• LUGGAGE STORAGE: (In the Hauptbahnhof, in”DB Gepack Center,” 1st fl., East side. €4 per day.) Lockers also in Bahnhof Zoo, Ostbahnhof, and Alexanderpl.
• INTERNET ACCESS: Free Internet with admission to the Staatsbibliothek. During their renovation, Staatsbibliothek requires a €10 week-long pass to their library. (Potsdamer Str. 33 030 26 60 Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-7pm.) Netlounge (Auguststr. 89 030 24 34 25 97 www.netlounge-berlin.de U-Bahn: Oranienburger Str. €2.50 per hr. Open daily noon-midnight.) Easy Internet has several locations throughout Berlin (Unter den Linden 24, Rosenstraße 16, Frankfurter Allee 32, Rykestraße 29, and Kurfürstendamm 18). Many cafes throughout Berlin offer free Wi-Fi.
• POST OFFICES: Main branch (Joachimstaler Str. 7 030 88 70 86 11 Down Joachimstaler Str. from Bahnhof Zoo and near Kantstr. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.) Tegel Airport ( Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Ostbahnhof ( Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 10706.
Emergency!
• POLICE: (Pl. der Luftbrücke 6. U6: Pl. der Luftbrüche.)
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: 110. Ambulance and Fire 112. Non-emergency advice hotline: 030 46 64 46 64.
• MEDICAL SERVICES: The American and British embassies list English-speaking doctors. The emergency doctor (030 31 00 31 or 01804 2255 2362) service helps travelers find English-speaking doctors. Emergency dentist. (030 89 00 43 33)
• CRISIS LINES: English spoken at most crisis lines. American Hotline has crisis and referral services. (0177 814 15 10) Poison Control. (030 192 40) Berliner Behindertenverband has advice for the handicapped. (Jägerstr. 63d 030 204 38 48 www.bbv-ev.de Open W noon-5pm and by appointment.) Deutsche AIDS-Hilfe. (Wilhelmstr. 138 030 690 0870 www.aidshilfe.de) Drug Crisis. (030 192 37 24hr.) Women’s Resources. Frauendrisentelefon Women’s crisis line. (030 615 4243 www.frauenkrisentelefon.de Open M and Th 10am-noon, Tu-W, F 7pm-9pm, Sa-Su 5pm-7pm) Lesbenberatung offers lesbian counseling. (Kulmer Str. 20 030 215 2000 www.lesbenberatung-berlin.de) Schwulenberatung offers gay men’s counseling. (Mommenstr. 45 030 194 46 www.schwulenberatungberlin.de) Maneo. Legal help for gay violence victims. (030 216 3336 www.maneo.de Open daily 5pm-7pm) LARA. Sexual assault help. (Fuggerstr. 19 030 216 88 88 www.lara-berlin.de Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Children’s emergency helpline. (030 610 061)
Getting There
By Plane
Capital Airport Berlin Brandenburg International (BBI) will open in the southeast Berlin in 2012. Until then, Tegel Airport will continue to serve travelers.(Take express bus #X9 or #109 from Jakob-Kaiser Pl. on U7, bus #128 from Kurt-Schumacher-Pl. on U6, or bus TXL from Beusselstr on S42 and S41. Follow signs in the airport for ground transportation. 49 30 6091 2055 www.berlin-airport.de)
By Train
International trains (972 226 150) pass through Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof and run to: Amsterdam, NTH ( €130. 6½hr., 16 per day.) ;Brussels, BEL ( €165 7hr., 14 per day.); Budapest, HUN ( €165 13hr., 4 per day.); Copenhagen, DNK ( €155 7hr., 7 per day.); Paris, FRA ( €200 9hr., 9 per day.); Prague, CZR; ( €80 5hr., 12 per day.) Vienna, AUT. ( €155 10hr., 12 per day.)
By Bus
ZOB is the central bus station. (Masurenallee 4. U2: Kaiserdamm. Alternatively, S4, S45, or S46: Messe Nord/ICC. 030 301 30 80 Open M-F 6am-9pm, Sa-Su and holidays 6am-8pm.)
Getting Around
By Bike
The best way to see Berlin is by bike. Unless your hostel’s out in the boonies, few trips will be out of cycling reach, and given that U-Bahn tickets verge on €3 and that the average long-term bike rental costs €8 per day, pedaling your way is just a better deal.
FAT TIRE BIKE RENTAL
Alexanderpl.
MITTE
030 24 04 79 91 www.berlinfahrradverleih.com
Rents bikes for half- and full-days.
East location U2: Alexanderpl. Directly under the TV Tower. West location U2 or U9: Zoological Garten. €7 per ½-day (up to 4hr.), €12 per day. Open May-Oct 15 daily 9:30am-8pm; Oct 16-Nov and Mar-Apr daily 9:30am-6pm.
The BVG
The heart of Berlin’s public transportation system is the U-Bahn and S-Bahn Metro trains, which cover the city in a spidery and circular patterns, respectively. Trams (Straßenbahn) and buses (both part of the U-Bahn system) scuttle around the remaining city corners. (BVG’s 24hr. hotline 030 194 49 www.bvg.de) Berlin is divided into three transit zones. Zone A has central Berlin, including Tempelhof Airport. The rest of Berlin is in Zone B; Zone C consists of outlying areas, including Potsdam and Oranienburg. An AB ticket is the best deal, since you can later buy extension tickets for the outlying areas. A one-way ticket is good for 2hr. after validation. ( Zones AB €2.10, BC €2.50, ABC €2.80, under 14 reduced fare, under 6 free.) Within the validation period, the ticket may be used on any S-Bahn, U-Bahn, bus, or tram.
Most train lines don’t run Monday through Friday 1-4am. S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines do run Friday and Saturday nights, but less frequently. When trains stop, 70 night buses take over, running every 20-30min. and tending to follow major transit lines; pick up the free Nachtliniennetz map of bus routes at a Fahrscheine und Mehr office. The letter “N” precedes night bus numbers. Trams also continue to run at night.
Buy tickets, including monthly passes, from machines or ticket windows in Metro stations or from bus drivers. Be warned: machines don’t give more than €10 change, and many machines don’t take bills, though some accept credit cards. Validate your ticket by inserting it into the stamp machines before boarding. Failure to validate becomes a big deal when plainclothes policemen bust you and charge you €40 for freeloading. If you bring a bike on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn, you must buy it a child’s ticket. Bikes are forbidden on buses and trams.
Single-ride tickets are a waste of money. A Day Ticket ( AB €6.10, ABC €6.50) is good from the time it’s stamped until 3am the next day. The BVG also sells 7-day tickets ( AB €26.20, ABC €32.30) and month-long tickets ( AB €72, ABC €88.50). Another option are the popular tourist cards: the WelcomeCard (sold at tourist offices) buys unlimited travel. ( AB 48hr. €17, ABC €19; 72hr. €23/26) and includes discounts on 130 city sights. The CityTourCard is good within zones AB ( 48hr. €16, 72hr. €22) and offers discounts at over 50 attractions.
By Taxi
Taxis: Call 15min. in advance. Women can request female drivers. Trips within the city cost up to €30. (030 26 10 26, 0800 263 0000 toll-free)
köln cologne
0221
The Roman city of Colonia made headlines many times in history before becoming a staple of Germany travel guides. Housing valuable relics of the Three Kings, Köln first made its name as a hubbub of pilgrimage activity. Later, its port along the Rhein made it a commercial entrepeneur’s dream city. In the 18th century, Farina’s invention of the fragrant Eau de Cologne made Köln’s citizens, and then the rest of the world, smell nice. Finally, in 1880, the City’s Dom was completed.
Today, pilgrims take the form of chatty tourists who leave with suitcases full of perfume and dozens of photos of the Dom (in their defense, it’s pretty incredible). Yet the city still clings to its roots, and the many archaeological excavation sites around the Altstadt attest to Köln’s obsession with historical preservation. True to form, many Kölners also converse with each other in the city’s own dialect, called Kölsch—which, coincidentally, is also the name of the city’s own beer, made exclusively in breweries whose windows have a clear view of the Dom. With all that Kölsch and a robust nightlife scene fueled by students from Germany’s largest university, you’re bound to have a good time.
Köln (Cologne)
ORIENTATION
The Rhein River runs north-south through the middle of the city, though most of the river runs to the west. There, a long semi-circular street comprised of Hansaring, Hohenzollernring, Hohenstaufenring, Sachsenring, and Ubierring, divides the city’s Altstadt inside the ring along the river and the Neustadt outside. On the other side of the river is Deutz, home to Köln’s trade fairs.
Altstadt-Nord
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nbsp; The beloved Dom takes center stage the heart of the Altstadt-Nord, next door to the Hauptbahnhof. Bounded by the Deutzer Brücke to the south, this part of town is one-third historical sights, one-third shopping malls, and one-third overpriced German brewhouses.
Altstadt-Sud
Admittedly, there’s not much in this part of town—yet. While the Schockoladen Museum remains this quarter’s greatest asset, recent construction along the banks of the Rhein have transformed the formerly defunct Rheinhaufen harbor into a posh new residential area. The three inverted L-shaped apartment buildings, called the Kranhaus (Crane House), have brought the city some modern architectural street cred.
Neustadt
The western end of this part of town is the university. You’ll find plenty of cheap eats and student-friendly nightlife in the area around Zülpicher Platz. Along the north-western end, the Belgisches Viertel neighborhood is populated by chic boutiques and designer furniture stores, along with a few of the city’s more upscale bars.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Köln’s hotels raise rates from March to October, when trade winds blow conventioners into town. The hotel haven is Brandenburger Strasse, on the less busy side of the Hauptbahnhof. Looking for last-minute deals during Karneval is foolish—book up to a year ahead and expect to pay a premium.
Altstadt-Nord
STATION HOSTEL FOR BACKPACKERS
Marzellenstr. 44-56
HOSTEL
0221 912 53 01 www.hostel-cologne.de
The most conveniently located hostel in Köln also boasts the best atmosphere, with chalkboards telling you about all the goings-ons around the city and knowledgeable staff quick to help you with whatever you need. The dorms are often not bunked, meaning you don’t have to fumble around ladders in the middle of the night.
From the Hauptbahnhof, take the Dompropst-Ketzer-Str. exit with the Dom to the left and the Rolex building to the right, and turn right behind the Rolex building onto Marzellenstr. Linens and Wi-Fi included. 6-bed dorms €17; singles €32-39; doubles €44-55; triples €66-75; quads €80-88; quints €90. Reception 24hr. Check-in 3pm. Check-out noon.
Altstadt-Sud
HOSTEL KÖLN
Marsilstein 29
HOTEL
0221 998 77 60 www.hostel.ag
Sleek rooms, friendly reception, and a great location by Neumarkt make this hostel (though more like a hotel) a great deal for travelers. Although it’s called a hostel because of the multiple-bed rooms, the place actually functions like a hotel: if you book a dorm you have to book the entire room. So come with friends, and enjoy your free breakfast on the rooftop balcony with some great views.
U1, U3, U4, U7, U9, U16, or U18: Neumarkt, then head west and turn left onto Im Lach and right onto Marsilstein to hostel on right. Breakfast, linens, and towels included. Free Wi-Fi and computers for guest use. 3- to 8-bed dorms from €24; singles from €45; doubles from €60. Reception 24hr. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 11am.
Neustadt
MEININGER CITY HOSTEL
Engelbertstr. 33-35
HOSTEL
0221 355 33 20 14 www.meininger-hostels.com
This trendy hostel boasts a game room, lounge, cinema, and bar, along with a breakfast room decorated with chandeliers and velvet wallpaper. Rooms are quiet and clean, if not small, and all come with private bathrooms.
U1, U7, U12, or U15: Rudolfpl., then exit station, turn left (south) onto Habsburgstr., right on Lindenstr., and left on Engelbertstr. Breakfast €4.50. Linens included. Towels available with deposit. Free Wi-Fi in lobby; €5 per day in room. 8-bed dorms from €19; 3- to 6-bed dorms from €25; women-only 6-bed dorms €22; singles from €49; doubles from €68. Reception 24hr. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 10am.
SIGHTS
Altstadt-Nord
DOM
Domkloster 3
CATHEDRAL
www.koelner-dom.de
This towering structure, which took over 600 years to build, has defined Köln with its colossal spires since its completion in 1880. A canopied ceiling towering 44m above the floor, and 1350 sq. m of exquisite stained glass casting a harlequin display of colored light, the cathedral is the perfect realization of High Gothic style. Despite the endless construction that guarantees constant scaffolding along the ornate exterior, thousands of visitors flock to this landmark daily.
Begin your tour at the plaza out front where a conglomeration of street performers and camera-touting tourists interact. Directly opposite the front door, a scale replica of the cathedral’s crowning pinnacles lets you marvel at their size. Enter the church and head to the choir, keeping to the right-hand side. The stained-glass window in the South Transept might look a little different than the others; called the “pixel window” by some, this piece of modern art was created in 2007 to replace the original destroyed in World War II, using a computer program to position squares of 72 different colors for a mystical effect. As you walk further toward the back of the cathedral, a small chapel houses a 15th-century triptych painted by Stephen Lochner to represent the city’s five patron saints: St. Ursula and her bevy of female attendants (a whopping 10,000 virgins, according to legend) dominate the left wing; St. Gereon is on the right; in the center, the Three Kings pay tribute to a newborn Christ. Continue along the back of the church to take a peek at the Shrine of the Three Kings inside the iron gates. On the left side of the choir is the Chapel of the Cross, which holds the 10th-century Gero Crucifix, the oldest intact sculpture of Christus patiens (a crucified and deceased Christ with eyes shut). Nearby, a doorway leads outside and a right turn will get you into the cavernous Schatzkammer (treasury), which holds clerical relics: thorn, cross, and nail bits, as well as liturgical vestments and pieces of 18 saints.
To ascend the tower, go back outside and turn left to head down the stairs. 15min. and 509 steps (100m) are all it takes to scale the Südturmb (south tower) and catch an impresive view of the city and river below, as well as a birdseye view of the inside of the cathedral itself. Catch your breath at the Glockenstube (about ¾ of the way up), a chamber for the tower’s nine bells. Four of the bells date from the Middle Ages, but the 19th-century upstart known affectionately as Der Große Peter (at 24 tons, the world’s heaviest swinging bell) is loudest.
By the Hauptbahnhof. The Dom Forum (located across the street, 0221 92584720 www.domforum.de) organizes guided tours in English M-Sa 10:30am and 2:30pm, Su 2:30pm, €6, students €4. A 20min. film shown inside the Dom Forum building also gives an introduction to the cathedral, in German M-Sa noon, 1:30pm, 3pm, 4:30pm, Su 3pm and 4:30pm; in English M-Sa 11:30am and 3:30pm, Su 3:30pm; €2, students €1. Entry free. Schatzkammer €4, students €2; tower €2.50/1; combined €5/2.50. Church open daily May-Oct 6am-9pm, Nov-Apr 6am-7:30pm. Schatzkammer open daily 10am-6pm. Tower open daily May-Sept 9am-6pm, Oct and Mar-Apr 9am-5pm, Nov-Feb 9am-4pm.
MUSEUM LUDWIG
Heinrich-Böll-Pl.
MUSEUM
0221 22 12 61 65 www.museum-ludwig.de
This attractive museum features works by virtually every big-name artist of the 20th century, with displays of pop art, photography, and one of the world’s largest Picasso collections. The museum also houses sculptures by artists more known for their paintings, including Picasso, Lichtenstein, and Warhol.
Behind the Dom to the right and the Römisch-Germanisches Museum. Audio tour €3, or download the entire thing online before you go. €10, students €7. First Th of the month ½-price after 5pm. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm, first Th of the month 10am-10pm.
KOLUMBA
Kolumbastr. 4
MUSEUM
0221 933 19 30 www.kolumba.de
This enormous concrete building, constructed over the ruins of the Gothic cathedral St. Kolumba, is the art museum of the archbishop of Köln. On the ground floor, a cavernous room reveals the cathedral’s excavation, where a bridge guides you along the rubble. Elsewhere in the museum, ancient relics and church artifacts are juxtaposed with modern secular works, all of them dramatica
lly presented. Art aside, a gorgeous reading room with high-backed and comfortable leather chairs on the top floor invites you to sit and contemplate the art, or to peruse through their collection of art books and German literature.
U3, U4: Appellhofpl., then walk through the Opern Passage and turn left onto Glockengasse and go a block past 4711. Free guidebooks available in English. €5, students €3, under 18 free. Open M-Th 9am-noon and 2-6pm, F 9am-noon.
EL-DE HAUS (NS-DOKUMENTATIONSZENTRUM)
Appellhofpl. 23-25
MUSEUM
0221 2212 6332 www.museenkoeln.de/ns-dok
The city’s former Gestapo headquarters now educates visitors on the city’s history under Nazi rule. Prison cells in the basement, once overcrowded with political wrong-doers and wrongly accused bystanders, have been meticulously preserved, and impart harrowing first-hand accounts of torture that prisoners inscribed into the walls. The inscriptions also include poems of protest, simple calendars, love letters, and self-portraits. The top floors exhibit stories and artifacts from Köln under the Third Reich.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 86