From the train station, walk through the commercial center, down the steps and the hotel is on the other side of the street, next to the McDonalds. Singles with shower €43, with bath €47-57; doubles with bath €56-70; triples €70.
SIGHTS
The majority of the sights in Orléans are situated in and around Place Saint-Croix in the shadow its overbearring Cathedral. It is possible to walk between the major historical sights on your own, though the Tourist Office can provide you with some suggested routes and additional information. It was down the rue de Bourgogne that Joan of Arc marched the triumphant French army in 1429. The street features multiple historic wooden houses, and is home to most of Orléans’ nightlife. One wonders if the virginal saint would approve.
CATHÉDRALE SAINT CROIX
pl. St Croix
CATHEDRAL
Towering over Orléans, the Cathedral is the biggest and most impressive sight to behold in the city. Its Gothic towers and 88m spires are visible throughout the city, and it is easy to imagine the young Joan of Arc marching past it centuries ago. The Cathedral was originally erected in the 13th century, and was built over the course of the next 200 years. When Joan liberated it from the English, it was still unfinished. The city’s heroine is not forgotten inside the Cathedral—a statue of her stands in its north wing, flanked by two golden leopards that cower at her feet. Stand near the altar and gaze up to the stained-glass windows for a moment of breathtaking serenity.
From train station take Tram A in the direction of Hôpital and exit at Pl. De Gaulle. Follow rue Jean d’Arc to Pl. St Croix. Tourist office provides tours. Free. Open daily 9:15am-6pm.
CHTEAUX
Though plenty of tourists hire a car to reach the surrounding Châteaux from Orléans, taking the good old fashioned bus is both the cheaper and simpler option. Buses run from the Gare Routière (2 rue Marcel Proust). The Gien Express leaves M-F at 6am, 7am, noon and 12:30pm, and stops at Germingy, Sully-Sur-Loire, and finally Gien.
SULLY-SUR-LOIRE
CHTEAU
02 38 36 23 70 www.sully-sur-loire.fr
Sully-Sur-Loire is one of the Loire’s most striking castles, and has hosted a number of historically famous visitors, including Charles VII, Joan of Arc, and Louis XIV. Maintained by the Sully Family until the 1960s, the castle has since undergone renovations, and visitors are now able to climb up to the chamber of the guards, which yields a stunning view of the Loire and the surrounding valleys. One of the most interesting rooms in the house is dedicated to Psyche, the Greek goddess of the soul. The room, which dates back to the 17th century, contains tapestries bearring the Sully family’s coat of arms. In mid-June, Sully-Sur-Loire is home to the world-famous Festival de Sully et du Loiret, which showcases worldwide classical music. The Forest, open daily from 8am to sunset, provides a moment of peace away from the busy tourist attraction.
Take the bus from Orléans to Gien, get off at Sully-Sur-Loire. €7, groups €5. Open Apr-Sept 10am-6pm; Oct-Dec M 10am-6pm, Tu-Su 10am-noon; Feb-Apr M 10am-6pm, Tu-Su 10am-noon.
GERMINGY-DES-PRÉS (GERMINGY)
CHTEAU
02 38 58 27 97 www.tourisme-loire-foret.com
The Carolingian church of Germingy-des-Prés is about 30km southeast of Orléans, and dates back to 806 AD, making it one of the three oldest churches in France. The original pillar headings can still be observed in the re-plastered interior. One of the most fascinating displays in the church is a ninth-century “golden” mosaic. The mosaic was actually rediscovered by a group of schoolchildren in 1830 who happened to be playing underneath it. That was almost 200 years ago—see if you can discover anything new in the grand corridors and grounds of this medieval wonder.
Take the bus from Orléans to Gien and get off at Germingy. Free. Open daily Apr-Oct 9am-7pm.; Nov-Mar 10am-5pm.
FOOD
Restaurants in Orléans serve classic French cuisine and tastes from around the globe. If you’re on a budget, check out the Carrefour supermarket, which can be found above of the train station at pl. D’Arc ( Open M-Sa 8:30am-9pm). A traditional French market can be found inside Les Halles Châtelet, where locals pick up essentials like bread, milk, fish and meats. (pl. du Châtelet. Open Tu-F 7:30am-7:30pm, Sa 7am-7:30pm, Su 8am-1pm.) La rue de Bourgogne is the busiest street in Orléans, lined with Indian, Thai, British, Lebanese, and traditional French cuisine. In the evening, most places don’t open before 7pm, so an early dinner is rarely on the menu.
LA MANGEOIRE
28 rue du Poirier
RESTAURANT
02 38 68 15 38
This petit restaurant is an absolute must with filling French cuisine that won’t empty the wallet. Specializing in les tartines, or bread topped with meats, cheeses, potatoes, and other ingredients, La Mangeoire provides some of the best portions and price-tags in town. Choose from numerous toppings, including vegetarian options, to create a gigantic rustic meal that could sustain a burly Gaul farmer for several days. For the truly hungry, try the Parisienne, which includes bris, beef, mushrooms, and potatoes. The manager, Florent, worked as a chef in NYC for five years and is fluent in English. He’ll happily translate the menu for you or offer a few words of advice for making the most of the town. Families and big groups welcome. If you’re coming in a big group, call in advance and special arrangements can be made, ranging from flexible opening hours to a set menu.
Rue fu Poirier runs adjacent with rue de Bourgogne. Tartines €12, meat and fish €12-16. Open M-Sa noon-2pm and 7-10:30pm.
AU BON MARCHÉ
12 pl. du Châtelet
RESTAURANT
02 38 53 04 35 www.aubonmarche-orleans.com
Although not as “cheap” as the name suggests, this restaurant offers some high-class French dining for not-so-high-class prices. The restaurant bends around a bar and extends through to a seating area covered in red leather seats, with some high tables that create a modern vibe in an old building. The specialty beef dish (€15) comes served on a skewer which could be mistaken for a kebab, until you tuck into the tender meat. The plasma TV screen showing wildlife programmes adds a certain bizarre vibe to the whole setup.
In the Châtelet Square which is a short walk from the Châtelet shopping complex. Lunch set menu €7, dinner set menu €18. Open M-F noon-2:30 and 7-10:30pm, Sa noon-2:30 and 7-11pm, Su noon-2:30 and 7-10:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: 2 pl. de l’Étape (02 38 24 05 05. www.tourisme-orleans.com. Open daily Apr-June 9:15am-6:15pm; July-Aug 9:15am-6:45pm; Sept. 9:15am-6:15pm; Oct 9:45am-5:30pm; Nov-Mar 9:45am-5pm.)
• BANKS: ATMs along rue de la République.
• LAUNDROMAT: Laverie Bourgogne. (176 rue de Bourgogne. Wash €7 per 10kg, dry €1 per 10min. Open daily 7am-9pm.)
• HOSPITAL: Centre Hospatilier Régional. 1 rue Porte Madeleine. (02 38 51 44 44).
• POST OFFICE: Pl. du Général de Gaulle. (02 38 77 35 14. Open M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-12:15pm.)
Emergency!
• PHARMACY: 15. (Line open daily 7am-9pm.)
• POLICE: 63 rue du Faubourg St-Jean (02 38 24 30 00).
Getting There
The main train station, Gare d’Orléans connects to the other train station Gare Les Aubrais by a shuttle which runs roughly every half hour (€1.20). You can reach Gare Les Aubrais from Paris Charles de Gaulle by a high-speed train (€30. 1hr-1hr. 30min.) or take a train from Paris Austerlitz from the Gare d’Orléans (€20. 1hr). There are frequent trains connecting Orléans with the rest of the Loire Valley, including Blois (€10. 40min.) and Tours. (€18. 1hr. 30min.) The Info Desk at Gare d’Orléans is open M-Sa 6am-8pm, Su 8:30am-8pm.
Getting Around
The tram system runs in two directions: Jules Verne to the North and L’Hopital de la Source in the South. Tickets for one way on the tram costs €1.30 and must be bought at the stop before getting on. The tram stops at most main points of interest in Orléans, including Rue de la République and De Gualle.
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or a taxi, call Radio d’Orléans (02 38 53 11 11). Taxis run from underneath the train station and cost around €5 to reach the center of town (€2.10-1.40 per km).
Buses run around the Centre, but aren’t really required for exploring the sights of Orléans, as they are all within walking distance from the vielle ville.
It is possible to hire a bike from newly installed Velo+ bike station outside the Tourist Information Office. The first half an hour is free, and it costs €1 for the next hour, and €2 for the hour after that. There are 33 stops in and around Orléaans which are indicated on the map.
blois
02 54
The opposite of blah, Blois (blwah; pop. 51,000) is the hidden gem of the Loire Valley, and the perfect excuse for a few days of exploration and medieval meddling. Indulge your inner Disney princess with a waltz through the incredible Château that overlooks the Loire River, then hit the local bars for a night you’ll never forget. The culinary offerings span a variety of palates, with an emphasis on traditional (and even medieval) French food. Though you shouldn’t expect to find any banging clubs with massive crowds here, French 20-somethings kick back and bask in the sun outside the numerous bars and cafes in the town’s main squares. So if you’re looking for a knight in shining armor, rather than a night on the town, Blois also serves as your Camelot crash pad and château launch pad—it’s close to Chambord and Cheverny.
ORIENTATION
Remember: what goes up must come down. In Blois, the train station rests at the top of a hill, and the main town (and the river) lies at its bottom. Luckily, this makes getting lost nearly impossible, since almost every path or road leading uphill heads toward the station, and every road heading down converges at the river. When in doubt, head down. It is also impossible to miss the Château and the Cathedral, the towering structures which dominate the town’s skyline. There are relatively few museums and sights here, so head for a leisurely stroll along the river if you have extra time.
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOTEL DE FRANCE ET DE GUISE
3 rue de Gallois
HOTEL
02 54 78 00 53 www.franceetguise.com
You may feel as if you have just followed Alice down the rabbit hole as you find yourself winding through the twisting corridors of this hotel. We suppose that the creaking staircases and grand mirrors add to the charm of the place. Located a short walk away from all of Blois’ attractions, the hotel is ideal for anyone wishing to explore the town.
Just north of the rue de Commerce, the hotel is on a corner opposite the Jardins Augustin-Thierry. Breakfast €7. Singles €49-55; doubles €55-65; triples €70-85.
CHTEAUX
From Blois as well as the renowned Château de Blois, the Tourist Office runs trips to two of the most magnificent châteaux in the Loire: Chambord and Cheverny. A bus runs three times a day, departing from the train station at 9am, 11:10am, or 1:40pm, then stopping at Chambord and continuing on to Cheverny at three possible times. The last bus back leaves Cheverny at 6pm. The bus costs €6 for the whole day, and can be used for a reduced entrance into the three châteaux (€1.50 discount at Blois, €1.50 at Chambord, €1 at Cheverny).
CHTEAU DE BLOIS
pl. du Château
CHTEAU
02 54 90 33 33 www.chateaudeblois.fr
The highlight of a visit to Blois is by far a trip to its stunning Château. Renowned for its elaborate architectural design—which incorporates Gothic, Renaissance, late 16th-century, and Classical styles—the building will leave you in awe of the minds of those who conceived it. Seven kings and 10 queens of France once used Blois Château as their Royal Palace back in the day, and the rooms were recently renovated and restored to their former glory. Survey the royal study for the secret compartments hidden in the walls, where Alexandre Dumas made Catherine de Medici hide her poisons. Make sure you visit the Musées de Beaux-Arts while you’re here; it occupies what was formerly the Royal Apartments. The museum houses paintings from the 16th to 19th centuries, including portraits of the royal families and a very explicit painting of John the Baptist’s head on a platter. The Musée Lapidaire provides insight into recovered rock pieces of other 16th- and 17th-century châteaux located nearby. For a particularly magical tour of Blois, a horse-drawn carriage ride departs from inside the Château every half hour in the afternoon. A light show is produced on the grounds every evening between Apr.-Sept.
Follow the rue de Gambetta from the train station. The Château will be directly in front of you, with stairs leading to the courtyard on your right. Guides available in English, but ring in advance to ensure someone will be there to lead it. Tickets can be combined with the Light Show and the Maison de la Magie. All 3 together cost €18, students €13, ages 6-17 €10. The Château alone €8, students €6.50, ages 6-17 €4. Open daily Apr- June 9am-6:30pm; July-Aug 9am-7pm; Sept 9am-6:30pm; Oct 9am-6pm; Nov-Dec 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm; Jan-Mar 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
all’s fair in love and châteaux
If you thought that you had a complicated love life, check out the tale that accompanies the Château Chenonceau and Diane de Poitiers, the mistress of Henry II.
After her husband died, Diane became the most eligible bachelorette in Francis I’s court, with her eyes set on the heir to the throne, Henry II. Despite his arranged marriage to Catherine de Medici, in 1533, Diane still pursued Henry and became his mistress shortly before the wedding. Rethink your normal ideas of gender roles and age differences in French affairs; Diane was 30, Henry was 14. Henry couldn’t be bothered to sleep with his 18-year-old wife, what with puberty and all, and ended up spending all of his time with Diane.
Diane was ever the pragmatist though, and was not keen on being the reason France was without an heir to the throne. She agreed to give Catherine some pointers in the sack in exchange for the freedom to continue to be with Henry. On any given night, Henry would lie with Diane, leave to be with his wife, and then return to Diane. Whatever the cool trick Diane taught Catherine, it worked. Henry fathered several other children, including the future Francis II, Henry III, and Charles IX.
Henry still very much loved Diane and, unbeknownst to Catherine, gave Diane the Château Chenonceau in the Loire Valley. Pedophilia clearly has perks, and Catherine resided at Chenonceau until Henry’s death. After Henry died in a jousting tournament however, Diane found herself the enemy of the mother of the king. Suddenly without a bargaining chip, Diane was strong-armed into trading Châteaux and downgrading to the lesser Château Anet, where Diane died 7 years after Henry’s death (still not a bad deal).
CHAMBORD
Chambord
CHTEAU
02 54 50 40 00 www.chambord.org
A truly royal experience awaits you as you grace the huge hallways and grand rooms of the former home of Louis XIV. The castle claims to be a “Place aux Rêves”; although Disney may soon want their slogan back, it’s hard to deny that the Sun King’s crib could take Cinderella’s castle in the Magic Kingdom any day. The stunning Renaissance design includes a cool double-helix open staircase on which those who go up never actually cross paths with those going down. The stairs lead up to the chimney rooftops, which boast an exceptional view of the canal and the wildlife reserve below. To bring the château to life and keep the kids entertained, there is a 3D movie room which introduces the history and architecture of Chambord through computer animation. Summer activities on offer include a Sound and Light show and an outdoor market selling traditional products.
40min. from Blois by bus, departs from the Gare at 9am, 11:10am and 1:40pm. High-season €9.50, ages 18-25 €8; low-season €8.50/7. Open daily from Apr to mid-July 9am-5:15pm; from mid-July to mid-Aug 9am-7:30pm; from mid-Aug to Sept 9am-6:15pm; Oct-Mar 9am-5:15pm. Sound and light shows from the end of June to mid-Sept.
CHEVERNY
Cheverny
CHTEAU
02 54 79 96 29 www.chateau-cheverny.com
Cheverny was open
ed to the public in 1922, but those who are fans of TinTin may already know plenty about it—the Loire château heavily influenced Moulinsort’s creation of the series. Since Cheverny has such a strong connection with the Belgian character, a life-size Tintin exhibition is open for you to enjoy, which includes models, life-sized drawings, and a retelling of the story set in this mysterious château. For those less interested in the activities of a cartoon explorer, the château has extensive grounds which can be explored by boat and electric car, both of which are ideal for experiencing the wildlife living in the flora. Inside the château, the furnished rooms make Cheverny look more like a homey castle than a museum of architecture.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 62