L’OMBRIÈRE
14 pl. du Parliament
TRADITIONAL
05 56 48 58 83 www.restaurantlombriere.com
Perfectly prepared French cuisine tastes better when it’s enjoyed beside a bubbling fountain amidst this chic restaurant’s ever-present crowds. Fixed menus include fusion choices like Yakitori-style Scallop and King Prawn Skewers (€15-25), but there are plenty of French staples available, including a meal-size salad with baked goat cheese and foie gras.
From Pl. de la Comédie and the Grande Théâtre walk down Rue Sainte Catherine until a left turn onto rue St-Rémi. Your next left will be on rue des Lauriers which leads to the open square of Pl. du Parliament. Menus €15-25. Appetizers €5.50. Plates €12-16. Desserts €4.50. Wines €3-5. 50. Open daily July-Aug 10am-2am; Sept-June 10am-3pm and 6pm-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
Given its student population of 70,000, Bordeaux is full of bars. Pl. de la Victoire is the student party quarter, and the streets around Pl. de la Comédie—especially those south of the Place off of Rue Ste-Catherine—are well-stocked with nightlife opportunities. For Bordeaux’s large nightclubs, clustered south of the city by mayoral decree, head to Quai du Paludate behind the Gare St-Jean train station. Travelers should exercise caution when walking in this area at night.
LA CALLE OCHO
24 rue des Piliers de Tutelle
CLUB
05 56 48 08 68
This never-ending bar is covered floor-to-ceiling with a love for all things Cuban, not to mention filled wall-to-wall with insane crowds of the young, beautiful, and partying from around the world. Move your hips to rockin’ Latin music until you can’t resist the allure of a mojito any longer.
From Pl. de la Comédie walk along Cours de l’Intendance with the Grand Théâtre to your left. Rue des Piliers de Tutelle is the second right turn. Beer €4. Mixed drinks €6. Open daily 5pm-2am.
EL BODEGON
14 pl. de la Victoire
BAR
05 56 96 74 02
This place dominates nightlife in la Victoire, the most popular student party quarter. DJ plays the latest club hits, and bartenders light booze on fire, while the exuberant crowd dances and drinks the night away. Come for karaoke on Wednesdays or weekly theme nights—“Foam Night” and “Vodka Redbull Night” are particularly popular. In addition to the huge drink menu, the bar also serves food daily (11am-3pm).
A straight shot down rue Ste-Catharine to Pl. de la Victoire. W karaoke or theme nights. Beer on tap €2.80-4.50. Open daily 6am-2am. Kitchen open 11am-3pm. Happy hour 6-8pm.
LE TROU DUCK
33 rue des Piliers-de-Tutelle
BAR
05 56 52 36 87
An intimate gay bar that’s really more of an excuse to gyrate to ’90s music, modern French hits and everyone’s favorite: Rihanna. When you’re not ordering a drink at the zebra-striped bar or watching wall-size music videos on the projector, take your pick from the young and cute guys.
From Pl. de la Comédie walk along Cours de l’Intendance with the Grand Théâtre to your left. Rue des Piliers de Tutelle is the second right turn. The bar is at the very end of the street. Beer €3.50. Mixed drinks €6. Open daily 10am-2am.
LE NAMASTHÉ
16 rue de la Devise
TEA HOUSE 06 67 52 69 68
You and the multiple Buddha statues can mellow out together on the leafy brews all night long on the satiny red cushions. This awesome alternative to any ordinary bar has dozens of teas from the Far East in addition to alcoholic beverages, so long as they’re not from France. Who knew tea could be so sexy?
From Pl. de la Comédie walk town Rue Ste-Catharine until a left turn on Rue de la Devise. Credit card min. €10. Tea pot €3.80-6. Beer €5. Foreign wine €5. Open M-Sa 7pm-1:30am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
To indulge in other kinds of Bordelais culture besides wine, pick up Clubs and Concerts at the Tourist Office, which lists every musical happening of all genres in the city. This town is a treasure trove for the indie music scene. Also inquire about a list of weekly free concerts on some of Bordeaux’s 40 organs; you’re guaranteed a visit to a beautiful church and a dose of good ol’ Baroque fun. Of course, for the big daddy of them all, visit the Grand Théâtre, whose ballets, operas, plays, and concerts run from Sept-Jun. When the theater isn’t in season, you can still take a guided tour of its magnificent interior.
GRAND THÉTRE
pl. de la Comédie
OPERA HOUSE
05 56 00 85 95 www.opera-bordeaux.com.
The austere facade of this 18th-century opera house conceals a breathtakingly intricate Neoclassical interior, with a blue dome you will never foget. To see it, attend an opera, concert, ballet, or play---or give your wallet a bit of a break by taking a daytime tour in English or French.
Tickets €8-80. Special student discount offers 3 shows for €24. Tours €3. The Opera House is closed for performances July-Aug, but open for tours. Ticket office open Sept-Jun Tu-Sa 1-6:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The main tourist office distributes an 80-page Welcome to Bordeaux guide and provides maps, brochures, and help with same-day hotel reservations. There’s an entire desk dedicated to arranging visits to the vignobles (wineries). (12 Cours du 30 Juillet. 05 56 00 66 00 www.bordeaux-tourisme.com Tram line B or C, Pl. de Quinconces. Open July-Aug M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 2-7pm, Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Sept-Oct M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 2-6pm, Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Nov-Apr M-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-6pm, Su 2-6pm; May-June M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 2-6pm.) Tourist Office Gare St-Jean helps with transportation and hotel reservations. (05 56 91 64 70 Open May-Oct M-Sa 9am-noon and 1-6pm, Su 10am-12pm and 1-3pm; Nov-Apr M-F 9:30am-noon and 2-5:30pm.)
• TOURS: The tourist office offers organized tours in English and French. Walking tours take place July 15-Sept 15 daily at 10am and 3pm; Sept 16-July 14 daily at 10am. (05 56 00 66 24 €8, students €7. 2hr.) There are also tours with the same duration and price on roller skates, bikes, boat, taxi and cabriolet. Woah. More importanty, there are affordable (€27) and excellent bus tours to the wine regions of St-Émilion, Graves, and Médoc. Of course, there are also fancier day-excursions for €90.
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: You have to ring multiple doorbells and climb one flight of stairs to reach the security-heavy Bureau de Change Kanoo. (11 Cours de l’Intendance 05 56 00 63 33 €8 fixed commission on all cash exchanges. 2.5% commission on traveler’s checks. Open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm.)
• YOUTH CENTER: CIJA helps with employment and long-term accommodations. Free internet access and SNCF train ticket purchase inside. Also distributes LINDIC, a student guide to Bordeaux. (125 Cours d’Alsace Lorraine. 05 56 56 00 56 Open July-Aug M 1-6pm, Tu-F 9am-6pm; Sept-June M 1-5pm, Tu-F 9am-5pm. Closed for 1 week in Aug, usually around the 2nd week.) A branch office is around the corner on 5 Rue Duffour Dubergier. ( Open M-Th 9:30am-6pm, F 9:30am-5pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: I.Phone. (24 Rue Duplais Gallien 05 57 85 82 62 €0.50 per 15min. Open M-Sa 10am-10pm, Su noon-10pm.) L@ Cyb. (23 Cours Pasteur 05 56 01 15 15 €0.75 per 15min. Open M-Sa 10am-2am, Su 2pm-midnight.)
• POST OFFICE: The post office has Western Union and Poste Restante with Postal Code 33065. (32 Pl. Gambetta 05 57 14 24 60 €0.58 per letter received. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: Police 17. Ambulance 15.
• POLICE: L’Hôtel de Police. (23 Rue Francois Sourdis 05 57 85 77 Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITAL: Hôpital St-André. (1 Rue Jean Burguet 05 56 79 56 79)
Getting There
By Plane
There’s an airport in Mérignac 11 km. west of Bordeaux. (05 56 34 50 50 www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr) A navette run by Jet’bus goes from centre ville to the airport. ( €7, under 26 €6; round-trip €12/10. 45min., every 45min. 7:45am-10:45pm.) There are stops at Gare St-Jean, the Tourist Office, and Pl. Gambetta. Air France has an office at 37 Allée de Tourny. (36 5
4 Open M-F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9:30am-1:15pm).
By Train
Gare St-Jean (Rue Charles Domercq 36 35 Ticket office open M-Th 5am-9:40pm, F 5am-10:35pm, Sa 5:40am-9:40pm, Su 6am-10:30pm.) sends trains to Lyon ( €67.40. 8-10hr., 1 per day.); Marseille ( €75.40. 6-7hr., 5 per day.); Nantes ( €45.70. 4hr., 3 per day.); Nice ( €93.40. 9-12hr., 2 per day.); Paris ( €69.80. 3hr., 20 per day.); Poitiers ( €36.70. 2-3hr., 16 per day.) Renne (€58.50. 6hr., 3 per day either through Nantes or Paris.); Toulouse ( €36.30. 2-3hr., 17 per day.)
By Bus
Réseau TransGironde (05 56 43 68 43 www.citram.com) buses travel to many small towns surroudning Bordeaux including St-Émilion (301 and 302) and Pauillac (705), both important viticulture destinations. Ask at the tourist office for schedules and prices. Be aware that buses are decentralized and leave from Esplanade de Quinconces, Gare St-Jean, and several other centers throughout the city.
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
TBC runs a bus and tram system. (05 57 57 88 88 www.infotbc.com, www.reseautbc.com 1 ticket €1.40; carnet of 10 or a 7-day-pass €10.60, under 28 €8; 1-day pass €4.10; night pass valid from 7pm-5am €2.30. Trams A, B, and C run daily 5am-1am.) Ticket and information offices at 9 Pl. Gambetta ( Open M-F 8am-7:30pm, Sa 9:45am-12:25pm and 2-6pm.), Esplanade des Quinconces ( Open M-F 7am-7:30pm, Sa 9:45am-12:25pm and 2-6pm.) and at the Gare St-Jean train station ( Open M-F 7am-7:30pm, Sa 8:30am-3pm).
By Bike
Pierre Qui Roule. (32 Pl. Gambetta 05 57 85 80 82 www.pierrequiroule.fr €10 per day, €20 per weekend, €45 per week. In-line skates and pads €6 per half-day, €9 per day. Open M 2-7pm, Tu-Sa 10am-7pm.)
By Taxi
Taxi Télé. (05 56 96 00 34 €1.46 per km during the day, €2.19 per km after 7pm. €30-45 to the airport.)
saint-émilion
05
Located 35km northeast of Bordeaux, the famed viticulturists of St-Émilion have been refining their technique since Roman times---and it shows. Local winemakers nourish over 5400 acres, gently crushing the grapes to produce two and a half million liters of wine each year. The medieval village’s antiquated stone buildings, twisting narrow streets, and religious monuments ensure a charming visit.
ORIENTATION
St-Émilion is a tiny village, surrounded by miles of vineyards. Indeed, it’s small enough that you can walk from one end of town to the other in less than ten minutes. If you arrive at the train station, turn right onto the main road and walk 2km north into town on Rue Porte Bouqueyre (or take a cab). Once you arrive, there are well-marked signs for the tourist office, which is located on Rue du Clocher, just opposite the belltower of the Église Monolithe church, the tallest structure in the village and your principal landmark. South of the Tourist Office is Rue Guadet, where you’ll find several wineries and Montagne D122, a highway that leaves town. The highway leaves town at the traffic circle, Pl. Bourgoise, where bus #302 from Bordeaux drops you off. Less than one block north on highway D122, where you’ll find St-Émilion’s grocery store. Continue straight for another 3km to reach the campsites.
ACCOMMODATIONS
It’s difficult to plan more than a daytrip to the lovely village of St-Émilion, since you’ll be hard pressed to find budget accommodations. St-Émilion’s least expensive bed and breakfasts are many miles outside of town, and hotels in the village proper start at €70 per room. Your best option is the campsite, which is 3km north of town on highway D122.
DOMAINE DE LA BARBANNE
Route de Montagne D122
CAMPSITE
05 57 24 75 80 www.camping-saint-emilion.com
St-Émilion’s closest campsite and most affordable accommodation is 3km outside in the heart of the wine country. With leafy tent sites, an emerald lake for paddleboating, a sparkling pool, and amenities like on-site kitchens, a grocery store, and a restaurant (plates €9-13), the campground is better value than any budget hotel. And, since you won’t find budget hotels in St-Émilion, it’s your only choice. The downside is the distance from town, so it’s best to rent a bike, although take extreme care on the highway.
Provence
From Pl. Bourgeoise, walk north on Route Montagne or highway D122 through 3km of vineyards. You’ll be turning right at the sign for “Camping.” The walk takes 30-45min. but BE CAREFUL since you are walking on a highway. Reserve in advance. Bike rental available. Apr-June and Sept-Oct tent sites €18, with electricity €22; €6.50 per additional camper. July 2-8 tent sites €26.50/30.50; €8 per additional camper; July 9-Aug tent sites €30/35; €9 per additional camper. Reception M-Th 8:30am-9pm, F-Su 8:30am-10pm.
FOOD
St-Émilion’s only grocery store is perfect for a picnic among the vines. If you plan to sit down at one of the town’s restaurants, expect to pay €10-20 for a plate and search Pl. du Marché for typically French fare.
L’ÉPICERIE
pl. Bourgeoise
GROCERY
05 57 24 70 08
This cute grocery store is the optimal way to eat for budget travelers. There is an impressive cheese counter, four kinds of fresh bread, fruits, vegetables, all kinds of packaged goods and of course, jars of Nutella.
20m on highway D122 past Pl. Bourgeoise, the northern border of town where bus #302 from Bordeaux drops you off. A 2min. walk from the tourist office. Open M-Sa 8am-7:15pm, Su 8am-6:15pm.
BAR DE LA POSTE
6 pl. du Marché
CONTINENTAL
05 57 24 70 76
A casual, reasonably priced restaurant that serves a little of everything beneath the belltower of St-Émilion’s Église Monolithe. In warm weather, you’ll join the crowds outside for healthy portions of salad, pizza, pasta, fish, or meat—accompanied, of course, by the pièce de la resistance, St-Émilion red wine.
In the square beneath the belltower of Église Monolithe. It’s easiest to follow the signs for the church from the Tourist Office. Salads €8.50-12. Sandwiches €4.80-6. Galettes €6.50-13.50. Pastas €9.50-16.30. Pizzas €9-13. Plates of meat and fish €12-18. Menu du jour €14.50. Open daily 9am-midnight.
RECETTE DES VÉRITABLES MACARONS
9 rue Guadet
BAKERY
05 57 24 72 33 www.macarons-saint-emilion.com
Not only are the macaroons in this shop made with a 400-year-old recipe, the little almond cookies also took part in the 1867 World Fair in Paris. As the story goes, the secret recipe was concocted in a convent in 1620 under Mother Superior Sister Lacroix, and was subsequently passed down to the widow, Mrs. Goudichaud, to whom the recipe is attributed today. After all the hype, an actual bite reveals the macaroons to be delicate and flavorful. Sadly, they are none too cheap. Ask for a taste before you purchase a box of 36. €10 for a box of 36 macaroons. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 9am-7pm.
SIGHTS
ÉGLISE MONOLITHE
CHURCH
Carved by Benedictine monks out of solid rock over the course of three centuries, the Église Monolithe is the largest and best preserved subterranean church in all of Europe. Giant iron clamps keep the columns from collapsing under the combined stress of the heavy bell tower, which was added in the 17th century. The damp underground catacombs, a burial place for infants and wealthy monks, and the adjacent cave of the hermit Émilion, represent only a small portion of the 70 acres of underground galleries that have yet to be excavated. To visit, you must take one of the 45min. guided tours, which depart from the tourist office. €6.70, students €4.20. Tours in French at 10:30am, 11:30am, and 2pm-6pm every hr. Tours in English at 2:30pm and 4:30pm.
VINEYARDS
The easiest way to experience the vineyards is to register at the tourist office for guided visits (starting at €18 for a 3hr. tour). Free spirits can pick up a map from the tourist office, rent a bike, and travel to the collection of châteaux several miles outside of town. Plan ahead, since many of them require reservations several days in advance. Luckily, it’s not hard to experience St-Émilion wine in the village i
tself, with a handful of châteaux, associations, and shops offering tours, dégustation or wine-tastings and a generally thorough education in some of the world’s most renowned red wine.
CHTEAU VILLEMAURINE CARDINAL
WINERY
05 57 24 64 40
The only château within 2min. of the village promises to teach you all the basics in under an hour. A tour in English or French of this family-run winery comes with a fabulous explanation of the production process, from its hand-picked beginnings to the final corking. Thousands of bottles and barrels in the dark and clammy caves are a sight to behold, and the dégustation at the tour’s end covers all five steps of wine-tasting. Pay €5 to become an oenophiliac. It sounds dirty, but it means you’re beginning a lifelong love affair with wine.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 67