Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide

by Harvard Student Agencies, Inc. ,

  HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL

  Paris’s Holocaust memorial is a claustrophobic and deeply moving experience. Narrow staircases, spiked gates, and high concrete walls are meant to evoke the atmosphere of the concentration camps; only a few visitors are allowed to enter the exhibition at a time, and the solitude that the museum imposes upon its viewers only increases the pervasive sense of sadness. The focal point of the insitution is a tunnel lined with 200,000 lit quartz pebbles, one for each of the French citizens who were deported. The pebbles are an homage to the Jewish custom of placing stones on the graves of the deceased. Empty cells and walls bear the names of the most infamous camps, as well as a series of humanitarian statements by famous writers like Jean-Paul Sartre and Antoine de St-Exupéry. Near the exit is the simplest and most arresting of these quotes, “Pardonne. N’Oublie Pas.” (Forgive. Do Not Forget.)

  Cité. At the western tip of the island in square de l’Île de France, on quai de l’Archevêche. A 5min. walk from the back of Notre Dame cathedral, and down a narrow flight of steps. Free. Open Tu-Su Apr-Sept 10am-noon and 2-7pm; Oct-Mar 10am-noon and 2-5pm. Last morning entry 11:45am; evening 30min. before close.

  CONCIERGERIE

  2 bld. du Palais

  PALACE, PRISON

  01 53 40 60 97 www.monuments-nationaux.fr

  Back in the day, the Conciergerie served as both palace and prison, where kings feasted and criminals rotted. Built by Philip the Fair in the 14th century, the building is a good example of secular medieval architecture—heavy, hard and, somber. The name “Conciergerie” refers to the administrative officer of the Crown who acted as the king’s steward, the Concierge (Keeper). When Charles V moved the seat of royal power from Île de la Cité to the Louvre after the assasination of his father’s advisors, he endowed the Concierge with the power to run the Parliament, Chancery, and Audit Office. Later, this edifice became a royal prison and was taken over by the Revolutionary Tribunal after 1793. Now blackened by auto exhaust, the northern facade casts an appropriate gloom over the building: 2780 people were sentenced to death here between 1792 and 1794. A full list of the bourgeosie who had their heads chopped up is hung inside. Among its most famous prisoners were Marie-Antoinette, who was kept for 5 weeks, Robespierre, and 21 Girondins.

  At the farthest corner on the right, a stepped parapet marks the oldest tower, the Tour Bonbec,which once housed the in-house torture chambers. The modern entrance lies between the Tour d’Argent, the stronghold of the royal treasury, and the Tour de César, used by the Revolutionary Tribunal. Past the entrance hall, stairs lead to rows of cells complete with somewhat blank-faced replicas of prisoners and prison conditions. Plaques explain how, in a bit of opportunism on the part of the Revolutionary leaders, the rich and famous could buy themselves private cells with cots and tables for writing while the poor slept on straw and with each other in pestilential cells. A model of Marie-Antoinette’s rather comfortable-looking room suggests the extent to which class distinction remained preserved during the Revolution. If you follow the corridor named for “Monsieur de Paris,” the executioner during the Revolution, you’ll be tracing the final footsteps of Marie-Antoinette as she awaited decapitation on October 16, 1793. In 1914, the Conciergerie ceased to be used as a prison. Occasional concerts and wine tastings in the Salle des Gens d’Armes have, happily, replaced torture and beheadings.

  Cité. €7; students €4.50; handicapped and caretaker, EU citizens 18-25 and under 18 free. Includes tour in French. Open daily Mar-Oct 9:30am-6pm, Nov-Feb 9am-5pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Tours daily 11am, 3pm.

  HÔTEL DE DIEU

  1 pl. du Paris

  BUILDING, HOSPITAL

  01 42 34 82 34

  Upon realizing that it might be helpful to save actual people in addition to their Christian souls (this was the Dark Ages: the idea was new at the time), Bishop St. Landry built this hospital in 651 CE. Today, it is the oldest hospital in Paris. In the Middle Ages, Hôtel de Dieu confined the sick rather than cured them; guards were posted at the doors to keep the patients from escaping and infecting the rest of the city. Over a millennia later, world-renowned chemist and biologist Louis Pasteur utilized the hospital’s resources to conduct much of his pioneering research. In 1871, the hospital’s proximity to Notre Dame saved the Cathedral from the fires of hell, so to speak—Communards were dissuaded from burning the monument for fear that the flames would engulf their hospitalized comrades nearby. The hospital has seen quieter days for some time now. The serene and well-groomed gardens in the inner courtyard feature sculpture exhibits.

  Cité. Free. Open daily 7am-8pm.

  PALAIS DE JUSTICE

  4 bld. du Palais

  COURTHOUSE

  01 44 32 51 51

  This is the place to get a prison sentence. The Palais has borne witness to the German spy Mata Hari’s death sentence; Sarah Bernhardt’s divorce from the Comédie Française; Emile Zola’s trial following the Dreyfus Affair; Dreyfus’s declaration of his innocence; and the trial of Maréchal Pétain after WWII. The institution’s architecture is organized around the theme of—unsurprisingly enough—“justice,” and features symbolic representations of its basic concepts. The portrayals of Zeus and Medusa symbolize royal justice and punishment; the swords and sunlight recall the general concepts of justice and the law. A wide set of stone steps at the main entrance of the Palais de Justice leads to three doorways, each marked with Liberté, Egalité, or Fraternité—words that once signified revolution and now serve as the bedrock of the French legal tradition, not to mention many a photo. All trials are open to the public, and even if your French is not up to legalese, the theatrical sobriety of the interior is worth a quick glance. Plus you don’t have to pay to see justice served!

  Cité, within Palais de la Cité, use Ste-Chapelle entrance at 6 bld. du Palais. Enter through the Ste-Chapelle entrance, go down the hallway after the security check and turn right onto a double-level courtroom area. To go in the main entrance, turn right into the courtyard after the security check. Free. Courtrooms open M-F 9am-noon and from 1:30pm-end of last trial.

  five ways to make the louvre cool

  As one of the most famous (and bunion-inducing) museums in the world, the Louvre hosts an exceptional crowd of obnoxious international tourists trampling toward the Venus de Milo, rowdy French schoolchildren giggling at every naked statue, and security guards that take personal space too seriously. We offer some advice to make that inevitable visit to IM Pei’s pyramids a bit more pleasant, albeit less mature:

  • CHECK OUT MONA LISA’S EYEBROWS... or lack thereof. One painting the size of a mini-magazine. A million American tourists fighting to snap a picture but just getting a shot of each others’ cameras. Not enough security guards to fend off the crowd. At some point, should you finding yourself doubting whether you should’ve just Googled La Jaconde, entertain yourself by making a note of her missing eyebrows. The facial aesthetics of the lady in question reflects the style of Florence during an era when it was considered fashionable for women to shave off the only follicular decoration on their face. If only Whoopi Goldberg had been born in the 16th century.

  • MAKE YOUR OWN MUSEUM SOUNDTRACK. Pick a room on the Richelieu wing on the first floor. Put your iPod on shuffle. Then, for each painting, press next song. As an alternative to stodgy museum cassette tours, your own personalized walk around the museum should make the 400th Passion of the Christ triptych more refreshing, especially backed by Nirvana’s “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”

  • PLAY HIDE AND SEEK IN THE CAROUSEL GARDEN. Fanning out from the Arc de Triomphe, the outdoor portion of the museum makes botanists everywhere salivate with its various shrubs, trees, flower species, not to mention the naked statues. Find your inner Alice in the Louvre’s very own Wonderland. Just don’t start painting the roses red or security might ask you to leave—s’il vous plait probably included.

  • ORDER A BEER AT MCDONALD’S. When the Supersized fast food joint opened up in the Louvre’s shopping ma
ll in 2009, the French threw a hissy fit when they realized Americans were trying to make even art connoisseurs fat. But the Mickey D’s stayed, and now visitors still have the option of enjoying the European version of the Dollar Menu, as well as the irony of taking a break with a German beverage at an American fast food joint in a French museum.

  • PULL A DUCHAMP. On your way out, pay a visit to the gift shop in the Allée de Grande Louvre to purchase a postcard of the Mona Lisa. Feel free to add a moustache or a mole here and there, use Duchamp’s famous “L.H.O.O.Q”/“Elle a chaud au cou” (“She has a hot ass”) pun, or come up with your own version. Either way, you’ll have a souvenir that’s considerably more cool than an Eiffel Tower keychain.

  Musée du Louvre

  MUSEUM

  01 40 20 53 17 www.louvre.fr

  The cultural importance of the Louvre cannot be overstated. The museum’s miles (yes, miles) of galleries stretch seemingly without end, and the depth, breadth, and beauty of their collection spans thousands of years, six continents, countless artistic styles, and a vast range of media.

  Successful trips to the Louvre require two things: a good sense of direction and a great plan of attack. Let’s Go provides general information about the museum, followed by descriptions of its major collections. Those in search of a more detailed itinerary can choose from a selection of curator-designated “Thematic Trails,” described on the Louvre’s website. We wish you luck.

  OVERVIEW

  The Louvre is comprised of three connected wings: Sully, Richelieu, and Denon. These three buildings are centered on the Cour Napoleon, the museum’s main entrance, which is accessible through I.M. Pei’s large, glass pyramid (the Cour Napoleon is also accessible directly from the Palais-Royal/Musée de Louvre Metro station, by way of the Carrousel du Louvre, an underground gallery with high-end shops and a reasonably priced food court.) The Cour sports two ticket counters, a number of automated ticket machines, and a large information desk. Once you’ve secured your ticket, proceed up the escalators to Sully, Richelieu, or Denon to enter the museum itself on the basement level. Within the museum, each wing is divided into sections according to period, national origin, and medium. Each room within these thematic sections is assigned a number and color that correspond to the Louvre’s free map.

  Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre. Audio tour €6, under 18 €2, disabled visitors and unemployed €4, ages 18-25 rent one audio tour get one free. Visitors with disabilities don’t have to wait in line. All entrances except the Passage Richelieu have elevators. At the main desk, you can exchange a piece of identification for a temporary wheelchair. Concerts and films are held in the auditorium in the Cour Napoléon. Concerts €3-30; films, lectures, and colloquia €2-10. Check the website for scheduling and more information. There is a small theater in the hall with free 1hr. films in French relating to the museum (films every hr. 10am-6pm). 1½hr. tours in English, French, or Spanish daily 11am, 2pm, 3:45pm; sign up at the info desk Admission €9, after 6pm on W and F €6, unemployed free after 6pm, under 26 free after 6pm. Free admission first Su of every month. Prices include both permanent and temporary collections, except for those in the Cour Napoléon. Tickets also allow same-day access to the Musée Delacroix. Open M 9am-6pm, W 9am-10pm, Th 9am-6pm, F 9am-10pm, and Sa 9am-6pm. Last entry 45min. before close; rooms begin to close 30min. before close.

  NEAR EASTERN ANTIQUITIES

  The cradle of civilization, the fertile crescent, and the land of epithets, Mesopotamia (also known as the Near East) was also the birthplace of Western Art. The Louvre’s collection is one of the largest agglomerations of Egyptian and Mesopotamian artifacts in the world, and includes works that are over ten thousand years old. This area of the museum is generally one of the calmer ones, so you can spend some time marveling at its ancient offerings without feeling overwhelmed by the frenetic crowds. The encyclopaedic exhibits include a few terrific stelas (no, not the beer you get ripped off for at the cafes around the Louvre; we’re talking slabs of wood or stone inscribed with painting, inscription, etc.) The Victory Stela of Naram Sim (Room 2) is a highlight of the collection, depicting the Akkadian King ascending to the heavens, trampling his enemies along the way and sporting the crown of a god. One of the Louvre’s most historically significant pieces is the Law Code of Hammurabi, or the King of Babylon, currently holding things down in Room 3 of the museum’s Near East section.

  Richelieu. Ground fl.

  GREEK, ETRUSCAN, AND ROMAN ANTIQUITIES

  The extensive collection boasts works dating from the Neolithic age, about fourth millennium BCE, up until the sixth century. Many of the works featured here can be traced back to the rich royal collections seized by the rebel government of the French Revolution—which is also, in large part, to thank for transforming the Louvre into a museum. Purchases of various other royal and private collections over the next century solidified the bulk of the modern-day exhibit. The armless Venus de Milo is, obviously, the main attraction. As you approach Room 74 on the first floor, you can hear the din of the crowd (not quite Mona Lisa level, but still a din), heartily oohing, ahhing, and snapping pictures of the lady. The Winged Victory of Samothrace proves that a head is not a prerequisite for Greek masterpieces; beware of large crowds.

  Denon and Sully. 1st fl., ground fl., and lower ground fl.

  THE ITALIANS

  Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, purchased by Francois I in 1518 (Room 6) is the most famous painting in the world. While the lady’s mysterious smile and plump figure are still charming, there is nothing charming about fighting for a good view of the painting; if you feel comfortable doing so, now’s the time to throw some elbows. The crowds are fierce, the painting is hidden in a glass box that constantly reflects hundreds of camera flashes, and you won’t be allowed within 15 ft. of it. In the adjacent hall, an astonishing group of Renaissance masterpieces awaits—everything from Leonardo’s Virgin on the Rocks to Raphael’s Grand Saint Michael to Fra Angelico’s Cavalry. The rest of the exhibit contains Renaissance masterpieces by Caravaggio, Leonardo, and others—an impressive bunch whose work documents the rise of Humanist art in the West. This wing is best visited as soon as the museum opens, as the entire thing turns into a zoo within 15-30min; while crowds are smaller on Wednesday and Friday evening visit times, this part of the museum is always pretty busy.

  Denon. 1st fl.

  FLANDERS, THE NETHERLANDS

  A more relaxed Louvre experience awaits you on the second floor. Vermeer’s majestic Astronomer and Lacemaker occupy Room 38. While Vermeer left behind no sketches or clues related to his preparatory methods, some scholars believe that he used a camera obscura in composing his works; one can make out subtle effects of light that could not have appeared to Vermeer’s naked eye without a little assistance, unless he was superhuman (granted, that’s a distinct possibility). Also not to be missed is Rubens’ Galerie Médicis; comprised of 24 huge canvases; the room’s paintings are dedicated to episodes from the self-obsessed queen’s life. The equally giant tableaux are worth a few minutes of your time. This section of the museum is also filled with works by Rembrandt, Van Eyck, and Van der Weyden.

  Richelieu. 2nd fl.

  AND NOW FOR THE FRENCH

  French paintings? In the Louvre? You would never have guessed it. Extravagant works from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries dominate the second floor of the Sully wing. A room dedicated to La Tour, once one of the world’s leading Caravaggesque painters, showcases his fascination with hidden sources of light, responsible for the haunting works that occupy Room 28. Once you’ve had your fill of modernity, peace, and quiet, head back to the first floor of Denon, where the French heavyweights neighbor the Mona Lisa. The second most famous painting in these galleries is Delacroix’s chaotic Liberty Leading the People, in which Liberty is symbolized by a highly liberated (read: partially nude) woman. The rich use of color in the painting is considered seminal in its effect on the Impressionist school of art. Social science types should get a kick out of In
gres’ body-twisting Grande Odalisque and Delacroix’s Death of Sardanapalus. The combined chaos and richness of the tableaux are truly fascinating. Both paintings are good examples of Orientalism, a product of France’s imperial adventures in North Africa.

  Sully, 2nd fl. Denon, 1st fl.

  Châtelet-Les Halles

  Châtelet-Les Halles is perhaps Paris’s most densely touristed area. And that’s saying something. From the commercial indulgence of the Place Vendome, to the mind-numbing grandeur and beauty of the Louvre, to the bizarre trends on display at Les Arts Decoratifs, the 1st and 2nd arrondissements have it all.

  JARDIN DES TUILERIES

  Place de la Concorde, rue de Rivoli

  GARDEN

  01 40 20 90 43

  Covering the distance from the Louvre to the place de la Concorde (and the Jeu de Paume and L’Orangerie), the Jardin des Tuileries is a favorite hangout for Parisians and tourists alike. The garden was originally built for Catherine de Medici in 1559 when she moved to the Louvre after the death of her husband, Henri II. The original designer was Italian Bernard de Carnesse, who modeled his masterpiece on the gardens of Catherine’s native Florence, and the garden was used mostly for royal occasions. About a hundred years later, Louis XIV’s superintendent, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, assigned the task of recreating the Tuileries garden to Le Notre (of Vaux-le-Vicomte and Versailles fame), the grandson of one Catherine’s gardeners. Straight lines and sculpted trees became the decorative preference for this majestic plot of land, and several generations of kings employed the new and improved Tuileries for massive parties. You don’t want to miss the beautiful views of Paris from the elevated terrace by the Seine. There are extremely expensive cafes scattered throughout the grounds. During the summer, confiserie stands, merry-go-rounds and a huge ferris wheel are installed near the rue de Rivoli entrance for the park’s younger visitors.