Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 20
Aldgate East. Left onto Whitechapel Rd., left onto Osborn St., continue onto Brick Ln.; left onto Hanbury. Min. £6 purchase with credit card. Wi-Fi available, but they don’t allow plugins. Breakfast and lunch entrees £6-£7.50. Espresso £2-£2.50. Specialty coffee drinks around £3.60. Open M-F 7:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
CAFE 1001
91 Brick Ln.
CAFE
020 7247 9679 www.cafe1001.co.uk
Under the overhang connecting Cafe 1001 to the Truman Ale factory, hip East Enders bask in the British sun’s occasional appearances and share in the good coffee served from the cafe’s year-round outdoor cart. Inside the cafe, numerous patrons listen to music from the likes of Caetano Veloso and kick back in the warehouse-like space. At night, the salad bar turns into a real bar, and the back room becomes a venue for up-and-coming bands and DJs, and sometimes it even serves as a classroom for aspiring swing dancers. Basically, this cafe is as close as a cafe comes to being a cultural center.
Aldgate East. Left onto Whitechapel Rd., left onto Osborn St., continue onto Brick Ln. Credit card min. £4 purchase. F, Sa, Su are club nights from 7pm-midnight, with DJs playing in the back room. Live bands every Tu (rock) and W (folk and jazz). Swing dancing classes Th 11am-5pm. Coffee £1.20-1.70 for a small, £.40-£2 for a large. Cover charge £3-5 after midnight. Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 7am-midnight, sometimes no closing F-Su (as in, it stays open continuously).
Other Neighborhoods
POILNE
46 Elizabeth St.
BAKERY
020 7808 4910 www.poilane.com
Poilâne is one of the most famous bakeries from Paris, which means that, by London standards, it’s ungodly good. The commitment to excellence at Poilâne is unparalleled. Many of the bakers live above the shop, baking the bread all through the night to ensure that it’s fresh for the morning crowd. They use only the oldest, most time-honored traditions and techniques when creating their sourdough masterpieces, and the pain au chocolat is to die for. Also worth noting is the fact that they bake in wood-fired ovens of the type that started the Great Fire of London—but don’t worry, Poilâne is both safe and delicious.
Victoria. Left onto Buckingham Palace Rd., right onto Elizabeth St. Custard tart £16. Walnut bread £4. Pain au chocolat £1.20. Sourdough bread £4.40. Open M-F 7:30am-7pm. Sa 7:30am-6pm.
DA SCALZO
2 Eccleston Pl.
ITALIAN
020 7730 5498 www.dascalzo.com
You should really be wary of Italian restaurants, especially ones in close proximity to train and bus stations, like da Scalzo, but da Scalzo defies all odds. The food is well-priced and fantastically portioned, making for a real Italian feast to be savored. The waiters and waitresses pal around with each other, putting on informal shows with pizza dough, and they have the incredible ability to make you feel that, though you may have just gotten off the plane, you’ve been dining at da Scalzo for your whole life.
Victoria. Left onto Buckingham Palace Rd., right onto Elizabeth St. Pasta and risotto £6-7. Stone baked pizza £8.50-9. Meat £12.50-14. Fish £12.50. Open M-Sa 8am-11pm, Su 8am-8pm.
BAKER AND SPICE
54-56 Elizabeth St.
NEW EUROPEAN PASTRIES
020 7730 3033 www.bakerandspice.uk.com
Baker and Spice is the part deux of the one-two pastry punch on Elizabeth St. The street boasts Poîlane, and, less than a block away, the equally good Baker and Spice. Serving freshly made pastries, strong, delicious coffee, and a wide variety of ready-made meals and salads, Baker and Spice is gourmet on the go. Ideal for takeaway, but delicious enough to be savored slowly in the al fresco dining areas, Baker and Space does it all with ample style and grace.
Victoria. Left onto Buckingham Palace Rd., right onto Elizabeth St. Open M-Sa 7am-7pm, Su 8am-5pm.
THE GATE
51 Queen Caroline St., 2nd floor.
VEGETARIAN, VEGAN, GLUTEN FREE
020 8748 6932 www.thegate.tv
Tucked away down Queen Caroline St. in the lofty, sunlit studio of a former puppet-maker, the Gate has been serving a menu composed almost entirely of vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free dishes for the last twenty years. Everything is made from seasonal ingredients, and the massive window that illuminates the dining room is bordered by sunflowers. If you like what you eat, you can buy their own cookbook, too.
Hammersmith. Take the south exit from the Hammersmith shopping center toward the London Apollo and follow Queen Caroline St. Reservations recommended 3 days in advance. Entrees £12.50-13.50. Open M-F noon-2:30pm and 6-10pm, Sa 6-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
If you seek the club scene of say, Barcelona, go to Barcelona. The elitist impulse often rears its head in British club life—this is especially evident in Kensington and Chelsea where many clubs are “members only,” meaning they’ll make you ask to have your name put on a guest list. That doesn’t mean that there’s no nightlife. Visitors can find evening kicks in bars that serve some exciting drinks (check out Soho for lessons in mixology). Music venues like the Troubadour in Kensington provide killer atmospheres and young crowds late at night.
Still, pubs are the fabric of British life. Most are open daily 11am-11pm with some variation in regards to the weekend. Pubs are where Brits come to eat and drink too much. At lunchtime, the pubs in Westminster and the City of London fill with men in matching suits. The best are the ones that claim residence in the oldest drinking locations in London, meaning that people have been drunk there since the dawn of time. Be wary of the “George Orwell drank here” or the “Dylan Thomas drank here” line—you will see those names everywhere, because not only were they fantastic drunks, they were also prolific walkers. Parliament even passed the Defense of the Realm Act during WWI to limit pub hours in order to keep the munitions workers sober. This law was in effect until 1988, and many pubs still retain the early hours. Always bring cab fare or plan your night bus route home as the Tube closes early.
Bloomsbury
VATS WINE BAR
51 Lambs’ Conduit St.
WINE BAR
020 7242 8963 www.vatswinebar.com
The epitome of a warm, British restaurant, Vats imports much of its wine while keeping the feel of the place properly British. With a menu boasting around 160 vintages from all over, Vats is an upscale and pleasant evening experience. Upscale pub food like venison sausages with creamed mash, broccoli florets, belotte beans, bacon sauce, and a garnish of cranberries are par for the course. The food is hearty and delicious, and the wine flows freely.
Russell Square. Left onto Colonnade, right onto Grenville St., left onto Guilford St. and right onto Lambs’ Conduit St. Sides £3.75. Entrees £13-15. Open M-F noon-2:30pm and 6-9:30pm.
THE FITZROY TAVERN
16A Charlotte St.
FAMOUS TAVERN
020 7580 3714
Many pubs try to ensnare tourists by claiming they are the oldest pub in England or telling bizarre perversions of famous stories (“and that penny that Dickens gave to the little boy was spent on whiskey in our pub...”) that lend a historical grandeur to what is actually just a decrepit pub with bad ales. The Fitzroy Tavern actually has a published book about its history, and artifacts from that history coat the walls. Famous for the charitable program instated by the tavern to send kids on outings to the country and for the authors who frequented the pub, most notably Dylan Thomas and George Orwell, The Fitzroy Tavern is the real deal. Pints are cheap, the history’s free, and there’s a comedy night too.
Goodge St. left on Tottenham Ct. Rd., left on Tottenham St., left on to Charlotte St. With credit cards, £10 min. and 1.5% surcharge. Most pints under £3.15; £2.50 is the average. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10:30pm. Comedy night W 8:30pm.
THE COURT
108a Tottenham Court Rd.
PUB
020 7387 0183
A true-blue student pub for a student neighborhood, The Court boasts loud music, cheap beers, juke boxes, and a hip crowd. In the upstairs area,
there’s a pool table, but most of the pubgoers sit outside or inside the brightly-lit pub area, under hanging strings of lights. The burgers are cheap and tantalizing.
Warren St. Left on Warren St., right on Tottenham Court Rd. Pints £3. Burgers £4.95-5.95. With student discount (you qualify if you buy the yellow student discount card at the pub), the pints are around £2.50. Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-Sa 11am-1am. Food served until 9pm.
PRINCESS LOUISE
208 High Holborn
PUB
020 7405 8816
A student-packed local hang, the Princess Louise has a classic interior filled with elaborately-designed fogged glass, worn leather seats, and various other pieces of ornate decor. Perhaps the most beautiful things in the pub are the (figurative) price tags on the beers, which are much cheaper than what you’ll find in most pubs in the area. A fun atmosphere with a young crowd, the Princess Louise is a neighborhood favorite.
Holborn. Left onto High Holborn. Pint of bitters £1.99. Pint of lager £2.27. Open M-F 11:30am-11pm, Sa-Su noon-11pm.
Chelsea
Chelsea is now one of the more exclusive and pretentious places to find nightlife in London. Many clubs advertise as members-only private establishments, but for many, you only have to call to get on the guest list. There are a few excellent pubs and many clubs, but if you’re looking for an easily accessible, young scene, look elsewhere.
THE CHELSEA RAM
32 Burnaby St.
PUB
020 7351 4008
A classy neighborhood pub that’s more of a quiet hang than it is a rowdy party, the Chelsea Ram specializes in cultivating a pleasant atmosphere. With loads of regulars congregating under the pub’s high, bright ceilings, the pub provides friendly staff, good books, fun board games, and interesting art that’s for sale (if you tend to buy art when drunk, beware).
Sloane Square. Exit the tube and go straight down Sloane Sq. The street slanting gently left is King’s Rd. If you don’t want to walk the road (it’s manageable but long), the following buses and night buses service the area: #11, 19, 22, 211, 319, N11, N19, N22. Left on Lots Rd., left Burnaby St. Pints £4. Entrees £11.50-12.95. Open M-Sa noon-11pm. Su noon-7pm. Lunch served M-Sa noon-3pm and 6-10pm.
HENRY J. BEAN’S BAR AND GRILL
195-197 King’s Rd.
PUB
020 7352 9255 www.henryjbeans.co.uk/chelsea
Henry J. Bean’s attitude toward nightlife is very much embodied in its license-plate map of the states: really cool but a little mixed-up (why is Delaware in the Midwest?) Henry J. Bean’s is jam-packed with a super loud young crowd grooving to a wide range of blaring music. Booths provide seating for food, TVs show sporting events, and taps pour beer. The good times await.
Sloane Square. Exit the tube and go straight down Sloane Sq. The street slanting gently left is King’s Rd. If you don’t want to walk the road (it’s manageable but long), the following buses and night buses service the area: 11, 19, 22, 211, 319, N11, N19, N22. Pints £3.80. Open M-W 11am-11pm, Th-Su 11am-midnight.
THE ANTELOPE
22-24 Eaton Terr.
PUB
020 7824 8512
Established in 1827, The Antelope enjoyed a brief stint as a celebrity pub in the ’60s, hosting such rising stars as Roman Polanski. More recently, Prince William came in to drink, but these days The Antelope is otherwise a quiet, small, and cozy neighborhood bar with a Scrabble set and a worn couch that sits by a lamp and under a bookshelf.
Sloane Sq. Take a right onto Sloane Sq. and another right onto Eaton Gate. Take a left onto Eaton Terr. Free Wi-Fi. Credit card for purchases over £10. Pints £3.50. Open M-Sa noon-11pm.
QUEEN’S HEAD PUB
25-27 Tryon St.
GLBT PUB
020 7589 0262 www.the1440.co.uk
Over 100 years old, The Queen’s Head (make of that what you will) is one of the oldest gay pubs in London. A friendly and convivial watering hole with an older clientele of both gay and straight patrons. Bingo once a month, karaoke every other week, and quiz night weekly.
Sloane Square. Exit the Tube and go straight down Sloane Sq. The street slanting gently left is King’s Rd. If you don’t want to walk the road (it’s manageable but long), the following buses and night buses service the area: #11, 19, 22, 211, 319, N11, N19, N22. Turn right onto Tryon St. Pint of lager £3-4.50. Bitters from £3.15. Pub grub £6.95-7.25, all-day breakfast £6.95. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10:30pm.
Holborn and Clerkenwell
Holborn is a pub town, and Clerkenwell is on the up-and-up. Look out for a mix of pleasant, old pubs and hip clubs, most of which can be found on Charterhouse St.
THE THREE KINGS
7 Clerkenwell Close
PUB
020 7253 0483
On warm evenings, patrons of The Three Kings line the curbs outside and drink their pints (£3.30-3.50) of Timothy Taylor, Staropramer, and Beck’s. Inside, customers sit in the arm chairs under the watchful gazes of luminaries like Woody Allen, Hunter S. Thompson, Smokey Robinson, and that fake rhino the pub has on the wall.
Farringdon. Right onto Cowcross St., right onto Farringdon, right onto Pear Tree Ct., right onto Clerkenwell Close. Open M-F noon-11pm, Sa. 5pm-11pm.
THE 3 TUNS
Houghton St.
STUDENT PUB
020 7955 7156
While this place is not rich in the atmosphere department, the 3 Tuns customers are rich in the money department, thanks to this pub’s dirt-cheap pints. This London School of Economics pub is frequented by (you guessed it) LSE students and is a good place to come if you want to meet university-aged people or play a game of pool in a sparsely furnished room where people drink beer from plastic cups.
Temple. Right onto Temple Pl., left onto Surrey St., cross the Strand. Continue onto Melbourne Pl., left onto Aldwych, right on Houghton St. Pints £2.10. Term-time hours: M, T and Th 10am-11pm, W 10am-midnight, F 10am-2am, Sa 9pm-3am. During school holidays, call for hours.
Kensington and Earl’s Court
JANET’S BAR
30 Old Brompton Rd.
BAR
020 7581 3160 janetsbar@yahoo.com
Janet’s Bar is all about spirits, in both senses of the word. Run by Janet herself, who knows most of the people in the bar and has organized something of a lively ex-pat community around the place, Janet’s Bar is a well-formed but instantly welcoming community. All-encompassing memorabilia, photos of club regulars, and the Red Sox and Yankees pennants that are closer than most fans would like. If the atmosphere doesn’t make you feel welcome, Beatles sing-alongs will.
South Kensington. As you exit, Old Brompton Rd. will be across from you. Though not wheelchair-accessible, a ramp can be arranged if you call in advance. £3 min. on credit cards. Bottle of beer around £4.50. Pints £5.95. Shots around £5. Mixed drinks £6.50-8.50. Bottle of wine from £18.50. M-W 11:45am-1:00am, Th 11:45am-1:30am, F 11:45pm-2:30am, Sa noon-2:30am, Su 2pm-1am. Live music Tu-Su after 9:30pm.
PIANO
106 Kensington High Street
PIANO BAR
020 7938 4664 www.pianokensington.com
If you ever dreamed of lying atop a piano in a dimly lit room while someone played sultry jazz, blues, rock and sing-along music, Piano will do you one better: you can eat on the piano, and there’s a different pianist every night of the week. Piano is a classy joint loaded with pictures of Old Blue Eyes (Frank Sinatra).
High Street Kensington. Turn right on Kensington High Street. £5 min. on credit cards. Most entrees £6.50-7. Bottle of beer £4.50. Glass of house red or white £4.50. Tu-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 4:30pm-11:30. Music starts at 6pm Tu-F, 8pm on Sa and the jazz trio goes on Su 8pm.
THE DRAYTON ARMS
153 Old Brompton Rd.
PUB
020 7835 2301 www.thedraytonarmssw5.co.uk
The Drayton Arms is a comfortable, well-kept pub with high ceilings and white string lights that amble up the tree trunk and soft red lights that
border the ceiling. Enjoy affordable beers around the fire place, and then go see a film or play in the black box theater on the second floor. Check the site for theater, sporting and film events in the upstairs theater.
Gloucester Rd. Turn right onto Gloucester Rd., turn right onto Old Brompton Rd. Average pint £3.20. Burgers £7-8.25. Sandwiches £4.25. Entrees £7.50-8.25. Open M-F 11am-midnight, Sa-Su 10m-midnight.
Marylebone and Regent’s Park