AU TEMPS DU ROIS
3 pl. de Plumereau
BAR
02 47 05 04 51
Au Temps du Rois opens up before most people in Tours are awake and stays open long after most people have gone to bed. Owned by two best friends for over 20 years, the bar is decorated with fascinating tidbits, including a pair of golden boots, old theater posters, mosaic tables, and a collection of Petit Robert from across the years. With clocks telling you the time for Tours, Paris, London, New York City, and Japan, this bar manages to combine a traditional French feel with that of the modern world, making it a favorite with Tours’s international and French student scene. They’ve had some very renowned customers in the past, including Mick Jagger, who signed the bar’s guestbook. Perhaps second behind Mick was “Miss Mexico 2000,” who before conquering the Mexican beauty world used to pull pints here on a Sunday evening when she lived in Tours.
Northeast corner of p. Plumereau. All drinks €2.50-7. Open daily 8:30am-2am.
LA GUINGUETTE
BAR, RESTAURANT
This very bohemian hangout has neither a fixed address nor a telephone number, but that’s because it’s on the banks of the Loire river. Situated just by Pont Wilson, this outdoor bar and restaurant was founded around 5 years ago to combat the problem of the homeless not having anywhere to go. Now, the students of Tours populate the banks of the Loire in the summer and drink down beer, wines, and cocktails at La Guinguette while chillling to live music and sitting in chairs susupended from a tree or at the helm of a wooden boat. On summer weekends the riverside hangout is packed with an extremely diverse clientele, and everyone is made to feel welcome; just be careful when returning to the city at the end of the night. Walking home in groups is advisable.
Down the steps by Pont Wilson, at the bottom of rue Nationale. Drinks €3-8. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-2am, Su 11am-midnight.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: 78-82 rue Bernard Palissy (02 47 70 37 37 www.ligeris.com Open daily mid Apr-mid Oct M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 2:30-5pm; mid Oct-mid Apr M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-6pm, Su 10am-1pm.) If you’re looking for a comprehensive tour of Tours, the tourist office can suggest a route for you, and provides a train for guided tours of the city. ( €6, under 18 €3.)
• BANKS: ATM machines along rue Nationale. BNP Paribas (86 rue Nationale 08 92 70 57 05 Open M 2-6pm, Tu-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Bureau d’Information Jeunesse (BIJ) (78-80 rue Michelet 02 47 64 69 13 1hr. free internet access. Open M-Tu 1-6pm, W 10am-noon, Th-F 1-6pm.) Tourist Office. (€0.50 per 15min.). Top Communications, 68-70 rue du Grand Marché (02 47 76 19 53 €0.50 per 15min., €2 per hr. Open daily 10am-midnight.)
• POST OFFICE: Pl. bd Béranger (02 47 60 34 05 Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-5pm.) Branch office at 92 rue Colbert.
Emergency!
• POLICE: 70-72 rue de Marceau (02 47 33 80 69).
• HOSPITAL: Centre Hospatilier Régional. 2 bld. Tonnellé (02 47 47 47 47).
Getting There
The train station at Tours is one of the busiest in the Loire Valley. There are connections to most of the towns and cities of the Loire; you can reach Tours from Orléans in 1hr., and trains run frequently roughly every 30min. (€17). Blois can be reached on the same train in just over 30min. (€10). Tours is connected to Paris Est ( €46. 1½hr.) by a high speed train. Bordeaux connects directly with Tours in under 3hrs (€50).
Getting Around
Tours can be easily traveled on foot. Be warned though: what you think is a pedestrian-only zone may very quickly become a road. To reach places farther south, east, or west of Tours, the bus company Filbleau (9 rue Michelet.02 47 66 70 70 Open M-F 7:30am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm.) runs daily services. Bus tickets are bought on the bus, and cost €1.25 for a 1hr. ticket or €3.20 for a daypass. For those wishing to explore the Loire Valley by bike, the very helpful Détours de Loire can sort you out for €14 per day (35 rue Charles Giles 02 47 61 22 23 www.locationdevelos.com).
Finally, for travel once public transportation stops running (around 11pm), Taxis Radio run 24hr. from outside the train station at €1.40 per km during the day and €2.30 at night (02 47 20 30 40).
lyon
04
Ultramodern, ultra-friendly, and undeniably gourmet, Lyon (lee-ohn; pop. 453,000) is more relaxed than Paris and claims a few more centuries of history. Its location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers and along the Roman road between Italy and the Atlantic made Lyon an easy choice for the capital of Roman Gaul. Today, Lyon has shed its long-standing reputation as a gritty industrial city, emphasizing its beautiful parks, a modern financial sector, and a well-preserved Renaissance quarter. The city is best known as the stomping ground of world-renowned chefs Paul Bocuse and Georges Blanc and as an incubator of contemporary culinary genius.
ORIENTATION
Like Paris, Lyon is split into neighborhoods that have then been numbered, and are often referred to by their number (1èr, 2ème, etc.) For the purposes of this guide, we’ve split Lyon into four main areas: Presqu’ile, Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse and Terreaux. All these areas are west of the Rhône river. To the east of the Rhône, the only landmark of note is the main train station, Gare Part-Dieu. The Rhône and the Saône split Lyon into three sections, with the Vieux Lyon on the far west, Croix Rousse to the far north of the center section, Terreaux to the center, and Presqu’ile to the South of the center.
Vieux Lyon
Vieux Lyon is the most beautiful and oldest part of city, with its cobbled streets, religious buildings, and large parks. The Metro stop Vieux Lyon is in the center of the old town, near the Cathedral Saint Jean. The River Saône is to the east; the busy pedestrian streets of rue du Boeuf, rue Saint Jean, and Place du Change run north to south, and are lined with traditional restaurants. The Funicular at the Metro stop takes you to the top of the Fourvière, where the Basilica Nôtre Dame de Fourvière is located with the HI hostel at Saint-Jean.
Croix-Rousse
Croix-Rousse is at the north of the city and perched on top of a very large hill. Head here for some wonderful views of Lyon, and to explore the older buildings of the city, the Traboulles and the La Maison des Canuts. From the Metro Stop (Croix-Rousse), Grand Rue de la Croix Rousse runs northwards, passing many small shops, boutiques, and La Maison des Canuts. Head eastwards to rue d’Austerlitz for some amazing views of the river below and the expansive parks to the northeast; this area is also a hotbed of some brasseries and cafes, so stop and grab a drink before climbing down the hundreds of stairs.
Terreaux
Place des Terreaux (Hôtel de Ville) is to the north of the city center, and mainly in the 1èr. The area is one of the most diverse in Lyon, and hosts the breathtaking buildings of the Hôtel de Ville and the Musée Beaux Arts. From Place Terreaux three streets run southwards; rue Chenavard and rue Herriot which both lead to Place des Jacobins, while rue de la République runs to Place de la République. North of the square, up the hilly roads, is the Croix Rousse area.
Presqu’ile
The center of Lyon is focussed around Place Bellecour, where you will find the tourist office and lots of restaurants around the square. Rue Herriot and rue de la République both run from the northeast corner of Place Bellecour, which has a lot of shops and cafes along them. Rue Victor Hugo runs southwards from the square towards Place Ampère, around which you will find a lot of budget hotels close to train station Gare de Perrache. Place de la République and Place des Jacobins, both north of Place Bellecour, have fountains, restaurants, and shops around them and are useful for orientating yourself.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Most student travelers heading to Lyon check into the only hostel available in Vieux Lyon; consequentially, it can book up pretty fast. If you can’t get into the hostel, or if you’re in search of more comfortable accommodations, you can find some very quaint and charming places in the city’s center, where a sing
le room averages at €40-60.
Vieux Lyon and Presqu’ile
AJ DU VIEUX LYON
41-45, montée du Chemin Neuf
HOSTEL
04 78 15 05 50 www.fuaj.org
After conquering the massive hill in Vieux Lyon you may be ready to collapse (remember, there is a cable car), but the views you get from the HI Hostel in Vieux Lyon are worth the massive climb any day. Sitting on the terrace of the hostel you see the whole city expanding below you, cut by the two rivers, and during the summer you can lounge out and top up your tan. As this is the only hostel in the area, it’s full of fellow students. If you can, try and request a room with a view of the city.
Vieux Lyon. Walk up the hill or, take the Funicular to Pl. Saint-Jean. Breakfast and sheets included. Bring your own towel. 6-bed dorms €18. Reception 7am-1pm, 2-8pm, and 9pm-1am.
HÔTEL DE THÉTRE
10 rue de Savoie
HOTEL
04 78 42 33 32 www.hotel-du-theatre.fr
The owners of this very homey hotel open up their radiant rooms for rent. The reception area has a petite dining area, complete with wooden floors and a very authentic-looking leather sofa, while the standard rooms are a good size and feel very homey. For those with a few extra euro, the superior rooms are bigger, more spacious, and very plush, promising a peaceful night’s sleep in the center of Lyon. Bellecour Breakfast €6. Singles €59-64; doubles €64-70. Reception open 7am-11pm.
Terreaux
HOTEL LE BOULEVARDIER
5 rue Fromagerie
HOTEL
04 78 28 48 72 www.leboulevardier.fr
This quirky hotel is definitely worth checking out if you want a more interesting stay in Lyon. Compared to the standard offerings in the city center, Hotel le Boulevardier is one of the more eclectic (and good value) places to stay, from the colorful clocks covering the bar wall downstairs, to the old tennis rackets and golf clubs lining the hallways, to the modern art guiding you up the steep staircase to the rooms. The beds themselves are even covered with zany but tasteful covers like pink and green stripes or green polka dots.
Cordeliers. Breakfast €6. Singles €41-51; doubles €47-53; triples €62; quads €74. Reception open from 7am.
HÔTEL IRIS
36 rue d l’Arbre Sec
HOTEL
04 78 39 93 80 www.hoteliris.fr
The owner of this hotel personally ensures that the rooms are cleaned to the utmost in this hotel, which used to be a convent. The history of the building shines through, as the high vaulted ceilings make rooms feel much larger than they actually are. Potted plants contribute to an earthy and rather Mediterranean atmosphere for the place.
Hôtel de Ville Breakfast €6. Singles €55; doubles €60. Reception 7am-8pm.
SIGHTS
Vieux Lyon
Vieux Lyon is by far the most beautiful part of the city, with its cobbled streets, the Fourvière Hill, and mazes of streets and spiral staircases. For a more structured tour the Tourist Office provides a guide upon request.
BASILIQUE NOTRE DAME DE FOURVIÈRE
8 pl. Fourvière
BASILICA
04 78 25 86 19 www.lyon-fourviere.com
Despite being built just over 100 years ago and gaining its status as a Basilica in 1897, the Basilica (known in English as Our Lady of Forvière) is the crown of the skyline of Lyon. Locals call it un éléphant renversé, because the white marble facade makes it look like Dumbo has fallen over at the top of the hill. The beauty of the building is clear as you approach from below, but the closer you get, the more the real spectacles begin to emerge. Inside, there is a fantastic painting dedicated to the Virgin Mary, for whom the Basilica was named as thanks for her protection during the Franco-Prussian Wars. The Tour de l’Observatoire is open from July-Sept and offers a fantastic panaromic view of the city below. For a free view, head to the back of the basilica and gaze at Lyons sprawling below. Make sure you descend via the Chemin du Rosaire for a peaceful walk through a sloping park.
Vieux Lyon. Climb the hill until you reach the top, or take the Funicular from Vieux Lyon to Fourvière. Two tours of Tour de l’Observatoire are offered. The 45min. short tour takes you up 188 steps of the tower. The 1½hr. long tour takes you up the full 466 steps of the tower. Basilica free. Short tour €3, under 12 €1.50. Long tour €5, under 12 €3. Chapel open daily 7am-7pm. Basilica open daily 8am-7pm. Tours July-Sept daily 2:30pm, 4pm.
lyon: 2000 years and counting
Over the course of two millennia, Lyon has managed to preserve sites from Roman times all the way through the Renaissance. It’s your one-stop history tour of Europe in France:
43 BCE to 395 CE: Get a taste of Europe under the iron fist of the Romans by visiting the Fourvière District. The original site of the first Roman settlement Lugdunum, you can still visit the amphitheater and basillica, which has been converted to a Catholic Church now featuring a giant golden statue of the Virgin Mary.
12th-16th Centuries: The Middle Ages still very much exist in this district, with narrow streets and open market squares that offered a haven for painters and booksellers on the Rue Mercière in the 15th and 16th centuries. Visit the Museum of Printing, and you’ll find that no one could read back then.
Renaissance: In Vieux-Lyon, the 5th arrondissement is separated into three sections, all bearring the name of a Saint. St. Paul section is home to expensive hotels, given the original inhabitants were bankers; St. George has corridors and secret passageways that confound unsuspecting tourists and St. Jean is, appropriately, the focus of political power in Lyon.
Late Renaissance 17th-18th Centuries: The “Slopes of Croix Rousse” are home to the original European artisan: the silk spinner. In the Place Tolozan, you can find the still standing silk industry building, built in the 17th century, and old silk storage buildings that are connected by a series of passageways built by secretive silk workers.
MUSÉE GALLO-ROMAINS AND ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE
17 rue Cléberg
RUINS
04 72 38 49 30 www.musees-gallo-romains.com
Lyon, or “Lugunum,” as it was known to the Romans 2000 years ago, was one of the most important cities in the Empire back in the day. The top of this hill was the cultural hub for the city, with amphitheaters and other meeting points for the locals. These beautifully preserved ruins can now be explored and exploited for the great view of the city below. Even more exciting is the fact that the Théatre Romain is used for concerts; Vampire Weekend, Iggy Pop, and REM have all performed here. To learn more about the history of the archaeological site and discover more remains from Lugunum, head to the museum at the top of the site.
Vieux Lyon. Climb the hill and take a right at the Archéologique. Archaeological site free. Museum €4, students €2.50, under 18 free. Ruins open daily Apr 15th-Sept 15th 7am-9pm; Sept 16th-April 14th 7am-7pm. Museum open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
CATHÉDRALE SAINT-JEAN
Place Saint Jean
CATHEDRAL
Lyon’s Cathedral isn’t as stunning as the other religious buildings that dominate French cities, but the interesting quirks of this place are worth checking out. The stained-glass window at the east side of the building depicts Lucifer’s rejection from Heaven, with Lucifer displayed as a dragon. Not all the windows in the cathedral are religious. During the Nazi’s retreat in 1944 some of the windows were destroyed, and have since been replaced with non-religious abstract designs. The 14th-century Astrological Clock chimes several times a day, and features popping automatons that reenact the Annunciation.
Vieux Lyon Free. Open daily M-F 8am-noon and 2-7:30pm, Sa-Su 2-5pm.
Croix-Rousse
LA MAISON DES CANUTS
10-12 rue d’Ivry
MUSEUM
www.maisondescanuts.com
At the top of the Croix Rousse area (up a very steep set of stairs; you may want to take the Metro) is the location of Lyon’s silk haydays. Lyon dominated silk production in Europe for centuries, and in La Maison de
s Canuts you can have a guided look at how to make silk the old-fashioned way. There’s also a free exhibit with information on the history of the city’s silk industry; the adjoining shop sells handmade silk scarves, ties, and handkerchiefs, which are expensive but impressive (handkerchiefs €8.50).
Croix Rousse. Take the Metro from pl. Terreaux. Shop and exhibition free. Tours €6, students and under 25€3, under 12 free. Guided tours daily 11am and 1:30pm; groups can call to arrange a tour.
Terreaux
MUSEÉ DES BEAUX ARTS
20 Place des Terreaux
MUSEUM
04 72 10 17 40 www.mba-lyon.fr
Located in the ornate Palais St Pierre, the museum’s exhibits range from Egyptian mummies and hieroglyphics to the Ancient Roman bronze models of deities to 14th- and 15th-century Italian artwork. The first floor features an Islamic art collection with some beautiful pieces. Ascend the grand marble staircase to explore artwork from the 20th century, including some zany Picasso pieces. Classical pieces by Monet and Boucher are in the 15th- to 19th-century section, with a big collection of religious artwork further along the floor. Make sure you check out the gardens of Palais St Pierre, which have sculptures by Rodin and Bourdelle.
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