CAMPING JOLLY
V. Giuseppe de Marchi 7
CAMPING
041 92 03 12 www.ecvacanze.it
This is a place to stay if you want to say you came to Venice but actually spend your whole trip partying on the Italian mainland. It takes about 45min. to get from Camping Jolly to Venice proper, so don’t pop your tent here if you want to be in the city. Instead, come here for the nice pool, awesome bar, tons of backpackers, and a DJ who seems to love Kanye West. Lots of people think that traveling is a lost art in the age of the internet, but dancing to Thriller with backpackers from Japan, some hair-metal fans from Germany, and a pair of Italian bartenders is a great reminder of what it can be when done right.
There are several ways to get to Camping Jolly. The best route from Venice is to take bus #6 from the train station toward Marghera, get off at V. Paleocapa, turn onto V. Beccaria, and continue for about 10min. until you reach V. Della Fonte. Turn right onto V. Della Fonte and continue until the street ends. You’ll see an outdoor park/sports complex. Follow the walkway along the park until you reach an underpass. Go through the underpass, and you will emerge at Camping Jolly. 1- to 3-person tents €12.50; bungalows (up to 3 people) €39-58.50; casa mobile (up to 4 people) €60-79 ; chalet (up to 5 people) €84-116.
SIGHTS
An incredible number of churches, museums, palaces, and historic sights line Venice’s canals—you could easily spend a month in the city and still be stumbling across new places to check out on a daily basis. If you’re planning to spend any time sightseeing here, you should seriously consider purchasing the Rolling Venice Card (available at any IAT/VAT Tourist office for €4), a tourist pass for visitors to the city between the ages of 14 and 29 which provides unlimited use of ACTV public transit, free admission to the Civic Museums of Venice, free admission to the churches that are a member of the Chorus Pass collective, reduced admission at any number of other sights, and discounts at various hotels and restaurants.
San Marco
It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the number of sights in San Marco. In fact, before you even head out into the wider neighborhood, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the number of sights in Piazza San Marco alone. In the piazza, the two main attractions, Basilica di San Marco and Palazzo Ducale, are found easily enough, but several other sights of great interest are often overlooked by visitors. In the wider sestiere closer to Rialto Bridge, for example, attractions like the excellent Palazzo Grassi await. Perhaps most importantly, before braving this area be sure to meditate for a couple of minutes, have a glass of Venetian wine, pop a couple of Xanax, or do whatever else is necessary to prepare yourself for the jostling, shoving, elbowing, shouting, and general rudeness that crops up as inevitably in the heart of La Serenissima as it does in any overcrowded tourist area. Once you’ve done that, you’ll be ready to experience one of the densest concentrations of spectactular sights in the whole of Europe.
PALAZZO DUCALE
P. San Marco 1
MUSEUM
041 27 15 911 www.museiciviciveneziani.it
This massive palace that served as the residence of Venice’s pseudo-monarchical mayor and the seat of his government throughout most of Venetian history is, perhaps, the best showcase of Venetian history, art, and architecture you’ll find in a single building. Unfortunately, it has lost much of its character in recent years as it has increasingly sought to traffic as many visitors as possible through its exhibits with the most minimal inconvenience. Unlike the serene Accademia or Guggenheim Museum, where it’s possible to move leisurely through the galleries and follow no particular path, the Palazzo Ducale poses challenges to those who would like to meander through its halls, as numerous guided tours block hallways and crowd some of the museum’s most famous attractions. For the best way to see the Palazzo, rent a handheld audio tour (€5) or stop by the the museum shop to purchase a guide before you enter. Then, proceed at your own pace. While there are many bottlenecks in some of the more famous rooms, where guides tend to linger, if you time things well, you should be able to evade clusters of tourists while still managing to see everything. And there is a remarkable amount to see, from Sansovino’s statues in the courtyard to Veronese’s Rape of Europa.
Every room open to the public is worth visiting, and Let’s Go recommends allowing yourself to wander through the Palazzo, spending more time in the rooms that are of particular interest to you. If you decide to go all-in and read about the history of every room, you could easily spend 4hr. in the place, but in any case, budget at least 90min. for your visit. No visit to the Palazzo Ducale can be complete without seeing Tintoretto’s Paradise, an impossibly massive oil painting with strongly religious themes that gives the Great Council Room an ominous, foreboding air. The numerous exhibitions in the Doge’s Apartments, including the Doge’s private libraries and dining room, should prove fascinating to anyone with an interest in Venetian history or high culture. Surprisingly, one of the least crowded sections of the palace is the area containing the Bridge of Sighs and prisons, which constitute an extensive labyrinth throughout the lower eastern side of the palace and provide stark contrast to the opulence and majesty of the floors above.
Entrance to the Palazzo Ducale is along the water front. Apr 1-Oct 31 €13, students ages 18-25, ages 6-14, over 65, and holders of the Rolling Venice card €7.50; Nov 1-Mar 31 €12/6.50. Open daily June-Oct 8:30am-6:30pm; Nov-March 9am-6pm; Apr-May 9am-7pm. Ticket office closes 1hr. before museum.
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
P. San Marco
CHURCH
041 27 08 311 www.basilicasanmarco.it
This basilica is maybe the top “can’t miss” sight in all of Venice, and not just because admission is free. Lines to the Basilica are often long, but don’t be deterred. Visitors rarely spend more than 15min. inside the Basilica, so even if you’re behind a few hundred people, it shouldn’t take more than a wait of 20min. or so for you to enter what is universally considered the most impressive church in Venice. If you’re planning a day in P. San Marco, either go to the Basilica first thing in the morning before it is crowded or mid-afternoon when light streams in through the windows and provides some of the most striking natural illumination you’ll find anywhere in the world.
Even before you enter the church, you cannot help but be struck by its size and intricate design. Spend a few minutes admiring the basilica’s facade, overlooked by far too many visitors. It is every bit as impressive as the inside’s soaring domes, marble inlay, and gorgeous golden mosaics that acquire an eerie life-like quality in the proper lighting. The majesty of the church is a testament to the history of Venice, as the Basilica di San Marco dates back to the origins of the city. Founded in the ninth century by two Venetian merchants who daringly stole St. Mark’s remains from the city of Alexandria and smuggled them past Arab officials by hiding them in a case of pork meat, the church was originally a much smaller, more modest wooden building that suffered serious damage during a fire in the 11th century. Venice, emerging as a powerful city state, dedicated substantial time, effort, and funding to the construction of the new Basilica di San Marco, which was further embellished as the Republic of Venice rose in stature. Today, it stands more or less as it was completed in the 17th century. The church’s interior is clearly the product of the various cultural influences that have affected the Venetian identity, seamlessly incorporating Byzantine, Roman, and Northern European influences into an interior that is simultaneously ostentatious in its gilded excess and mysterious in the dark, rich detail of its altars and mosaics.
Though admission to the Basilica is free, those interested in further exploration of the remarkable building’s history will have to pay extra to see its three affiliated sights: the Pala d’Oro, treasury, and St. Mark’s Museum. Anyone intrigued by the Byzantine influences in the Basilica should take a few minutes to appreciate the Pala d’Oro, an altar retable that is widely regarded as one of the most spectacular intact examples of Byzantine artwork. A visual histo
ry of the life of Saint Mark, the Pala d’Oro was meticulously designed with thousands of precious gemstones adorning what is certainly one of the most breathtaking pieces of religious artwork you’ll see anywhere in Italy. The treasury houses various precious objects of religious significance, a collection that anyone with an interest in the history of the Basilica will enjoy exploring even if it includes a small fraction of the number of artifacts it featured prior to the Napoleonic invasions. St. Mark’s Museum helps to contextualize the Basilica and is a great primer in Venetian history for anyone with a short stop in Venice. Nevertheless, visiting the museum isn’t essential to appreciating the astounding beauty of the Basilica, which is the main attraction here.
Entrance on east side of P. San Marco, north of Palazzo Ducale. Modest dress required—no bare shoulders or revealing skirts or shorts. Basilica free. St. Mark’s Museum €4. Pala d’Oro €2. Treasury €3. All prices reduced 50% for groups of 15 or more. Basilica open Easter-Nov M-Sa 9:45am-5pm, Su 2-5pm; Nov-Easter M-Sa 9:45am-5pm, Su 2-4pm. Pala d’Oro and treasury open Easter-Nov M-Sa 9:45am-5pm, Su 2-5pm; Nov-Easter M-Sa 9:45am-4pm, Su 2-4pm. Museum open daily 9:45am-4:45pm.
PALAZZO GRASSI
Campo San Samuele 3231
MUSEUM
041 52 31 680 www.palazzograssi.it
A highbrow museum of contemporary art that’s not afraid to laugh at itself, Palazzo Grassi is at once entertaining and refreshing. Sponsored by François Pinault and affiliated with the Punta della Dogana museum in Dorsoduro, Palazzo Grassi features artwork in numerous media from prominent contemporary artists such as Matthew Day Jackson, Cy Twobly, and Jeff Koons. The Palazzo’s signature piece is a series of canvases that constitute a visual interpretation of events in Japanese history. Created by Takashi Murakami over the course of six years, the work was initiated at the behest of Pinault for installation specifically in this gallery. Even if you aren’t familiar with modern art, there are enough pieces in enough media here that something is bound to interest, challenge, or even just amuse you. Unlike other sights in Venice, Palazzo Grassi doesn’t shy away from self-parody. This is exemplified in Rob Pruitt’s “101 Artistic Ideas,” a work featured in the Mapping the Studio exhibition. Some of Pruitt’s ideas have been put into practice throughout the museum. You might think you’ve seen every imaginable take on the Renaissance fresco after a few days in Venice, but until you’ve seen Idea #72 (“Put googly eyes on things”) put in practice on a priceless 17th-century mural, you really don’t know what you’re missing. Palazzo Grassi’s sense of humor makes its collections more accessible to those with a casual interest in artwork, as do the frequent events that the museum hosts to introduce visitors to prominent artists and the artistic process. Such events seek to contradict, defy, and critique notions about art while maintaining a certain levity that gives the museum its welcoming, cheeky character.
Follow the signs to Palazzo Grassi/Palazzo Fortuny from anywhere in San Marco. If coming from the Rialto Bridge, continue along the streets running parallel to the Grand Canal, staying near the Canal, until you see signs directing you toward Palazzo Grassi. Palazzo Grassi is also immediately adjacent to vaporetto stops S. Samuele (line 2) and S. Angelo (line 1). €15, with affiliated Punta della Dogana in Dorsoduro €20. Open M 10am-7pm, W-Su 10am-7pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
PIAZZA SAN MARCO
P. San Marco
SQUARE
Indisputably the most important square in Venice and home to many of the city’s most important historical and cultural attractions, P. San Marco is a study in contrasts. Chaotic despite its spectacular views of Venice’s serene lagoon, this dignified, historical home of Venetian government is now overrun by tour groups of texting teenagers and foreigners who chase pigeons for amusement. In this way, P. San Marco encapsulates both the best and worst of Venice. When you stand in the square, you’re only moments from the Basilica di San Marco, the Campanile, the Palazzo Ducale, Saint Mark’s Clock Tower, and almost half a dozen notable museums. You’re also just a few steps away from Venice’s most upscale shopping and dining establishments, which draw visitors from all over the world. Though not without its high-end attractions, the piazza has mass appeal as well, with occasional street performers, numerous salesmen offering knock-off designer goods, gelato galore, and the infamous pigeons who have given rise to an industry of their own. Shrewd locals sell stale bread to tourists who want to feed the birds. The boldest (or dumbest) of these avian-loving visitors cover themselves in bread so as to attract dozens of the flying scourge to roost on them. (Why anyone would want pigeons sitting on their shoulders is a mystery.) It takes a rare disposition to appreciate the piazza at its chaotic midsummer peak. It is best to visit early in the morning or late at night, when the Piazza evokes memories of a time before Venice had become one of the world’s tourist capitals. In recent years, the Piazza has been known to flood at high tide, so when you are ready to soak up San Marco’s old-world glamour, make sure to leave those new Ferragamo pumps you just bought at home.
This is possibly the only place in Venice that isn’t hard to find. Free.
a chorus of churches
For a small city, Venice sure has a lot of churches—a lot of very memorable ones that are worth your time, too. Most of them charge €3 for entry, though, which might make you ask if they’re worth your money. Eliminate this calculation, however, with the Chorus Pass, which can be purchased for €10 and grants unlimited entry to participating churches (there are 18 of them) for a year. Buy it at participating churches and then feel free to wander in and out as much as you wish: it won’t cost you another cent (unless the collection plate comes around).
CAMPANILE
P. San Marco
TOWER
041 27 08 311 www.basilicasanmarco.it
One of the most prominent buildings in P. San Marco, the Campanile is undeniably the dominant fixture of the Venetian skyline—so much so that in 1997, a group of separatists advocating the political division of Italy decided to storm the tower to proclaim their message from its heights. The incident, which marked the 200-year anniversary of the end of the Venetian Republic, is one of the tower’s few claims to legitimate historical significance, since the original (completed in 1514) spontaneously collapsed in 1902. Remarkably, given the size and central location of the tower, no one was killed during the collapse, and the reconstruction of the tower was completed a decade later. The Campanile has a fully functioning elevator capable of taking over two dozen people to the top of the tower, from which you can enjoy fantastic views of the city. Unfortunately, it’s a complete tourist trap, since access to the lift costs €8 and usually requires a substantial wait. Most visitors, at least those without a political message to proclaim from the heights of the tower, will likely be content to admire the simple brick structure of the Campanile from ground level.
In P. San Marco. Entrance and lift access €8. Open daily July-Sept 9am-9pm; Oct 9am-7pm; Nov-Easter 9:30am-3:45pm; Easter-June 9am-7pm.
Cannaregio
To get the most out of Cannaregio, take the locals’ advice and treat your stay here as an opportunity to experience the real Venetian lifestyle rather than as a time for sight-seeing. Most of the notable attractions in the neighborhood are churches which hold architectural as well as religious interest, but the two can’t-miss destinations in Cannaregio are the Ca’ d’Oro and the Jewish Ghetto.
CA’ D’ORO
Strada Nova 3932
041 52 00 345 www.cadoro.org
A truly Venetian institution, this palace of a few centuries ago now houses one of the most impressive art collections in the region. Comprised of works dating from the city’s earliest days, the museum’s assortment of art is surprisingly extensive, easily meriting a visit of 2 or 3hr. The ex-palazzo’s architecture rivals the art for splendor, as do the views of Venice (perhaps the best you’ll find) from the museum’s balconies. All of these aesthetic delights make the somewhat pricey tickets (€6.50) well worth the expense, even if you�
��re not that into art. Plus, you’ll be able to tell your parents of at least one high-culture experience you had while you were in Italy. Ah, la dolce vita.
Going east on Strada Nova, find the Ca’ d’Oro on the right immediately before reaching Calle della Testa. Bookshop and Loggias only accessible by staircase. €6.50, EU citizens 18-25 €3.25, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open M 8:15am-2pm, Tu-Su 8:15am-7:15pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
THE JEWISH GHETTO
Sestiere di Cannaregio 1146,Campo di Ghetto Nuovo
041 71 50 12 www.moked.it/jewishvenice
Stepping into Venice’s Jewish Ghetto, the first neighborhood in the world to bear a title that has now become so ubiquitous that suburban teens questionably use it to describe their two-year-old cell phones, will give you a taste of what this part of the city was like a few centuries ago. Much of the ghetto’s original architecture has been preserved, including several synagogues. Although you’ll be able to see the buildings of Venice’s past, don’t expect to witness any Shylock-ian angst—unlike residents who lived here in the 16th century, today’s inhabitants of the ghetto are not forced here by government edict. The area remains uniquely Jewish, however, with strong Israeli and Italian-Jewish influences. Many of the signs in this section of Cannaregio are written in Hebrew as well as Italian.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 140