By Train
Lyon is served by two main train stations. The main station is Gare de la Part-Dieu, where all national and international trains depart from(5 pl. Béraudier Part-Dieu. Info desk open daily 5am-12:45am. Ticket window open M-Th 8am-8pm, F 7am-10pm, Sa 8am-8pm, Su 7am-10pm.) Gare de Perrache is where most trains that end their route in Lyon finish. (Pl. Carnot Perrache Ticket office open M 5am-9:45pm, Tu-Sa 5:30am-9:45pm, Su 7am-9:45pm.) Trains leave both stations to Dijon (€27. 2hr, every hr.), Grenoble ( €20. 1½hr, every hr.), Marseille ( €44. 2hr., every hr.), Nice ( €70. 6hr., 3 per day.), Paris ( €80. 2hr., 17 per day.), Strasbourg ( €53. 5hr, 6 per day.), and Geneva, CHE ( €28. 2-4hr., 6 per day.). The trains are run by SNCF. Their office is located at 2 pl. Bellecour, near the tourist office ( Open M-F 9am-6:45pm and Sa 10am-6:30pm).
Getting Around
Bordeaux can easily be tackled by foot. For longer journeys, the following options are available.
By Bus, Tram, and Metro
All public transport in Lyon is run by TCL (08 20 42 70 00 www.tcl.fr). There are TCL information offices at the bus and train stations Part-Dieu and Perrache, and also at major metro stations. A very useful plan of the bus routes and map of the city is available from the Tourist Office or the info centers. All tickets are valid for the metro, bus, and tram, and last either one hour (€1.60), or are valid for 10 separate journeys (€13.70; connections and changes included). Public transport runs daily from 5am-12:20am. Th-Sa there is an additional night bus service that runs from Pl. Terreaux to the University areas (every hr., Th-Sa, 1am-4am). The T1 Metro line connects the two train stations, Part-Dieu and Perrache directly. For reaching the top of Fourvière in Vieux Lyon, there are funiculars (cable cars) which run between Vieux Lyon, Pl. St-Jean hostle, and St-Just/Fourvière Basilica, until midnight (€2.20).
By Bike
Vélo’v (www.velov.grandlyon.com) has bike rental spots all around the city center, which makes grabbing a bike cheap, simple and easy. A day card costs €1, which allows you to take a bike from the docking station and use it at your leisure. The first half an hour of travel is free, and the second half hour is €1. Every half hour after that costs €2. You can pick up a map with the points from the internet, the bike points, or the tourist office.
bordeaux
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In addition to its well-deserved reputation as the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux’s grand 18th-century architecture makes this city by the river a photographic marvel. In some of France’s most elegant streets, hipsters hang out at Pl. de la Victoire in the student quarter, children splash in the waters of the miroir d’eau, and tourists with purple-stained mouths taste the best wines on the planet from the legendary vineyards of St-Émilion, Médoc, Sauternes and Graves. Come to Bordeaux first and foresmost for the viticulture, but stay for the panoramic views, the sophisticated culture, and the vibrant nightlife.
ORIENTATION
For a mental map of the city of Bordeaux, picture the Garonne River flowing north to south, then add Bordeaux on its west bank. Now let’s fill in the details. At the southern end of the city is the Gare St-Jean train station, which is a hike from centre-ville. To get to town, walk past the sex shops on Cours de la Marne until you reach Pl. de la Victoire, the student nightlife quarter. From here, turn right under the arch onto the pedestrian street Rue Ste-Catherine. Centre-ville in a straight shot ahead. You can also take tram C or bus #16 from the train station and get off at Pl. de la Bourse or the Esplanade de Quinconces, but that’s jumping the gun.
At the heart of centre-ville is Pl. de la Comédie. If you’re walking along Rue Ste-Catharine from the train station, this is where you’ll end up. The square is immediately recognizable by its opulent Grand Théâtre. Ahead on Cours 30 Juillet (the continuation of rue Ste-Catherine) you’ll find the Tourist Office, right before the Esplanade des Quinconces, a large plaza and an important public transportation hub. Back at Pl. de la Comédie, you can get to Pl. Gambetta, another one of Bordeaux’s centers of activity, by walking west for a short distance along Cours de l’Inentendance. Most budget hotels are located north of Pl. Gambetta, while the best cheap eateries are south of the Grand Théâtre in the streets coming off rue Ste-Catherine. Head west one one of them, Rue St-Rémi, to hit the Pl. de la Bourse. This square by the Garonne River is across the street from Bordeaux’s iconic public art installation, the miroir d’eau.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Although Bordeaux’s youth hostel is conveniently situated near the train station, the area is home to many a sex shop, and the 5-10min. walk from the nearest tram stop can be freaky at night. Great deals, especially for groups of travelers, can be found farther from the station in the centre-ville, on the streets around Pl. Gambetta. Reserve one to two weeks ahead in the summertime.
HOTEL STUDIO
26 rue Huguerie
BUDGET BOUTIQUE
05 56 48 00 14 www.hotel-studio-bordeaux.fr
A long-time Let’s Go favorite, Hotel Studio’s got a mixture of old and newly renovated rooms that might not be spacious, but have everything you need. From extra-comfy double beds, to cable TV, to futuristic tin showers in the full baths, you’ll be hard pressed to find better value in Bordeaux’s centre-ville, especially given the caring staff who makes this hotel feel like home. Ask for a spiffier renovated room and reserve ahead of time in July and August.
From Pl. Gambetta, walk along Rue Georges Clémenceau until a left turn onto Rue Huguerie just before the statue and traffic circle of Pl. de Tourny. Singles €28, renovated €33; doubles €30/38; triples €49; quads €65; quints €70. Reception daily 7:30am-8:30pm.
HOTEL CHIC DE LYON
31 rue des Remparts
BUDGET HOTEL
05 56 81 34 38
It seems like everything in this lovely hotel sparkles, from the crisp sheets to the white walls. Combined with the fresh smell, the high windows that let in ample air and light, and the occasional garden of potted plants, you’re in for a refreshing treat in a superb location. Every room has a full bath, and the staff is warm and welcoming.
Rue des Remparts is the street running past the Hôtel de Ville from Pl. Pey-Berland (where the St-André cathedral is) to Pl. Gambetta. Singles €35-37; doubles €49-53; triples €69. Reception 24hr., although there is an access code for guests to enter late at night.
a drunkard’s guide to france
• WINE: Surprise! There’s wine in France. There is also cheese and French people. Sarcasm aside, you can find it anywhere, but to go to the source, venture to Bordeaux, where Merlot grapes alone cover 50% of the region. Make sure to pick a wine that says Mis en Bouteille au Château on the label, which indicates that a wine was bottled at the château where the grapes were grown. If you go for Champagne, French law garentees that your bubbly white wine will have come from the area of the same name 100 miles east of Paris. André was barely champagne before, but it’s definitely sparkling wine now.
• PASTIS: It’s way too hot to eat much in Côte d’Azur, so sit back in your beach chair and sip Pastis. It’s a yellow, licorice flavored alcoholic beverage similar to absinthe, and the French drink 130 million liters of the stuff a year. In Marseille be sure to call it Pastaga, and don’t use the water served on the side as a chaser, it’s supposed to be mixed in with the liquor (like ouzo). Hemingway coined the combo of champagne and Pastis as “Death in the Afternoon,” warning us of the misery of a 5pm hangover.
• KRONENBOURG BEER: Not one to be outdone by beer chugging Germans, this beer brewed in Alsace hasn’t changed much since the first pint was fermented in 1664. Its hopsy flavor and alcohol content will make the Alps, and your date, much prettier.
• LIQUORS: You can be sure that all those sweet fruits in the Loire Valley, in some form or another, have been fermented. If you like oranges, you should be familiar with Anger’s Cointreau, but you might not know the cherry version Guignolet, which is also popular. There isn’t a restaurant that doesn’t have at least one of these li
quors mentioned in their dessert menus. Soufflé AU COINTREAU, anyone?
• ABSINTHE: The poison of choice of Parisian artists of the 19th century, the newly legal spirit was central to Bohemian culture. Known in French as “The Green Fairy” for its, ahem, inspiring effects, absinthe was originally given to French troops as an anti-malarial. Whether you’re feeling a bout a malaria coming on or if you’re simply seeking hedonistic fun, the Green Fairy surely will not disappoint (unless you’re expecting a hallucination).
For details on Bordeaux map, click here
HOTEL BALZAC
14 rue Lafaurie de Monbadon
HOTEL
05 56 81 85 12
Full of character, Hotel Balzac’s creaky staircase climbs to irregularly shaped and spacious rooms with rather sensual art on the walls. Between the dim reception, the hotel’s namesake, and its passé feel, you might just write the next great novel here. If you’re not a tortured artist with a rolled cigarette in hand, then at least you have a cheap place to stay and shower in central Bordeaux.
From Pl. Gambetta walk 1 block up Rue Georges Clémenceau and turn left at a 70 degree angle onto Rue Lafaurie de Monbadon. Singles €33; doubles €46.
AUBERGE DE JEUNESSE
22 cours Barbey
HOSTEL
05 56 33 00 70 www.auberge-jeunesse-bordeaux.eu
Shiny metal, bright colors, and lots of glass characterize the impressive modern architecture of Bordeaux’s municipally owned Auberge de Jeunesse. Nevertheless, given the water damage in need of repair and the location near Bordeaux’s red-light district, travelers will find better value in centre-ville. Dorms for 2, 4, or 6 sleep a total of 108 people in 30 rooms with bunk beds; most rooms come with interior showers, and some with toilets, in addition to cabinets for personal affairs. Relax in the lounge with a flatscreen and a foosball table.
3 large blocks along Cours de la Marne from Gare St. Jean. Follow well-marked signs. Breakfast, sheets, and internet included. Dorms €22. Breakfast 7:30-9:30am. Lockout 10am-2pm. Check-out by 10am. Doors close at 2am.
SIGHTS
Bordeaux isn’t short of fun, educational, or quirky ways to pass the time between glasses of wine. Admission to all of Bordeaux’s museums is free the first Sunday of every month.
TOUR PEY-BERLAND
pl. Pey-Berland
TOWER
05 56 81 26 25
For the best views of Bordeaux, climb 231 steps through an ever-narrowing spiral staircase to the top of the 50m-high Pey-Berland bell tower, named after one of the great archbishops of Bordeaux. Built in 1440 at a distance from the Cathédrale St-André in order to protect it from the bell’s vibrations, the tower ironically had no bells until 1853.
€5. Open daily June-Sept daily 10am-1:15pm and 2-6pm; Oct-May daily 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm.
MIROIR D’EAU
PUBLIC ART
Accessible from the grand buildings of Pl. de la Bourse and beside the banks of the Garonne River, Miroir d’Eau is a spectacular public art installment, and an icon of modern Bordeaux: a mirror made of water. Designed by the architect Michel Corajoud and installed in October of 2006, 2cm of water transform 130m by 42m of black granite into a reflective surface that captures a stunning panoramic view of the city. In additon to releasing billows of fog in computer-controlled cycles, the miroir d’eau is a particular favorite of little and not-so-little kids, who love to splash and play in its waters. Bring your camera, sketchpad, and people-watching glasses, especially at sunset.
Free. Open 24hr.
CATHÉDRALE ST-ANDRÉ
pl. Pey-Berland
CATHEDRAL
05 56 52 68 10
Sculpted angels and apostles adorn the cathedral’s facade, while Gothic windows allow natural light to illuminate an interior that has been home to many important royal weddings (a.k.a. alliances)—Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII got hitched here in 1137. Louis XIII and Princess Anne of Austria also tied the knot here in 1615, whereupon Louis walked through the “royal portal” on the north side of the church, an entrance that has allegedly not been used since. Today, the cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the stops for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago de Compostella.
Open daily 10am-12:30pm and 2:30-7:30pm. Guided visits June-Sept Tu-Su 3-5pm.
MAISON DU VIN
3 cours du 30 Juillet
WINERY
05 56 00 43 47
If you’re desperate to become a sophisticated oenophile (wine-lover) and you don’t have time to venture into the nearby wine country, then head to the Maison du Vin, an immense building directly across from the Tourist Office. The Maison houses industry offices, an extensive Bar à Vin (wine bar) staffed by professionals who guide tastings and an École du Vin (wine school) that offers a 2hr. “Introduction to Bordeaux Wines” in English and French with a comparative tasting of two reds and two whites. Those appropriately impressed can purchase the goods at two nearby wine shops. L’Intendant, a more intimate wine shop across the street, has an impressive selection of regional wines and a knowledgeable staff. (2 Allée de Tourny 05 56 48 01 29 Open daily 10am-7:30pm). Conoisseurs can then venture across the square to buy high-end bottles, crystal pitchers, and obscure gadgets at the classy Vinothèque, a store specializing in all things vin. (8 Cours du 30 Juillet 05 56 52 32 05 www.la-vinotheque.com Open M-Sa 10am-7:30pm).
Directly across from the tourist office. Tickets for the course can be purchased at the Maison du Vin or at the tourist office. Wine-tasting course €25. Bar à Vin €2-8 per glass of wine. Courses offered M-Sa 10am in English and 3pm in French. Bar à Vin open M-Sa 11am-10pm.
FOOD
Bordeaux boasts a range of local specialties, including oysters straight from the Atlantic, foie gras from Les Landes, and beef braised in St-Émilion wine. Restaurants cluster around Rue St-Rémi and Pl. St-Pierre, while small and budget-friendly options line the narrow streets between Pl. du Parlement to the east of Rue Ste-Catherine. Bordelais don’t usually eat before 9pm in the summer and restaurants typically serve meals until 11pm or midnight. Sample local fish and produce at the Marché des Capucins ( Open Tu-Su 6am-1pm) off Cours de la Marne, or head to the conveniently located Centre Commercial des Grands Hommes for all your grocery needs. The Centre is in the middle of the triangle made by Pl. Gambetta, Pl. de la Comédie, and Pl. de Tourny. Inside there’s a huge Carréfour grocery store with super-cheap prepared roasted chicken meals for €3.50. ( Open M-Sa 9am-9pm.)
LA PAPAYA
14 rue Ferdinant Philippart
AFRICAN
05 56 44 76 88 www.lapapaya.populus.org
A wonderful Malagasy and Réunionese restaurant (that’s the cuisine of Madagascar and the subtropical French island of Réunion due east) that serves up spicy, fruity, and all-round tasty stews on beds of white rice. Try the mutton cooked in massalé, a traditional Réunionese composite of cardamum, black pepper, coriander, cumin, and five other spices. Turns out that island food still goes down beautifully with a Bordeaux.
From Pl. de la Bourse, with your back to the 3 Graces Fountain and the Garonne River, take the left fork ahead of you. The restaurant is on your left. Appetizers €4.10-8. Plates €9.50-11. 80. Open M-Sa 7:30-10:30pm.
O’MIRROIR D’O CAFE
2 quai Louis XVIII
TRADITIONAL, SEAFRONT
05 56 44 59 59
As close to the banks of the Garonne as you can eat, this friendly cafe serves French dishes like steak frites and confit de canard that are simply delicious, especially when accompannied by Bordeaux’s world-famous wines. Skip dessert---it pales in comparison to the main courses. Afterwards, stroll down the river to the café’s namesake, the miroir d’eau, which looks best at sunset on a full stomach.
Quai Lousi XVIII is the avenue that follows the Garonne River. The restaurant is in between Pl. de la Bourse and Esplanade des Quinconces. Menu (appetizer + plate or plate + dessert) €14. Appetizers €5-7. Plates €9.50-13. Salads €9-11. Pizzas €9-11. Dessert
s €4-6. Open daily 8am-midnight.
TWIN TEA WINE
16 rue des Argentiers
SMALL PLATES
05 56 44 63 71 www.twinteawine.com
Looking for a truly gourmet experience? Come to this trendy small plates restaurant that doubles as a tea house and wine bar. Using seasonal and fresh produce, the owners have never cooked the same dish twice, but you can expect the likes of lamb and eggplant tajine or organic zucchini sautéed in fennel. If you’re not famished, one small plate (€4) and a basket of bread is enough, although 2 plates and a glass of sangria (€10) will ensure your satisfaction. Multi-talented, the owners also prepare homemade cakes and pastries, in addition to entertaining every evening during “happy time” with discounts on wine-tastings.
From Pl. de la Comédie and the Grande Théâtre, walk down rue Ste-Catherine until a left turn onto rue de la Devise. When the street opens into a small square, rue des Argentiers is at the far end beside the church. Small plates €4. 2 plates and a drink €10. 4 plates and a drink for brunch €12. Desserts €3,50. Dégustation of 2 wines with a plate €7. Glasses of wine €3. Sangria €2. Open Tu-W 11am-11pm, Th-Su 11am-2am. “Happy time” 7:30-9:30pm.
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