Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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Open T-F 11am-5:30pm, Sa 10am-5:30pm.
THE CARBOOT SHOP
Eden Quay
THE QUAYS
www.thecarbootshop.com
best bet for antiques north of the
Right on the river, the Carboot hop is your best bet for antiques north of the Liffey. Bric-a-brac and curio are in abundance. If things look busy, stay away: you may be charged a €1 entrance fee. However, if the shop is empty, enter with the hope of getting a great deal.
Across the brige to the north side, turn right and walk a few blocks. Prices vary. Open M-Sa 11am-6pm.
JOHNSON’S COURT VINTAGE EMPORIUM
12A Johnson’s Ct.
SOUTHWEST OF GRAFTON ST.
01 670 6825
A store full of so many knick-knacks and interesting pieces you’ll wonder how you’re ever going to leave. The owner has a large selection of items from Ireland as well as a significant collection brought in from the rest of Europe.
From Grafton St., follow Johnson St. Open M-Sa 10:30am-5:30pm.
Department Stores
PENNYS DEPARTMENT STORE
O’Connell St.
O’CONNELL ST.
01 656 6666 www.pennys.ie
Imagine if Wal-mart were Irish. Now imagine that it’s good, and even cheaper. Now you’ve got Pennys. This department store chain is beloved in Ireland, and with T-shirts or sneakers from €5, the love is well-deserved. Traveling long? Get yourself some new undies stat (€2-3).
On O’Connell St., just below the GPO. Cheap. Open M-W 8:30am-8pm, Th-F 8:30am-9pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 11am-7pm.
POWERSCOURT CENTRE
59 South William St.
WEST OF GRAFTON ST.
www.powerscourtcentre.com
The “artsy” shopping center, the Powerscourt is the place to go for antiques (there’s a whole wing dedicated to them), as well as painting and photography galleries. Sit down in the café on the ground floor and enjoy the sunshine filtering down through the massive skylight installed over the courtyard.
Take Johnson’s St. right from Grafton and walk 1 block. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su noon-6pm.
ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN SHOPPING CENTRE
At the top of Grafton St.
GRAFTON ST.
01 478 0888 www.stephensgreen.com
A mall offering your usual collection of retail chains (Quiksilver, GameStop, etc.), there’s no real reason to go in here if you’re not shopping, except maybe to observe the incredibly large clock that hangs from the ceiling.
At the top of Grafton St., across from St. Stephen’s Green. Toilet use €.20. Open M-W 9am-7pm, Th 9am-9pm, F-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 11am-6pm.
CLERYS DEPARTMENT STORE
18-27 O’Connell St.
O’CONNELL ST.
01 878 6000 www.clerys.com
Much more your Mom’s store, Clerys doesn’t really hold much appeal for the student traveler. Still, if you’re looking for an easy way to browse for a few hours it has 4 floors of shopping, including a restaurant on the top floor.
Across the street from Pennys. Customer service desk located on the 2nd floor. Open M-W 10am-6:30pm, Th 10am-9pm, F 10am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-7pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: College Green Tourism Office, Dublin’s only independent tourist agency, will help you get a jump on any tour you have in mind. From booking tickets to the Guinness storehouse to reserving your stay for the night, they do it all. However, it’s worth stating that they are a booking service, and while they can answer most of your questions, if you’re looking for information in general you should head over to Dublin Tourism on Suffolk street. (37 College Green, Dublin 2. 01 410 0700 info@daytours.ie Open daily 8:30am-9pm.) To get to Dublin Tourism (O’Connell St. branch), from the river, walk up O’Connell street. It’s on the right. An off-shoot of the Dublin Tourism head offices in the converted St. Andrew’s cathedral, this office offers many of the same services (tour bookings, room reservations and general tourist information), just in slightly more boring building. Tourist gift shop available. (14 O’Connell St. 01 874 6064 visitdublin.com Open M-Sa 9am-5pm.) To get to the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, from college green, walk up Suffolk St. Dublin Tourism will be on your right. The Dublin place to go for information on Belfast and Northern Ireland, they’re also a booking service, and will make you any reservations you require, free of charge. (Inside Dublin Tourism. 01 605 7732 www.discovernorthernireland.com Open Sept-June M-Sa 9am-5:30pm, Su 10:30am-3pm; July-Aug M-Sa 9am-7pm.) Finally, to get to Dublin Tourism, from the college green, walk up Suffolk St. Dublin Tourism will be on your right. Located in a converted church with beautiful arched ceilings and stained glass windows, this may be the only tourist office that’s a sight in itself. The staff are knowledgeable and friendly. Head to the general information desk with broad questions, or head over to one of the many tour companies that have desks in the office. (The former St. Andrew’s church, Suffolk St. 01 605 7700 www.visitdublin.com Open M-Sa 9:30am-5pm, Su 10:30am-3pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: To get to Global Internet Café head over the bridge and on to O’Connell St.; it will be on the right. A nice internet café (and they actually do serve coffee), possibly the best thing about this place is their luggage storage rates. A lot of hassle averted for a little money. (8 Lower O’Connell St. 01 873 9100 www.globalhq.ie Internet: first 20min. €1.45, student €1.30; 20-40min €2.25/2; 40-60min. €2.95/2.65). Luggage storage: 1st day €3.95, each additional day €1.95. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa 9am-9pm, Su 10am-9pm.)
• ATMS: A 24hr. ATM can be found at the bottom of Grafton Street, across Nassau Street from the Molly Malone statue.There are two 24hr. ATMs at the Ulster Bank on Dame street across from the Wax Museum Plus.
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Does paper exchanges as well as card withdrawls. €6000 limit. (1 Westmoreland St. 01 670 6724 Open M-Th 9am-6pm, F-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 10am-6pm.)
• POST OFFICES: To get to Dublin General Post Office, walk up O’Connell St. from the river for 5min., the post office is on the left hand side. At the time of this book’s printing, a museum detailing the 1916 Easter uprising (which took place in front of the Post Office) was scheduled to be opened. Oh, and they send mail too. (O’Connell St., Dublin 1 01 705 7000 www.anpost.ie Open M-Sa 8:30am-6pm.)
• POSTAL CODE: Dublin 1 (General Post Office). Even-numbered codes are for areas south of the Liffey, while odd-numbered codes are for the north.
Emergency!
• PHARMACIES: Hickey’s Pharmacy is up Grafton St. on the left. (21 Grafton St. 679 0467 Open M-Th 8:30am- 8:30pm, F 8:30am-8pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-6pm.) Another branch is on O’Connell St., right after the bridge. It’s the same company as the Grafton St. branch—this one’s just open a little later. (55 Lower O’Connell St. 01 873 0427 www.hickeyspharmacy.ie Prices vary. Open M-F 7:30am-10pm, Sa 8am-10pm, Su 10am-10pm.) Temple Bar Pharmacy (21 Essex St. 670 9751 Open M-W 9:30am-7pm, Th-Sa 9:30am-8pm, Su 1pm-5pm.)
• WOMEN’S ASSISTANCE: Dublin Rape Crisis Center provides a 24 hr. hotline, free counseling, advocacy and legal advice for victims of recent rape or sexual abuse. (70 Lower Leeson St. 24hr. toll-free national hotline 1800 77 8888; office number 661 4911 www.drcc.ie Services are offered free of charge. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 9am-4pm.)
Getting There
By Air
Flights go through Dublin International Airport (www.dublinairport.com; information.queries@daa.ie). The DIA houses desks for several different flight companies, some of which do flight bookings at the desk.
• RYANAIR: Available for last minute changes to your tix, no phone or booking done here. Do that on www.ryanair.com.
• LUFTHANSA: German based airline has both a reservations number and the weirdest hours ever. (01 855 4455 Open daily 5am-7am, 8:15am-12:30pm, 3:30pm-5:30pm.)
• AERARANN: For domestic flights in Ireland. Book online or reserve at the desk. (0818210210 www.aerarann.com Open daily 5:30am-10pm.)
• AERLINGUS: Boo
k flights, change flights, collect excess baggage ( There’s a 20kilo weight limit). Rebooking. (www.aerlingus.com.)
• U.S. AIRWAYS: Rebookings, delayed flights and customer service. (8090925065 www.usairways.com Open daily 7:30am-noon.)
• CONTINENTAL AIRLINES: (189 092 5252 www.continental.com).
• AIRFRANCE: ( 01 605 0383 www.airfrance.ie Open M-F 4am-7:50pm, Sa 4am-5:45pm, Su 4am-7:50pm.)
• DELTA: (1850 088 2031 www.delta.com Open 6am-1pm. May change according to day’s flight schedule.)
By Car
• BUDGET: (01 844 5150 www.budget.ie Open daily 5am-1am.)
• HERTZ: (01 844 5466 www.hertz.ie Open daily 5am-1am.)
• EUROPCAR: (01 844 4199 www.europcar.com Open daily 6am-11pm.)
• SIXT RENT-A-CAR: (01 018 1204 www.sixt.ie Open daily 6am-midnight.)
• AVIS: (01 605 7563 www.avis.ie Open M-F 5am-11:30pm, Sa 5am-11pm, Su 5am-11:30pm.)
Getting Around
By Bus
The price of your bus fare in Dublin depends on how far you’re traveling (listed in stages) and run 1-3 €1.15, 4-7 €1.60, 8-13 €1.80 and over 13 stages €2.20. The “Rambler Pass” allows you to travel on any bus for a set amount of time, is pretty steep, so only buy it if you’re sure to be moving around quite a bit (1 day pass €6, 3 day €13.30, 5 day €20). The buses themselves run all over Dublin. Times vary, but buses can usually be caught every 8-20min. from 6am-8am and every 30min. from 8pm-midnight. (59 O’Connell St. 01 973 4222 www.dublinbus.ie.)
By Taxi
Taxis in Dublin are, much like everything else, expensive. Expect to pay anywhere from €7-10 to get from one destination to another, and more if you’re heading across town. Obey the general rules of foreign taxi travel—ask ahead to find the shortest route to your destination, and then make sure the cabbie follows it. Blue Cabs is the predominant taxi company in Dublin. They offer wheelchair-accessible cabs. Call ahead of time to book. (66/67 Butterly Business Park, Kilmore Rd., Dublin 5 01 802 2222 www.bluecabs.ie.)
There are groups of taxi cabs (called “ranks”) in four neighborhoods in Dublin. In Temple Bar, the ranks can be found on the Aston Quay and on the college green in front of the Wax Museum and Bank of Ireland. In the Grafton Street area, find taxis near the intersection of Dawson and Duke St. (on Harry St., off the top of Grafton St. and to the right). Next, in the Viking/Medieval area of town, pick up taxis on Christchurch Pl. across the street from the Christchurch Cathedral. Finally, a rank can be found north of O’Connell Street on Eden Quay just to the right of the O’Connell Monument, in the median of O’Connell St. just south of the Parnell Monument, and on Sackville Pl., (walk ¼ of the way up O’Connell St. and turn right).
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT : Required for citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the US.
• VISA: Required for citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the US only for stays of longer than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT : Required for all foreigners planning to work in Ireland.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Ireland is on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that it is 5hr. ahead of New York City, 8hr. ahead of Los Angeles, 10hr. behind Sydney, and 11hr. behind New Zealand (note that Australia observes Daylight Savings Time from October to March, the opposite of the Northern Hemispheres—therefore, it is 9hr. ahead of Britain from March to October and 11hr. ahead from October to March, for an average of 10hr.).
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Tips in restaurants are often included in the bill (sometimes as a “service charge”). If gratuity is not included, you should tip your server about 12.5%. Taxi drivers should receive a 10% tip, and bellhops and chambermaids usually expect £1-3. To the great relief of many budget travelers, tipping is not expected at pubs and bars in Ireland. Bargaining is generally unheard of in shops.
Taxes
Ireland has a 21% value added tax (VAT), a sales tax applied to everything but food, books, medicine, and children’s clothing. The tax is included in the amount indicated on the price tag. The prices stated in Let’s Go include VAT. Upon exiting Ireland, non-EU citizens can reclaim VAT (minus an administrative fee) through the Retail Export Scheme, although the complex procedure is probably only worthwhile for large purchases. You can obtain refunds only for goods you take out of the country (not for accommodations or meals). Participating shops display a “Tax-Free Shopping” sign and may have a minimum purchase of £50-100 before they offer refunds. To claim a refund, fill out the form you are given in the shop, and present it with the goods and receipts at customs upon departure (look for the Tax-Free Refund desk at the airport). At peak times, this process can take up to an hour. You must leave the country within three months of your purchase in order to claim a refund, and you must apply before leaving Ireland.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Specific Concerns
Pre-Departure Health
Matching a prescription to a foreign equivalent is not always easy, safe, or possible, so if you take prescription drugs, carry up-to-date prescriptions or a statement from your doctor stating the medications’ trade names, manufacturers, chemical names, and dosages. Be sure to keep all medication with you in your carry-on luggage.
Immunizations and Precautions
Travelers over two years old should make sure that the following vaccines are up to date: MMR (for measles, mumps, and rubella); DTaP or Td (for diphtheria, tetanus, and pertussis); IPV (for polio); Hib (for Haemophilus influenzae B); and HepB (for Hepatitis B). For recommendations on immunizations and prophylaxis, check with a doctor and consult the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in the US or the equivalent in your home country. (1 800 CDC INFO/232 4636 www.cdc.gov/travel)
Staying Healthy
Diseases and Environmental Hazards
Common sense is the simplest prescription for good health while you travel. Drink lots of fluids to prevent dehydration and constipation, and wear sturdy, broken-in shoes and clean socks. When in areas of high altitude, be sure to dress in layers that can be peeled off as needed. Allow your body a couple of days to adjust to decreased oxygen levels before exerting yourself. Note that alcohol is more potent and UV rays are stronger at high elevations.
Many diseases are transmitted by insects—mainly mosquitoes, fleas, ticks, and lice. Be aware of insects in wet or forested areas, especially while hiking and camping. Wear long pants and long sleeves, tuck your pants into your socks, and use a mosquito net. Use insect repellents such as DEET and soak or spray your gear with permethrin (licensed in the US only for use on clothing). Mosquitoes—responsible for malaria, dengue fever, and yellow fever—can be particularly abundant in wet, swampy, or wooded areas. Ticks—which can carry Lyme and other diseases—can be particularly dangerous in rural and forested regions of Britain.
ireland 101
FOOD AND DRINK
Grublin
Irish food can be fairly expensive, especially in cities and in restaurants. The basics—and that’s what you’ll get—are simple and filling. Quick and greasy staples are chippers (fish n’ chip shops) and takeaways (takeout joints). At chippers, “fish” is a whitefish, usually cod, and chips are served with salt and vinegar; ketchup sometimes costs extra. Fried food delicacies include chips with gravy, potato cakes (pancakes made of potato flakes), or the spiceburger (fried patty of spiced breadcrumbs). Most pubs serve food and pub grub is a good option for a cheap but substantial meal. Typical pub grub includes Irish stew (meat, potatoes, carrots, and onions), burgers, soup, sandwiches.
Most Irish meals are based on a simple formula: meat, potatoes, and greens. Prepar
ation usually involves frying or boiling. Colcannon (a potato, onion, and cabbage dish), “ploughman’s lunch,” and Irish stew are Irish specialties. Loud and long will Irish bards sing the praises of the Clonakilty man who first concocted black pudding. As one local butcher put it, this dish consists of, “some pork, a good deal of blood, some grains and things—all wrapped up in a tube.” Irish breakfasts, often served all day and given at any B and B, include eggs, sausage, porridge, rashers (a more thickly sliced version of American bacon), a fried tomato, brown bread, and toast.
A true culinary merit of the Irish is their bread. Most famous is soda bread: heavy, white, sweetened by raisins, and especially yummy when fried. Most common are brown bread and batch loaves. The brown stuff is thick and grainy, while batch loaves are square-shaped, white, and ideal for sandwiches.