Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 110
Ferencváros, District IX
Similar to the eighth district, Ferencváros is an up-and-coming district with newly renovated Baroque buildings and winding cobblestone streets. The past few years of “city rehabilitation” projects have left the inner half-circle (the area contained between Ferenc körút and the Danube) of the district looking freshly polished, albeit a bit empty. As the renovated areas get prettier, they also become more expensive, forcing previous dwellers to move to communities outside of the boulevard, where delapidated buildings and streets with the homeless are still the norm. The main attraction for tourists in this part of town is Ráday utca, a small pedestrian street lined with restaurants and bars. While it can be an enjoyable place to dine in the evening hours, strict district codes forcing establishments to close their doors at midnight leave the nightlife seeker at a bit of a loss.
The Városliget City Park
The City Park is a lush respite from the heat and messy chaos of the city. It’s located behind Heroes’ Square and is the gateway to the freeway roward Eger and other parts in the northeastern corner of the country. While it’s easy to stick to the parks and not spend any money here, it is also very easy to blow all your savings as the area is home to some of the most expensive restaurants in the city, namely the posh Gundel, a restaurant frequented by royalty. If you want to spend the whole day here and are too lazy to walk back toward the Oktogon on Andrássy út for cheaper fare, make great friends with the lángos makers, as fried dough is probably your only bet for budget-friendly gnawing.
Várhegy, Central Buda, and the Vizivaros
These three adjacent districts are Buda’s most attractive neighborhoods and include Castle Hill, the famous Chain Bridge, and some of the city’s most authentic Hungarian restaurants. It’s easy to spend a whole day perusing the cobblestone streets of Castle Hill, marveling at the view and learning about Hungarian art in the National Gallery. For the adventurous traveler with a day or month pass for city transportation, it is also recommended to take a bus from Margit Bridge, which winds through the Buda hills and behind the castle, for some unofficial sightseeing from the window of the wealthy Rózsadomb neighborhood with its palatial abodes.
Gellért Hegy Gellért Hill
Gellért Hill offers the best view of Pest (and some peripheral views of Buda). If you’re looking to capture impressive, heart-stopping photographs to flaunt, make the trek up here on foot, for a rewarding experience, or on bus, for a relaxed one. There are a few attractions on the hill itself, such as the Liberty Monument commemorating all who have risked their lives for the Hungarian state, but they fail to steal the show. If you’re going to spend more than an hour or two up here, pack sandwiches before you go—anything being sold is triple the price found down the hill.
Óbuda
Óbuda is a residential area north of downtown Pest and most attractions in Central Buda. If you’re looking to witness how the layman lives in Budapest, it’s worth a bus ride out and some open-minded wandering. Óbuda’s most intriguing attraction, besides, of course, the magical Roman Aquincum Ruins, is the nation’s largest communist-era apartment building called the Panel (for the panels of concrete with which they are assembled) at Flórián tér. A recent restoration project of this panel to make them a little more humane has left Flórián tér a giant block of apartments painted neon green.
Margit-Sziget Margaret Island
Margaret Island—an oasis of lush greens, expansive parks and a 5km running loop that wraps around the perimeter—is hands-down the most relaxing place in the city. Mostly a summer haunt for locals and tourists seeking respite from the blazing sun and dirty streets, this place offers something akin to Central Park in New York City, but even better as the river rushes past and building views are almost non-existent. It feels as if you’ve stumbled into a rain forest big enough to find your own secret nook.
ACCOMMODATIONS
The Belváros
ALL CENTRAL HOSTEL
Bécsi u. 2
HOSTEL
01 328 0955 www.allcentral.hu
A no-frills hostel with friendly staff, sleek metal bunks, pristine bathrooms and unbeatable location and prices. An elevator whisks weary pack-toting travelers up to one of the four floors for a night of urban-style repose. While the place functions as a hostel during the summer months, foreign students might find this the cheapest deal in the city for term-time housing. A couple blocks away from the Parliament building, Danube River, Basilica and Váci utca, this place is a steal.
M1, M2, or M3: Deák Ferenc Tér. Head down Bárczy István utca towards river and turn right on Bécsi utca. Wi-Fi included. Laundry 800Ft. Kitchen. Luggage and safe included. Lockers available. Dorms 3000-5000Ft; doubles 14,000Ft. Reception 24hr. Check-out 10am.
THE LOFT HOSTEL
Veres Pálné u. 19
HOSTEL
01 328 0916 www.lofthostel.hu
Gorgeous wood paneling, modern decor, tons of leisure activities to keep you occupied (if you choose to stay inside), and carefully-scrubbed bathrooms make this an oasis from tourism. The giant common room can keep the introverted busy and an energetic clientele will gladly team up for a night out. The helpful staff can point you in the right direction for excursions in and just outside of the city.
M3: Ferenciek Tere. Walk toward river, turn left on Veres Pálné. It’s the 3rd street up, parallel to the river. Wi-Fi included. Kitchen. Printing, DVDs, and games available. Dorms 3400-4400Ft. Reception 24hr.
Lipótváros
AVENTURA BOUTIQUE HOSTEL
XIII, Visegrádi utca 12.
HOSTEL
01 239 0782 www.aventurahostel.com
The lofted floors of this hostel feel like your neighborhood playground jungle gym. All the beds have locked storage compartments, and a super-friendly staff gladly doles out suggestions on the where- and what-to’s. An amply-stocked kitchen offers free snacks, while a laid-back clientele keeps the ruckus at a low frequency.
M3: Nyugati. From the Metro head down Szent István körút toward the river and turn right onto Visegrádi. Wi-Fi, food, spices, and cooking supplies included. Walking audio guide rental of the entire city 3000-5000Ft. Dorms from 3500Ft; doubles 11,000Ft. Reception 24hr. Flexible check-out.
THE GROOVE HOSTEL
XIII, Szent István krt 16.
HOSTEL
01 786 8038 www.groovehostel.hu
This hostel has inviting hardwood floors, a cheery interior, plush cubes and beanbags scattered around, and views of downtown Budapest that leave other hostels in the dust. Check out the TV loft above the reception desk or head next door to the famous Comedy Theater for a night of laughs.
M3: Nyugati. From the Metro head down Szent István krt towards the river; the hostel will be on your right. Wi-Fi, lockers, and linens included. Dorms from 2700Ft. Reception 24hr.
Erzsébetváros
10 BEDS
Erzsébet krt 15.
HOSTEL
01 3620 933 59 65
Feels like you’ve stumbled into a long-lost cousin’s apartment. A happy and friendly hostel where long-term guests sometimes become quasi-staff members and welcome you to the city with a trip to a bath or a pub crawl. Eat your breakfast at the stylish new bar or take a bath in the relaxing tub.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. Head north on Erzsébet krt from the Metro for a block and a half; the hostel is on your right. Laundry, lockers, linens, and Wi-Fi included. Dorms from 3000Ft. Reception 24hr.
THUMBS UP HOSTEL
Kertész utca 18.
HOSTEL
01 3630 318 44 43 www.thumbsuphostel.com
A great deal in the center of town. Two giant common rooms give you something to do for a night and comfy beds at a low price will make you sleep like a baby. A giant flatscreen and loads of DVDs will make you feel right at home. Head to the kitchen to chat with the laid-back clientele.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. Head north on Erzsébet krt and veer left at the first intersection; the hostel is near the corner
of Kertész and Wesselényi. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, lockers, and linens included. Towels 300Ft. Laundry 2000Ft. Quiet after 10pm. Dorms from 2500Ft; doubles from 4500Ft. Reception 24hr. Check-out 11am.
Terézváros
HOME-MADE HOSTEL
Teréz Körút 22
HOSTEL
01 302 21 03 www.homemadehostel.com
A happy, earthy, and surprisingly quiet little hostel in an apartment building on the main boulevard a block from the Oktogon. Extremely friendly staff cooks delicious food a few times per week to ease you into Hungarian living. Antique TVs, radios, rugs, and no bunks give a unique experience for the traveler looking for a safe and sound stay.
M1: Oktogon. From the Metro, take Teréz krt east from Oktogon; the hostel is on your left. Scooter rental. Towels, linens, and Wi-Fi included. Locker deposit 1000Ft. Dorms from 3600Ft; doubles from 12,000Ft. Reception 24hr.
BROADWAY HOSTEL
Ó street 24-26
HOSTEL
01 688 16 62 www.broadwayhostel.hu
Your name won’t be in lights on Broadway, but you’ll find a hammock in the courtyard to hang in and wonderfully comfortable beds upon which to sleep away your traveling hardships. Smaller rooms make the experience more personal and each bed has its own giant cupboard that locks. The location is perhaps one of the most happening streets in town and you can’t miss the building covered in murals and colorful—intentional—graffiti.
M1: Opera. From the Metro head north on Hajós utca and take the 1st right; hostel is on the left and adorned by graffiti. 10- to 16-bed dorms from 3300Ft. Reception 24hr.
Józsefváros
MANDRAGORA BOUTIQUE HOSTEL
Krúdy Gyula utca 12.
HOSTEL
01 789 95 15 www.mandragorahostel.com
This phenomenal budget option doesn’t offer dorm rooms, but there is no place in the city, especially with such a great location, that offers private singles and doubles for less. Its gorgeous interior decor looks like something out of a magazine and most of the rooms come with a bathtub. A kitchen and common dining room give the communality of a hostel, but the retreat into a private space gives you the comfort of home.
M2: Blaha Lujza tér. Across from the Metro. Wi-Fi included. TV and DVDs available in the com mon area. Singles from 5500Ft; doubles from 8000Ft. Reception 24hr. Check-out 11am.
Ferencváros
MAXIM HOSTEL
Ráday utca 34
HOSTEL
01 2360 404 02 22 www.maximhostel.com
Maxim is a new hostel located on the main street of Ferencváros, Ráday. Amazing wooden beds will help you rest easy under crazy wall murals. A spacious bathtub will wash the city grime off your skin and help you relax from the energy of the street. Cool movie theater seats in the common area provide a fun repose and the staff is always on hand to give advice about the city. Occasional free Hungarian meals cooked by staff members cap off an unbeatable deal.
M3: Ferenc körút. From the station, head west on Üllői and make a left at Kinizsi utca. The hostel is on the corner of Knizsi and Ráday. Wi-Fi, linens, towels, and breakfast included. Dorms from 2250Ft; doubles from 7000Ft. Reception 24hr.
Gellért Hegy
BUDA BASE
Döbrentei utca 16
HOSTEL
01 3620 543 74 81
Probably the coolest location to stay in this city. At the foot of Gellért Hill you can see the Liberty Statue, Parliament, Chain Bridge, and the beautiful buildings lining Pest’s shore from your window. Two- and eight-bed dorms usually cost the same and depend on availability. A spacious living room that opens to the kitchen and dining room decorated with the owner’s personal furniture give the place an inviting feel. Don’t let the Buda location deter you: Pest’s buzzing streets are only a 10min. walk away.
Tram 18 or 19: Döbrentei tér. From the tram stop, head south toward the square. Lockers and linens included. Free Internet and Wi-Fi extends into the garden so you can surf the net in the cool breeze. 2- to 8-bed dorms 2000-3300Ft; doubles 8200-10,950Ft. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
The Belváros
GRAND MARKET HALL (NAGYCSARNOK)
Váci utca and Vámház körút
MARKET
While it looks more like the Nyugati train station, this hall was built in 1894 to emulate the trend of indoor markets in major Western European cities. If you are looking for legit local fruits and veggies, though, don’t be fooled by this tourist trap, and head instead to the Buda side markets for a better value. Grand Market Hall is worth a trip to witness the infamous Hungarian assertiveness and to gawk at the arched windows, colorfully tiled roof, and Hungarian folk costume peddlers. If you do end up doling out some cash, be sure to haggle like crazy. Head downstairs for some fish and pickled delicacies like pearl onion, stuffed paprika, and cabbage.
M3: Kálvin Tér. From the Metro take Vámház toward the river. Open M 6am-5pm, Tu-F 6am-6pm, Sa 6am-2pm.
UNIVERSITY CHURCH
Papnövelde utca 7
CHURCH
Once the site of a Turkish mosque, University Square is accented by the glowing orange Baroque architecture of University Church, built in 1725. Pauline monks spent 17 years building and then perfecting every nook and cranny of the church, while hiding valuable goblets and costumes in the cupboards lining the interior. This easy-to-miss chapel is between rows of tall buildings and several streets up from the main downtown tourist area, but is worth a gander if you like secret spots. Take it easy under one of the trees in front of the church, or head inside and marvel at its unsung glory.
M3: Ferenciek tere. From the Metro head east on Kecskeméti utca and turn right on Papnövelde. Services M-F 7am and 6pm, Su 8am, 9am, 11am, 12:30pm, 5pm, 7:30pm.
ERZSÉBET TÉR
CITY PARK
The largest green space in the downtown Pest area, this unassuming chunk of nature has undergone a series of name changes. Initially Queen Elizabeth Square, it became New Square, and then changed to simply Market Place. After WWII it became Stalin Square, then Engels Square from 1953, until its final christening as Elizabeth Square in 1990. An overeager administration planned to construct the new National Theatre Concert Hall at the site just over a decade ago—much to the dismay of the city—and even broke ground just before they were ousted from office. The beginnings of the dig were abandoned and residents began referring to the gaping hole in the middle of the downtown as “gödör” (pothole). Fortunately, an ambitious urban renewal project has turned the area into the city’s most beloved park, equipped with rolling picnicking greens and a twinkling pool-fountain. The multi-function Gödör Klub hosts art shows and live music in what was once intended as a theater. Sit and enjoy the hum of melodies, the smell of kolbász grilling, and the grind of skate punks ripping past, with a cold brew and amiable company.
M1-3: Deák Tér.
Lipótváros
ORSZÁGHAZ (PARLIAMENT)
Plaza Kossuth
GOVERNMENT BUILDING
01 441 4000 www.parlament.hu
“The motherland does not have a house,” lamented Hungarian poet Mihály Vörösmarty in 1846. In response to the growing sense of Hungarian nationalism during the period, the palatial Gothic building looks more like a cathedral than a seat of government. The building is the largest in Hungary and towers at 96m, a number symbolizing the date of Hungary’s millenial anniversary. The building once required more electricity than the rest of the city combined to supply power to its 692 rooms. The gold and marble interior shines proudly on the original Holy Crown of Hungary.
M2: Kossuth Tér. Head towards the river. Tours start at Gate XII. Tours last about 50min. Entrance and tour 2850Ft, students 1410Ft, free with EU passport. Ask a guard for permission to buy a ticket at Gate X. English-language tours daily 10am, noon, 2pm; buy tickets early, especially in summer. Ticket office opens at 8am.
SAINT STEPHEN’S BASILICA (SZT. ISTVÁN BAZILIKA)
Hercegprímás utca 7
CHURCH