But ultimately Nové Město’s old out-charms its new. Having escaped the facelifts that plasticized much of Old Town, Nové Město still offers travelers some authentic Czech experiences: getting lost on a crumbling street, sharing beers at an exclusively Czech-speaking bar, or eating like a king for just a few dollars.
For details on Malá Strana map, click here
Stare Město
Despite being overrun with tourists and dog dung while distinctly lacking in authentic Czech culture, Old Town still enchants like a princess doped on charm pills. There’s Old Town Hall, or what’s left of it after sore-loser Nazis bombed it on the war’s last day. Then there’s the Astronomical Clock Tower, a mathematical wonder tracking the planet’s motions. Our Lady Before Tyn keeps the bones of the guy who first described those motions. Last but not least, there’s Estates Theater where Mozart “premiered” Don Giovanni. You’ll have to read this history between the lines (well, between the crystal shops and marionette stores), but even though wiser travelers will eat and sleep in Prague’s less besieged quarters, no one—not even he who passes through Prague for a mere hour—should miss the Old Town.
Josefov
Josefov is the Jewish district of Prague whose main attractions are the six synagogues and the old cemetery. It may seem surprising that such a large, clearly marked Jewish district survives in post-World War II Europe; in fact, during the Nazi occupation Hitler demarcated the area as a future glorified museum of a soon-to-be extinct race and stored pillaged Jewish artifacts there. Because much of the area was demolished in the late 19th century and never restored, the 20th century Art Nouveau architecture is tinged by the the district’s lingering medieval quality. While it is certainly worth a visit to the synagogues, it must also be noted that the area has become somewhat of a tourist trap, with over-priced restaurants and souvenir peddlers.
Malá Strana
Malá Strana, literally “Lesser Town,” is so-called for its placement below the castle, but geographically Malá Strana continues past the Castle, all the way down to what would be Vinohrady on the East side. Malá Strana’s length, combined with its assortment of yuppie artistic types, make it something of a hodge-podge district. Crowds storm the castle in the northern area of the district, but the sparser southern regions host some of the trendiest digs in the city. The other ace in Malá Strana’s hole is Petřín Hill, Prague’s “Olympus.” Petřín has the highest point in Prague and is so full of flower gardens that you’ll think you’ve tripped into one of your sister’s dumb romance books. Finally, if your doctor ordered you to see a lot of public art, you can “fill” that prescription in Malá Strana. If he ordered you to avoid unnecessary metaphors, then don’t read the previous sentence.
Hradčany
Prague’s castle district is located above the rest of the city, providing some of the best panoramas and the biggest crowds. While a trip to the top is obligatory, it might be worth keeping an open mind and a resistance to the magnetic force of the crowds, as some of the quaintest architecture and most serene streets in the city are found several meters in the opposite direction of the cathedral on Novy Svet. A grassy knoll hidden by trees above Novy Svet also offers an angle of the gothic cathedral that few tourists have witnessed.
Žižkov
Žižkov is a bohemian paradise with enough graffiti (or “street art”) murals sprayed on abandoned garage doors and bars to make even the happy-go-lucky feel a little emo. Perhaps the biggest draw for average tourists is the freaky TV tower that looks like a needle in a stack of crumbs. Home to one of Prague’s universities, the quiet, hilly streets are reminiscent of Paris’s Latin Quarter and parts of San Francisco, but Žižkov’s are set apart from them by the cobblestones on every path.
Vinohrady
Legend has it that in days of yore, Princess Libuse, a probably-fictional-princess, stood on a hill at Vinohrady’s Vyšehrad fortress and foresaw the glory of Prague. Fact has it that the first King of Bohemia landed here in the 11th century and ruled here until Charles IV moved across the river. Let’s Go has it that Vinhorady is a relaxed neighborhood with the best green spaces and biergartens in the city, a lively gay district, and some of the best and cheapest eats. The Vyšehrad cultural monument should really not be missed since it contains the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, visible from nearly any point in Prague, and the Vyšehrad cemetery, which houses Dvorak’s bones and the oldest Roman chapel in the city. Additionally the neighborhood is a great setting for a beautiful afternoon walk with a great view of the river and a better view of Czech kiddies swapping tongues along the fortress wall. For the best sweets in the entire city—maybe the entire world—try out Vinohrady’s Café Šlagr.
For details on Hradčany map, click here
Holešovice
Without question, the most underappreciated neighborhood in all of Prague is Holešovice, which has some of the coolest sites that aren’t just enjoyable because a guidebook tells you they’re important. From Cross Club, which might be the best club in Europe, to Křižík’s Fountain, an incredible water and light show accompanied by ballet, to Prague’s biggest open air market, these sites are alive, fresh and full of Czech youth.
Dejvice
Dejvice is mostly for the old and tired or the middle-aged and child-bearing. It’s no surprise that one can barely find a tourist on the streets of Dejvice, because unlike the undiscovered parts behind Prague Castle, this district simply has little to offer the foreigner. Apart from a few good restaurants, most of which are light-years beyond a backpacker’s budget, a cool fountain, and a gigantic flowery roundabout, the neighborhood is best left for those to come: the area is under construction, so who knows what the future will hold for Dejvice.
Smichov
Smichov is a area of Prague’s fifth district that boasts a giant shopping complex, several quality restaurants that are far less expensive than anything found in central Prague, the Staropramen brewery, and lush greenery that provide visitors with a welcome and off-the-beaten path respite from the main attractions and noise of the Old Town streets.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Accommodations in Prague differ greatly. Thanks to the openning of some new “chic” hostels throughout the city (Mosaic House, Sir Toby’s, Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn), travelers willing to pay a bit extra (or sometimes, even not) can find digs with full bedding, in-house restaurants and top quality Wi-Fi. Those who want that hostel-specific thrill of wondering if your roomate’s going to kill you won’t be disappointed, as there are many “earthy” options throughout the city. In general, Stare Město costs more and offers less, while Nové Město costs less and offers more. Several large hostels in Holešovice start resembling hotels (or fantastic, cushy communes) but require a Metro ride to visit sites, and might be a bit out of the way for most travellers, especially lazy ones. Finally, a note on prices. The prices included are simply approximates. Most Prague hostels price with an algorithm that takes into account the time of year, the fullness of the hostel and the current rate of demand for rooms. This system rewards those who book in advance.
Nové Město New Town
MOSAIC HOUSE
Odborů 4
HOSTEL, HOTEL
725 84 67 73 www.mosaichouse.com
Mosaic House, Prague’s newest and most luxurious hostel, understands what makes hostels great: a restaurant/bar/stage-venue with live music, a carpeted lounge space with bean bags, and Wi-Fi that’s fast and omnipresent. But what makes Mosaic the (pre-hooker) Tiger Woods of Prague hostels is how it improves the tiny annoyances of hostels. Bunks in large dorms have privacy curtains, lighting is indirect instead of overpowering, and the rooms have soft beds and bountiful power outlets. Even Mosaic’s few faults come in pursuit of noble goals, like lights over-eagerly shut off to save power. Still, you gotta respect that this hostel has the only greywater heat recycling system in the Czech Republic. Hotel rooms are 4-star, which bodes well for hostel rooms, which are basically the same with bunks.
&nbs
p; B: Karlovo namesti. From the station, head north along the west edge of the park. At the northwest corner of the park, take a left at Odborů. Netbooks 40-50Kč per hr. Women-only room available. Non-smoking. 4 computers available 1Kč per minute. Breakfast 150Kč. Towel 100Kč deposit, free for hotel guests. Lockers included. Safe box at desk. Dorms 250-550Kč. Doubles (hotel room) 1700-1900/room. Reception 24hr. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 11am.
MISS SOPHIE’S
Melounová 3
HOSTEL
293 303 0530 www.miss-sophies.com
A bit out of the way and a bit more expensive than the cheapest hostel, Miss Sophie’s is nevertheless the best bang for your buck in Nové Město. Genuinely cool modern designs including mural-sized original artwork line the newly-painted walls. Steel and glass showers are classier than what you’ll find in most hotels. With polished wood floors, comfortable leather couches, flatscreen TV, and DVD library, it’s easy to forget this is an accomodation for budget travelers.
C: IP Pavlova. Take 1st left from platform, then follow Katerinska to 1st right, onto Melounová. Wi-Fi included and 2 computers with Internet available. Kitchens in some rooms. Most staff members are students. Dorms 410Kč; singles 1150Kč. Apartment 1390Kč. Towels 30Kč. 5% discount with ISIC student card if booked online. 4% additional charge if you pay with a credit card. Reception 24hr. No curfew. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 11am.
prague didn’t get the memo
You know, the one for buildings that goes something like “brown, black, white or tan, please!” All over this cramped and faded city, the story—the more colorful story—is the same.
Prague just didn’t feel the need to bow down to the social norms that dictate which colors a legitimate office building can be painted. Maybe it was a reaction to the communist-era repression of expression, or maybe it’s just the Czech effort to offset the Slavic gloom. Whatever the reason, a randomly chosen Prague street wears mostly pinks, yellows, greens and purples, leaving earth tones to its less-daring Metropolitan colleagues.
The real shame is that the city hasn’t had a decent paint job since the 1960s, and back then, photographs were taken in black and white.
However, the future may be bright! Tourist boom profits have already done wonders for Prague’s impeccably refurbished cobblestone streets, and if tourist swarms continue to descend, we might soon see Prague returned to its former Easter Egg glory.
CHILI HOSTEL
Pštrossova 7, 110 00 Praha 1
HOSTEL
60 311 9113 www.chili.dj
Chili Hostel can’t be beat when it comes to price and community. Large, comfortable common rooms, kitchens, and dining areas play host to nightly multi-national pregames, supported by the front desk’s ample beverage service. Rooms are bunk-heavy and lack adornment besides the occasional chair, but bathrooms are kept very clean and well-stocked.
B: Národní trida. From the station, walk south on Spálená, make a right on Myslíkova, and then another right on Pštrossova. Non-smoking. Wi-Fi included and is reliable on most floors. Very large breakfast 89Kč. Linens, towels, and lockers included; laundry available for stays of 5 days or more. Dorms from 200Kč; singles 400Kč. Key deposit 200Kč. Reception 24hr. Quiet time starts at 2:30am. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am.
AZ HOSTEL
Jindřišské 5, 110 Praha 1
HOSTEL
22 424 1664 www.hostel-az.cz
With large rooms at reasonable prices, AZ Hostel is especially ideal for travelers looking to keep to themselves. Full linens come with every room, and no rooms have bunk beds. All the rooms have wood floors and free lockers. No private showers available. Passably comfortable common room has a small TV and free coffee and tea.
A or B: Mustek. From the station, walk up the square toward the National Museum, then make a left on Jindřišské; the hostel will be on your left. Laundry service 190Kč per load. Computer use 20Kč per 10min. Wi-Fi and lockers included. Power adapters available upon request. Dorms 320Kč; singles 950Kč. Reception 24hr. Check-in noon. Check-out 10:30am.
THE WELCOME PRAGUECENTER HOSTEL
Žitna 17, 11000 Prague 1
HOSTEL
22 432 0202 www.bed.cz
Possibly the worst-named hostel in the city, Welcome Praguecenter provides some impressively luxurious private rooms for, in some cases, dormitory prices. Located on the second floor of an apartment building, its rooms resemble apartments with glass tables and king-sized beds. Refrigerators and safe boxes are available in each room. Small bathrooms, and the lack of common spaces and a kitchen are the only downfalls of this hostel...except for the name, of course.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head away from the river down Žitna. Reservations 1-2 weeks in advance recommended. Sheets and towels included. No breakfast. All private rooms. 400Kč for bed with shared facilites. 500Kč for bed with private facilties. Check-in 9am-9pm (call ahead if you’ll be later). Check-out by 11:30am. No parties after 10pm.
Stare Město
OLD PRAGUE HOSTEL
Benedikstská 2
HOSTEL
224 829 058 www.oldpraguehostel.com
Run by the same guys as Prague Square hostel, Old Prague just has a homier, more welcoming feeling to it. Perhaps because an old-school, exposed elevator services the hostel’s five stories, but either way, Old Prague does a few things better than its sister hostel. Perhaps most importantly, its desk sells beer in addition to soft drinks. Common areas also have flatscreen TVs and comfortable couches. Rooms are nice and roomy. Beds sit a little close to the ground, and some of the rooms have mental-asylum padded doors, but the brightly colored artwork keeps the experience interesting.
B: Náměstí Republiky. From the station, walk north on Revoluční. Take a left on Dlouhá and another quick left onto Benedikstská. Non-smoking. Breakfast, towels, linens, lockers, adapters, irons, and hair dryers included. Wi-Fi available on the mezzanine and in the common area. Key deposit 100Kč. 8-bed dorms 295-430Kč; 4-bed dorms 431-539Kč; doubles 539-700Kč. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am.
PRAGUE SQUARE HOSTEL
Melantrichova 10
HOSTEL
224 240 859 www.praguesquarehostel.com
A well-kept joint in a well-frequented part of town, Prague Square Hostel is uncommonly generous with travel amenities. Unfortunately, it also suffers from some typical Old Town maladies. No laundry service and a sparsely stocked desk store mean travelers are on their own. The rooms are clean, if at times a bit small and the sheets are strangely, but cheerfully, colorful.
A or B: Můstek. From the station, head north on na Můstku and continue on it as it turns into Melantrichova. The hostel will be on your right. Non-smoking. Hair dryers, irons, adapters, towels, linens, lockers, and breakfast (8am-10am) included. Free computer access and Wi-Fi in common spaces. 8-bed dorms 300-450Kč; 4-bed 300-530Kč. Singles 645-750Kč; doubles 950-1250Kč. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am.
Hradčany
ROMANTIK HOTEL U RAKA
Černínská 10
HOTEL
220 511 100 www.romantikhotel-uraka.cz
Housed in the only timbered building in Prague, this romantic little hotel is nestled in a quiet corner of Hradčany. This is a giant splurge for a backpacker, but perfect for a couple in search of a magical stay, providing the best of both worlds: a forest escape from all that is the tourist influx of Prague, while being just a skip down the cobblestone street from it. The hotel is run by a family of genial artists who are only too excited to make your visit to Prague better than the movies.
Tram #22: Brusnice. From the tram, walk across the street and onto the path that leads towards the trees. Walk down the giant staircase and the hotel will be on the left directly at the base of the stairs. Breakfast included. Singles 2280Kč; doubles from 3674Kč. Reception 8am-10pm. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 11am.
Žižkov
HOSTEL ELF
Husitská 11
HOSTEL
222 540 963 www.h
ostelelf.com
The perfect place to stay for those who wouldn’t mind crashing on a couch in a friend’s apartment that’s covered (intentionally) in graffiti. The common room is the center of hostel life, with seven enormous, thoroughly lived-in couches and a communal kitchen nearby. Clean and simply furnished dorms with shared hall baths.
Trams #5, 9, or 26: Husinecká Tram #stop. From the Tram #stop, follow Husinecká until you reach the square and then make a left at Orebitská, which will run into Husinecká right in front of the hostel. Bike storage available. Breakfast included. 6-to-9 bed dorms 370Kč; 11-bed dorm 340Kč; singles with bath 1230Kč. Prices go down in low season. 5% discounts in dorms for students. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am.
Vinohrady
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 39