringdon or Temple.
Kensington and Earl’s Court
Once a Saxon settlement, Kensington has since developed into one of the most pleasant parts of London. Known as The Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, it is sometimes pretentiously referred to as “The Royal Borough.” Filled with some of the best museums, nicest bars and swankiest residences in London, Kensington may have more Lamborghinis, Maseratis, and Ferraris per capita than most London neighborhoods. Notable for its museums, ease of access to Hyde Park, and laid-back nightlife, Kensington is well worth a visit. Kensington is south of Notting Hill and north of Knightsbridge. Use High Street Kensington for Kensington High St. and Hyde Park, and South Kensington for Old Brompton Rd. and the museums. Earl’s Court is just up Old Brompton Rd. from Kensington, but it feels worlds apart, and is a much better neighborhood for a quiet evening out.
Knightsbridge and Belgravia
Once a dangerous neighborhood, Knightsbridge has since improved its rep. Appealing mostly thanks to its selection of undercrowded and enjoyable sights and fantastic department stores, this neighborhood between South Kensington and Kensington merits at least a short visit. Use Knightsbridge and Hyde Park Corner if you travel here. Belgravia is a rich neighborhood bordered by Chelsea and Westminster. It features many fantastic restaurants and a reasonable selection of accommodations, but not much else. Take the Tube to Sloane Square or Victoria to get to Belgravia.
Marylebone and Regent’s Park
Pronounced (MAR-leh-bone), Marylebone is a classic London neighborhood. From the winding, pub-lined Marylebone Lane to the gorgeous and romantic Regent’s Park, the neighborhood offers a complete British experience. The city’s diverse population is represented on Edgware Road, where a predominantly Lebanese community boasts many Middle Eastern restaurants. The area surrounding Baker Street features some of the city’s more touristy attractions, including the Sherlock Holmes Museum and Madame Tussaud’s. Take Bond Street to reach the south, Edgware for the Lebanese area. Baker Street or Regent’s Park will get you to Regent’s Park. Shocking, no?
Notting Hill
Notting Hill is a beautiful neighborhood and, while touristy, it’s worth a visit—even if you don’t bump into Hugh Grant in a local bookstore. Many shopping options are geared towards an older crowd, but Portobello Market (Portobello Rd., Saturdays from about 6am-6pm) is a blast; you can buy anything from antiques to fresh fruits and vegetables. Aside from the market, the neighborhood’s charm lies in its pastel residences, high-end fashion boutiques, and fancy restaurants. These upscale offerings and fantastic houses are what have convinced celebrities like Claudia Schiffer to move to the area. In other celebrity lore, the Clash are rumored to have gotten their start on Portobello Road. Rock on. Notting Hill is just north of Kensington, and organizes itself mainly around Portobello Rd. Take the Tube to Notting Hill Gate.
The South Bank
Populated with the renovated factories of yore, the South Bank has undergone a renaissance, reinforcing its status as a hub of London entertainment. This status does, of course, have some history to it: both the Rose and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre resided on the bank. Now, the Southbank Centre hosts exciting classical music concerts. Great theaters abound, as do some of the best museums and galleries in London, including the famous Tate Modern. “Millennium Mile” stretches from the London Eye in the west and runs eastward along the Thames, making for a beautiful walk, especially around sunset. Head to Waterloo for inland attractions and to Southwark for Bankside. The neighborhood is located in the south of Central London on—you guessed it—the south bank of the Thames.
The West End
The West End is one of the largest, most exciting parts of London. Comprised of Soho, Covent Garden, Mayfair and Saint James’s, and Trafalgar Square, the West End has some of the most affordable shopping in London, as well as arguably the city’s best (free!) public museums, such as the National Gallery, and the National Portrait Gallery, among others. Known by many as the Broadway of London, the West End offers a host of excellent theater options close to Trafalgar Square, accessible by Charing Cross.
Soho, most easily accessed via Tottenham Court Road is one of the hipper and seedier parts of London. Home to one of the most prominent gay communities in London, Soho is teeming with nightlife for the GLBT and straight clubgoers alike. During the day, however, Soho is known for its excellent restaurants. Chinatown in particular offers many popular options. It’s located off Gerrard St. and is easily accessed from Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus. The Oxford Circus Tube stop exits onto Regent St. which is one of the more famous and beautiful streets in London, and is home to many chains and famous shops. Most notable here are the gorgeous Apple store and the famous Hamley’s toy store, which will help anyone rediscover their inner child.
Covent Garden (accessible via Covent Garden—go figure!) is famous for its shops and the Covent Garden Piazza, recognizable from Hitchcock’s Frenzy and the opening scene of My Fair Lady. Though no longer a Cockney flower market or a place where merchants burst spontaneously into song, Covent Garden is known for its rich history of street performers. One could spend a fulfilling trip in the West End only. It should be noted, however, that as the West End is a prime tourist location as well as a nightlife location, it can be quite dangerous. When going out, people should try to travel in groups and stick to the crowded, well-lit streets. If you get tired of walking on foot, you can also travel by rickshaw. Also note that false store fronts with paper signs inside advertising “model” or “girl” are poorly-concealed brothels. If taken in the right spirit, however, and with proper precautions, The West End’s relative sketchiness only adds to its color. We prefer to think of it as Dickensian rather than depressing.
Westminster
After the City of London, Westminster lays claim to London’s most famous sites. Between the Houses of Parliament, Buckingh
am Palace, and Westminster Abbey (as well as many of the modern centers of government), Westminster feels like the seat of the royal empire. Be warned that, outside of the sites, however, there isn’t a lot to do. South of Victoria lies Pimlico, a residential neighborhood with several accommodation options, many of them on Belgrave Rd. The Westminster Tube stop is near most sights, but exit at the Victoria or Pimlico stops if you’re looking for hostels. Westminster is north of the Thames and West of Belgravia and Pimlico.
North London
North London is a sprawling expanse north of central London. Hampstead and Camden Town are the two most popular draws. Hampstead provides pleasant dining and a properly British small-town feel. It also offers the glorious and meandering Heath, a must for all nature-lovers. Camden was once punk central, but is now more upscale. Still worth a visit, it contains some underground culture and many upscale restaurants and boutiques. Hampstead is accessible via Hampstead and Golders Green on the northern line, and Hampstead Heath via the National Rail. Camden Town is accessible on the Northern Line. Hampstead is just north of Camden.
South London
South London has been maligned historically as one of London’s dodgier neighborhoods. While the area has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years, it’s still not as safe as many of the areas in London proper; Clapham is one of the best neighborhoods to find young professionals who patronize its pub and restaurant scene. Now a cultural center as well, Clapham houses the Battersea Arts Centre, renowned for its revolutionary productions. Brixton is less quaint than nearby Clapham. Biblethumpers preach the Apocalypse from convenience store pulpits, and purveyors of all goods at the nearby Afro-Caribbean market make sales despite the overpowering smell of fish. Brixton is also a good place to be if you’ve been missing fast food. Stockwell and Vauxhall are less accessible and interesting than the other two neighborhoods in South London, but Vauxhall does claim the City Farm in the town park. The local underground stations in many of the southern neighborhoods play classical music, thought by many to be a tactic for keeping young people from accumulating in the Underground, Clockwork Orange-style. Access Clapham via Clapham North, Clapham Common or Clapham South or take the National Rail services to Clapham Junction. Brixton is accessible via Brixton on the Victoria Line, and Stockwell can be easily reached via Stockwell. Those looking to visit Dulwich can take the P4 bus from Brixton Station. Vauxhall is southwest of the City of London, Clapham is south of Vauxhall, Brixton is east of Clapham and south of Stockwell.
East London
East London, and especially the East End, is known for its cutting-edge galleries and its deliciously affordable markets and restaurants. The neighborhood has all of the spark and edge that Chelsea used to, and its massive immigrant community rounds out the culinary landscape nicely. Brick Lane, named after the brick kilns brought by Flemish immigrants and defined by the waves of Huguenot, French, Russian, Bengali, and Muslim immigrants who came after, is packed to the gills with fantastic and cheap ethnic cuisine as well as some of the most exciting and youthful nightlife in London. Further east, Greenwich features some of London’s more famous sites. Use the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) to get to Greenwich, Old St., and Liverpool St. for the East End, Aldgate East for Brick Lane.
West London
West London is one of the more shape-shifting areas of London. Shepherd’s Bush is a crush of ethnic life, which is evident in the varied restaurants lining Goldhawk Road, culminating in the veritable World’s Fair that is Shepherd’s Bush Market. Also unique to Shepherd’s Bush is Westfield’s, the 43-acre monument to shopping that makes American strip malls look like rinky-dink corner stores. It’s essentially a shopping city, and one of those structures where a wavy ceiling constitutes a viable design aesthetic and makes a bold architectural statement. The name Shepherd’s Bush is derived from a thorn tree that is deformed by shepherds lying in it while watching their flock. Hammersmith is removed from the bustle, feeling more like a seaside resort than a corner of London. The Thames provides many water views that would be impossible in the city proper. A good place for a good meal and a quiet day, Kew feels like rural London. It is, however, a bit touristy because of the gorgeous Kew Gardens, which is the world’s largest collection of living plants. ( Wheelchair-accessible. £13.50, concessions £11.50, under 17 free. Open M-F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-7:30pm.) Hammersmith is accessible via the Hammersmith and City Line (last stop), and Shepherd’s Bush is accessible via the Central Line. Kew is on the Richmond branch of the District Line and is the penultimate stop.
ACCOMMODATIONS
London is an infamously expensive city, and accommodations are no exception to this rule. The cheapest options are the city’s hostels, and there are quite a few, especially in Bloomsbury, Kensington, and Earl’s Court and Bayswater (extra emphasis on Bloomsbury). Travelers looking for long-term accommodations should look into rooms at the colleges. Those unwilling to stay in a hostel can stay in bed and breakfasts as they can offer the privacy and comfort of a hotel at close-to-hostel prices.
Bayswater
THE PAVILION
34-36 Sussex Gardens
THEMED HOTEL
020 7262 0905 www.pavilionhoteluk.com
All you really need to know about the Pavilion is that the most popular room is named “Honky Tonk Afro.” Maybe you need to know more. No, the Pavilion is not a blaxploitation film, but rather a themed hotel with rooms ranging from ’70s decor to a Casablanca theme. Many famous and half-naked celebrities have posed here and the hotel is often used by modeling companies.
Paddington. Left onto Praed St., right onto London St., left onto Sussex Gardens. Continental breakfast delivered to your room. Small singles £60; large singles £85; doubles £100; triples £120; family (4 people) £130. 4% extra charge when you pay with a credit card.
internet cafe
Many restaurants and cafes offer Wi-Fi, but there are a few surefire ways to get Internet in London. Travelling with a laptop has its challenges and its unexpected joys. No matter how heavy the computer, or how total the hard drive crash after your hostelmate spills beer and vodka, which he, for some reason, thought would “taste really good together, bro,” few things compare to the thrill of finding cheap Internet somewhere other than the Internet cafe. Some sure bets include chains like Starbucks, but a true laptop adventurer won’t stop there. Sure, you can hit up a Starbucks (and, if it has two floors like the one in Victoria Station, you can camp on the second floor for hours without anyone realizing you’re there), but what happens after it closes? That’s when you find the cheesiest, most touristy pub you can, and ask if they have Wi-Fi. If they do, you’ve got internet until 11pm or midnight, plus a killer soundtrack. If, however, that’s just not your thing, www.easyinternetcafe.com allows users to search for nearby Internet cafes. Search London for a list of most internet cafes, and to add ratings.
ASTOR QUEST
45 Queensborough Terr.
HOSTEL
020 7229 7782 www.astorhostels.com
A homey and friendly hostel with a chummy staff that lives on-site. The rooms are par for the course in hostel-land, but everything is cleaned and beds are made with fresh sheets daily. Breakfast included and served in a room by the kitchen, which is freely available for use. Hostel-weary travelers have the unique experience of dining under Sid Vicious’s drugged-out gaze. Be sure to ask the 24hr. receptionist for deals on clubs.
Bayswater. Take right onto Queensway, left onto Bayswater Rd., and left onto Queensborough Terr. Ages 18-35. 4-bed dorms and twin rooms have shared bathroom. Free luggage storage. Padlocks £2. 1 female-only room available; 6 beds; £19. Laundry wash £2.50, dry £1. Check-out 10am. Check-in any time after 2pm. Hostel renovations should be completed in Jan 2011. 4-bed dorm £20; 8-bed £17.00; 6-bed with ensuite bath £19; 4-bed with ensuite £21.
Bloomsbury
ASTORS MUSEUM HOSTEL
27 Montague St.
HOSTEL
020 7580 5360 www.astorhostels.com
This is a true backpackers’ hostel, quiet but centrally located. The incredibly friendly staff live on-site and are always ready with a pub-crawl, a good song on the reception speakers, a discount on local sights, and themed parties once a week. Astors is welcoming, comfortable, and exciting all at once. The rooms are spacious and clean, the kitchen is open for guest use, and everything is cleaned at least once a day.
Russell Sq. Go down Guilford toward Russell Sq., turn left onto the square and follow it around until you reach Montague St. Turn left onto Montague St. Continental breakfast included. Bring a padlock for the locker under the bed or borrow one with a £3 deposit and a £2 rental fee. Luggage storage free. Laundry £2.50 to wash, £0.50 dry. Wi-Fi throughout building, 40min. free upon arrival, £5 per day, £8 per week. Recommend that you book 2 weeks in advance and 3 weeks in advance for weekends. No ensuite rooms. 4-bed, 6-bed, 8-bed, 10-bed, and 12-bed dorms range £15-25, but prices vary. Doubles £70, but price subject to change.
GENERATOR HOSTEL
37 Tavistock Pl.
PARTY HOSTEL
020 7388 7666 www.generatorhostels.com