Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Guided tours are given for free every W, F, and Su at 2:30pm. Free. Open T 10am-5:30pm, W 10:30am-5:30pm, Th-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 12pm-5:30pm.
North of O’Connell Street
For the Hugh Lane Gallery and the Gardens of Remembrance, you’ll want to head behind the Parnell monument and to the top of Parnell Sq. Leaving the Hugh Lane Gallery, turn left to get to the Writers Museum, and the James Joyce Centre is just a few blocks down in the same direction.
DUBLIN WRITERS MUSEUM
18 Parnell Sq.
MUSEUM
01 872 2077 www.writersmuseum.com
James Joyce may have his own digs just up the road, but Ireland’s other greats are also being remembered in style. The DWM showcases old manuscripts, first editions, and tons of memorabilia (read: old pipes and typewriters up the ying yang). Head upstairs to see the one thing the James Joyce Centre doesn’t have—his piano—and then come back down and admire both the artistry on the wall and the beautiful home itself. If you really like the house, thank the father of Irish whiskey, John Jameson, who lived in it from 1891 to 1914 and is responsible for much of the renovation.
Continue walking along Parnell St. north with the Hugh Lane Gallery on your left; the museum is at the end of the block. Cafe and gift shop. €7.50, seniors and students €6.30, children €4.70, family (2+2) €18.70. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-5pm. Last entry 45min. before close.
THE HUGH LANE GALLERY
166 Parnell Sq.
ART GALLERY
01 222 5564 www.hughlane.ie
A modern art gallery that’s so modern, it doesn’t even have to show you just art: the works of the famous painter Francis Bacon are here, but so is his studio. Literally. An exact replica of one of his studios has been brought in and assembled right in the gallery, so now you can see just how much disorder it takes to create art. Upstairs and downstairs collections are interesting and slightly less messy, at least the art there is restricted to the canvas.
At the top of Parnell Sq., across the street from the Gardens of Remembrance. Cafe and bookstore downstairs. Free. Suggested donation €2. Open Tu-Th 10am-6pm, F-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-5pm.
JAMES JOYCE CENTRE
35 North Great George’s St.
MUSEUM
01 878 8547 www.jamesjoyce.ie
A Georgian house on North Great George’s St. now houses the James Joyce Centre. Part museum, part headquarters for Joyce fanatics of Dublin, it’s also a mecca for Joyce fanatics from the rest of the world. And trust us, there are plenty. Pieces of note include a copy of Joyce’s deathmask, a table at which part of “Ulysses” was written, and the door to 7 Eccles St., the fictional residence of Leopold Bloom.
Walk up O’Connell St. to the Parnell Statue, turn right onto Parnell St. and then left onto North Great George’s St. Group discounts available. €5, students and seniors €4. Open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-5pm.
Dorset Street and Drumcondra
Croke Park is a little bit, okay, a lotta bit, out of the way. However, it’s also roughly the size of an aircraft carrier, so it’s hard to miss. Take a taxi, or walk your way up along Drumcondra.
CROKE PARK
Croke Park, Jones Rd.
SPORTS STADIUM
01 819 2323 www.crokepark.ie
Taking you for a run-around the magnificent Croke Park Stadium, home of Gaelic football and hurling, this tour covers the stadium from top to bottom, literally. You’ll hit the locker room, players lounge, and corporate top boxes. Holding 82,300 occupants when full, Croke Park is the 4th largest stadium in Europe—pretty impressive when you consider that all Gaelic sports are amateur sports. Those burly players? Yeah, they all have day jobs. The museum is informative for those interested in picking up the history, but for those who’ve really been wondering what it’s like to play Gaelic sports can try them out on the second floor, where you can try your luck with a hurling bat or test your foot accuracy kicking a Gaelic football. Of course, the truest way to experience Croke Park is to see a game, so ask about tickets while you’re there.
Buses that pass by Croke Park are the 3, 11, 11a, 16, 16a, 46a and 123. Tour and museum €11, museum only €6; students and seniors €8.50/4.50; under 12 €7.50/4; under 5 free/free; family €30/16. Open Sept-June M-F 9:30am-5pm, Su noon-5pm; July-Aug M-F 9:30am-6pm, Su noon-6pm. Last tour at 3pm.
GARDENS OF REMEMBRANCE
Up past the Parnell Monument, just below Dorset St.
PUBLIC PARK
A nice place to escape and rest your legs or get out of the hustle-and-bustle of the city around you, the Gardens of Remembrance are defined by a giant, cross-shaped pool at the bottom, and a large statue of falling men and women and rising geese at the end. Mind you don’t sit on the grass, though—they’ve got signs there to tell you it’s a no-no.
Free to the public.
FOOD
Dublin’s food is, contrary to popular belief, very good. Sure, there are a lot of boiled and fried foods liberally doused in salt, but time and practice have honed those dishes down to their delicious cores. More exotic flavors have come to Dublin thanks to the Celtic Tiger, and a huge variety of ethnic restaurants can be found all over the city. Unfortunately, there are also a slew of bad fast food chains. Here’s the traveler’s rule of thumb: if it smells the same back home as it does in Dublin, shy away.
Temple Bar and the Quays
If there’s a place to escape Ireland’s infamy as a country with “bad” or “dull” food options (though these are words that are thrown around by other people, and Let’s Go has always held Irish cuisine in high regard), that place is Temple Bar. It’s got traditional Irish fare, rest assured, but it’s also become quite the cosmopolitan neighborhood. You also won’t have far to go to find several international options.
PANEM
21 Lower Ormond Quay, Dub 1
CAFE
01 872 8510
Run by a Sicilian man and his Irish wife, Panem has got your coffee and pastry fix covered. With imported Italian coffee (€2.50-3) and the mind-meltingly delicious Sicilian almond biscuits for just (€1) each, Panem will become your morning, or afternoon, or evening, ritual.
Over the Millenium Bridge from Temple Bar. €.90-6.50. Cash only. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm.
TANTE ZOE’S
1 Crow St., Temple Bar
CREOLE
01 679 4407 www.tantezoes.com
The food’s all Creole, all the time (jambalayas and gumbos are the plat du jour, toujours), but the ambience is divided. Sit upstairs for the feel of a French bistro or head downstairs for a close-quartered jazz club. Come Saturday nights to hear the singing waitress.
1 block west of Central Bank Plaza, head north on Crow St. €7-30. Open M-Th noon-10pm, F-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-10pm.
BOTTICELLI’S
No. 3 Temple Bar St.
ICE CREAM
01 672 7289 www.botticelli.ie
Providing Temple Bar’s ice cream fix, Botticelli’s serves Italian gelato in cups or cones from €2.50-5. Flavors include banana, tiramisu, and Italian cioccolato. Coffee is served as well.
Temple Bar St., across from The Temple Bar. Cash only. Open 11am-midnight everyday.
GERTRUDE’S CAFE AND RESTAURANT
3-4 Bedford Row, Temple Bar
CAFE
01 677 9043
A comfortable cafe both in view of the Quays and Temple Bar street, Gertrude’s is a good place to grab your morning coffee and watch the passers-by. Gertrude’s offers coffee varieties (€2.50-3.25) as well as sandwiches (€7-9) and pizzas (€9-14). Servers are affable, but you can push the doorbell outside on the terrace if you don’t see anyone.
Just north of Gogarty’s, Temple Bar. €2.50-14. Open daily 8am-6pm.
ISKANDERS
30 Dame St.
LATE NIGHT
01 670 4013
After a long night of drinking, you’ll swear it’s the greatest thing you’ve ever eaten. Oh, and it’s good sober, too. Iskander’s is a Dublin institution and
its massive shawarma with fries and a coke (€10) should not be missed.
Cash only. Open daily 11am-5am.
STAGE DOOR CAFÉ
10b-11 East Essex St., Temple Bar
CAFE
01 677 6297
Though the sign from its old namesake, the “Lemon Jelly Café” is still on, this cafe has undergone a serious renovation to make the atmosphere as fun and eclectic as the food and drink are tasty. A full Irish breakfast is available all day, or you can select from fresh pastries, cakes, and quiches. There’s also a “create your own” sandwich or wrap option available (€6.95.) Take your meal out on the terrace to allow the sun’s rays curative powers to work on your hangover.
Wi-Fi coming soon. Coffee €2-6. Food €3-9. Open M-F 8am-9 or 10pm, Sa-Su 9am-10:30pm.
GALLAGHER’S BOXTY HOUSE
20-21 Temple Bar st., Temple Bar
IRISH
01 677 2762 www.boxtyhouse.ie
Nearly all of the pubs in the Temple Bar area serve some kind of Irish food, but Gallagher’s takes it a step further with an interior most reminiscent of a 19th-century Irish household. It features “Boxty,” a dish of potato pancakes with meat and veggie fillings, that’ll fill you up, even if it doesn’t exactly shock your taste buds. You might find it hard to choose a drink at this joint’s full bar.
On Temple Bar St., just off Anglesea St. Appetizers €4-11. Entrees €19-23. Open M-Th 10am-11pm, F-Sa 10am-11:30pm, Su 10am-11pm.
MILANO
19 East Essex St., Temple Bar
ITALIAN
01 670 3384 www.milano.ie
Serves fresh, made-in-front-of-you pizzas in either a “classic” or “romana” style, a thinner, crispier crust. The modern interior, with sweeping lines and tiny table lamps, ensures a nice evening out, even in the screaming Temple Bar.
€7-15. Open M-Sa noon-10:30pm, Su noon-10pm.
Grafton Street
CORNUCOPIA
19-20 Wicklow St.
VEGETARIAN
01 677 7583 www.cornucopia.ie
Prepare to get your health on. Cornucopia serves meals that are vegan, gluten-free, wheat-free, yeast-free, dairy-free, egg-free, and (of course) low-fat. Despite their alarming lack of harmful ingredients, the food is delicious and comes served up hearty buffet style. You can even try some organic wine (€5.35 per glass, €21.50 per bottle).
Just down Wicklow St. from the tourist information office. Upcoming bands post flyers for shows in the entrance. Open M-W noon-9pm, Th-Sa noon-10:30pm, Su noon-8:30pm.
BUTLER’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ
Wicklow St.
CAFE
01 671 0591 www.butlerschocolates.com
The Butler’s advertising is very, very good. First, you walk in and delicious looking chocolate is shown being made on the TV. “No,” you tell yourself, and you approach the counter but...gasp! They have all of their delicious truffles on display under a glass counter at the register!
Wicklow St. across the street from Munchies Cafe. Coffee €2-3.50. Boxes of take-away chocolate €2-50. Open M-F 7:45am-7pm, Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10:30am-7pm.
CAPTAIN AMERICA’S
44 Grafton St.
STEAKHOUSE
01 671 5266 www.captainamericas.com
Believe it or not, Captain America’s is an Ireland-themed rock memorabilia restaurant that’s heavy on the U2. Plates here are pricey, but if you’re willing to swing it, head down towards the seats by the window. That way, you’ll have a window to distract you from Sinead O’Connor’s portrait.
At the top of Grafton street on the left. Plates run from €10-17, steaks more. Open M-W noon-10:30pm, Th-Su noon-9 or 10pm-ish.
HANLEY’S CORNISH PASTIES
Dawson St., across from the Mayor’s residence
PASTIES
www.hanleyspasties.com
Serving up hot and fresh Cornish pasties, croissants filled with cheese, meats and veggies, grab one of these for just a few euro and continue moving—they just beg to be eaten on the go.
Coffee available as well. Pastries generally under €5. Veggie and cheese €3.95, cheese, leek and bacon €4.95.
CEDAR TREE LEBANESE RESTAURANT
11 St. Andrew’s St.
LEBANESE
01 677 2121
Offering cheap but delicious lunchtime options such as kafta harra, kibbe sayneih and falafel, this is a good lunchtime spot, with excellent mosaic work on the tables and walls. Complement your meal with Almaza, the Lebanese beer.
Turn off of Suffolk street onto St. Andrews street. Wraps €5.50. Entrees €7.75. Open M-Sa 11:30am-11pm, Su 2pm-10:30pm.
BEWLEY’S ORIENTAL CAFÉ
78-79 Grafton St.
CAFE
01 672 7720 www.bewleys.com
A Grafton Street institution, Bewley’s is something to see in itself. Beautiful stained glass windows by Dublin artist Harry Clark line the downstairs walls, making the place look more cathedral than cafe. If you’re looking for a “cafe’s cafe” then head upstairs, where you can sit out on the tiny balcony overlooking the street. Oh, and did we forget to mention the amazing coffee and extensive dessert section of the menu?
About midway up Grafton St. on the right hand side. Coffee €2-4.50. Lunch €6-16. Open M-Th 7:30am-10pm, F-Sa 7:30am-11pm, Su 7:30am-10pm.
North of O’Connell Street
TESCO
Moland House, Talbot St.
SUPERMARKET
01 887 0980
Don’t feel like going out to eat? Pick up some goods to go at Tesco. There’s also a 24hr. ATM outside that accepts just about any credit card.
Across from the Irish Life shopping mall. Open M-Sa 7am-11pm, Su 8am-10pm.
publin walking tour
The capital of Ireland is known for a few things: James Joyce, brogues, and, of course, brew. For those steadfast enough to tackle a true pub crawl, we’ve consoliated some of the city’s best pubs below. Pace yourself, though.
1. THE DAWSON LOUNGE. Start your pub tour at the Dawson Lounge at 25 Dawson St. This pleasantly traditional pub is the smallest pub in Ireland. What it lacks in size, it makes up for with its robust brews.
2. THE STAG’S HEAD. Next on the itinerary, head to the Stag’s Head at 1 Dame Ct. To get here from Dawson Lounge, head northeast all the way down Grafton St.; take a left onto Wicklow St. and a left onto Exchequer St; take a right onto Dame Ct., and you’re there. Everything’s very Victorian here; and, of course, there’s taxidermy on the wall.
3. PEADAR KEARNEY’S. Once you’ve re-hydrated, soldier onto Peadar Kearney’s, just a couple of blocks from the Stag’s Head. This joint is named for the composer of the Irish National Anthem, and before the night is over, you, too, will be belting that tune.
4. THE BRAZEN HEAD. When you walk out of Peadar’s, take a left and continue west for a few blocks; you’ll stumble upon the Brazen Head at 20 Lower Bridge St., Merchant’s Quay. This establishment, my friends, is Dublin’s oldest bar.
5. THE PORTERHOUSE. It’ll be a bit of a trek, but once you’ve sufficiently shot the breeze (and the shots) with the old chaps at the Brazen Head, head on over to The Porterhouse at 16-18 Parliment St. This place boasts three stouts, three ales, and three lagers. Try some, but not all of them. By this point in the evening, we’re not sure how you’ll be holiding up.
Dorset Street and Drumcondra
THE LOVIN’ SPOON
13 N. Frederick St.
RESTAURANT/CAFE
A small, local place that serves good food fresh, the Lovin’ Spoon isn’t into putting up pretense. Go in, grab your food and keep rolling seems to be the overall attitude here. Sandwiches come in several varieties (€3.60-6), while coffee and juice are also available (€2.20).
Between Parnell Sq. and Dorset St. Open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm.
TESCO
22 Upper Drumcondra Rd.
GROCERY
01 837 7632
For those staying way out in Drumcondra’s boonies, this Tesco is available for your gro
cery shopping.
Open M-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 10am-10pm.
THE TASTY HUT
61 Upper Dorset St.
RESTAURANT
01 8733756
Okay, so the place looks like a dump. Don’t be fooled. Offering cheap late-night grub (both burgers and Indian food), it tastes great. So great you might actually stay to eat it in the restaurant.
Burgers €3.50-5. Indian plates up to €13.50. Open daily noon-4am. Delivery Tu-Su 5pm-midnight, F-Sa 5pm-1am.