Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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PLAGE DU PONT DULYS
bld. Charles Guillaurmont.
One of the most youth-centric beaches in town. It’s far enough from the city’s center to keep out the elderly and children, but not quite out of the reach for lazy teenagers.
PLAGE LA GALLICE
bld. Boudoin
The closest beach to the town, La Gallice is right next to the port, so you can watch the boats sailing in and out of the harbor. You can also get some good people watching in, since this beach is also the most crowded.
PLAGE EPI HOLLYWOOD
bld. Boudoin
Just out of reach of the city, this beach is where you’ll most likely find skinny dippers around 5am who’ve just been kicked out of the nearby clubs. During the day it’s pretty quiet and provides some escape from town.
FOOD
LE SWEET CAFFE
16 bld. Baudoiinâ
DINER
04 93 67 82 12
This relaxing cafe and diner lies on the edge of Juan-les-Pins’s party district. Come here after leaving the party early to munch on everything any other restaurant in Juan les Pins has to offer, but at lower prices. The outside patio is lively at night.
Pizzas €8.40-11. Crêpes €3.30-9. Salads €7-13. Cocktails €8. Ice cream cocktails €8. Open May-Sept 8am-2am or later; Nov-Apr 8am-7pm.
LE RUBAN BLEU
promenade du Soleilâ
BRASSERIE
04 93 61 31 02 plage.rubanbleu@wanadoo.fr
Beachfront brasserie and restaurant that is ideal for watching the young and the fabulous strut their stuff down the boardwalk. You’ll pay for the awesome view, unfortunately; the prices here get pretty high. An outdoor seating area opens up on the beach as the night wears on.
Plates €19-25. Crêpes €3.50-5. Open M-Sa noon-3pm, Su noon-4pm. Beach restaurant open F-Sa 7:30-10:30pm.
LA BAMBA
18/20 rue Docteur Datheville
PIZZERIA
04 93 61 32 64
Upscale pizzeria and restaurant a block away from the shopping and party center of Juan-les-Pins. Open air restaurant where you can still feel the heat from the woodfired stoves in the back.
Dishes €13-15. Pizza €7.80-14. 3-course prix-fixe menu €17.50. Open daily noon-10:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
PAM PAM
137 bld. Wilson
BAR
04 93 61 11 05 www.pampam.fr
Brazilian bar that serves drinks out of tiki statues. Bright-colored and life-sized tiki gods take the stage with festively dressed dancers at 10pm. Outdoor seating allows some escape from the bongo drums.
Apértifs €5. Cocktails €8-12. Open daily 3pm-3am.
L’IDEM
6 bld. de la Pinede
BAR, LOUNGE
06 09 53 02 49 www.lidem06.unblog.fr
There’s 24/7 salsa dancing at this lounge and bar, a block away from the crazy clubs and parties. Skills range from beginner to the pros, who are all too happy to take a greenhorn onto the floor. Lessons are available, and include a night with your instructor or partner on the floor every Thursday night (€12-22).
Beer €6. Liqueur €5-10. Cocktails €9. Open M-Th 7pm-1am (or later), F-Sa 7pm-4am (or later), Su 7pm-1am (or later).
LE CRISTAL
av. Georges Galliceâ
BAR
04 93 61 62 51
A chill crowd gathers on the terrace to watch local clubbers strut by, or they surround the bar to watch the barmen (literally) juggle bottles as they mix their special ice cream cocktails (€10).
Ice cream cocktails €10. Open daily 8:30am-2:30am.
ZAPATA
av. du Docteur Dautheville
BAR
www.juanbynight.com
Think you’ll only see someone order 10 shots for himself in Mexico? Think again. We saw it at this Mexican bar, which specializes in shots of “fuego” (gin, run, vodka, spices and lime.) Walls covered in old pre-Revolution photos of Zapata and Hidalgo.
Tequila shots €6. Beer €7. Open daily 7pm-3am.
LE VILLAGE
1 bld. de la Pinede
DISCOTHÈQUE
04 92 93 90 00
Crowds line up early and stretch across the street for this Cuban-themed discothèque and bar du nuit. Anticipation for nightly DJ mixes and live performances throughout July and August keeps the city buzzing all year.
Cover €13. Drinks €9. Open July-Aug daily midnight-5am; Sept-June F-Sa midnight-5am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: 51 bl. de Charles Guillaumont. From the train station, walk down ave. Maréchal Joffre and turn right when you hit the beach. Tourist office is 2min. away on the right, at the intersection of ave. de l’Admiral Courbet and ave. Charles Guillaumont. (04 97 23 11 10 www.antibes-juanlespins.com. Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 10am-5pm.)
• LAUNDROMAT: On the corner of ave. de l’Esterel and ave. du Docteur Fabre. ( 04 93 61 52 04 Wash €3.90, dry €.050 per 15min. Open daily 7am-10:30pm.)
• INTERNET: Mediterr@net, 3 ave. du Docteur Fabre. (04 93 61 04 03 €3 per hr. Open M-Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10am-9pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Ave. de Maréchal Joffre. (04 92 93 75 50 Open M-F 8am-noon and 2-5:45pm, Sa 8:30am-noon.) ATM available on opposite side (ave. Doctuer Fabre).
• POSTAL CODE: 06160.
Getting There
To get to Juan-les-Pins by train, go to the Gare SNCF station (ave. de l’Esterel. Open daily 6:30am-8:55pm. Ticket window open 8:50am-noon and 1:30-5pm.) To Antibes (€1.25.5min., 25 per day.), Cannes (€1.75. 10min., 25 per day.); Monaco
(€6.80.1hr., 10 per day.); Nice (€4.10.30min., 25 per day.). You can also get to Juan-les-Pins by bus (04 93 34 37 60.) Bus #1 (€1.10min., every 20min. 7am-8pm) runs from Sillages to pl. Guynemer in Antibes, where you can transfer to the Gare Routiere (regional buses). Night bus #1 between pl. de Gaulle in Antibes and Juan-les-Pins in summer only (Jul-Aug 8pm-12:30am). Taxis (04 92 93 07 07 or 08 25 56 07 07.) At the Jardin de la Pinede and outside the train station. The bus from Juan-les-Pins to Antibes is €14-16.
Getting Around
Most of Juan-les-Pins is very walkable; the only problem that we suspect will arise is deciding which beach you should settle on before you start breaking a sweat. If you are completely averse to exercise, the tourist train is more than happy to shuttle you around to see the surrounding sights, in case you don’t want to walk there yourself. (06 15 77 67 47 Runs from bld. Boudoin to Antibes, then the vieille ville, and back again to Juan-les-Pins. 30min.; Mar-Oct Mo-Su every hr. 10:30am-6:30pm, Jul-Aug runs every hr. 7:30-11:30pm).
cannes
0493
This star-studded, glitzy city on the water definitely has its pricey side, especially during the film festival. If you plan your trip carefully, though, Cannes is probably one of the cheapest places for backpackers to go on the French Riviera. Defined by a distinctly laid back atmosphere for 10 months out of the year (July and August see massive swells in millionaires and their paparazzi, of course), Cannes harbors some of the best that Côte d’Azur has to offer in shopping and beaches, not to mention the fresh shellfish at any of its open air markets. The club scene can be a little intimidating at first, but dressing up just a little bit will go a long way when it comes to getting past the bouncers. In fact, dressing up in general is a good idea here, if only to fit in. Between the hours of 7 and 8pm, locals and tourists magically go from topless and nude (always in vogue here) to full makeup or sports jackets. Don’t get caught on the wrong side of this unspoken dress code.
Everyone knows about the Cannes Film Festival, and the city’s residents benefit from it; local movie theaters here are able to show Palm d’Or winners before anywhere else in the world. The Palais des Festivals hosts additional expos and concerts throughout the year, which puts Cannes in the party mood almost all the time. You might have to splurge on accommodations—a centrally located place in the city and near the beach is worth the price. Hostels have yet to find t
heir way to the pricey coast of southern France.
ORIENTATION
Cannes is a very easy city to get around; it’s a lot smaller than you imagined it was in that last dream of yours where you won Palme d’Or and exchanged room keys with Matt Damon. The town can be easily divided into two areas—the expensive part of town and the normal part, where the actual residents live. To the East of the Palais des Festivals, the hotels, prices, and breast augmentations get bigger. With names like Dior and Chanel scattered around the private beaches, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. If the bling is too much for you, head back towards the Castre—the large castle on hill to the West—back to the Suquet, where the restaurants are intimate, the prices are lower and people in general are a little more mellow. The nightlife thrives around rue Doctuer Gerard Monod, but residents generally stick to the cafes and brasseries that line rue Felix Fauvre. The best (and free) bacchanalias are further West past the Vieux Port, where you’ll find the local population of the young and the restless partying it up almost year round.
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOTEL ALNEA
20 rue Jean de Riouffe
HOTEL
04 93 68 72 77 www.hotel-alnea.com
Upscale hotel with walls covered in paintings reminiscent of Gauguin’s Tahiti phase. Bright colors make this place come alive, and the beach theme will soon have you dying to go to work on your tanline. Large, clean rooms are each themed according to a famous tropical island or locale.
From the train station, turn right and walk to the MonoPrix. At the intersection, keep going straight one block to rue. Jean de Riouffe. Turn left. Hotel is on your immediate left. Breakfast €7.50. Singles €60; doubles €70; twin €80. Check-In 2pm, Checkout 11am. Reception 8am-8pm.
HOTEL 7
23 rue Maréchal Joffre
HOTEL
04 93 68 66 66
This star-studded hotel opened in January 2010 and still has that new car smell. Pictures of old movies and movie stars are framed on the silver, chic walls. The minimalist decor in the rooms make them feel less small. Handicapped room on ground floor is opened up into a TV lounge when not occupied.
From the train station, turn right and walk until the highway entrance. Walk up the sidewalk to the highway and make a left onto Maréchal Joffre. Hotel will have movie posters on the side facing the train station. Breakfast €6. Handicapped room on ground floor. Singles €60; doubles €70-80. Family room (4 person) €90.
HOTEL PLM
3 rue Hoche
HOTEL
04 93 38 31 19 www.hotel-plm.com
Boutique hotel with deals if you stay for a while. Clean, nice smelling rooms with purple bathtubs make this simple hotel worth the extra euros, if only to avoid the local dumps.
From the train station, walk right down Juan Juares. Turn left at rue de 24 Aout. Walk for one block until at rue Hoche. Turn right and walk one block. Hotel on right. 3rd night 25% off. 6th night is 50% off. Breakfast €8. Singles €46-71; doubles €54-79; superior doubles €59-85.
HOTEL MIMONT
39 rue Mimont
HOTEL
04 93 39 51 64 www.canneshotelmimont.com
Still the best budget option in town. Large, clean rooms for relatively cheap, and special petit chambres with bed, sink, shared toilet, and shower upon request. On the other side of the train tracks, but still 5min from town. Theincredibly hospitable hosts speak English and are very welcoming to Let’s Go readers and Americans, who seem to be the majority of their clients.
From the train station, turn left and take the underpass next to the tourist office to rue Mimont. Turn right, and walk fof 3 blocks past the post office. Hotel is on your left. Breakfast €6.20. Petit chambre €30; singles €37-43; doubles €42; triples €58.
SIGHTS
L’ÉGLISE DE LA CASTRE
CHURCH
Towering over the old city and Vieux Port, this church provides crystal clear views of Cannes all the way to Palm Beach on a clear day. The local landmark nearly bankrupted the city, which had to constantly fundraise for 80 years to complete the stucture and commission its glass and crystal chandeliers, not to mention the neo-Gothic organ that puts Notre Dame’s to shame.
Free. Open daily June-Aug 9am-noon and 3:15-7pm; Sept-May 9am-noon and 2:15-6pm.
MUSÉE DE LA CASTRE
MUSEUM
04 93 38 55 26
Formerly the private castle of the monks of Lérins, this museum houses a permanent collection of ancient relics from the Americas, as well as a display of musical instruments from around the world. The only thing relevant to Cannes is its Provencal art collection from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, which feature depictions of day-to-day life in the city.
€3, students €2. Open Tu-Su July-Aug 10am-7pm; Sept and Apr-June 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Oct-Mar 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.
CASINO CRIOSETTE
1 espace Lucien Barrière
CASINO
04 92 98 78 00
The most accessible casino in the area, Criosette features slot machines, blackjack, craps and roulette, as well as a series of fake statues of Greek gods. Kinda like Vegas, only less sleezy. Wait, nevermind: a bunch of guys with slicked hair and their shirts unbuttoned to their belly button just walked in.
No dress code for slots. No jeans, sneakers, or T-shirts for table games Slots open at 10am, tables open 8pm-4am.
PLAGE DE LA CROISETTE
Between Vieux Port and the Port Canto
BEACH
A series of private beaches where you will have to shell out €20 for a beach umbrella or beach chair. Pure heresy, in our opinion. The beaches are lined with even pricier restaurants, so you don’t need to wander far from your towel to give away even more money.
PLAGES DU MIDI
East of the Croisette.
BEACH
Beautiful sandy beach that’s free to the public. Packed in the summertime, this is where you go to meet locals and brush up on some volleyball skills, assuming you know how to say “serve” in French.
FOOD
BELLIARD
1 rue Chabaud
BAKERY
04 93 39 42 72
The 75-year-old boulangerie has maintained its humility in one of the priciest areas of Cannes. The neighborhood institution sells an array of charming and affordable assiettes (€9.50) as well as tarts, cakes, and a rum raisin ice cream that will put hair on your chest.
Assiette du Jour €9.50.Tarts and cakes €2-3.50. Open daily 7am-8pm.
AKWABAMO EXOTICK
36 rue Mimont
AFRICAN
04 93 99 89 10
This awesome Côte d’Ivoire restaurant specializes in West African cuisine of chicken and beef brochettes(€10). Pick from 6 unpronouncable sauces or endulge in the fish dish with rice (€13). Down it with homemade pineapple and coconut rum. Baskets and crafts cover the walls of this simple establishment.
Dishes €9-18. Open Tu-F 11am-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-midnight.
LE FREATE
26 rue Jean Hibert.
ITALIAN
04 93 39 45 39
In business since ’47, this Cannes staple sates its clients with grilled meats and pizza, and provides its patrons with that perfect opportunity to escape the hussle in the glitzy part of Cannes for some laidback cafe action near the beach.
Plates €7.50-15. Open Jun-Sep 6:30am-2am, Oct-May 6:30am-1pm.
LES MAREYEURS DU SUB-EST
rue Docteur Pierre
MARKET
04 96 39 39 23
Just cause you’re on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t get lobster. You’ll just have to cook it yourself, since this market specializes in live blue lobsters from the daily catch. Make sure you get a fighter, they have the most meat. €15 per kg. Open daily 8am-noon.
LA CRÊPERIE
66 rue Maynadier
CRÊPERIE
A small crêpe place in the heart of the cheap stores on rue Maynadier, its outdoor seating provides the opportunity for judging pa
sserby based on which fake brands they bought.
Crêpes €2.80-8.70. Open Tu-Su 1pm-8pm.
LAETITIA PASTA
18 av. Maréchal Joffre