Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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A: Staroměstká or A or B: Mustek. Halls 100 Kč, students 80 Kč. Tower 100 Kč, students 50 Kč. Halls open M 11am-6pm, Tu-Su 9-6pm (last tour starts at 5). Towers open M 11am-10pm, Tu-Su 9am-10pm.
ST. NICHOLAS’S CHURCH
Parízská Str
CHURCH
224 190 994
St. Nicholas might not be one of the “cool cathedrals” that gets slapped on the cover of every guide book, but the chandelier hanging in its center might be the coolest in the city. Given as a gift to Prague in 1787 by Tsar Nicholas II, this crown is an enormous replica of the royal hat that Russian czars wore. The church contains a succinct but impressive exhibit on the history of the church and of Czech Christianity in general. The church was under the control of Benedictine monks for most of its existence, and a plaque on the former Benedectine monastery attached to the building marks the site where Franz Kafka was born.
A: Staroměstká. A or B: Mustek. Directly behind the Astronomical Clock Tower. Free. Open M noon-4pm, Tu-Sa 10am-4pm. Su Mass 10:30am, noon, and 3pm.
MUNICIPAL HOUSE
Naměstí Republiky 5
GOVERNMENT BUILDING, CONCERT HALL
222 002 101 www.obecnidum.cz
It might feel a little uncomfortable to get really excited about a state house and a concert hall, but if you visit the Municipal House, this is what will happen to you. Just go with it. Designed in 1911 by Antonin Balšánek and Osvald Polívka in classic Art Nouveau style, this publicly-commissioned state house features specifically-comissionend works from over 20 of the country’s top artists. Every detail, from the shape of the door handles to the doors themselves to the patterns on the banisters, are the careful work of some art Noveau master. Daily guided tours take visitors through Smetana Hall, where the Czech Philharmonic plays, and the Mayor’s Hall, decorated by the Czech painter, Alfons Mucha. For a trip to the past, stop by Kavárna Obecní Dům located on the ground floor. This incredible Art Noveau cafe features an oh-so-classic fountain by Josef Pekárek and eight enormous chandeliers hanging overhead.
B: Naměstí Republiky. Walk across the square; Municipal House is the gigantic building on your left. Tours in Czech and English. Tickets must be purchased on the day of your visit in the ticket office located in the basement of the Municipal House. 270Kč, students 220Kč. Open daily 10am-7pm. Tour times vary by week and month; check the calendar for details.
THE BLACK MADONNA HOUSE/KUBISTA MUSEUM
Ovocný trh 19
MUSEUM
222 321 459 www.ngprague.cz
The Black Madonna House is the best living example of Cubist architecture—a uniquely Bohemian trend that tried to extract the rules of Cubism into the third dimension. Designed by Gočar, one of 3D Cubism’s godfathers, the building now contains a gallery and permanent exhibit analyzing this Bohemian movement. While the exhibit’s paintings deliver the whacked-out perspective we expect from cubist masters, what’s more bizarre is the Cubist furniture. Chairs, cabinets, and armoires out of an M.C. Escher painting will make you lament that this genuinely awesome movement never became mainstream. Finally, check out the fully-restored “Cubist Cafe” located on the second floor of the building, and if you’ve got a rich uncle, check out the Kubista Museum store downstairs to pick up some replicas of Cubist jewelry and furniture.
B: Naměstí Republiky. Walk south through Naměstí Republiky and through Powder Gate, then continue west down Celetná, the museum is right at the fork in the road. 100Kč, after 4pm 50Kč. Students 50Kč/30Kč. 1st W of every month free. Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
POWDER GATE
Na Příkopě
MONUMENT
www.prazskeveze.cz/prasna-brana.html
Six hundred years ago, Horská brán, or “Mountain Tower,” which once stood on this site, actually served a purpose: it protected the city from bad guys and marked the starting point of royal corronation ceremonies. When New Town become a part of the city proper, the tower lost its function and they tore it down to built Powder Gate, an essentially cosmetic and purely symbolic monument. While the tower served as a gundpowder storage center for awhile, now it just kind of chills and lets cars tickle its belly as they drive under it. Climb up to the top for a view of the city and a small rotating exhibition.
B: Naměstí Republicky. From the Metro, walk south down naměstí Republicky. It’s the giant tower in front of you. 70Kč, students 15Kč. Open daily Mar and Oct 10am-8pm, Nov-Feb 10am-6pm, Apr-Sept 10am-10pm.
ESTATES THEATER
Ovocný trh 1, Praha 1, 110 00
THEATER
224 228 503 www.estatestheatre.cz
The Estates Theater, the legendary stage were Mozart “premiered” Don Giovonni in 1787, now has a haunting statue out front commemorating the event. Just one problem: the opera premiered—and bombed—in Vienna. Prague was the back-up premiere. To make a long story short, Prague loved it and it’s one of the greatest operas ever written. The film Amadeus features a scene with Mozart directing inside the Estates Theater. Popular ballets, dramas, and operas, including Don Giovonni, still play nightly in the Estates, and since the theater offers no public tours, the moderate ticket price is definitely worth the experience.
A or B: Můstek. From the station, head towards Old Town down Na Můstku and take the second right at Rytíšká. The theater and box office will be ahead on your right. Tickets 100-1200 Kč. Performances at 7pm unless otherwise listed.
ST. JAMES CATHEDRAL
Malá Štupartsá 6, Old Town
CHURCH
According to legend, a thief once tried to steal a necklace from a Virgin Mary statue in Saint James. Well, as you can imagine, the statue came to life, grabbed the thief’s arm, and refused to let go. Anyway, he had to cut his arm off and to this day, a mummified arm still hangs in the church. But this church doesn’t need legends to be exciting, because you know what else is exciting? Eleven murals painted on the church ceiling, which are seriously cool. In fact, the entirety of the church is intricately decorated. No kidding, it’s beautiful. And finally, here’s a true story. When Count Vratislav died, he was placed in one of the most beautiful tombs in all of Prague. But for days after he was buried, terrible noises kept coming from the tomb. Finally the noises stopped when the priests sprinkled holy water on the tomb. Years later, the tomb was opened and scratch marks were found on the inside; this is why you always check that someone’s dead before burying him. This church is not to be missed.
From starostka naměstí, take Týnska east, continuing straight through the courtyards as it turns into Týn. The courtyard lets out at Malá Štupartsá where you should take a left. Free. Open M-Th and Sa-Su 9:30am-noon and 2-4pm; F 9:30am-noon and 2pm-3:30pm. Su Mass 8:30am and 10:30am.
Josefov
The sights of Josefov, mostly syngagogues, are all located within close proximity. ( A: Staroměstská. Admission to all synagogues except Staronová 300Kč, students 200Kč. Staronová 200/140Kč. Combined tickets 480/320Kč. Synagogues open Apr-Oct M-F and Su 9am-6pm; Nov-Mar M-F and Su 9am-4:30pm. Closed Jewish holidays.) While ambling through the Jewish district, take note of the beautiful early 20th-century Art Nouveau architecture. While walking down Široká street—“Wide Street” in Czech—take a moment to realize the sheer gravity of the ghetto.
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY (STARÝ ŽIDOVSKÝ HŘBITOV)
U starého hřbitova 243/3a
CEMETERY
222 317 191
The Old Jewish Cemetery stretches between the Pinkas Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall. A winding path snakes through the uneven mounds covered with eroded and broken tombstones jutting out of the ground at unexpected angles. Between the 14th and 18th centuries, the graves were dug in layers, and over time the earth settled so that the stones from the lower layers were pushed to the surface, forcing many of the newer stones out of position and creating an indistinguishable mass of graves. Rabbi Loew is buried by the wall opposite the entrance.
To the right of Pinkasova Synagogue. Camera fee 40Kč.
SPANISH SYNAGOGUE (ŠPANĚLSKÁ SYNAGOGA)
Vězeňská 141/1
SYNAGOGUE
221 711 511
The Spanish Synagogue is the most richly decorated of the Josefov synagogues. Built in the Moorish-Byzantine style, the synagogue is covered from floor to ceiling with elaborate geometric patterns in beautiful reds, greens, and golds, and a cupola to top it all. The interior of the synagogue overshadows the exhibit within, which details the history of the Czech Jews from the Jewish Enlightenment to the decades after WWII, and contains an impressive set of silver Torah pointers. The synagogue also hosts classical concerts throughout the year.
On the corner of Široká and Dušní. Concerts about 700Kč.
PINKAS SYNAGOGUE (PINKASOVA SYNAGOGA)
Široká 23/3
SYNAGOGUE
221 711 511
At the time of the Nazi takeover, 118,310 Jews lived in the Prague ghetto, many of them refugees from the conquered territories. While a few managed to flee before the terror began, more than 92,000 remained in Prague. Of these remaining Jews, about 80,000 were deported to their deaths at Terezín or other concentration camps. The names of these victims are recorded on the otherwise bare walls of the nearly 500-year-old Pinkas Synagogue. The names were originally added in the 1950s, but under the Communist regime they were whitewashed as part of ongoing efforts to reframe the victims of the Holocaust as anti-fascists. When Václav Havel was elected president in 1989, his first act was to have the names reinscribed onto the synagogue walls. The second floor contains the haunting drawings of children from their time in Terezín.
Between Žatecká and 17. Listopadu Yarmulkes 5Kč.
KLAUSEN SYNAGOGUE (KLAUSOVÁ SYNAGOGA)
U starého hřbitova 243/3a
SYNAGOGUE
222 317 191
The Klausen Synagogue was originally built in 1573, burned down a while later, rebuilt in 1604, and then reconstructed in the 1880s. The inside is dedicated to the role of the synagogue in Jewish life and exhibit various artifacts. Next door, the Ceremonial Hall, maintained by the Prague Burial Society, showcases an exhibit on disease and death in Judaism.
Adjacent to the Cemetery.
MAISEL SYNAGOGUE (MAISELOVA SYNAGOGA)
Maiselova 63/10
SYNAGOGUE
221 711 511
Like most old things in Prague, the Maisel Synagogue has been partially destroyed and subsequently rebuilt several times. While originally built in the Renaissance style, the synagogue is now a hodgepodge of Baroque and Gothic elements. It contains artifacts from the history of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia up until the Jewish enlightenment. Some of the more interesting artifacts include the oldest tombstone from the Old Jewish Cemetery, as well as the robes of a 16th-century Jewish martyr who was burned at the stake by the Inquisition.
Between Široká and Jáchymova.
OLD-NEW SYNAGOGUE (STARONOVÁ SYNAGOGA)
Červená
SYNAGOGUE
The oldest operating synagogue in Europe and one of the earliest Gothic structures in Prague, the relatively small Old-New Synagogue is still the center of Prague’s Jewish community. The usual explanation for its oxymoronic name is that it was called the “New” synagogue when it was built in 1270 and took its present name when newer synagogues were built in the 16th century. However, a rumor persists that the synagogue was built with stones from the Temple in Jerusalem and that the name “Old-New” (Alt-Neu) is a mistranslation of the Hebrew “Al-Tnai,” meaning “on condition”; the stones would be returned when the Temple in Jerusalem was rebuilt. Inside are the remains of a flag flown by the congregation in 1357, when Charles IV first allowed the Jews to fly their own city flag.
At the corner of Široká and Žatecká. Men must cover their heads. Yarmulkes free. Open May-Aug M-F and Su 9:30am-6pm. Services F and Sa at 8pm reserved for practicing members of the Jewish community.
STATUE OF FRANZ KAFKA
Dušní
STATUE
The statue of Franz Kafka stands astride an enormous figure that appears to be nothing more than a suit of clothes, as depicted in his story, “Description of a Struggle.” At about 12 ft. tall, the statue is nowhere near the height of many of the city’s other notable statues (perhaps fittingly so for this short-story writer), but has earned the attention of tourists and locals alike.
At the corner of Žatecká, between the Spanish Synagogue and the Catholic church.
Malá Strana
CHURCH OF SAINT NICHOLAS
Malostranské náměstí 272/1
CHURCH
257 534 215
If you’ve spent any time in Europe by now, you’ve likely seen a church or two, or 50. But this ain’t no ordinary house of the Lord. Boldly colored celestial scenes play out on an enormous fresco that spans the entire length of the towering ceilings, and floating above it all, like a magical cherry on a holy sundae (see what we did there?), sits the behemoth, effortless dome. Built by a father-son team in the 17th century, St. Nicholas is considered to be the most beautiful example of high Baroque architecture in central Europe, and was influential in defining the style throughout the continent. Music fans can stay after hours for a concert on an organ that Mozart played.
A: Malostranská. Follow Letenská to Malostranské náměstí. Concerts held daily at 6pm. 70Kč, students 30Kč. Open daily Apr-Oct 9am-4:45pm, Nov-Mar 9am-3:45pm.
PETŘÍNSKÁ ROZHLEDNA
Petřín hill
LOOKOUT TOWER
If the Petřín lookout tower seems like a shameless knockoff of the Eiffel Tower, it’s because it is. The Eiffel Tower debuted at the 1889 World’s Fair, and this shorter, fatter cousin popped up two years later at the Czech Jubilee Exposition. So what if it’s only 60m tall; it’s built at the peak of Petřín hill, and from the lookout 299 steps up, you can see a 360-degree panorama of the entire Czech countryside. If you’re a lazier breed, take the lift (50Kč), big enough for one fat man or five uncomfortable skinny men. The basement has an impressively blasé exhibit on the tower’s history.
It’s the giant tower on the hill visible from anywhere in the city. Just walk towards it. 100Kč, students 50Kč. Open daily 10am-10pm.
THE TOP OF PETŘÍN
Petřín Hill
GARDEN, OBSERVATORY, MAZE
The hilltop has a number of sites worth briefly checking out, like the medieval Hunger Wall, Charles IV’s purposeless welfare project to provide jobs to Prague’s starving citizens. For a somewhat more purposeful, or at least aethestic, sight, go see the gardens with hundreds of varieties of roses; Czech lovers like to take up residence on benches there and remind the world how much they love each other. If canoodling Czechs don’t do it for you, retreat to the observatory, where guides will help you view sunspots on a clear day, and creep on tourists on the ground when it’s shady. There’s also an underwhelming mirror labyrinth from the 1891 Jubile Exposition. The maze boasts a mural of the 30 Years’ War in the middle of a mirror labyrinth. Go ahead, check it out, since you’ve already walked all the way up the mountain. When you get back down, see the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, a haunting monument near the funicular station that will give you the heebie jeebies at night.
A: Malostranská. Walk southwest towards the hill. If you don’t want to take the semi-strenuous 30min. mini-hike to the top of Petřín hill, take the funicular, which leaves from a station in the middle of Malá Strana at Újezd and U tanové drahá. The alpine Tram #runs daily from 9am-11:30pm, accepts normal 26 Metro tickets, and takes 10min. of your time. Observatory 55Kč, students 40Kč. Mirror labriynth 70/50Kč. Observatory open Nov-Feb Tu-F 6-8pm, Sa-Su 11am-8pm; Apr-Aug Tu-F 2-7pm abd 9-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm and 9pm-11pm; Mar and Oct Tu-F 9-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-6pm and 8pm-10pm. Mirror labyrinth open daily 10am-9:30pm.