Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 27
THE EAGLE
8 Benet St.
PUB
01223 505 020
On a cool February 28th in 1953, Francis Crick and James Watson burst into the Eagle and announced to the scientists who were slowly killing their Nobel-prize-winning brain cells that they had discovered the “secret to life,” the double helix. The history of this charming bar doesn’t stop there. Toward the back, messages and squad numbers remain scorched on the ceiling where RAF men burnt them with lighters on the evenings before missions during the war. For your purposes, the bar has history, charm, and affordable alcohol.
Head toward Trumpington on King’s Parade and turn left onto Benet St. Credit card min. £5. Pints £3. Open M-Sa 10am-11pm, Su 11am-10:30pm.
CHAMPION OF THE THAMES
68 King St.
PUB
01223 352 043
The Champion of the Thames is the sort of pub with comfortably low ceilings and lamps that seem to shed only the warmest, most orange light. Decorated in oars and leather chairs and boasting two rotating guest pints which trend towards excellence, the Champion of the Thames is a great place to grab a brew.
Turn right off Sidney St. onto Jesus Ln., then turn right onto Malcolm St. and you’ll hit King St. Carlsberg and IPA pints £2.45. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F-Sa 11am-11pm.
THE ANCHOR
Silver St.
PUB
01223 353 554
Situated near the river, The Anchor has beautiful bay windows that look onto the water. Get a beer and watch self-punters slowly crash into each other and occasionally sink. The stained glass in the pub is also nice.
Off Trumpington. Pints £3-4. Open M-Th 10am-11pm, F-Sa 10am-midnight, Su 10am-11pm.
THE SALISBURY ARMS
76 Tenison Rd.
PUB
01223 576 363 www.thesalisburyarms.com
The Salisbury Arms is packed with eight exciting different lagers as well as unique bottled beers (banana bread beer, anyone?). High on local charm, the bar also has one of the more popular pub dogs in the area, Max, an adorable pooch with hair completely covering his eyes.
Go down Mill Rd. away from town center and turn right onto Tenison Rd. Min. credit card £10. Pints £3. Open M-Th noon-2:30pm and 5-11pm, F noon-2:30pm and 5pm-midnight, Su noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
MILL
14 Mill Ln.
PUB
01223 357 026
Mill is a great old-fashioned pub with excellent river views. They’re known for their specialty sausages, all delicious local concoctions like lamb and rosemary. Choose your own sausage and then your own mash (£6.50).
Go up Trumpington St. toward King’s Parade and turn left onto Mill Ln. Pints £3.50. Open daily noon-11pm. Kitchen open M-Sa noon-5pm.
SOUL TREE
1-6 Corn Exchange St.
CLUB
01223 303 755 www.soultree.co.uk
Soul Tree is the biggest club in Cambridge, with an impressive three floors of stylishly-graffitied walls. Come enjoy the loud music and dancing in the hip environment.
Go down Downing St. and turn right onto Corn Exchange. Cover cash-only. Credit card over £10. M international student night: cover £3-4, tequila shots £1, bottled beer £1.80. F before 11pm cover £4, after £6. Sa before 11pm £6, after £8. Mixed drinks £6. Bottled beer £3.50. Open M 10am-4pm, F 10am-4pm, Sa 10pm-4am.
FEZ CLUB CAMBRIDGE
15 Market Passage
CLUB
01223 519 224 www.cambridgefez.com
The Fez Club hosts the largest student night in Cambridge. With a striped cloth ceiling and faux-cave walls, it’s exotically decorated and hopping with activity.
Left onto Market St. off of Sidney St., right onto Market Passage. Cover cash-only. Inquire about a free membership card from inside and ask about student discounts. Cover M students before 11pm £3, after £4; adults before 11pm £4, after £5. Tu before 11pm £3; 11pm-midnight £4, after midnight £5. W £3 before 11pm, after £4; international students before 11pm £1, after £3. Th £6-8. F before midnight £5, after £7. Open M-Sa 10pm-3am, Su term-time 10pm-3am.
HIDDEN ROOMS
7a Jesus Ln.
BAR, CLUB
01223 514 777 www.hiddenthing.com
Tucked away under Pizza Express, the Hidden Rooms, while not as secretive as the name would suggest, is a hotspot for nightlife, especially for the more soul-oriented clubbers.
Head north on Sidney St. and turn right onto Jesus Ln. Credit card min. £10. Th is jazz night, F is soul night, Sa is house music. Cover for jazz before 10pm £2, after £5. Open M-Sa 3pm-12:30am. Club open Th-Sa.
THE GRANTA
14 Newnham Terr.
PUB
01223 505 016
The Granta has gorgeous river views, riverside outdoor seating, and, perhaps most beautiful of all, occasional deals on burgers and pints. Punting available from the dock just next to the pub.
Left onto Silver St. off of Trumpington, left onto Queen’s Rd. Credit card min. £5. Pints £3. Burger and pint £7. Open M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11am-11pm. Kitchen open M-Sa noon-10pm, Su noon-8pm.
ARTS AND CULTURE
SCUDAMORE’S
Quayside
RIVER CAM
01223 359 750 www.punting.co.uk
Punting is one of those classic Cambridge activities that can’t be skipped—not unlike getting soused on Pimm’s and falling in the Cam. These vaguely rectangular boats (punts) can be rented for chauffeured tours up and down the river Cam. More adventurous (or possibly idiotic) boaters can try their hand at punting. Simply stand at the back of the boat and thrust the pole into the bottom of the river. As you remove the pole, twist it to ensure it doesn’t get stuck and drag you into the water as your boat moves on without you.
Right off Bridge St. underneath Magdalene Bridge. Self-hire £18 per hr. plus a £90 deposit taken in the form of an imprint of your credit or debit card. Student ID £14 and a £90 deposit. Guided tours £15, concessions £13.50, under 12 £7.50. Open daily May-Aug 9am-10pm, Sept-Nov 9am-8pm, Nov-Easter 9:30am-5pm, Easter-mid-May 9am-6pm.
ARTS PICTUREHOUSE
38-39 St. Andrew’s St.
CENTRAL CAMBRIDGE
0871 902 5720 www.picturehouses.co.uk
Just above one of the raging bars of Cambridge, the Arts Picturehouse screens art flicks, independent films, classics, and more popular movies while its downstairs partner serves alcohol.
A continuation of Regent St. Off-peak M-F until 5pm; peak is all day Sa and Su and every other day after 5pm. M £7; Tu-F before 5pm £7, after £8; Sa-Su £8. Students £1 off. Box office opens 30min. before first show, closes 15min. after the start of the last. Phone line open daily 9:30am-8:30pm.
ADC THEATRE
Park St.
CHESTERTON
01223 300 085 www.adctheatre.com
Short for “Arts Dramatic Club,” the ADC was a student-run theater for a long time, specializing in new writing and university productions, including frequent performances by the Cambridge Footlights, the comedy group that launched Hugh Laurie, Steven Fry, and John Cleese.
Left off Jesus Ln. when you’re heading away from town center. M-F £8, concessions £6; Sa-Su £10/£8. Prices subject to change. Box office open Tu 12:30pm-showtime, W 3pm-showtime, Th 12:30pm-showtime, F-Sa 3pm-showtime.
CAMBRIDGE ARTS THEATRE
Peas Hill
CHESTERTON
01223 503 333 www.cambridgeartstheatre.com
This popular Cambridge theater puts on a mix of music, straight plays, comedies, operas, ballet, contemporary dance, and occasional shows from the Cambridge Footlights. Basically, everything.
Head towards Trumpington St. on King’s Parade, turn left onto Benet St. and left onto Peas Hill. Tickets £10-35. Open M-Sa summer noon-6pm, winter noon-8pm.
CAMBRIDGE CORN EXCHANGE
Wheeler St.
CHESTERTON
01223 357 851 www.cornex.co.uk
Probably the largest music venue i
n Cambridge, the Cambridge Corn Exchange presents many big name musical acts coming through Cambridge.
Head toward Trumpington St. on King’s Parade, turn left onto Benet St., and go straight until Benet becomes Wheeler St. Prices vary. Occasional student discounts, depending on the show. Open M-Sa 10am-6pm.
SHOPPING
BOOKS FOR AMNESTY
46 Mill Rd.
BOOKS
01223 362 496 www.amnesty.org.uk/bookshops
This second-hand charity bookshop is cluttered with an eclectic selection of donated books. The prices are low, making this an excellent place to stock up on road reads. The shelf near the counter houses rare or unique books and is worth a look.
Mill Rd. Open M-F 11:30am-6pm, Sa 9:30am-6pm.
BRIAN JORDAN MUSIC BOOKS FACSIMILES
10 Green St.
SHEET MUSIC, BOOKS ON MUSIC
01223 322 368 www.brianjordanmusic.co.uk
An old music store, Brian Jordan specializes in elegant editions of classical sheet music as well as a fantastic selection of musical literature.
Go up King’s Parade until it becomes Trinity St. and follow it until it becomes St. John’s St.; turn right onto Green St. Open M-Sa 9:30am-6pm.
HAUNTED BOOKSHOP
9 St. Edward’s Passage
BOOKS, ANTIQUITIES
01223 312 913 www.sarahkeybooks.co.uk
Legend has it that a woman in white smelling of violets paces the stairway of the Haunted Bookshop. Fact has it that the bookshop contains a massive collection of age-old, elegant editions of a wide variety of literature and children’s books. Well worth a look for any bibliophile.
Go up King’s Parade toward Trinity St. and turn right onto St. Edward’s Passage. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Tourist Information Centre at Peas Hill sells National Express tickets, discounted punting tickets, sightseeing bus tickets, and accommodations bookings. Disabled visitors to Cambridge can get an access guide for the city from the TIC. (0871 226 8006 www.visitcambridge.org Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-3pm.)
• TOURS: Several walking tours leave from the Tourist Information Centre. The Guided Tour features King’s College and Queens’ College. ( £11, concessions £9.50, children £6. Leaves M-Sa 11am and 1pm, Su and bank holidays 1pm.)
• BUDGET TRAVEL OFFICE: STA Travel. (38 Sidney St. 0871 702 9809 www.statravel.co.uk Open M-Th 10am-7pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 11am-5pm.)
• BANKS: Banks and ATMs line St. Andrew’s St.
• BIKE RENTAL: City Cycle Hire. (61 Newnham Road. 01223 365 629 www.citycyclehire.com £6 per 4 hr., £9 per 8hr., £10 per 24hr., £15 per 2-3 days, £20 per 4-7 days, £30 per 2 weeks, £65 per 9 weeks. Open Easter-Oct M-F 9am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-5pm; winter M-F 9am-5:30pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Jaffa Net Cafe. (22 Mill Rd. 01223 308 380 £1 per hr. Open daily noon-midnight.)
• POST OFFICE : Bureau de Change. (9-11 St.Andrew’s St. Open M 9am-5:30pm, T 9:30am-5:30pm, W-Sa 9am-5:30pm.)
• POST CODE: CB2 3AA.
Emergency!
• POLICE: Parkside Police Station on Parkside (0345 456 4564).
• HOSPITAL: Addenbrookes Hospital. (Hills Rd. by the intersection of Hills Rd. and Long Rd. 01223 245 151.)
Getting There
By Train
Trains depart from Station Road. (National Rail Enquiries 0845 7484 950 Ticket office open M-Sa 5:10am-11pm, Su 7am-10:55pm.) Nonstop trains to London King’s Cross ( £19.10. 48min., 2 per hr.) and to Ely. ( £3.70. 20min., 4 per hr.)
By Bus
The bus station is on Drummer St. ( Ticket office open M-Sa 9am-5:30pm.) Airport Shuttles run from Parkside. Trains to London Victoria ( £14.40. 2hr., every hr.); Gatwick ( £32. 4hr., every 2hr.); Heathrow ( £29.70. 3hr., every hr.); Stansted ( £13. 50min., every hr.); to Oxford. (Stagecoach Express £11. 3hr., every 30min.)
Getting Around
By Bus
Buses run from Stagecoach (01223 423 578). CitiBus runs from stops throughout town, including some on St. Andrew’s Street, Emmanuel Street, and the train station. Dayrider Tickets (Unlimited travel for 1 day. £3.40) can be purchased on the bus, but for longer stays, you can buy a Megarider ticket. (Unlimited travel for 7 days. £11.50.)
By Taxi
For a taxi, call Cabco. (01223 525 555 Open daily 24hr.)
edinburgh
131
It’s a city that moves. Visitors are constantly streaming through Scotland’s capital, and the population of the city swells by roughly one million during the month of August. Festival season, or “Fest” as it’s known to locals, is a time of both great joy and chagrin, as free entertainment reigns supreme but walking down the street takes nearly half an hour. Even when Edinburgh isn’t party central, its residents aren’t afriad to sing its praises over a “pint and a blether” (Scottish-speak for drink and a chat). A majestic city, it’s one of those places where you watch the sun go down from the top of a hill and wonder just how you managed to wander into such a spectacular place. However you did it, keep going: Edinburgh was made for it.
ORIENTATION
Edinburgh’s most famous neighborhoods (Old Town, New Town) are easily divisible, as they are separated by a large gully which houses Waverly Station and Princes’s Street Gardens. This ravine is bisected by three bridges: Waverly Bridge, North Bridge, and The Mound. Stockbridge is to the north of New Town (walk as if you were heading to Leith and the sea) and Haymarket and Dalry are in the area west of New Town. The Meadows, Tolcross, and the West End are all over the hill from Old Town, off toward the south end of town.
Old Town
It’s heralded by the giant castle that sits atop the rocky crags that divide Old Town from New Town. It’s winding streets are surrounded by four-and-five-story Georgian buildings that house everything from storytelling centers to party-driven hostels. Old Town is where it’s at. It’s where you’ll take the most pictures, it’s where you’ll drink, sleep, shop, and eat. You’ll be hard pressed to find another neighborhood some days—there’s just so much to do. However, everyone else knows this too, so make sure to hit up Old Town when you’re feeling particularly ready for a tourist onslaught.
New Town
New Town isn’t actually that new. It would have been new when it was designed by James Craig in the 1760s, but by this point it’s down pat. Following a simple, grid-like pattern, it’s bordered by Queen Street to the north and Prince Street to the south. George Street, a central thoroughfare, runs through the middle. The various intersecting thoroughfare have branches of their own, usually smaller streets with housing or shops. Rose Street, which houses the majority of the pubs in New Town, is one of these.
Stockbridge
Put on your best polo, becase we’re heading to the Edinburgh Country Club—Stockbridge. Full of the top tier of upper crust of society, it’s a bit like a separate city, with its own restaruants, drinking, and way of life. Forgot your monocle? No worries: find one among the posh leftovers sold in the Stockbridge charity shops. As we always say, if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em; if you can’t join ‘em, wear their cast-offs. When you’re not scrounging through the thrift stores, you can meander through the streets, pop into a cafe, stop off at a nice restaurant. or just wander on down through the Water of Leith.
Haymarket and Dalry
Haymarket and Dalry are not that pretty, at least compared to the rest of Edinburgh. This may be why it is home to some of the city’s cheaper housing. A few good food stops are to be found, and those looking for a night out in this area will find cheap drinks. Be warned, there are some Old Guard pubs here that aren’t the friendliest.
Tollcross and West End
Owned and dominated by the huge expanse of green that is the meadows, the West End is nevertheless right in the middle of the city, but you’ll be seeing far fewer tourists out this way, except during festival time, when it’s impossible to open your eyes without seeing a tourist. Lothian Road is home
to several great pubs, and continuing up to Home Street will take you to the local cinema, The Cameo. The University of Edinburgh is isolated enough from the city that none of the pubs or bars in the area are student-dominated, but you’ll find several full of a distinctly younger crowd. If you fancy it, take a putter and a chipping iron and head out to the Bruntsfield Links, where you can play on a 30+ chipping course. Get out to Tolcross and the West End. You’ll feel better with less tourists around, and the locals will be more kindly disposed to you for the very same reason.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Possibly more so than any other city in the UK, Edinburgh’s accommodations options are defined by its neighborhoods. In New Town, you’re looking at guesthouses and lodges on the upper end of the price range. Stockbridge has virtually no accommodations to speak of. Old Town is home to the majority of the hostels in town, all of which are right in the center of the action and, for those who wish to keep their distance from the Grassmarket, hostels and hotels fill Haymarket and Dalry, and Tolcross and the West End.