U2: Bülowstr. No cover. Open M-F 5pm-late, Sa 3pm-late, Su 7pm-late.
Mitte
BANG BANG CLUB
Neue Promenade 10
CLUB
030 604 053 10 www.bangbangclub.net
Hiding beneath the S-Bahn tracks in groovy, smoky caverns of arched brick, the Bang Bang club plays it cool without being snooty. Weave through the tight hallways and dance the night away with Berliners.
S5, S7, S9, S75: Hackescher Markt. U. Admission free-€20. Usually open F-Sa 10pm-late. Check website for details.
COOKIES
Friedrichstr. 158
CLUB
030 274 929 40 www.cookies-berlin.de
Hot, sweaty, sexy, and packed, Cookies jams in a former Stasi bunker that operates as a restaurant during the day. Locals claim that this party originally started in some guy’s basement before moving to hip venues. The party don’t start till 1am, so save your tears if you show up alone at midnight. Entrance can be a little exclusive—don’t dress up, dress down—so it helps if you know the name of the DJ playing that night.
U6: Französische Str. From the U-Bahn, head north. Admission €5-15. Club open Tu 10:30pm-6am, Th 10:30pm-6am.
Prenzlauer Berg
Far less techno and far more laid-back than other parts of Berlin, Prenzlauer Berg’s trendy cafes and late-night restaurants each have a devoted local following. Opt for bars over clubs in this part of town.
THE WEINEREI: FORUM
Veteranenstr. 14
BAR
030 440 6983
This unmarked wine bar has gone from a local secret to a local legend, catapulted by its comfortable elegance and unique paying system. Pay €2 for a glass, sample all the wines, and then sample again, and again, and before leaving, pay what you think you owe. Enjoy your vintage at an outdoor table, on an indoor sofa, or in the downstairs wine cellar (by request).
U2: Senefelderpl. Depends on how drunk you get. Open M-Sa 10am-late, Su 11am-late.
SOLSI E MORSI
Marienburger Str. 10
BAR
It’s not often that an owner becomes as loved as his bar, but Johnny Petrongolo is that rare exception. Buzzing about tables, opening wine bottles, and handing out plates of free parma ham, cheese, bread and olives, Johnny and his familial staff have won over the hearts of their young regulars, and ours as well. If you’re not sure where to start, let the Petrongolos help you pick your wine.
U2: Senefelderpl. Wine from €3 a glass. Open daily 6pm-late.
KLUB DER REPUBLIC (KDR)
Pappelallee 81
CLUB
There are few museums that have as many authentic Soviet artifacts as KDR has hanging on its walls. Once the showroom of the DDR carpet and linoleum supplier, KDR kept the old formica bar and leaded glass, and added lamps from the original Palast Republik, collected as the building was being torn down. The furniture is from the DDR landmark Cafe Moscow. DJs play every night to a mixed crowd attracted by the club’s no cover policy.
U2: Eberswalder Str. Turn into what looks like a deserted parking lot and climb the metal stairs. Drinks €5, beer €4. Open from “dark to light.” In more definite terms, that’s around 9pm in the summer, in the winter 8pm-late.
INTERSOUP
Schliemannstr. 31
BAR
030 23 27 30 45 www.intersoup.de
With worn ’70s furniture, retro floral wallpaper, and soup specials, this is your East-Berlin Soviet-era grandmother’s living room turned ironic. Named after the DDR-era general store Intershop, Intersoup has been keeping things quintessentially Prenzlauer Berg-esque and getting quite the local following doing it. The upper level always has a DJ, but the real highlight is the downstairs undersoup, where international bands perform every night at 10pm, in genres from folk to rock, to an audience seated in comfortable mix-matched chairs covered in lurid orange and olive patterns. There’s almost never a cover.
U2: Eberswalder Str. Soup €4.50-5. Open M-Sa 6pm-3am, Su.
Friedrichshain
When people think of Berlin techno clubs, they’re picturing Friedrichshain. You won’t find more legendary converted factory or warehouse clubs in any other neighborhood in Germany, and maybe even all of Europe. Most of these raging dance venues are spread out along the river and railroad tracks, between the car dealerships and empty lots on Mühlenstrasse. More low-key, but equally popular bars are clustered around Simon-Dach-Strasse. In fact, even as we’ve recommended our favorite laid-back and hoppin’ bars below, you really can’t go wrong with any place along Simon-Dach.
ASTRO-BAR
Simon-Dach-Str. 40
BAR
www.astro-bar.de
This popular bar gets back to the basics with cheap prices and generously poured alcohol. A DJ plays vinyl records every night starting at 10pm, featuring classics like the Stones and the Beatles, along with some newer indie tracks. Run by a bunch of guys who like their music, love their whiskey (€4), and decorate the back of their bar with Transformers nailed to the wall.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. Beer from €2.50. Mixed drinks from €5. Open 6pm-late.
ABGEDREHT
Karl-Marx-Allee 150
BAR
030 29 38 19 11 www.abgedreht.net
This no-frills bar is located right next to Frankfurter Tor, so you can soak up Soviet ambiance while you practically sit on the laps of locals. Sheet music papers the walls, and leather couches are clumped around antique sewing tables. This bar caters to the 30+ crowd, and is a little removed from most of the action on Simon-Dach, but if you’re looking to drink a beer with a view of the DDR main street, this is the place to go.
U5: Frankfurter Tor. 0.5L beer €3-4. Open daily 5pm-late. Happy hour 7-9pm, cocktails from €5.
Kreuzberg
CLUB DER VISIONAERE
Am Flutgraben 1
CLUB
030 695 189 44 www.clubdervisionaere.com
Though this river-front cabana/bar/club/boat is packed, the experience is worth the sweaty armpits. A mini-indoor club has a DJ spinning, but the fun is outside with rum-based drinks, feet dipped in the river, and large pizzas (€8). This club is like a mix of the Bayou, New York, and Cancun. One of the best experiences you will have anywhere. So relaxing, so engaging, so Berlin.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. From the U-Bahn head southeast on Schleissichestr. Admission €4-15. Open daily 10pm-late.
WATERGATE
Falckensteinstr. 49
CLUB
030 61 28 03 96 www.water-gate.de
This ultra-exclusive club lights up the river with an eye-popping display of lights, but from the street, not even a sign marks its entrance. You’ll have to rely on the enormous line of partiers who’ve come for a club that lives up to its reputation. Tired guests can “chill out” on the floating dock, while raging rhinos can tear up one of two dance floors. The place won’t get packed until 2am—but then it roars until the sun shushes it down. Groups of more than two should pretend like they’re separate, and couples should pretend like they’re single—seriously.
U1: Schlesisches Tor. Head toward the bridge. It’s the unmarked door at the top of those stairs immediately before the river. Cover €8-20. Mixed drinks €6.50. Open W 11-late. F and Sa midnight-late.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Music and Opera
BERLINER PHILHARMONIKER
Herbert-von-Karajan-Str. 1
MITTE
030 25 48 89 99 www.berlin-philharmonic.com
It may look strange from the outside, but acoustically, this yellow building is pitch-perfect; all audience members hear the music exactly as it’s intended to reach their ears. The Berliner Philharmoniker, led by the eminent Sir Simon Rattle, is one of the world’s finest orchestras. It’s tough to get a seat; check 1hr. before concert time or e-mail at least 8 weeks in advance.
S1, S2, or S25 or U2: Potsdamer Pl. Tickets from €7 for standing room, from €13 for seats. Open July-early Sept. Box office open M-F 3-6pm, Sa-Su 1
1am-2pm.
DEUTSCHE STAATSOPER
Unter den Linden 7
MITTE
030 203 545 55 www.staatsoper-berlin.de
The Deutsche Staatsoper is East Berlin’s leading opera theater. Though it suffered during the years of separation, this opera house is rebuilding its reputation and its repertoire of classical Baroque opera and contemporary pieces.
U6: Französische Str. Or bus #100, 157, or 348: Deutsche Staatsoper. Tickets €50-160; students €12, if purchased 30min. before shows and ½-price on cheaper seats for certain performances. Open Aug to mid-July. Box office open daily noon-7pm, and 1hr. before performances.
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
Bismarckstr. 35
MITTE
030 34 38 43 43 www.deutscheoperberlin.de
The Deutsche Oper is Berlin’s newest opera house. If you have the chance, don’t pass on a cheap ticket to go see one of Berlin’s best performances.
U2: Deutsche Oper. Tickets €12-118. 25% student discounts. Open Sept-June. Box office open M-Sa 11am until beginning of the performance, or 11am-7pm on days without performances; Su 10am-2pm. Evening tickets available 1hr. before performances.
Film
Finding English films in Berlin is anything but difficult. On any night, choose from over 150 different films, marked O.F. or O.V. for the original version (meaning not dubbed in German), O.m.U for original version with German subtitles, or O.m.u.E. for original film with English subtitles.
KINO BABYLON
Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 30
MITTE
030 242 59 69 www.babylonberlin.de
A spunky little independent film house with a commitment to quality films, Kino Americans and Berliners alike who flock here for pure film culture. Occasional summer screenings happen outdoors on the beautiful Rosa-Luxemburg-and an epic screening of Rocky Horror Picture Show goes down regularly here.
U2: Rosa-Luxemburg-Pl. Tickets €4-8. Schedules change daily. Check website for details.
ARSENAL
In the Filmhaus at Potsdamer Pl.
KREUZBERG
030 26 95 51 00 www.fdk-berlin.de
Run by the founders of Berlinale, Arsenal showcases indie films and some classics (€6.50). Frequent appearances by guest directors make the theater a popular meeting place for Berlin’s filmmakers.
U2, S1, S2, or S25: Potsdamer Pl.
Theater
ENGLISH THEATER BERLIN
Fidicinstr. 40
KREUZBERG
030 693 56 92 www.etberlin.de
For over 20 years Berlin’s only all English-language theater has been defying German-language totalitarianism with everything from 10-minute short festivals to full length productions. Leave your umlauts at home.
U6: Pl. der Luftbrücke. €14, students €8. Box office opens 1hr. before show time. Shows are at 8pm unless otherwise noted.
DEUTSCHES THEATER
Schumann Straße 13a
MITTE
030 28 44 10 www.deutschestheater.de
Built in 1850, this world-famous theater that legendary director Max Reinhardt once controlled is still a cultural heavy hitter in Berlin. Performances tend to be in German, and they tend to change frequently, so check the website for details.
U6: Oranienburger Tor. From the U-Bahn, head south on Friederichstraße, take a right on Reinhartße and another right on Albrecthstr. €5-30. Box office open M-Sa 11am-6:30pm, Su 3-6:30pm. Shows are at 8pm unless otherwise noted.
SHOPPING
Flea Markets
ARKONAPLATZ
Arkonapl.
PRENZLAUER BERG
786 9764
Craftsmen sell jewelry. Farmers juice oranges. That guy down the street hawks his CDs from a towel. Arkonaplatz brings out the weird, the old, the desperate, and everyone who wants their stuff. The market’s enormous size makes the junk spread incredible: DDR relics, massive rolls of fabric, pictures of vendors’ babies, antique space hats? Stick around in the afternoons when the unnamed Irish man comes by with a karaoke machine on his bike. He’s been doing it for years now.
U8: Bernaurstr. Open Su 9am-6pm.
TURKISH MARKET
Along the south bank of the Landwehrkanal
KREUZBERG
Fruit vendors shout to passersby about their fruit, bakers shout about their baking, clothing dealers shout about their clothing. The Turkish Market is not just an amazing place to find great deals on fruit and clothing, it’s one of the best experiences of the entire city. The fruit stands have fruits you’ve never seen, and they only cost €1. The clothing stands have deals like three pairs of socks for the price of one. On top of this, musicians play at the ends of the market. Not exactly a “flea” market, but an incredible market, and one you won’t forget.
U1: Kottbusser Tor. From the U-Bahn, head south toward the canal. Open Tu and F noon-6pm.
MAUERPARK FLEA MARKET
On Eberswalderstr.
PRENZLAUER BERG
The Mauerpark Flea Market is the biggest and best-known in all of Berlin. A labyrinth of booths and stalls sells everything from hand-ground spices to used clothing to enamel jewelry to potted plants. Hoards of bargain hunters, hipsters, and gawking tourists crowd the park, drinking fresh-squeezed orange juice and listening to the street musicians who swarm the market. Like all secondhand stores in Prenzlauer Berg, Mauerpark is rarely dirt-cheap. You can still find good values, but expect slightly higher prices.
U2: Eberswalderstr.
Books
ST. GEORGE’S BOOKSTORE
Wörtherstr. 27
PRENZLAUER BERG
0308 179 83 33
You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better English-language bookstore on the continent. St. George’s owner makes frequent trips to the UK and US to buy up loads of titles so that his customers can find any book they’re looking for, and then some. Over half of the books are used and extremely well-priced (paperbacks €4-6), with a number of books for just €1. This shop also carries new books and can order absolutely any title they don’t already carry. If you’re looking for travel reading material, there’s absolutely no better place to go in Berlin. Pay in euros, British pounds, or American dollars (oh my!).
U2: Senefelderpl. Open M-F 11am-7pm, Sa 10am-4pm.
Music
SPACE HALL
Zossenerstr. 33, 35
KREUZBERG
306947664 www.spacehall.de
They don’t make them like this in the States no more. The CD store is two doors down from the vinyl store. The vinyl store just keeps going, with a “bunker” vibe and a courtyard where DJs sometimes spin and sample turntables. They also have an inspiring collection of rubber duckies.
U7: Gneisenaustr. Open M-W 11am-8pm, Th-F 11am-10pm, Sa 11-8pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Now privately owned, tourist offices provide far fewer free ser vices than they once did www.berlin.de has quality information on all aspects of the city. EurAide sells rail tickets, maps, phone cards, and walking-tour tickets. (1781 828 2488 In the Hauptbahnhof, across from the McDonald’s.) Tourist Info Centers. (Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785. Office located on the ground floor of the Hauptbahnhof. The entrance is on Europl. 030 25 00 25 www.berlin-tourist-information.de Service in English. Siegessäule, Sergej, and Gay-Yellowpages have gay and lesbian event and club listings. Reserve rooms for a €3-6 fee. Transit maps free ; city maps €1. The monthly Berlin Programm lists museums, sights, restaurants, and hotels, as well as opera, theater, and classical music performances, €1.75. Full listings of film, theater, concerts, and clubs in German Tip, €2. 70, or Zitty, €2.70. English-language movie and theater reviews are in Ex-Berliner €2. Open daily 8am-10pm.). Alternate location. (Brandenburger Tor S1, S2, or S25 or bus #100: Unter dne Linden. On your left as you face the pillars from the Unter den Linden side. Open daily 10am-6pm.)
• STUDENT TRAVEL OFFICES: STA books flights and hotels and sells ISICs. (Dorot
heenstr. 30 030 20 16 50 63 S3, S5, S7, S9, S75, or U6 to Friedrichstr. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-3pm.) Second location. (Sleimstr. 28 S4, S8, S85, or U2: Schönhauser Allee. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-4pm.) Third location. (Hardenbergerstr. 9 U2: Ernst-Reuter-Pl. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-3pm.) Fourth location. (Takustr. 47 Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-2pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE AND MONEY WIRES: The best rates are usually found at exchange offices with Wechselstrube signs outside, at most major trainstations, and in large squares. For money wires through Western Union, use ReiseBank. (Hauptbahnhof 030 20 45 37 61 M-Sa 8am-10pm) Second location. (Bahnhof Zoo 030 881 7117) Third location. (Ostbahnhof 030 296 4393.)
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 85