Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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CAFE
089 489 16 54 www.cafe-voila.de
Locals flock here, maybe because they can sit in the sunny atrium and wonder at the color-changing sign behind the bar over breakfast. Or, more likely, it’s the over 100 cocktail choices.
Tram 19: Wörthstr., or S1-8 or U5: Ostbahnhof, head straight out through the entrance onto Wörthstr. one block past the small park between the roads. Happy hour M-Th and Su 5pm-1am: all cocktails €5. Breakfast €4-10.50. Entrees €5.50-21.50. Open daily 8am-1am.
Neuhausen
RUFFINI
Orffstr. 22-24
CAFE
089 16 11 60 www.ruffini.de
This whimsical cafe on a quiet residential street buzzes with locals catching up with each other or the morning paper. Expert baristas churn out perfect cups of frothy cappucino; order yours with a flaky croissant (€5.70) and take it to the sunny rooftop terrace. Downstairs, sample some wines at the bar from an extensive menu (.25L €4.60-7.40), or practice your German reading comprehension with the provided magazines.
Tram 12: Neuhausen, then turn perpendicular to tram route such that park is immediately to the left. Cafe is two blocks down Ruffinistr. Rooftop terrace is self-service, so order downstairs before you sit down. Small bakery attached, entrance on Ruffinistr. Breakfast entrees €5.70-8. 30 Open Tu-Fr 8:30am-6pm, Sa 8:30am-5pm, Su 10am-5pm.
AUGUSTINERKELLER
Arnulftr. 52
GERMAN
089 59 43 93 www.augustineerkeller.de
Augustiner is widely viewed as the most prized of Bavarian brews since its birth in 1824, and its beer garden is no less precious. Clinking beer glasses resound as early as 11am at this favorite, where residents enjoy enormous pretzels and dim lighting beneath century-old chestnut trees. The restaurant serves up authentic Bavarian dishes, though the real attraction is the namesake beer.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, and S8: Hackerbrucke; turn right onto Anulfstr. Maß €7.20. Restaurant entrees €9-23. Beer garden is cash only. Beer garden open daily 11:30am-midnight, restaurant open 10am-1am.
Thalkirchen
ALTER WIRT IN THALKIRCHEN
Fraunbergstr. 8
GERMAN
089 74 21 99 77
This traditional Bavarian kitchen also cooks up various international classic cheap eats like burgers and quesadillas. But you didn’t come to Germany for that, and honestly you’re better off sticking to the traditional stuff. Cheap and hearty food with large portions make this a local favorite.
U3: Thalkirchen, then head down Fraunbergstr. Specials include Schnitzel Thursdays (enormous plate of schnitzel with fries, €5.10 with the purchase of a drink). Entrees €7-16. Open Su-Th 9am-1am, F-Sa 9am-3am. Kitchen closes at midnight.
MANGOSTIN RESTAURANTS
Maria-Einsiedel-Str. 2
ASIAN
089 723 20 31 www.mangostin.de
Half kitschy, half classy, this orientally-inspired Mangostin cooks up pricey Germanized “Asianese” food in a Japanese garden setting. The other restaurants on the same premises also feature artful decor. You’re definitely paying for the miraculous cultural fusion, not the food.
U3: Thalkirchen, take the Tierpark exit and you’ll see it on the corner. Entrees €12-25. Open 11:30am-midnight, though each restaurant’s hours may vary.
NIGHTLIFE
City Center
HOFBRÄUHAUS
Platzl 9
BEER HALL
089 29 01 36 0 www.hofbraeuhaus.de
No trip to Munich is complete without a trip to its most famous beer hall. Steeped in history, Hofbrauhaus remained royalty-only until the King Ludwig I opened it to the public in 1828. Seat yourself at one of the crowded benches and make some new friends. Beer here only comes in liters (€6.90); if you ask for anything less, they’ll chortle and bring you a Maß anyway. By the end of the night, you’ll be singing at the top of your lungs with complete strangers, and if you’re not feeling so well, ask to visit the celebrated vomitorium, an ergonomic device built for those occasions.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3 or U6: Marienplatz.; take a left right before the Altes Rathaus onto Burgstr., walk past the Alter Hof courtyard and take a right onto Pfisterstr. Restaurant will be on your right. Get here early to guarantee a spot, especially for large groups. Entrees €7-14. Open daily 9am-11:30pm.
CAFE AM HOCHHAUS
Blumenstr. 9
CLUB
089 290 13 60 www.cafeamhochhaus.de
One of the first clubs in the area, Cafe am Hochhaus defines itself by its musicality, with DJs spinning anything but mainstream, either from jazz to funk. This draws an assorted clientele, and on any given night you might run into some of Germany’s most famous models or the 50-year-olds who practically live there. Dance under the vodka-bottle-shaped disco ball, and pause to contemplate the quirky wallpaper. Sunday nights are gay-friendly, though straights are always welcome.
U1, U2, U3 or U6: Sendlinger Tor; walk towards the tram stop such that the brick arches of Sendlinger Tor are behind you, and turn left onto Sonnenstr. The road will turn into Blumenstr. and curve multiple times before you reach the cafe on your right. No food. Shots €3-5. Cocktails €7-8. Open daily 8pm-3am, later on the weekends. The party usually doesn’t get started until 10pm.
University Area
ALTER SIMPL
Türkenstr. 57
BAR
089 272 30 83 www.eggerlokale.de
Once a second home to Munich’s bohemian artists and intellectuals, Alter Simpl today contains all the cozy fixings of a neighborhood bar, with a rich history to boot. Founded in 1903, the bar takes its name from an old satiritical magazine called “Simplicissmus,” with the magazine’s iconic logo of a dog breaking the chains of censorship reworked into a dog breaking open a champagne bottle. Coupled with great Bavarian food and a lively student scene, what’s not to love?
U3 or U6: Universität, then turn right on Schellingstr. and right onto Türkenstr. Beer 3 per .5L. Snacks and entrees €5.50-14. Daily lunch specials €7.77. Open M-Th and Su 11am-3am, F-Sa 11am-4am. Kitchen closes 1hr. before.
SCHELLING SALON
Schellingstr. 54
BAR
089 272 07 88 www.schelling-salon.de
A Munich institution since 1872, rack up at the tables where Lenin, Rilke, and Hitler once played (€9 per hour). The walls, filled with newspaper articles and other memorabilia, attest to the salon’s cred. Unwind with a cheap beer and friends after a hectic week of real drinking.
U3 or U6: Universität, then head away from the Siegestor and take a right onto Schellingstr. Foosball and ping pong also available. Breakfast €3-6, German entrees €5-12, beer 0.5L €2.90. Open M and Th-Su 10am-1am. Kitchen open until midnight.
Au-Haidhausen
MUFFATWERK
Zellstr. 4
LIVE MUSIC
089 45 87 50 10 www.muffatwerk.de
This former power plant hosts techno, hip-hop, spoken word, jazz, and dance performances. The massive performance hall features international DJs and artists, while the attached beer garden and cafe provide a more relaxed venue for enjoying the afternoon or evening.
Tram 18: Deutsches Museum, then cross the bridge and turn left (follow the signs). Cover generally €5-9, though many events are free; concert tickets vary in price. Check website for events. Shows generally begin between 9-10pm with entry one hour earlier. Beer garden open M-Th 5pm-1am, F-Su noon-1am. Clubbing nights generally begin between 10-11pm.
OPTIMOLWERKE AND KULTFABRIK
Friedenstr. 6 and Grafingerstr. 6
CLUB COMPLEXES
089 450 69 20, 089 45 02 88 99
www.optimolwerke.de and www.kultfabrik.de
In adjacent lots lie Kultfabrik and Optimolwerke, two powerhouses of adolescent fury, each with enormous candy-store assortments of smaller venues. Many locals complain that the enormity of these complexes lends an impersonal feel, and their location in abandoned factories by the train tracks is just gritty, but
here’s where you’ll find Munich’s youth into the wee hours. Hours, covers, and themes vary between each of the invididual venues, which range from the fun-in-the-sun Bamboo Beach (Kultfabrik), complete with imported sand, to the darker Drei Turme (Optimolwerke) with its castle-like interior. Also within Kultfabrik is Kalinka, where you can fill up on vodka and party it up against a giant 7ft. bust of Lenin (open F-Sa). Kultfabrik also offers a monthly publication with schedules that you can find in many hostels and other places where young people congregate.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, or S8: Ostbahnhof, then walk through the underground tunnels past all the tracks to the back of the station and follow the crowds. Prices vary, but covers are generally around €5 and cheaper if you go earlier in the night. Hours vary, but most parties begin between 10-11pm; check online for directories for each club.
Neuhausen
LÖWENBRÄUKELLER
Nymphenburgerstr. 2
BEER HALL AND GARDEN
089 54 72 66 90 www.loewenbraeukeller.com
Marienplatz has Hofbräuhaus, and Neuhausen has Löwenbräukeller. Across the street from the Löwenbräu distillery, Löwenbräukeller is easily identifiable by its elaborate tower of green and the characteristic Lowenbrau lion sitting on the terrace. Renovated in 2008, Löwenbräukeller offers the best of all worlds—an ornate indoor beer hall, a relaxed rooftop terrace, and a 1000-seat beer garden. Dine on traditional Bavarian fare while downing Löwenbräu lager under the stars, and you sing your way back home in the company of new friends.
U1: Stiglmaierpl. English menu available. Maß €7.80. Entrees €8-20 Open daily 10am-midnight.
BACKSTAGE
Wilhelm-Hale Str. 38
BAR
089 126 61 00 www.backstage.eu
Housed in a converted gas station, Backstage features music, often live, from the indie underground scene. Local crowd varies depending on the evening’s act, but during the summer you can always expect a crowded Biergarten with one of the best beer deals in town (Maß €4.80).Sports games and movies make for raucous parties.
SB: Hirschgarten, or Tram 16 or 17: Steubenpl. Check the website for details. No cover for most events. Summer Biergarten open M-Th 6pm-2am (or later), F-Sa 6pm-4am, Su 6pm-2am (or later). Check website for specific events; nightly dance parties usually start between 10-11pm.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Though the culture here seemingly centers around beer, you’re never at a loss for world-class music and theater. For comprehensive listings of performances, check out Munich Found (www.munichfound.de €3 at newsstands). Tickets for most events can be purchased at München Ticket, a counter at either of the tourist offices (018 054 81 81 81 www.muenchenticket.de).
Theater, Opera, and Classical Music
As a Wagnerian capital, Munich has a thriving classical music and opera scene, especially in the summertime, as many historic attractions host their own concert series. Get a taste for King Ludwig II’s Wagner obsession by attending an opera yourself; the opera festival (www.muenchener-opern-festspiele.de) in July features performances in the Pavilion 21 Mini Opera Space, a contemporary expanse of angular steel set up at the square behind the National Theater, as well as Oper für Alle (Opera for All), free open-air concerts and Jumbotron-broadcasted operas under the summer stars.
NATIONAL THEATER
Max-Joseph-Pl. 2
OPERA
089 21 85 19 20 www.bayerische-staatsoper.de
Built by Max Joseph to bring opera to the people, this magnificent theater is now home to the Bayerische Staatsoper and has soaring white balustrades, an enormous chandelier, and rich velvet seating. Student tickets (from €9) sold 1hr. before shows at the entrance on Maximilianstrand or two weeks in advance from the box office at Marstallpl. 5 behind the theater. Tickets can also be purchased online.
U3 or U6: Odeonspl. or Tram 19: Nationaltheater. Subtitles in German. ISICs not accepted for student tickets; bring alternate forms of IDs. Guided tours €5, students €4. Box office open M-Sa 10am-7pm and 1 hr. before shows. Guided tours of the theater almost daily in the summer in German; English-language tours offered four times a year in July. All tours start at 2pm and last 1hr. See website for details.
STAATSTHEATER AM GÄRTNERPLATZ
Gärtnerpl. 3
THEATER
089 20 23 86 84 www.gaertnerplatztheater.de
This theater in the nightlife hub of Gartnerplatz shows a mix of comic operas, musical theater, and, true to the cultured bohemian atmosphere of the area, artsy-fartsy works from the early 20th century. The steps outside are also a popular hangout spot, perfect for people watching over a meal on the go.
Tram 17 or 18: Reichenbachpl. Tickets generally €4-60; students always get half price, or certain shows have “KiJu” €8 student tickets. Box office open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-1pm.
PRINZREGENTENTHEATER
Prinzregentenpl. 12
THEATER
089 21 85 02 www.prinzregententheater.de
A magnificent theater built as a festival hall for the performance of Wagner’s operas, the Prinzregententheater now houses the Bayerische Theaterakademie and shows a number of productions ranging from theater, classical music, opera, to ballet.
U4: Prinzregentenplatz. €8 student tickets available for most shows at the door. Box office open M-F 10am-1pm, 2-6pm; Sa 10am-1pm.
Film
English films are usually dubbed in German - look for “OV” (original language) and “OmU” (subtitled) on posters or listings. Pick up some facts on the world’s most obscure (and some not-so-obscure) topics at Munich’s Internationales Dokumentarfilmfestival (www.dockfest-muenchen.de), a weeklong international documentary competition held every May. For the more mainstream, the broader Filmfest München (www.filmfest-muenchen.de) takes place in mid-summer and is spread out in theaters all throughout the city. Listings for these festivals, as well as some of the larger cinemas in Munich, can be found in in München.
CINEMA
Nymphenburgerstr. 31
MOVIE THEATER
089 55 52 55 www.cinema-muenchen.com
This theater plays almost exclusively English-language films, along with live satellite broadcasts of operas and concerts from all around the world. Sip a bier during the movie to remember you’re in Munich, or grab some Ben and Jerry’s and pretend you’re back home.
U1: Stiglmaierpl., then 2 blocks west on Nymphenburgerstr. Reserve tickets online, as movies often sell out. €7.50-8.50, students €6.50-7.50. Matinees M-F before 5:30pm €4.50/€3.50.
MUSEUM LICHTSPIELE
Lilienstr. 2
MOVIE THEATER
089 482403 wwwmuseum-lichtspiele.de
This cute, quirky little theater is perhaps best known for their weekly showing of Rocky Horror (F-Sa 11:30pm), a tradition that has continued for 34 years. Films are all shown in their original versions, with most of them in English.
Tram 18: Deutsches Museum, cross the bridge, and head to the right. Tickets vary by day and time, ranging from €5.50-7.50. Student tickets generally €1 less.
Other Music
Big-name pop stars usually perform at the Olympiahalle and the Olympiastadion. These being outdoor venues, though, you can always sit on the grass at the Olympiapark and enjoy the music for free. Smaller venues for less mainstream artists can be found at Muffatwerke and Backstage.
TOLLWOOD FESTIVAL
Olympiapark South
FESTIVAL
0700-38 38 50 24 www.tollwood.de
Munich’s annual culture festival attracts a young and active German audience for hundreds of concerts, theatrical productions, and circus shows from the world’s leading performers. These spectacular presentations compete for attention amid Oktoberfest-style tents serving delicacies, including Munich’s own sweet nectar, beer. Tollwood Magazine, available from the tourist office, lists performances, many of which are free.
U3: Olympiazentrum, or take the special MVV bus (Tollwood 99) that runs from Westfriedhof (U1) and Schiedpla
tz (U2 and U3). Held mid-June-mid-July and late Nov-Dec. Festival grounds open M-F 2pm-1am, Sa-Su 11am-1am.
GLOCKENBACH WERKSTATT BÜRGERHAUS
Blumenstr. 7
COMMUNITY CENTER
089 26 88 38 www.glockenbachwerkstatt.de
By day, this community center hosts a kindergarten and other kid-friendly courses, including dance, soccer, and African drumming. By night, the place transforms into a hub that showcases local talent, with open mic nights, jam sessions, live concerts, and DJ dance parties. A summer courtyard cafe is a choice snack spot for many local.
S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, U3 of U6: Marienpl., then wrap around Viktualienmarkt, turn right onto Reichenbachstr., right onto Frauenstr., which turns into Blumenstr. when the road curves. Events vary widely from day to day, so check the schedule online. Cover charges free-€8. Open daily; nighttime events start between 5 and 10pm.