Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 50
Montparnasse (14ème, 15ème)
The Montparnasse area is home to two of Paris’s most celebrated institutions, the Catacombs and the Cité Universitaire, and one of its most profitable tourist areas, Montparnasse Bienvenue. One of Paris’s more dynamic neighborhoods, the 14ème provides all the things any self-respecting arrondissement has to offer: a fairly diverse population, fantastic local restaurants, neighborhood specialty shops, leafy parks, mischievous children, and drunks. We recommend staying on the Metro’s line 4 past Montparnasse and hopping off at Denfert, or, better yet, Mouton Duvernet. Check out the open-air markets on rue Daguerre, or stroll down Avenue René Coty, and go strike up a conversation on the grande pelouse at the Cité Universitaire.
Passy and Auteuil (16ème)
Perhaps one of the swankiest neighborhoods in Paris, the 16ème is home to the ladies who lunch, their beautiful children, and their overworked husbands. Its elegant, boutique-lined streets are calmer than surrounding areas and offer a glimpse into the lives of Parisian elites. Backlit by fabulous views of the Eiffel Tower, the neighborhood is home to a number of museums and attractions, and elderly local pedestrians are often swamped by mobs of eager sightseers. Trocadero witnesses the heaviest tourist traffic, with breakdancing street performers, sprawling gardens, and the best “I’ve been to Paris” photo ops.
Batignolles (17ème)
Far away from Paris’s most touristed destinations, the 17ème offers a pleasant respite from the mobs of fellow tourists, and provides the chance to rub elbows (or other appendages, if you so choose) with the locals. A diverse group of Parisians are in residence here; varying widely block to block, bourgeois promenades with flowered trees are abruptly juxtaposed with working-class areas and immigrant neighborhoods. The eastern and southern parts of the arrondissement share the bordering 8ème and 16ème’s aristocratic feel, while the quartier’s western edge resembles the shoddier 18ème and Pigatelle. In the lively Village Batignolles, parents and their overly-earnest teenagers take leisurely strolls or sit in the many cafes.
Montmartre (18ème)
Montmartre might just be the most eccentric of Paris’s neighborhoods. From the scenic vistas at the Basilique de Sacre-Coeur, to the historic cabarets and Butte vineyard, to the (ahem) colorful establishments in the Red Light District on bld. de Clichy, you’ll see it all in the 18ème. Tourism in this part of town can be very difficult. While there aren’t too many great options for staying in Montmartre, there are some fantastic sights, decent food, and fun local bars. Keep in mind that while wandering through this neighborhood, you might have to occasionally hike the 130m hill, or Butte, Montmartre.
Buttes Chaumont (19ème)
In the mid-19th century, Baron Haussman’s architectural reforms paved the way for a new working class neighborhood to be settled in the 19th arrondissement, on the northeastern outskirts of Paris. A quiet family neighborhood with a surprisingly lovely Parc des Buttes Chaumont, the 19ème is now making its best effort at a bohemian revival. The area is rapidly becoming the trendy new hotspot for young professionals and students, and now boasts a growing Asian and North African community. The modern macro-social engineering feat that is the Parc de la Villette is also well worth a visit.
Belleville and Père Lachaise (20ème)
Belleville is one of Paris’s most legendary working-class neighborhoods. Although far from the city center, it is home to one of Paris’s most visited tourist sights, the Cimitière Père Lachaise (i.e. that cemetery where Jim Morrison’s buried). During the late Second Republic, the 20ème became a “red” arrondissement, and was characterized as proletarian and radical. A legacy of class solidarity and progressivism still characterizes the neighborhood today.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Île de la Cité and Île St-Louis
One of the romantic centers of Paris, the isles attracts honeymooners, swooners, and the like; the hoteliers more than make good on it. Rooms are generally anything but budget and more in the “I need to seduce her” price range.
HÔTEL HENRI IV
25 pl. Dauphine
HOTEL
01 43 54 44 53 www.henri4hotel.fr
It may not have modern-day “necessities” like TVs and hair dryers, but it does have some of the best-located and least-expensive rooms in Paris. Henry IV’s printing presses once occupied this 400-year-old and off-beat building; the hotel’s porthole doors and a winding staircase make it looks like an ancient ship. Spacious rooms have large windows and charming views.
Pont Neuf. Breakfast included. Singles €42-59; doubles €49-78; twins €76-81.
Châtelet-Les Halles
While affordable hotels in this trendy neighborhood tend to be pretty hard to come by, there are a few high-quality budget addresses that are worth checking out. Be sure to make your reservations far in advance—cheap spots in such a central location fill up rapidly at any time of year. Also, be sure to watch yourself around Châtelet. Other tourists will not stick up for you (or even tell you) when a pickpocket or mugger is about to pounce.
HOTEL DE ROUEN
42 rue Croix des Petits Champs
HOTEL
01 42 61 38 21 www.hotelderouen.net
This cozy two-star hotel boasts the lowest prices you’ll find in the 1er for hotel accommodations. The friendly owner speaks English and is more than happy to tell you about the virtues of all the different rooms. Some of the rooms are decorated with liberated Metro signs and maps, so you won’t even have to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi to plan your itinerary. While most rooms come equipped with showers, beware of getting the room without the shower on the first floor; you’ll have to walk up five floors (the hotel doesn’t have an elevator) to the hallway shower.
Palais Royal Musée du Louvre, Les Halles. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfast €6. Singles €40-60; doubles €45-75. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL TIQUETONNE
6 rue Tiquetonne
HOTEL
01 42 36 94 58
Located a stone’s throw from Marché Montorgueil and rue St-Denis’ sex shops, Hotel Tiquetonne is surrounded by so many hip shopping spots it could send its hipster clientele into bankruptcy. Simple rooms are generously sized and boast unusually high ceilings (by Parisian standards). Amenities can be hit or miss; the hotel has an elevator, but some rooms don’t have showers. Unbeatable prices for this location.
Etienne-Marcel. Breakfast €6. Hall showers €6. Singles €35, with shower €45; doubles with shower €55. Reception 24hr.
CENTRE INTERNATIONALE DE PARIS (BVJ): PARIS LOUVRE
20 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
HOSTEL
01 53 00 90 90
In an unbeatable location right down the street from the Louvre, this massive hostel has taken over three buildings in total. All guests must be younger than 35, ensuring a young and international crowd. The decor in the lobby, dining hall, and rooms is utilitarian and vaguely influenced by the ’60s. Spacious single-sex dorms are available with two to eight beds. A new location is coming to the Opéra district, so stay tuned.
Louvre. Breakfast included. Reservations can be made no more than 15 days in advance by phone or internet, except July-Aug, when they can be made 2 months in advance. Wi-Fi in dining hall €2 per hr., €3 per 2hr. 3-night max. stay; extensions can be arranged on arrival. Dorms €29. Extra bed €35. Reception 24hr.
The Marais
As would be expected, the Marais and its surroundings provide budget accommodations with a bit of flare. Many basic rooms are wallet-friendly, done up in style, and situated in the center of Parisian action. The trendy yet down-to-earth 4ème is also home to some of the best deals and worthwhile splurges in the city. There’s a lot of good stuff to make (and take) home.
MAUBUISSON
12 rue des Barres
HOSTEL
01 42 74 23 45 www.mije.com
Recognized as a 17th-century historical monument, Maubuisson is a former convent on a quiet street by the St.-Gervais monastery. In keeping with the piou
s theme, the hostel only accommodates individual travelers, rather than groups. A member of the MIJE hostel group, Maubuisson can arrange airport transportation as well as reservations for area attractions; call for details.
Hôtel de Ville or Pont Marie. From Pont Marie, walk opposite traffic on rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville and turn right on rue des Barres. Breakfast, ensuite shower, and linens included (no towels). No smoking. English spoken. Public phones and free lockers (with a €1 deposit). Internet access €0.10 per min. with €0.50 initial connection fee. Arrive before noon the first day of reser vation (call in advance if you’ll be late).Individuals can reserve months ahead online and 2-3 weeks ahead by phone. 7-night max. stay. MIJE membership required (€2.50). 4-to-9-bed dorms €30; singles €49; doubles €72; triples €96. Reception 7am-1am. Lockout noon-3pm. Curfew 1am; notify in advance if coming back after this time. Quiet hours after 10pm.
LE FOURCY
6 rue de Fourcy
HOSTEL
01 42 74 23 45 www.mjie.com
Le Fourcy surrounds a large, charming, mansion-worthy courtyard ideal for meeting travelers or for open-air picnicking. The adjoining restaurant is located in an authentic vaulted cellar, and offers a main course with drink (lunch only) and 3-course “hosteler special” (€10.50).
St-Paul or Pont Marie. From St-Paul, walk opposite the traffic for a few meters down rue St-Antoine and turn left on rue de Fourcy. Breakfast, in-room shower, and linens are included (no towels). No smoking. English spoken. Public phones and free lockers (with a €1 deposit). Internet access €0.10 per min. with €0.50 initial connection fee. 7 night max. stay. Groups of 10 or more may reserve a year in advance. Individuals can reserve months ahead online and 2-3 weeks ahead by phone. MIJE membership required (€2.50). 4- to 9-bed dorms €30; singles €49; doubles €72; triples €96. Reception 7am-1am. Lockout noon-3pm. Curfew 1am; notify in advance. Quiet hours after 10pm. Arrive before noon the first day of reservation (call in advance if you’ll be late).
HOTEL PICARD
26 rue de Picardie
HOTEL
01 48 87 53 82 www.hotelpicardparis.com
A welcoming, family-owned hotel that’s run more like a home with an open door policy. Let’s Go readers will definitely feel like a member of the family; a 5% discount is given if you flash your copy. The bright and adorable rooms vary in size, but all of them are comfy. Many of them have private bathrooms, most of which have been recently renovated. All rooms come with TVs, safes, and showers.
République. Follow bld. du Temple and turn right onto rue Charlot. Take the first right on rue de Franche Comte, which becomes rue de Picardie. Breakfast €5. Reserve 1 week ahead in summer and 2 weeks ahead the rest of the year. Singles with sink €53-68, with bath €74-93; doubles €59-74/89-112; triples €124-155. Shower €3.
HÔTEL JEANNE D’ARC
3 rue de Jarente
HOTEL
01 48 87 62 11 www.hoteljeannedarc.com
Joan of Arc may have been one, but you certainly won’t be a martyr for staying in this quaint hotel. Charming rooms decorated in mismatched patterns all come with bath or shower, toilet, cable TV, safe and hair dryer. Despite its modern amenities, the place feels more like a homestyle inn than a 2-star hotel; the dining area boasts an absurdly funky mosaic mirror and serves a country-style breakfast.
St.-Paul. From St-Paul, walk against traffic onto rue de Rivoli; turn left on rue de Sévigné then right on rue de Jarente. Breakfast €7. Free Wi-Fi. English spoken. Reserve 2-3 months in advance (longer for stays in Sept-Oct) by emailing or calling with credit card. Singles €62-90; doubles €90-116; triples €146; quads €160.
Latin Quarter and St-Germain
While hotels are generally a bit overpriced in these neighborhoods, it’s to be expected given their central location in Paris. Nonetheless, the area boasts some truly luxurious accommodations at very reasonable prices. If you want to be well located while living the (somewhat) high life, Let’s Go has a few good recommendations for you.
HÔTEL DE NESLE
7 rue du Nesle
HOTEL
01 43 54 62 41 www.hoteldenesleparis.com
An absolutely phenomenal place to stay. Every room is unique and represents a particular time period or locale. The Molière room is ideal for the comically minded, and an Oriental room is available for undying proponents of the colonial lifestyle (don’t let that be you). The lobby’s ceiling is adorned with bouquets of dried flowers, and the peaceful garden has terraced seating and a duck pond. Reserve a good deal in advance, because this unforgettable accommodation fills up quickly, especially during the summertime.
Odéon. Laundry facilities on-site. Singles €55-65; doubles €75-100. Extra bed €12.
Invalides
Budget travel isn’t exactly synonymous with the elegant 7ème. Still, the centrally located arrondissement hosts a number of modern and decently affordable hotels with a friendly staff committed to good service. Many rooms also come with a view of the gilded dome of Invalides.
HOTEL MONTEBELLO
18 rue Pierre Leroux
HOTEL
01 47 34 41 18 hmontebello@aol.com
From the worn leather couch in the lobby to the faded old photographs lining the walls, Hotel Montebello feels more like a haven for long-lost French grand-children than an actual hotel. Provides clean and colorful rooms with purple curtains, at some of the best prices in the 7ème. It’s a bit far from most of the neighborhood sights, but the elderly proprietor lends a genuine taste of old Paris. Be warned that credit cards are still considered a bit too new-fangled for this place; you will have to pay by check.
Vaneau. All rooms with bath. Singles €49; doubles €59; triples €79.
Champs-Élysées
Catering to the Louis Vuitton clientele, accommodations in the posh 8ème come with a lot of stars and a hell of a nightly rate. Budget travelers might want to look elsewhere. For those absolutely set on location, there are a few quality options.
HÔTEL ALEXANDRINE OPÉRA
10 rue de Moscou
HOTEL
01 43 87 62 21 alexandrineopera@gmail.com
Nothing about this hotel could provoke anger (quite the contrary) but you’ll still see red (decorators went a little crazy with the color scheme). Apart from that, rooms are well-sized, pleasant and come with a minibar (an unthinkable luxury at this price), hair dryer, TV, phone and shower.
Liège. Breakfast €9. Singles €65-80, doubles €75-100.
Opéra
PERFECT HOTEL
39 rue Rodier
HOTEL
01 42 81 18 86
Possibly the best deal in Paris, the Perfect Hotel is, well, practically perfect. For super cheap, visitors have access to a kitchen available for their use whenever they need it. Some of the rooms have balconies, which may be available on request. The cordial owners owners are enthusiastic when it comes to new visitors; they’re so concerned about their guests that they installed a surveillance system of the entire hotel to ensure privacy and safety. Or maybe just to watch you. No Wi-Fi, unfortunately, but it’s coming soon with upcoming renovations (new painting, wallpaper, and showers).
Anvers. Reserve 2 months ahead; there are only 10 rooms, and given the cheap prices this hotel fills up weeks in advance during summer. Free breakfast. Credit cards accepted only for weeklong stays or longer. Doubles €25-35 per person; triples €26-28 per person.
Canal St-Martin and Surrounds
Canal St-Martin boasts a wealth of dirt-cheap options around Gare du Nord. The following accommodation is among the best that the arrondissement has to offer, but if it’s full, ask the proprieters to recommend one of their many competing neighbors. People running hotels around here tend to be pretty no-nonsense, so they’ll give you the inside skinny.
HOTEL PALACE
9 rue Bouchardon
HOTEL
01 40 40 09 45
Rock-bottom prices and a safe (by 10ème standards), if not central, l
ocation are combined with a very warm and comfortable welcome. Prices are stupifyingly low, with singles going for €20; the greater tourist community is beginning to catch on to this bargain, so be sure to make reservations at least two weeks in advance.
Strasbourg-St-Denis. Breakfast €4. Singles €20-35; doubles €28-45; triples €60; quads €70.
Bastille
The 11ème is littered with hotels (amongst other things), and offers a little bit of something for everybody. Accommodations range from the very cheap to the very not-cheap, but good quality budget hotels are in abundance. The neighboring 12ème offers relatively inexpensive and simple accommodations, which work hard to make up for being somewhat on the outskirts. The best options cluster around the Gare de Lyon.
AUBERGE DE JEUNESSE “JULES FERRY” (HI)
8 bld. Jules Ferry
HOSTEL
01 43 57 55 60 paris.julesferry@fuaj.org
A noble attempt to brighten up the hostel experience, and we mean that quite literally—the brown bunks have recently been painted neon green. A mural of sharks greets you on your walk up the stairs. Colorful rooms with sinks, mirrors, and tiled floors match the carefree atmosphere (though the sharks don’t quite scream “Welcome Home!”).