Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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U3, U4, U16, or U18: Appellhofpl., then follow the signs. Engilsh explanations in the downstairs jail, but not in the upstairs exhibits. Audio tour €2. €3.60, students €1.50. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm.
Altstadt-Sud
SCHOKOLADEN MUSEUM
Am Schokoladenmuseum 1a
MUSEUM
0221 931 88 80 www.schokoladenmuseum.de
Yes, it’s every child’s dream: a full-blown chocolate museum and factory! Yet beyond the demonstrations of how to make hollow chocolate balls and the mesmerizing packaging machine, the museum is surprisingly thorough and some sections even downright academic. The anthropologists will appreciate the numerous profiles of cocoa farmers, the activists the explanations of fair trade, and the economists the charts and figures of global chocolate price-setting. Much more than just a fun excuse to immerse yourself in chocolate, the museum is a great opportunity to learn just about everything (and then some) about your favorite food. Be sure to stop at the gold fountain, which spurts a stream of free samples.
Bus #106 to Schokoladen Mueum, or walk south along the Rhein past the Deute Brucke and turn left onto the small footbridge. All explanations in English. €7.50, students €5. Open Tu-F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
DEUTSCHES SPORT AND OLYMPIA MUSEUM
Im Zollhafen 1
MUSEUM
0221 33 60 90 www.sportsmuseum.info
Race through the history of German sportsmanship and the Olympic games in this interactive museum. Hands-on exhibits include a pommel horse, bicycle wind tunnel, boxing ring, and tiny turf soccer field on the roof. Extended exhibits also highlight the design and events of Germany’s own Olympic games, 1936 in Berlin and 1972 in Munich. There’s plenty of German memorabilia (think old sneakers and tennis racquets) displayed as well. No air conditioning means that it gets quite stuffy.
Bus #106 to Schokoladen Mueum, or walk south along the Rhein past the Deute Brucke and turn left onto the small footbridge. The museum is behind the Schokoladen. Captions in English. €6, students €3. Open Tu-F 10am-6pm, Sa-Su 11am-7pm.
MUSEUM SCHNÜTGEN
Cäcilienstr. 29-33
MUSEUM
0221 22 12 36 20 www.museenkoeln.de/museum-schnuetgen
This museum opened in a brand new space in October 2010, showcasing one of the world’s largest collections of medieval art from the early Middle Ages to the end of the Baroque period. With over 5000 Romanesque and Gothic stone sculptures and 2000 works in silver, gold, ivory, and bronze, this museum is a bastion of ecclesiastical art from its very beginnings. Also included is an extensive collection of stained glass windows, tapestries, and priestly fashions.
U1, U3, U4, U7, U9, U16, or U18: Neumarkt, then head east a tiny bit on Cäcilienstr. €5, students €3. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, Su 10am-6pm.
Neustadt
The Romanesque period saw the construction of 12 churches in a semi-circle around the Altstadt, each containing the holy bones of saints to protect the city. Though dwarfed by the splendor of the Dom, these churches attest to the glory and immense wealth of what was once the most important city north of the Alps. The most memorable, owing to its glorious imprints on the city skyline, is the Groß St. Martin. Near the Rathaus and the Altstadt, the church was re-opened in 1985 after near destruction in WWII. The interior is tiled with mosaics from the Middle Ages, and crypts downstairs house an esoteric collection of stones and diagrams (An Groß St. Martin 9 0221 257 79 24 Church free. Crypt €0.50. Open Tu-F 10am-noon and 3-5pm, Sa 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm, Su 2-4pm). In addition, St. Ursula, north of the Dom, commemorates Ursula’s attempts to maintain celibacy despite her betrothal. This was easier after she was struck by an arrow in 383 AD during an untimely attack in the midst of a Hunnish siege. Relics and more than 700 skulls line the walls of the Goldene Kammer (Ursulapl. 24 0221 13 34 00 Church free. Kammer €1, children €0.50. Open M-Sa 10am-noon and 3-5pm, Su 3-4:30pm). The other Romanesque churches include St. Gereon (Gereonsdriesch 2-4), St. Cäcilien (Cäcilienstr. 29),St. Maria im Kapitol (Marienpl. 19), Alt St. Alban (Martinstr. 39), St. Maria (An Lyskirchen 10), St. Georg (Georgspl. 17), St. Pantaleon (An Pantaleonsberg 2), St. Severin (Im Ferkulum 29), St. Kunibert (Kunibertsklosterg. 2), and St. Aposteln (Neumarkt 30).
FOOD
Köln’s local cuisine centers on sausage and rievkooche, slabs of fried potato to dunk in apfelmus (apple sauce). Don’t pass through without sampling the city’s smooth Kölsch beer, a local favorite whose shield adorns most bars. Local brews include Sion, Küppers, Früh, Gaffel, and Dom. They usually come in small 0.2L glasses for freshness, but don’t worry—waiters are quick to refill. Cheap restaurants and cafes packed with students line the trendy Zülpicher Str. (U9, U12, U15: Zülpicher Platz) Mid-priced ethnic restaurants are concentrated around the perimeter of the Altstadt, particularly from Hohenzollernring to Hohenstaufenring. For groceries, head to Rewe City (Hohenstaufenring 30, by Zülpicher Pl. Open M-Sa 7am-midnight.) or Aldi Süd (Richmodstr. 31, by Neumarkt. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.)
Altstadt-Nord
FRÜH AM DOM
Am Hof 18
GERMAN
0221 2613-211 www.frueh.de
It’s enormous, it’s right across the street from the Dom, and it’s always filled with tourists, but even native Kölners will take their out-of-town guests to this massive beer hall for the epitome of the Köln experience. The excellent food is reasonably priced, and the terrace outside offers spectacular views of the Dom.
By the south plaza of the Dom to its right. Entrees €4.10-23. Kölsch €1.60. Open daily 8am-midnight.
Altstadt-Sud
TOSCANINI
Jakobstr. 22
ITALIAN
0221 310 9990
Transport yourself to an Italian country villa with this restaurant, where your food comes out piping fresh from the stone oven. While stone oven pizzas are all the rage in Germany, there are few that do them as well as Toscanini’s; try the Rustica (€8.90), a delicious combination of cheeses, serrano ham, and arugula. The subdued ambience means it’s nice enough for a date, yet casual enough for jeans.
U3 or U4: Severinstr. Head south down Severinstr. and turn right onto Jakobstr. Entrees €5-20. Open M-F noon-3pm and 6-11pm, Sa 6-11pm., Su noon-3pm and 6-11pm.
Neustadt
HABIBI FALAFEL
Zülpicherstr. 26
CAFE
0221 271 71 41 www.habibi-koeln.de
Cheap and hearty falafel (€1.50) and shawarma (€3) make this a popular student joint, especially on late nights after a few rounds of drinks. The falafel is always perfectly moist and the meat is perfectly juicy, and all entrees come with a free cup of tea.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl., then head down Zülpicherstr. to restaurant on right. Entrees €1.50-7.70. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-1am.
BEI OMA KLEINMANN
Zülpicherstr. 9
CAFE
0221 23 23 46 www.beiomakleinmann.de
Though the dear Oma Kleinmann who founded this popular schnitzel joint passed away in 2009, her spirit lives on. The framed prints of photos and other memorabilia from the ’50s attest to the restaurant’s vintage character; a plaque of sorts to the left of the bar with names of students who have eaten the most schnitzel attests to the place’s popularity. A convivial atmosphere permeates the restaurant, so come by for dinner and a few obligatory glasses of Kölsch.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl., then head down Zülpicherstr. to restaurant on left. Schnitzel €9.90-12.80. Kölsch €1.40. Open Tu-Su 5pm-1am. Kitchen open 5-11pm.
CAFE ORLANDO
Engelbertstr. 9
CAFE
0221 42 34 84 03 www.cafeorlando.de
This small cafe, decorated with a red-and-gold vintage French theme, is filled in the mornings with locals enjoying a lazy breakfast and the morning paper. Slow service make this a poor choice for frenzied see-it-all travelers, but a stop here for some coffee or a superbly fresh fruit bowl will not d
isappoint.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl., then head down Zülpicher Pl. and turn right onto Engelbertstr. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfast €3.30-7.50. Omelettes €5.50-5.80. Pasta entrees €5.50-6.80 Open daily 9am-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
For a good time, head over to the Neustadt for your nightlife adventures; the closer to the Rhein or Dom you venture, the quicker your wallet will empty and the more tourists you’re likely to encouter. After dark in Hohenzollernring, crowds of people move from theaters to clubs and finally to cafes in the early hours of the morning. Students congregate in the Bermuda-Dreleck (Bermuda Triangle), bounded by Zülpicherplatz, Roonstr., and Luxemburgstr. The center of gay nightlife runs up Matthiasstr. to Mülhenbach, Hohe Pforte, Marienplatz, and up to the Heumarkt area by Deutzer Brücke. Radiating westward from Friesenpl., the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian Quarter) is dotted with more expensive bars and cafes.
Kölners will often visit four or five establishments in one night, and true to their wanderlust nature, a favorite pasttime includes grabbing bottles of beer at the numerous small kiosks that dot the streets, walking and drinking, then refilling at another kiosk. On summer nights, the Brüsslerplatz area in the shadow of the St. Michael Church is always packed with students on the prowl, with rowdiness that the city has imposed heavy fines against (look for the PSCHT! sign).
Altstadt-Nord
GLORIA
Apostelnstr. 11
BAR, CLUB, CAFE, THEATER
0221 66 06 30 www.gloria-theater.com
A former movie theater, this popular local cafe, comedy theater, and occasional club is at the nexus of Köln’s trendy gay and lesbian scene. Call or visit the website for a schedule of themed parties, which alternate between gay and mixed.
U1, U3, U4, U7, U9, U16, or U18: Neumarkt, then walk west towards the St. Apostein cathedral and follow Apostelnstr. as it curves to the right. Cover €7-30, may include show ticket. Beer €1.60-4.70. Cocktails €6.50. Open M-Sa 10am-11pm, until 5am on party nights. General ticket office open M-F noon-6pm.
Neustadt
DAS DING
Hohenstaufenring 30-32
CLUB
0221 24 63 48 www.dingzone.de
This smoky, eclectic student bar and disco has dirt-cheap specials (often under €1, F-Sa 10-11pm) and themed parties parties. The required student ID at the door keeps the age down and the party hopping.
U9, U12, or U15: Zülpicher Pl. Cover €3-5. Almost all drinks under €3. Open Tu 9pm-3am, W 9pm-2am, Th 10pm-3am, F-Sa 10pm-4am.
DIE WOHNGEMEINSCHAFT
Richard-Wagner-Strasse 39
CLUB
0221 39 75 77 18 www.die-wohngemeinschaft.net
Meet your newest housemates, and sit in the rooms of Annabel, Mai Li, Easy, and JoJo at this novelty club, meant to give 20-somethings the nostalgia of dorms and shared apartments. Annabel’s cutesy white bed with floral sheets is the perfect setting for a girl-talk, while Mai Li’s room has a ping pong table where you can practice her favorite hobby, and the backseat of JoJo’s vintage mini-bus is the perfect place for a bit of privacy (ahem).
U1, U7, U12, or U15: Rudolfpl., then walk south 1 block to Richard-Wagner-Str. and head west. Beer €1.60. Mixed drinks €5-6. Open daily 3pm-2am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Köln explodes with festivity during Karneval (late Jan-early Feb), a week-long pre-Lenten “farewell to flesh.” Celebrated in the hedonistic spirit of the city’s Roman past, Karneval is made up of 50 neighborhood processions in the weeks before Ash Wednesday. The festivities kick off with Weiberfastnacht (Mar 1, 2011; Feb 28, 2012), where the mayor mounts the platform at Alter Markt and abdicates city leadership to the city’s Weiber (a regional, untranslatable, and unabashedly politically incorrect term for women). In a demonstration of power, women then traditionally find their husbands at work and chop off their ties. In the afternoon, the first of the big parades begins at Severinstor. The weekend builds up to the out-of-control parade on Rosenmontag, the last Monday before Lent (Mar. 7, 2011; Mar. 5, 2012). Everyone dresses in costume and gives and gets a couple dozen Bützchen (Kölsche dialect for a kiss on the cheek). While most revelers nurse their hangovers on Shrove Tuesday, pubs and restaurants set fire to straw scarecrows hanging out of their windows.
For shows, get your tickets from KölnTicket (0221 2801 www.koelnticket.de), which has multiple locations throughout the city, most notably in the basement of the Tourist Office in the same building as the Römisch-Germanisches Museum.
OPER DER STADT KÖLN & KÖLNER SCHAUSPIELHAUS
Offenbachpl.
OPERA, THEATER
0221 22 12 84 00 www.buehnenkoeln.de
These two venues, part of the same complex, form Köln’s cultural center and are home to the city’s opera and theater companies. Both are under plans for major renovation to begin sometime in the next few years, but don’t worry—the companies will just move to alternate venues.
U3 or U4: Appellhofpl. Open €10-70, students €10 or 50% off. Schauspielhaus €9-33, students €6. Box office open M-F 10:30am-7pm, Sa 11am-4pm.
KÖLN PHILHARMONIE
Bischofsgartenstr. 1
ORCHESTRA
0221 221 20 40 80 www.koelner-philharmonie.de
This amphitheater is home to the Köln’s very own symphony orchestra. During the normal season, come by on Thursdays at 12:30pm for PhilharmonieLunch, a free 30min. concert. When the orchestra goes on break over the summer, the Kölner Sommerfestival takes over, staging opera and popular musicals on tour.
Behind the Römisch-Germanisches Museum and Museum Ludwig. Prices vary for each concert; students get a 25% discount. Tickets includes local public transportation 4hr. before and 4hr. after the concert.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: KölnTourismus. (Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1, right across from the Dom. 0221 221 www.cologne-tourism.de The basement contains a souvenir shop and a Ticket Office. Several companies have hop-on hop-off bus tours for about €15; inquire in the tourist office. City maps (€0.20) and guides (€0.50) and books rooms for a €3 fee. Do-it-yourself 1.5hr. iGuide €8 per 4hr. English-language walking tour €9, students €7. Open M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 10am-5pm, to 6pm in summer. 1.5hr. English-language walking tour every Sa at 1pm.)
• BUDGET TRAVEL: STA Travel. (Zülpicher Str. 178 0221 44 20 11 U9: Universität. Sells ISICs and books flights. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 11am-3pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Reisebank. (In the Hauptbahnhof. Open daily 7am-10pm.) Inside the tourist office is also Exchange. ( Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
• WOMEN’S RESOURCES: Frauenamt. (Markmannsgasse 7 0221 26482 Open M-F 8am-4pm, Tu 8am-6pm, F 8am-midnight.)
• ROOM SHARE: Zeitwohnen arranges furnished apartments for 1 month to 3 years. (Konrad-Adenauer-Str. 4 0221 8002340 www.zeitwohnen.de Office open M-F 9am-6pm.)
• LAUNDROMAT: Eco-Express Waschsalon. (At the corner of Richard-Wagner-Str. and Händelstr. Wash 6-10am €1.90, 10am-11pm €2.50. Soap €0.50. Dry €0.50 per 10min. Open M-Sa 6am-11pm.)
• GAY AND LESBIAN RESOURCES: SchwIPS Checkpoint. (Pininstr. 7, just around the corner from Hotel Timp. 0221 92 57 68 11 www.checkpoint-koeln.de Emergency helpline. 0221 19228. Open W-Th 5-9pm, F-Sa 2-7pm, Su and holidays 2-6pm.
• INTERNET ACCESS: Most cafes have free wireless, including the Starbucks in the Hauptbahnhof. Gigabyte. (Across the street from the Hauptbahnhof. 24hr. internet terminals €2.79 per hr. Wireless €0.50 per hr.)
• POST OFFICE: (Trankgasse 11, right by the Hauptbahnhof. Open M-Sa 7am-10pm, Su 8am-10pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: 50667.
Emergency!
• POLICE: 110.
• FIRE AND AMBULANCE: 112.
• PHARMACY: Dom Apotheke. (In the courtyard between the Dom and the Hauptbahnhof. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 9am-8pm.)
Getting There
By Plane
Köln-Bonn Flughafen. (Halfway between Köln and Bonn. The S13 runs between the Köln Haupt-bahnhof and
the airport every 20-30min. www.koeln-bonn-airport.de Flight information 02203 4040 0102.)
By Train
The Köln Hauptbahnhof is centrally located right by the Dom in the Altstadt-Nord. Trains to: Berlin ( €60-115. 5-8hr., 1-2 per hr.); Frankfurt ( €30-90. 1-3hr., 2 per hr.); Bonn ( €7-12. 0.25-1hr., 4-5 per hr.); Munich ( €70-150. 5hr., 2 per hr.); Amsterdam, NED (€30-55. 3-4hr., 2 per hr.); Brussels, BEL ( €40-80. 2-4hr., 13 per day); London, GBR ( €70-130. 5hr., 7 per day); Basel, CHE ( €60-140. 4-6hr., 1 per hr.); Vienna, AUT ( €60-180. 8-12hr., 1 per hr.).
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Köln’s buses, trams, and subways are served by the KVB, or Kölner Verkehrs-Betriebe (www.kvb-koeln.de). A short ride (less than 4 stops) is €1.60, kids 6-14 €0.90. A ride anywhere in the city is €2.40, kids €1.20, and the prices increase with farther distance. You can also get 4 tickets at a time for a cheaper price (€8.60, kids €4.50), or get a day ticket (€7.10, €10.40 for up to 5 people). Validate your tickets at the start of your trip by getting them stamped in the rectangular box. If you’re caught without a ticket, you face an immediate €40 fine.