CZECH INN
Francouská 76
HOSTEL
267 26 76 00 www.czech-inn.com
Justifiably billing itself as a “designer hostel,” Czech Inn takes pains to distinguish itself from the rest of the humdrum hostel world. The lobby and bar areas serve double duty as an art gallery, and every six weeks the hostel changes the art and throws a “gallery opening,” complete with wine and snacks. That appreciation for detail extends into the rooms, which have sleek single-sheet glass showers with polished concrete floors.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk southeast along Francouská. The hostel will be on your right. Wi-Fi and lockers included. 8 computers available; 1Kč per min. Towels 30Kč with a 100Kč deposit. Breakfast 120Kč at check-in, 140Kč the morning of. Dinner 120-180Kč. Beer 33-55Kč. The entire hostel is smoke-free. Dorms 295-472Kč. Singles 1540-2282Kč; doubles 1320-1694Kč. Apartments 1650-2544Kč. Reception 24hr.
Holešovice
SIR TOBY’S HOSTEL
Dělnická 24
HOSTEL
246 032 610 www.sirtobys.com
A quirky, comfortable, feels-like-your-mom-was-involved-in-preparing-your-room kind of hostel where details matter, Sir Toby’s combines the efficiency and cleanliness of a large hostel with the intimacy and community of a small one. To start, Sir Toby’s room’s are identified by respective theme rather than numbers, and they’re decorated accordingly. The quirks continue into the grill-equipped back garden where the tables are all old sewing machines. The pub downstiars (Beer 20-35Kč) hosts subtitled Czech movie screenings, live concerts, and DJs on a regular basis. There’s a hot, all-you-can-shove-down-your-pie-hole breakfast (100Kč) from 8:30-11:30am, while Afghani or Czech homemade dinner plates are available nightly (100-120Kč). Guests can also use the modern communal kitchen. Brochures, signs, and homemade guidebooks in the lobby will keep you informed, since you, like Steve Tyler during the filming of Armageddon, “Don’t Want To Miss a Thing.” But best of all, Sir Toby’s is that rarest of things: a hostel without any of the classic hostel musk.
C: Vltavská. From the station, take any Tram #that departs to the left. Ride it 2 stops to Dělnická. Walk to the traffic lights and turn left onto Dělnická. Lockers included. Towels 15Kč with a 200Kč deposit. Laundry service costs 200Kč, self-serve 100Kč. Wi-Fi is free, and 5 computers are available at 1 Kč per min. Dorm 220-400Kč, women’s dorm 400-560Kč. Singles 950Kč; doubles 1200Kč. Reception 24hr. Buzz to enter.
PRAGUE PLUS
Prívozní 1, 170 00 Praha 7
HOSTEL
22 051 0046 www.plusprague.com
A large and tightly-run establishment, Prague Plus feels a bit like foreign summer camp for students. Excitement revolves around the “restaurant,” which is secret talk for “enormous effing dining hall” that includes a nightly DJ, a full service bar (beer 40Kč, mixed drinks 80-120Kč), a full service grill (85-150Kč), 5 flatscreen TVs, two tricked out with Nintendo Wiis, a pool and foosball tables, and plenty of horizontal surfaces for getting friendly (wink!). Back at the hotel, a swimming pool and nightly movie screenings let the quiet folk interact quietly. Women-only rooms include hairdryers and vanity sets. The breakfast buffet (100Kč) consists of meats, beans, eggs, and cheeses. Prague Plus is one of the best handicap-accessible accommodations in Prague. Before you leave the lobby, say hello to Boris the turtle, who is not dead, but “just sleeping.”
C: Nadraží Holešovice. From the station, go 1 stop on any Tram #heading north, or just walk down Ortenovo Namesti in the direciton of the Hotel Plaza Alta. Laundry 170 Kč. Breakfast 100 Kč. Linens and lockers included. Free Wi-Fi in lobby and restaurant plus a few free-to-use computers in the lobby and restaurant. Non-smoking. Sept-June mixed dorms 260-380Kč, women only 300-420Kč; singles 1000Kč; doubles 500Kč. July-Aug 1400Kč/700Kč/380-570Kč/400-590Kč. Reception 24hr. Check in 3pm. Check out 10am.
Smichov
ARPACAY HOSTEL
Radlická 76
HOSTEL
251 552 297 www.arpacayhostel.com
This hostel—a little ways from central Prague, but a pleasant escape from the throngs of tourist shops—will provide you with a quiet evening for well-rested repose. The hostel has two buildings across from each other and boasts giant breakfast rooms, as well as guest kitchens on each floor. The red building has a terrace on the roof where you can take in the view of Prague and beyond.
Trams #12, 14, 20: Plzeňka. From the tram, walk toward the park and up the stairs, across the train tracks. At the intersection, keep walking straight up the hill on Radlická and look for the Arpacay sign on the right. Breakfast, linens, and towels included. Computers available. Smoking deck that overlooks much of the city. 3- to 5-bed dorms from 300Kč. Reception open 7am-midnight. Check-in flexible. Check-out 10am.
HOSTEL 5
Plzeňská 540/23
HOSTEL
257 324 908 http://www.hostel5.pl/
A low-key, simple, clean hostel where the selling point is no bunks. Other than that, the place is cheap and has a tiny “terrace” with basically one plastic table and a few chairs. A good option for groups because it offers highly discounted deals, as well as breakfast, for over 15 people.
C: Andel. Walk up Plzeňská about 300m. Terrace, kitchen, and linens included. 2- to 5-bed dorms 290-320Kč; singles 250-535Kč. Reception open 10am-noon and 1pm-11pm.
SIGHTS
Nové Město
SAINT HENRY TOWER
Jindřišské ulice, Praha 1
BELFRY
22 223 2429 www.jindrisskavez.cz
Originally built from wood in 1475, then again from stone in 1599, the 67.7m tower was designed as a belfry for the nearby Saint Henry’s Church. At one time 10 bells rang out from the tower, but neglect and damage over the years has left just one. The remaining 723kg, 101cm diameter bell rings on the hour and half hour. In recent years, the middle portions of the tower have been ingeniously returned to public use as a restaurant, museum, whiskey bar, and several galleries. Admission gets you into the museum and galleries, but it’s worth taking the stairs to peek at the tiny restaurant’s tables, which are built around the tower’s scaffolding system.
A or B: Můstek: follow Jindřišské to the end of the street. Elevator access to all but the last 14 steps. Adult 80Kč. Student 55Kč. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm.
NEW TOWN HALL
Karlovo náměstí 1/23, 120 00 Praha 2
TOWN HALL
22 494 8225 www.nrpraha.cz
A building whose history far outsexes its architecture, the New Town Hall served as the administrative headquarters of New Town for nearly 400 years. The Hall’s foundations were laid by Charles IV, the granddaddy of Czech modernity. In 1419, a bunch of angry Hussites threw the town counselors out the top story windows in the first Defenestration. While the hall has a few furnished parlors open for viewing, the building’s real thrill comes in climbing the seemingly endless series of wooden platforms leading to the lookout tower. Besides the amazing views of of Prague, the top platforms hold a giant bell, which was described as being “currently broken.” It was later discovered that this meant it had been broken for the past 200 years.
B: Karlovo náměstí. Exit the station and find the giant tower at the north end of the park. Admission 30Kč. Cash only. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
WENCESLAS SQUARE
CITY SQUARE
Originally built by its namesake as a horse market, Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square) now sells everything but. American-style commercial department stores and historic hotels compete for attention with the true stars of the walk—the hot dog and sauerkraut vendors selling up to six different types of sausage. In the olden days, butchers would come selling their wares, and that tradition of sausage excellence has held to the present. Up at the top of the boulevard, check out the National Museum, which in addition to being one of the more beautiful buildings in Prague—especially at night—also contains some impressive zoological and paleological
exhibits, mostly in Czech. Also noteworthy are the displayed medals of former president Václav Havel.
A or B: Můstek or Můsem. Students 100-150Kč.
ALFONS MUCHA MUSEUM
Panská 7, 110 00 Praha
MUSEUM
22 421 6415 www.mucha.cz
This medium-sized exhibit focuses on Mucha’s works, and is a good introduction for those unfamiliar with the Art Nouveau pioneer and all-around Czech hero. The exhibit pays particular attention to Mucha’s time in Paris (1887-1904) during which he painted the famous portraits of Sarah Bernhardt that Americans will likely recognize. For the student price, anyone even remotely interested should check it out. Without the student discount, pre-existing appreciation for Mucha is recommended. Don’t miss the hilariously over-the-top video about Mucha’s construction of the “Slav Epic.”
A or B: Můstek. Walk up Václavské náměstí toward the St. Wenceslas statue. Go left on Jindřišské and left again on Panská. Admission 160Kč. Students and seniors 80Kč. Guide sheet 30Kč. Open daily 10am-6pm.
OUR LADY OF THE SNOW
Jungmannovo náměstí 18, 110 00 Praha 1
CHURCH
Kostel Panny Marie Sněžně (Our Lady of the Snow) remains one of the most oddly-shaped churches in Central Europe. When commissioned by Charles IV in 1347, the church was intended to be the largest in Prague, with three naves and 30m tall ceilings. When the Franciscans arrived to repair the building in 1603, damage from the Hussite Wars prevented them from carrying out the original plan, and only one nave remained along with the impressively large ceilings. Check the chapel door for a schedule of services in order to listen in on incredible organ music against the sweet the voices of the regular parishioners. While you listen to the music, let yourself wonder how they painted such intricate stars on the ceiling. Don’t go without checking the miniature chapel on the church’s right side, and the exhibits from local artists displayed in the abbey.
A or B: Můstek. From the station, walk up Wenceslas Sq. and then turn left on Jungmannovo náměstí; the entrance to the church is behind the statue. Open daily 6am-7:30pm. Su services at 9am, 10:15am, 11:30am and 6:30pm.
U FLECKŮ
Křemencova 11, 110 00 Praha 1
MUSEUM AND BREWERY
22 49 340 1920 www.efleku.eu
Skip the tacky, overpriced restaurant if you can help it, and take a guided walk of the museum or an hour-long tour of the brewery. Both are obnoxiously designed to convince guests how important the U Flecků Brewery actually is, but the over-aggrandized tales and obsession over uninteresting U Flecků details more persuasively argue the opposite. Still, it’s worth visiting if you want to see old brewing techniques without trecking out to to the brewery at Pilsen.
B: Národní trida. From the station, walk south on Spálená, make a right on Myslíkova, and then another right on Opatovická. Follow it as it cuves around. When it hits Křemencova, take the second left. Museum tour 100Kč. Brewery tour 160 Kč. Groups of 10 or more get a 30% discount. Credit cards discouraged, and no discounts will apply if used. Tours available by reservation only M-F 10am-4pm. Sa and Su tours must be accompanied by a meal at the restaurant. Restaurant open daily 9am-11pm.
FRANCISCAN GARDENS
GARDEN
A beautiful couple of acres of land, this little oasis between Our Lady of the Snow and the bustling St. Wenceslas square offers a serene escape from the howl of the city. Massive strange light-bulb-like street lamps line the walk, but unfortunately the park closes before we can ever see them in their full glory. Street performers grab spaces in the shade. The picturesque cottage in the middle of the roses is actually a secondhand clothing store, but don’t let that stop you from appreciating its tranquility.
A or B: Můstek. Enter through the arch to the left of Jungmannova and Národní, behind the statue. Open daily dawn-dusk.
DANCING HOUSE
Rasinovo Nabrezi 80 120 00 Praha 2
MONUMENT
Now approaching its 15th birthday, the Tančící dům (Dancing House) has comfortably become a national icon after being the source of fierce controversy during its inception and construction. Designed by Vlado Milunic and Frank Gehry (of Guggenheim-Bilbao fame), the eight-story office building allegedly resembles an image of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, earning it the early moniker “Fred and Ginger.” The building was known as “Drunken House” for years by Czech traditionalists who felt that it had no place amid the neo-Baroque and Art Noveau architecture of the neighborhood. Through the help of supporters like Václav Havel, however, the building has become one of Prague’s most recognizable landmarks. While the top floor is occupied by Céleste, one of Prague’s top French restaurants (entrées 450-900Kč), budget travelers can visit the upstairs patio M-Sa 4-6pm for the price of a drink (150-200Kč).
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on your left.
EMAUZY
Vyšehradská 49/320, Prague 2
MONASTERY
221 979 211 www.emauzy.cz/en/index.php
Walking through the poorly-maintained cloister of Emauzy is a haunting experience. This cloister, which once served as abode to Jan Hus, the theological martyr and revolutionary, and Johannes Kepler, that dude who explained planetary motion, now sits silent. A train museum for children now occupies part of the old abbey, and the frighteningly empty chapel can be toured for the price of a train admission.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the park, follow the brown signs to the monastery down Vyšehradská. 50kč. Mass daily 10am. Open M-F 11am-3pm.
CHURCH OF SAINT IGNATIUS
Ječná 2, 120 00 Praha 2
CHURCH
221 990 200 www.jesuit.cz
This Jesuit church is one of the oldest Baroque buildings in Prague and is the third largest Jesuit complex in all of Europe. Built in the second half of the 17th century, this amazing chapel stands out for its brilliant slabs of green, red and yellow marble. The sculpture work on the altar was done by Matěj Václav Jäckel, who is best known for his work on the statues on the Charles Bridge. The figure of St. Ignatius on the church peak was considered semi-heretical in its day, as clerical rules stated that a full-body halo could only be administered to Christ himself.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head away from the river toward Ječná. The church will be on the corner. Open daily 6:15am-5:30pm. Daily mass 5:30pm.
Stare Město
CHURCH OF OUR LADY BEFORE TÝN
Staroměstské náměstí
CHURCH
tynska.farnost.cz
Our Lady Before Týn dominates the skyline of Old Town Square with two enormous spires sticking out among the surrounding Baroque buildings. Dating back to the 14th century, the church has seen some bizzare happenings and accumulated some colorful residents in its time. For instance, the church contains the remains of the astronomer Tycho Brahe, whose notable achievements include helping to describe planetary motion and peeing himself to death or, more accurately, “unpeeing” himself to death. In 1601, Brahe was at Emperor Rudolf’s for dinner, and since it was taboo to leave the table before the Emperor did, Tycho just held it until his bladder burst. But on the bright side, he kept decorum. The church’s towers reach a staggering 80m into the air; in traditional Gothic style, one of the spires is just a bit smaller than the other. The church’s exterior construction is expected to be finished in 2011.
A: Staroměstká. Just walk towards the giant twin towers. Free. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1pm, 3pm-5pm. Su Mass 9:30am and 9pm.
CHARLES BRIDGE
BRIDGE
Probably the most famous site in all of Prague, the Charles Bridge is also the bridge Mr. Phelps falls from in the brilliant movie with mediocre sequels, Mission Impossible. Charles IV commissioned the bridge to cross the Vltava River in 1357—if you haven’t figured it out already, Charles IV is responsible for everything cool in Prague—but the actual design and construction of the crossing was done by the famous archite
ct Peter Parléř. Although the bridge was originally decorated only by a crucifix, the church commissioned 32 statutes for the bridge between 1600 and 1800, featuring shady characters like St. Augustine, St. Anne, and Lamenting Christ. Weather damage forced the city to remove the original statues, which are now on display at the National Gallery. The bridge also features the Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž), which offers an Ethan Hunt’s eye view of the city below. Cross the bridge after sundown for an especially titillating experience.
A: Malonstranská or Staroměstká. Tower 70 Kč, students 50 Kč. Open daily Nov-Feb 10am-8pm, Mar-Oct 10am-10pm.
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK TOWER AND OLD TOWN HALL
Old Town Square 1/3
BELFRY
724 911 556
www.prazskeveze.cz/staromestska-radnice-a-vez.html
Here’s a free lesson: if you build an amazing clock that tells the position of the sun, the moon, and the planets, people will never stop fabricating legends about it. It’s said that after the city council hired the famous clockmaker Mikulas of Kadan to build the clock, they gouged out his eyes so he could never repeat his work (talk about worker’s comp issues). In reality, the clock was a collaboration between Kadan and Jan Ondrejuv, a professor of mathematics and astronomy, and Kadan built several clocks after this one. The clock also features another clock that moves once a day and has 365 names on it; Czech tradition “requires” parents to name their children one of said names. The day on which the clock points to your name is your “name day,” a kind of bastardized birthday. On the hour, the 12 apostles poke their heads out to the crowd, and a rooster crows. Climb or take the elevator to the top of the tower for amazing views of the city. Also available is a not-that-worth-it tour of the Old Town’s halls, highlights of which include the back view of the “apostle clock mechanism” and a walk through the the original romanesque basement. This basement served as the original ground floor before the king raised the level of Old Town by 6m or so.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 40