55min. from Blois by bus; departs from the Gare at 9am, 11:10am, and 1:40pm. €7.50. Open daily Apr-June 9:15am-6:15pm; July-Aug 9:15am-6:45pm; Sept 9:15am-6:15pm; Oct 9:45am-5:30pm; Nov-Mar 9:45-5pm.
AMBOISE
Amboise
CHTEAU
02 47 57 00 98 www.chateau-amboise.com
This late 15th-century building was once considered France’s most beautiful château, and it housed up to 4000 people during the 16th century. During the reign of Napoleon, most of the château was destroyed or sold off, and what you see now is the result of painstaking rebuilding renovations. Amboise château has a number of exhibits which change throughout the year; during the summer, it is also possible to embark on a guided tour of the underground tunnels, and enjoy the views of the castle by night on a guided “stroll under the stars.” Unlike the royal history at most of the other Loire castles, the most interesting and historically fascinating past resident of Amboise was Leonard da Vinci. Leonardo’s grave is in the Chapelle Saint-Hubert, just next the the château; pay your respects to this genius, and reflect on all the salacious revisions Dan Brown has added to his legacy. The rooms are decorated with Gothic and Renaissance furniture that demonstrates the castle’s royal history. A deserving resting place for one of the world’s greatest artist and academics.
The small town of Amboise is an hour’s journey from Orléans by train (€14 every hr). The castle is in the centre-ville between rue Victor Hugo and rue de la Concorde. For free parking follow signs for “parking du château.” €9.70, students €8.30, ages 7-14 €6.30, under 7 free. Open daily Mar 9am-5:30pm; Apr-June 9am-6:30pm; July-Aug 9am-7pm; Sept-Oct 9am-6pm; early Nov 9am-5:30pm; late Nov to Jan 9am-12:30pm and 2-4:45pm; Feb 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm.
FOOD
Lots of little traditional restaurants can be found in and around the streets of rue Saint-Lubin and place Poids de Rois. Italian, Chinese, Indian and Greek cuisine can be found in the place de la Resistance, which faces the Loire river. You can pick up groceries from the 8 à Huit at 11 rue de Commerce (Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-noon) or the Proxi Marché at 6 Rue Henri Drussy. (Open M 2:30-8pm, Tu-F 8:30am-1pm and 2:30-8am, Sa 9am-8pm, Su 9am-1pm).
LE CASTELET
40 rue St-Lubin
MEDIEVAL
02 54 74 66 09 [email protected]
Set in a rustic old house, this restaurant offers medieval-themed dishes (cider marinated chicken with seasonal vegetables ; €13) that will get you in the mood to see the local sights. The friendly owner will be happy to explain the origins and preparation of the dishes he serves. Vegetarian options available.
Situated on the corner of rue St-Lubin. From the bottom of the stairs to the Château, take a right. Set lunch menu €16, dinner €21. Open M-Tu noon-2pm and 7-10pm, Th-Sa noon-2pm and 7-10pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: 23 Pl. du Château (02 54 90 41 41. www.bloispaysdechambord.com. Open daily June-Aug M-Sa 9am-7pm; Sept 9am-6pm; Oct-Mar 10am-5pm; Apr-May 9am-6pm.)
• BANKS: ATMs available along rue du Commerce and along rue Denis Papin.
• LAUNDROMAT: 1 rue Jeanne d’Arc. ( Wash 8kg €5, dry €1 per 10min. Open daily 7am-9pm.)
• PHARMACY: Pharmacie des 3 Clefs. 30 rue Denis Papin. (02 54 74 01 35. Open Tu-F 9am-7pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: 42 quai St-Jean (02 54 90 09 00.)
• HOSPITAL: Centre Hospitalier de Blois. Maile Pierre Charlot (02 54 55 66 33. www.ch-blois.fr.)
Getting There
The train station is connected to the main Loire Valley stations as well as Paris. Amboise is a 20min train journey (€6) and Tours is a bit further along, taking about 40min. (€10). To reach Blois from Angers, which is further West, it takes around 1hr. 20min. (€23) and Orléans is a 30min. train journey east of Blois (€7.50). There are also connections to Paris which take under 2 hours (€26). The ticket office is open M-F 5:30am-8pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 7:30am-8pm.
Getting Around
Blois train station is within walking distance of the main city center and all the main sights can be reached on foot. Be prepared to walk up many sloping streets and sets of stairs to access different parts of Blois.
Buses are run by TUB (02 54 78 15 66. www.tub-blois.fr) which depart from the station, going along the river in the direction of the Youth Hostel roughly every half an hour (Line 4, €1.10) and 24hr. Taxis Radio are stationed at the pl. de la Gare for longer journeys or for heading to the castles (02 54 78 07 65). Bike rental is provided by Bike in Blois (02 54 56 07 73) and is located at the pl. de la Gare (€9 per ½day, €14 per day, €30 per 3 days.) There are dropoff points all along the Loire, including Orléans, Amboise, Villandry, Saumur, Angers, and Nantes. A leaflet with all dropoff points and contact details are available from the Tourist Office or the Bike Shop.
tours
0247
Tours (TOOR; pop. 142,000) is the liveliest of all the Loire cities; it may not have a grand château, but it can certainly be proud of its bustling nightlife. Historically, Tours lacks a local accent and is ultimately home to the “well spoken” of French society. Because of this, students from across the globe flock to Tours to polish their French-speaking skills, and a fellow student is never too far away. The grand Cathedral St-Gatien is one of the architectural highlights of the city, especially given that the Château de Tours has not withstood the test of time. Also home to some diverse museums and modern shopping complexes, Tours has a lot to offer in terms of history, sights, and entertainment for even the most jaded of travelers.
ORIENTATION
A lot of Tours was destroyed during WWII or has since been left to decay; only the vielle-ville really represents the true former glory of the town. Luckily, most of the activity in Tours centers on this area, which is very popular with students and younger crowds. Place Jean Jaurès, recognizable by its two grand fountains, marks the center of the city, with the Hotel de Ville positioned directly at its center; bld. Heurteloup runs east toward the train station, and boulevard Bérlanger runs west away from the center. Running north toward the banks of the Loire is the main shopping street rue Nationale, which used to be part of the main road and trade route between Paris and Spain; avenue de Grammont reaches south toward the Cher river. The majority of Tours’s nightlife and restaurants are situated at place Plumereau in the northwest vielle-ville, which is a 10min. walk from pl. Jean Jaurès. Most of the sights and shopping complexes are closer to, or more east of, the center.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Tours is full of students, so finding a decently priced youth hostel is not difficult at all. For those looking for a bit more luxury, it is possible to bag some dirt-cheap hotel rooms (without actually getting the dirt). Booking in advance is a good idea, especially in the summer.
AUBERGE DE JEUNESSE “VIEUX TOURS” (HI)
5 rue Bretonneau
YOUTH HOSTEL
02 47 37 81 58 www.ajtours.org
A hop, skip, and jump from Tours’s best bars and nightlife (so perhaps more of a hop, a trip, and a drunken stumble), this former university housing block is the best deal in the city and is always full of students. Many long-term residents stay here to learn French at the renowned university, and as a result this HI feels more like you’re back in the college dorms than your usual youth hostel. All rooms come with a sink and some with a balcony.
A 15min. walk from the train station. Head west along bld. Heurteluop, through pl. Jean Jaurès, and onto bld. Bérlanger. From there, turn right onto rue Chanoineau, which turns into rue Bretonneau. The hostel will be at the far end of the road, on your left. Breakfast included. Bedding provided, but bring your own towel. TV and common room/lounge area on 1st, 3rd, and 4th floors. All rooms with shared bath. Dorms €19. Required HI membership €7. Reception 8am-noon and 5-8pm.
SIGHTS
Museum-hungry tourists should pick up the Carte Multi-Visite at any museum for just €8. This little beauty gets
you free entry into five of Tours’s museums and a guided tour of the city. Just make sure to present the card to them at the museum.
MUSÉE DE COMPAGNONNAGE
8 rue Nationale
MUSEUM
02 47 21 62 20 www.ville-tours.fr
Imagine yourself as a child taking a few Lego bricks and building a small little house. Or building a gingerbread house with excessive amounts of frosting. Now, imagine if these designs you had in your head as a child were made in reality. And voila—welcome to the Musée de Compagnonnage, one of the most mind-blowing architectural wonders that you will ever experience. The building houses a semi-secret society of craftsmen from around the world who excel in all kinds of old-school artisanship; legend has it the society stems all the way back to King Solomon’s construction of the Temple of Jerusalem. For any budding craftsman (and woman, of course), there is tough competition to ascend to the ranks of the Campagnons, as this museum demonstrates. Highlights include a medieval castle made entirely out of sugar cubes, a bird cage molded to look like a château, model versions of grand stairways, massive wooden clogs the size of a man, and a very impressive sculpture of the human hand. The museum is also connected to a Museum of Wine, which documents the history of wine-making in France.
From pl. Jean Jaurès, head straight down rue Nationale until you meet the Loire. The museum is on your right. €5, students and under 25 €3.30, under 12 free. Open daily June 4-Sept M 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, W-Su 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm.
CATHÉDRALE SAINT-GATIEN
pl. de la Cathédrale
MUSEUM
02 47 70 21 00
After getting the French government on its side, this renovated 14th-century building once again rules the skyline of Tours. The highlight of this Gothic cathedral is undoubtedly its intricate stained-glass windows, which pattern the the floor of the cathedral with fragments of rainbow-colored light. Even more beautiful than the windows, however, is the choir which sings during Sunday morning mass (11am). The cathedral is the final resting place for the children of Charles VII, and a very interesting 16th-century sculpture marks their tomb. A visit to the Psalette cloister is also a definite must for this sight; not only does it highlight the mix of styles present in the building, but there is also a Gothic library and early Renaissance records office.
From the train station, head east along bld. Heurteloup and take a left onto rue Jules Simon. The cathedral is just past the Musée des Beaux Arts on the right. Free. Cathedral open daily June-Sept 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; Oct-Mar 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5pm; Apr-May 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Cloister open daily May-Aug 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm; Sept-Mar M 2-5:30pm, T-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 2-5:30pm; Apr daily 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.
CHTEAUX
Getting to and from the châteaux of the Loire can prove difficult, as they are not well served by public transportation. The cheapest option, which offers some freedom, is to hire a bike and ride to the châteaux. Détours de Loire (02 47 61 22 23 www.locationdevelos.com) can provide you with a bike and a map, all for just €14 per day. But getting to and from more than two châteaux in a day by bike will prove difficult. The most freedom and ease is gained from hiring a car at a place like Avis (in the train station 02 47 20 53 27), but the prices are often prohibitive for the student traveler (upwards of €120 per day). Fortunately, many companies provide plush minibuses which offer half-day and whole-day trips to the châteaux, departing from the tourist office at 9am or 1pm. Some possible choices are Touraine Evasion (06 07 39 13 31 www.tourevasion.com. ½ day €19-33, full day €44-51.), Quart de Tours (06 30 65 52 01 www.quartdetours.com ½ day €21-34, full day €45-50.),
CHENONCEAU
Château de Chenonceau
CHTEAU
02 47 23 90 07 www.chenonceau.com
The best known of the Loire châteaux, Chenonceau is an incredibly beautiful sight, with Renaissance-era arches that stretch over the Cher River and gardens that expand around the moat. Chenonceau, more so than any of the other châteaux in the area, is a “lady’s castle,” due to the influence of women on its architectural innovations, restoration, and further development. The original owner, Thomas Bohier, handed over the design of the château to his wife, Katherine, while he was away during the Italian Wars (1513-21). Due to official court rules, Henri II’s mistress, Diane de Poitier, was given control of the building in 1547, to which she added luxurious gardens and a bridge that remain to this day. After the death of Henri II, his wife, Catherine de Medici, forced Diane out and designed her own gardens to assert her superiority above her dead husband’s mistress.
For a more rural look at the château, follow the pedestrian route that takes you past a donkey field, a flower garden, and a 16th-century farm. The Master Gallery inside Chenonceau houses some stunning portraits, including works by Rubens and Tinoretto; the adjoining wax museum honors exceptional women throughout history. For a beautiful, and potentially wet, view of the river, you can hire a boat during the summer and make a splash on the current of the Cher. The truly magical Night Walk in the summer, set to the music of Arcangelo Corelli, allows you to view the château in full illumination.
Trains run to Chenonceau from Tours every 1½hr.; the trip lasts 30min. The station is by the entrance to the château. Night Walks June F-Su 9:30-11pm; July-Aug nightly 9:30-11pm. €10.50, students and under 18 €8. Open daily Apr-May 9am-7pm; June 9am-7:30pm; July-Aug 9am-8pm; Sept 9am-7:30pm; Oct 9am-6:30pm; Nov-Jan 9:30am-5pm; Feb to mid-Mar 9:30am-6pm; late Mar 9:30am-7pm.
VILLANDRY
Château de Villandry
CHTEAU
02 47 50 02 09 www.chateauvillandry.com
Built in 1536, Villandry was the last Renaissance château to be built in the Loire but rests on the foundations of a former medieval castle. The only remains of the medieval influence nowadays are the moat that surrounds the château and the gardens. Although the château is an impressive Renaissance building, the real beauty of Villandry comes from its Italian gardens, which are composed of over 125,000 flowers and 85,000 vegetables. For those on a romantic tour of the Loire châteaux, the Ornamental Garden is a must, with its floral representation of the four types of love: Tender Love, Passionate Love, Fickle Love, and Tragic Love. The maze in the Sun Garden is designed to offer a journey of self-discovery and spiritual fulfillment, although unlike the Greek labyrinths it was modeled after, this maze has no dead-ends.
Inside the château, the most impressive sight is the ceiling of the Oriental drawing room, which actually comes from the Maquedaducal Palace in Toledo, Spain. The room is surrounded by artwork and statues which the 20th-century owners of the château, the Carvallo family, built up over the century. Make sure you ascend to the keep, which provides a phenomenal bird’s-eye view of the gardens below you. The Cher and the Loire are visible through the valleys and forest that surround the château.
Follow the D7 west of Tours. Villandry is approx. 15km from Tours. Château and gardens €9, students and under 18 €5, under 8 free. Gardens only €6, students and under 18 €3.50, under 8 free. Open Mar 9am-5:30pm; June 9am-6pm, July-Aug 9am-6:30pm; Sept-Oct 9am-6pm; first half of Nov 9am-5pm; mid-Dec to early Jan 9:30am-4:30pm.
FOOD
For students on a budget, Tours is a dream come true. Almost every restaurant in town will try to entice you with a decently priced set lunch menu (usually €11-20). The restaurants along rue Colbert and pl. Plumereau are by far the least expensive and most popular, although it’s possible to find some good bargains elsewhere. The indoor food market at places des Halles (Open M-Sa 7am-7:30pm.) can fix you up with fresh produce to make your own meals, and during the summer the market extends outside Wednesday and Saturday mornings (7am-noon). The square in front of the tourist office has a weekly marché traditionnel (Tu 8am-noon), where you can pick up typical traditional cheeses, meats, and vegetables. For daily groceries and everyday food, try the ATAC by the train station (5 pl. du Maréchal Leclerc. Open M-Sa 7:30am-8pm) or the Monoprix supermarket. (
63 rue Nationale Open M-Sa 9am-8:30pm.)
MAMIE BIGOUDE
22 rue Châteauneuf
CRÊPERIE
02 47 64 53 85
It looks like a house Grandma would build. But grandmas are always a little bit crazy, and Mamie Bigoude is no different; we’re just grateful she left out the cats. Enter into her maison, which is complete with a kitchen, living room, lounge, garden, bedroom, and even a bathroom for you to eat in (don’t worry, there are other bathrooms for when you need pipi; they are tastefully decorated with 1960s French advertisements). The restaurant serves crêpes, galletes, and salads named after famous figures. Fancy a bite of Harry Potter? Or a nibble on TinTin, perhaps? And let’s not even get into the Chuck Berry salad. For the children, there is even a supervised play area, and for the adults there is enough humor hidden around the house to keep you entertained.
From pl. Plumereau, take rue de Change southward, which leads to rue Châteauneuf. Plates €5-15. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
The busiest and most popular location for students is around pl. Plumereau, where bars, restaurants, and a few clubs fill up with students both inside and outside during the summer months. The streets leading off the place are full of pubs and bars, especially the rue du Commerce, where finding an Irish pub is almost as easy as if you were in Dublin.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 63