Mehringdamm 61
MUSEUM
0306 959 90 50 www.schwulesmuseum.de
This little indie-feeling museum is actually state-supported, making it the world’s only state-funded exhibit on homosexual persecution. Temporary exhibits take up over half of the museum, and displays are far from extensive, but the museum does offer a history rarely presented. The permanent exhibit focuses on German homosexual history from 1800 to the present.
U6 or U7: Mehringdamm. From the station, head south on Merhringdamm. The museum will be through a courtyard on your left. English exhibit guide available. €5, students €3. Open Tu-F 2-6pm, Sa 2-7pm.
FOOD
rule of thumb
While ordering beer (or anything else), be careful which finger you use to indicate “one.” As you may have seen in Inglourious Basterds, Germans use the thumb to ask for one, while adding the pointer finger means two. Simply holding up the second finger may earn you some confused looks from the occasional bartender.
Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg’s history of wealth and opulence is still visible to the visitor in the upscale Ku’damm or in its elegant hotels. It’s not surprising that inexpensive meals are difficult to come by. In north Charlottenburg, the neighborhood called Moabit (right next to Mitte) is home to strong Middle Eastern and Asian ethnic communities. For cheap, authentic Turkish or Vietnamese food, it may be worth the trip of 20min. from the Zoo.
SCHWARZES CAFE
Kantstr. 148
BAR, RESTAURANT
030 313 80 38
Pharmacies, grocery stores, and even whole neighborhoods might close down at night, but Schwarzes Cafe will still be open. Drink absinthe after dark inside the frescoed walls of the area’s most popular boho cafe. The artistically peeling paint on the floors will increasingly bewilder as the absinthe gets to your head. Chase it down with breakfast when the sun comes up, or at a mere bohemian hour: all meals are served around the clock.
S3, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Savignypl. Weekly specials €7-13 served 11:30am-8pm. Breakfast €5-8.50. Cash only. Open M 24hr., Tu 4am-10am, W-Su 24hr.
ABBAS
Huttenstr. 71
MIDDLE EASTERN
030 34 34 77 70
Abbas and the restaurants around it belong to Arabic and Asian immigrants attracted by the area’s low rent. This sprawling sweet and nut shop sells a wide range of authentic Middle Eastern desserts on the cheap, from chocolate-covered lentils to pistachio-cashew pastries. Try its specialty baklava (€1.30 for 2 pieces). Bus M27: Turmstr./Beusseistr. Cash only. Open M-Th 10am-5pm, F and Sa noon-8pm.
Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf
Schöneberg’s relaxed cafe culture is best experienced around the intersection of Maaßenstrasse and Winterfeldstrasse. More popular cafes and inexpensive restaurants crowd the Akazienstrasse, from the U-Bahn station at Eisenacherstr., to Hauptstr.
CAFE BILDERBUCH
Akazienstr. 28
CAFE
030 78 70 60 57 www.cafe-bilderbruch.de
Even if you couldn’t eat here, Cafe Bilderbuch’s antique cabinets, fringed lamps, deep-cushioned sofas, and adjoining library would still make this a place to visit. Fortunately, their unbeatable Sunday brunch buffets (€8) have us shoving grandmothers out of the way to get in the door. The dinner specials (€5-8.50) are always affordable and never stuffy.
U7: Eisenacher Str. Free Wi-Fi. Soup from €3.70. Salads from €6. Entrees €8. Coffee €1.50. Open M-Th 9am-1am, F-Sa 9am-2am, Su 10am-1am. Kitchen closes Su-F 11pm, Sa midnight.
BAHARAT FALAFEL
Winterfeldtstr. 37
TURKISH
030 216 83 01
This isn’t your average döner stand. First, because it doesn’t serve döner. Second, because this vegetarian Turkish restaurant makes all its falafel fried to order, in fluffy pita with lots of tomatoes, lettuce, and mango or chili sauce (€3-4). Wash Baharat’s plates, with hummus, tabouleh, and salad, all down with fresh-squeezed Gute Laune Saft (good-mood juice, €1-2). Indoor seating with bright walls and flowers on the table, or an outdoor bench under a striped awning.
U1, U3, U4 or U9: Nollendorfpl. Entrees €6-8. Open M-Sa 11am-2am, Su noon-2am.
HIMALI
Crellerstr. 45
TIBETAN, NEPALESE
030 78 71 61 75 www.himali-restaurant.de
Nepali and Tibetan classics are cooked up and served piping hot from a tandoori oven. Food is never short on spices, either in quantity or variety, which are grown and ground by hand. This restaurant offers a huge range of vegetarian dishes, curried or grilled, with tofu, vegetables and naan with your choice of seasonings. The Nepali tea (€2.50) is to die for.
U7: Kleistpark. Entrees €6.50-10. Open daily noon-midinight.
Mitte
BERLINER MARCUS BRÄU
1-3 Münzstr.
GERMAN
0302 47 69 85 www.marcus-brau.de
This corner shack’s been brewing its own beer and liqueurs since before its country tried to conquer the world. The liqueurs, especially the coffee liqueur, taste as good as your mom smells, assuming she smells great. The food isn’t exactly free, and the decor isn’t exactly Ritz Carlton, but it’s authentic, hearty, and German. Try the beer (from €3 for 5L); it’s among the best in the city.
U2, U5, U8, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Alexanderpl. Entrees €7.50-9. Drinks €1-7. Open daily noon-late.
GOOD MORNING VIETNAM
Alte Schonhauser 60
VIETNAMESE
030 30 88 29 73 www.good-morning-vietnam.de
The name is great. Explanation for the name is even better: “A yesterday’s movie title, a salutation that reminds us of the past, a past full of starvation and war...” Brimming with such great food, this restaurant is hardly about starvation. Entrees (€7), are cheaper than much-hyped Monsieur Vuong’s down the street, and include crispy duck, mango chicken skewers, and tofu platters.
U2: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. Entrees €7-7.50. Open daily noon-midnight.
DOLORES BURRITOS
Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 7
MEXICAN FUSION
030 28 09 95 97
Modeled after the Mexican fusion of Baja Fresh or Chipotle, this “California Burrito” shop sells hulking tubes under €5. While we won’t go as far as calling these suckers “Californian,” the place does a good job of supplying a real spread of chipotle chicken (€1), spiced carnitas (€1.30), and vegetables (€0.80) and lets you combine them in burrito (€4), bowl (€4), or quesadilla (€3.70) form. The staff could be nicer, but with the rush of students they’re dealing with, you hardly blame them.
U2, U5, U8, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Alexanderpl. Burritos around €5; prices vary depending on your ingredients. Open M-Sa 11:30am-10pm, Su 1-10pm.
Prenzlauer Berg
W-IMBISS
Katanienallee 49
VEGETARIAN
030 48 49 26 57
Maybe it’s Indian food, or maybe it’s Mexican. We can’t really tell, but one thing we do know: this food is good. W-Imbiss specializes in fusing ethnic food types to make something interestingly novel, and damn good. Their specialty is the naan pizza—freshly baked bread in a tandoori oven spread with anything from pesto to avocado to chipotle sauce and served piled high with arugula and feta or mozzarella. W-Imbiss also sells cold wraps and quesadillas to an international crowd.
U8: Voltastr. Pizza €2-5.50. Wraps €4-5. Open May-Aug daily noon-midnight; Sept-Apr daily 12:30-11:30pm.
HANS WURST
Dunckerstr. 2A
VEGAN
030 41 71 78 22
This small cafe serves only organic, vegan foods with no flavor enhancers. Readings, DJs, and acoustic concerts spice up the evenings in this minimally decorated, laid-back venue. The menu changes daily, with seasonal and innovative offerings. Try the tofu burger on toast with original, spicy sauces.
U2: Eberswalder Str. Or M10: Husemannstr. Entrees €3.70-8. Tofu burger €4. Open M-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-late.
; DAS FILM CAFE
Schliemannstr. 15
BURGERS, THEATER
030 810 11 90 50 www.dasfilmcafe.de
Das Film Cafe serves up homemade burgers to fans hungry for a good meal and even better movies. This cafe has two screenings a night in a small, high-resolution theater downstairs, usually around 8pm and 10pm, and prides itself on selecting films with an international, independent flair. Films are never dubbed over and are usually shown in English.
U2: Eberswalder Str. Tickets €4.50, students €4. Burgers €7. Hummus plates €5.50. Cappuccino €2. Open M-F2:30pm-late, Sa-Su 11:30am-late.
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is famous for its inexpensive, student-centered living, and its restaurants, bars and cafes don’t disappoint. In the area bounded by Frankfurter-Allee to the north, Jennerstr. to the east, Simon-Dach-Str. to the west, and Wühlschischerstr. to the south, streets overflow with bistro tables, outdoor umbrellas, and cheap food.
FRITTIERSALON
Boxhagener Str. 104
GERMAN
030 25 93 39 06
Yes, we know, ever since you set foot in Berlin, you’ve been drowning in bratwurst, currywurst, and fried potatoes. But for anyone in Friedrichshain, this all-organic “frying salon” is unique enough to merit a visit. In addition to a traditional prize-winning Berliner currywurst, this restaurant serves a number of German classics with a twist: try the wheat-based vegetarian currywurst or bratwurst or a hamburger or veggie burger with strawberries and avocado. All sauces and french fries are homemade, and all dishes are cooked to order.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. Bratwurst and currywurst €2.20. Burgers €6. Open M 6pm-late, Tu-F noon-late, Sa-Su 1pm-late.
CARAMELLO EIS
Wühlischerstr. 31
ICE CREAM
030 50 34 31 05 www.caramello-eis.de
Caramello Eis scoops some of the best ice cream in town all night long to a following of devoted students. All of Caramello’s ice cream is handmade, organic, and vegan. Don’t leave Friedrichshain without trying the dark chocolate eis with chili powder; the staff says it’s the best chocolate ice cream in all of Berlin, and we’re not about to argue.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. Cones €1. Open daily 11am-late.
Kreuzberg
Good food lives and dies all over Kreuzberg, but the best food is stacked up in the area near Oranienestrasse.
CAFE MORGANLAND
Skalitzer Str. 35
CAFE
03061 132 91 www.cafemorgenland.eu
Its Parisian breakfast—a fresh butter croissant, a large dish of perfect vanilla custard with fresh fruit, and the best milk coffee you’ve ever had—breaks the laws of economics. The all-you-can-eat brunch buffet (€9.50) on the weekends will literally make your jaw drop: eight types of meat, five types of bread, 15 spreads, sausages, eggs, curries, potatoes, fish, vegetables, fruits—it’s paradise. Solid international fare fills out the rest of the menu.
U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof. Entrees €5-15. Open daily 10am-1am.
RESTAURANT RISSANI
Spreewaldpl. 4
MIDDLE EASTERN
3061 62 94 33
A lot of döner kebab places around town call themselves authentic. Well, Rissani doesn’t serve döners—they call them chicken shawarma sandwiches—but they’re twice as delicious and half as expensive (€2). Dinner plates, with shawarma, falafel, tabbouleh, hummus, and salad will make you forget your bad day.
U1: Görlitzer Bahnhof. From the station, head east down Skalitzer str. and take a right at Spreewaldpl. Entrees €2-5. Open M-Th 11am-3am, F-Sa 11am-5am, Su 11am-3am.
MUSTAFAS
Mehringdamm 32
MIDDLE EASTERN
www.mustafas.de
Some say that this place serves up the best döner kebabs in the city—that’s debatable, but what’s not is that Mustafas has the best durum (shawarma burrito with sauce; €4) in the city. It tastes like the best thing in the world stuffed with the second-best thing in the world. Vegetarians who usually scrounge through various falafel options will rejoice over the delicious grilled vegetables in the veggie durum (€3.10). If you want to check it out yourself, their website has a live webcam.
U6 or U7: Mehringdamm. Entrees €2.50-5. Open 24hr.
HENNE ALT-BERLINER WIRTSHAUS GASTSTÄTTEN
Leuschnerdamm 25
GERMAN
3061 477 30 www.henne-berlin.de
Henne provides the most German experience imaginable. An antler-lined parlor crammed with plaid tablecloths, sturdy German damsels hauling mugs of beer, and a menu that consists of a single dinner: a piece of bread, creamy potato salad, and enormous, perfectly crispy, internationally renowned chicken that will forever redefine “fried food.” The chicken skin whispers as you crunch it, “I’m better than the girls you’ll miss out on by eating me and gaining weight.” She only speaks the truth.
U1 or U8: Kottbusser Tor. From the station, head northwest on Oranienstr. Take a right at Oranienpl. Reservations needed for outdoor seating. Entrees from €8. Open Tu-Sa 7pm-late, Su 5pm-late.
NIGHTLIFE
Charlottenburg
Charlottenburg’s quiet cafes and music venues cater to the 30-something set. Great for a mellow evening, or a chance to hear the city’s best jazz, but the real parties are eastward. The Ku’damm is best avoided after sunset, unless you enjoy fraternizing with drunk businessmen.
A TRANE
Bleibtreustr. 1
BAR AND CLUB
030 313 25 50 www.a-trane.de
Small in size, big on talent. Hanging black and white photographs of jazz greats, some who even performed at A Trane (like legends Herbie Hancock and Wynton Marsalis), look down on crowded tables filled with jazz enthusiasts. First-class musicians still entertain guests on a quiet street corner.
S3, S5, S7, S9, or S75: Savignypl. Cover €7-15, students €5-13. Sa from 12:30am no cover. Open M-Th and Su 9pm-2am, F-Sa 9pm-late.
CASCADE
Fasanenstr. 81
CLUB
030 31 80 09 40 www.cascade-club.de
The walk down to the large basement club is bookended by steps flooded by flowing water, hence the name Cascade. With a high cover, this club might be a bit of a splurge, but in return travelers get a dance floor of underlit blocks (à la John Travolta), a wall-to-wall bar, and a young crowd--there might even actually be dancing! There are ways to get around the high admission price; stop by on a Friday and pick up a voucher for free entry, good the next evening, or next weekend.
U1: Uhlandstr. Cover €10. Beer €3.50, shots €4. Open F-Sa 11am-late.
Schöneberg and Wilmersdorf
Schöneberg is still Berlin’s unofficial gay district, full of GLBT nightlife. We’ve picked some of our favorites, but the neighborhood is full of outrageously popular bars and clubs that serve a vibrant gay community. From what we can tell, there aren’t happier partiers in all of Berlin.
HAFEN
Motzstr. 19
GAY BAR
030 211 41 18 www.hafen-berlin.de
Nearly 20 years old, this bar has become a landmark for Berlin’s gay community. The sign outside may only specifically invite “drop dead gorgeous looking tourists,” but you’ll find plenty of locals all along the spectrum of attractiveness. The mostly male crowd spills out onto the streets during the summer. The weekly pub quiz, Monday at 8pm, is wildly popular (first Monday of the month in English), and every Wednesday features a new DJ. On April 30th, Hafen hosts their largest party of the year, in honor of the Queen of the Netherlands. They promise us that the “Queen” makes an appearance.
U1, U3, U4 or U9: Nollendorfpl. No cover. Open daily 8am-4am.
PRINZKNECHT
Fuggerstr. 33
GAY BAR
030 23 62 74 44 www.prinzknecht.de
Prinzknecht serves a mostly male clientele from a huge central wooden bar. Even with so many bar stools and couches, the bar fills up way past capacity on event nights, and people begin to resemble waves on t
he street. Check the website for upcoming events, including an incredibly popular ABBA night.
U1 or U2: Wittenbergpl.” No cover. Open M-F 2pm-3am, Sa and Su 3pm-3am.
BEGINE
Potsdamer Str. 139
LESBIAN BAR
030 215 14 14 www.begine.de
In a neighborhood dominated by male gay clubs, Begine is a welcome retreat for women. Named after a now-defunct Lesbian WC, Berlin’s biggest lesbian community center has a popular, low-key cafe/bar with comfortable sofas, live music, and readings at night.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 84