Across the Guglie Bridge going northeast, turn left onto Fondamenta Pescheria, walk 1 block and turn onto Ghetto Vecchio.
CHIESA DEI GESUITI
Campo dei Gesuiti
Duck into Chiesa dei Gesuiti and be rewarded by the impressive art it contains, including an original work by Titian. Gesuiti was built later (by Venetian standards) than many other churches in Cannaregio, so a visit here will give you a sense of what was hip and happenin’ back in the 18th century. Cannaregio’s ’s streets are dotted with churches, but if you only have time for one holy encounter, make a beeline for Gesuiti.
From Sestiere Cannaregio, going east, turn right onto Campo del Gesuiti. Open M-Sa 10am-noon and 4-6pm.
San Polo
Though a small neighborhood, San Polo has several sights that are well worth visiting. In addition to the Rialto Bridge and the area immediately surrounding it, several nearby churches and museums count among Venice’s most rewarding destinations.
RIALTO BRIDGE
Over the Grand Canal
BRIDGE
Even before the Rialto Bridge, or Ponte di Rialto, was built in 1591, its site at the intersection of four of Venice’s six sestiere (San Marco, Canareggio, San Polo, and Castello, to be precise) served as a major point of transfer among Venice’s islands. In the 12th century, construction began on a series of bridges to accommodate pedestrian traffic across the Grand Canal, but as trade in the Republic of Venice continued to expand, the need for a permanent structure that wouldn’t interfere with boat traffic became apparent. Though numerous famous Italian artists of the day were considered, ultimately Antonio da Ponte directed the project, deciding on the controversial stone construction that has become a Venetian trademark. The bridge today stands in essentially the same form in which da Ponte designed it, with three lanes of pedestrian traffic divided by two narrow lanes of shops, and it continues to be a center of shopping and dining for Venetian locals and tourists. With glass shops, stores stocked with souvenirs, athletic apparel sellers, trendy boutiques, and haute couture, the shopping options on the Rialto Bridge offer something for almost anyone. Those who grow tired of browsing should enjoy the vantage point from the bridge’s high point, which affords the city’s best view of the Grand Canal. Facing north, you’ll be able to see some of Venice’s best-preserved palazzi, while facing south you’re sure to be graced with breathtaking visions of the San Marco and San Polo waterfront and gondolas docked along the canal. Those seeking the perfect picture of the bridge should head south on San Marco from the Rialto Bridge, cross two smaller waterfront bridges, and then take a snapshot that captures Rialto’s entire span.
From anywhere in the city, follow the bright yellow signs that say Per Rialto and you will eventually make it to the bridge.
FRARI
Campo dei Frari 3072
CHURCH
041 52 22 637 www.basilicadeifrari.it
From the outside, Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari might look like it belongs more in the industrial section of Giudecca than in the pantheon of Venice’s great churches, but if you make it inside this rough, foreboding brick structure you’ll be awestruck by one of the city’s largest and most spectacular churches. Second only to the Basilica di San Marco in size, the Frari houses numerous notable works by famous artists such as Bellini and Titian as well as remarkably well-preserved wooden seating that once cradled the bottoms of Venetian nobility and several spectacular mausoleums dedicated to the church’s early patrons. The church is large enough to have several smaller rooms that function as museums of the church history and house frescoes, stonework, and historical golden artifacts. Unlike most churches in Venice, which can take just a couple of minutes for the typical tourist to enjoy, it can take an hour to fully appreciate the artistic subtleties of the Frari. The numerous altars are all masterpieces in their own rights, while the mausoleums are a spectacular display of Venice’s artistic prowess as well as the egotism and incredible wealth that characterized the city’s elite throughout most of its history. Though the church is a spectacular sight to visit at any time of day, try to make it near opening or closing, when there are fewer tour groups around. At these times, every footstep that hits the church’s stone floor can be heard echoing under its towering arches, and its serene beauty can be best appreciated.
V: Campo San Tomà. Proceed straight until you reach a T intersection, turn right, make the 1st left, and continue to the square; the entrance to the church is immediately ahead. €2.50, with Chorus Pass free. Audio tour €2. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 1-6pm.
SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO
Campo di San Rocco 3054
MUSEUM
041 52 34 864 www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it
Home to some of Tintoretto’s greatest works as well as canvases by Titian, Scuola Grande di San Rocco is not as extensive as many other galleries in Venice, but its works are every bit as impressive. Originally designed as a place for laypersons of the Catholic faith to meet and promote various acts of religious piety, the Scuola has been preserved primarily as an art museum, and though the displays are small, the collection is well-organized and quite accessible to visitors. Anyone who has spent hours craning their necks to admire paintings on the ceilings of Venetian museums, palazzi, and churches will appreciate the mirrors provided for examining Tintoretto’s magnificent religious scenes painted on the second-floor ceiling.
From Campo dei Frari, walk to the west end of the church, turn right, and follow the signs north toward San Rocco. The school is on the left. €7, students €5, under 18 €3. Open daily 9:30am-5:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
CAMPO SAN POLO
Campo San Polo
PIAZZA
As Venice’s second-largest public square—you may have heard of the largest, Piazza San Marco—Campo San Polo is the default winner of the award for largest Venetian square that doesn’t spend half its time under a flood of seawater or tourist traffic. It’s also home to some of the city’s most important events, including outdoor concerts, screenings for the Venice Film Festival, and numerous pre-Lenten festivities during Carnevale. During major events, the square is transformed from a quiet, open space housing a few street vendors and gelato stands into the Venetian equivalent of an amphitheater, packed with tourists and locals enjoying some of the best partying Venice has to offer. Even if there aren’t any major events going on in Campo San Polo while you’re visiting Venice, this historic square deserves a visit. Formerly the site of bullfights and religious services, the square is now quiet most days and home to several small restaurants and cafes. It’s worth spending some time looking at San Polo’s historic buildings, including the Palazzo Tiepolo Passi, a 16th-century palace that has been converted into a hotel, and the Chiesa di San Polo, which houses several works by Giovanni Tiepolo.
From the Rialto Bridge, walk through the markets along Ruga dei Oresi, turn left onto Rughetta del Ravano, continue for approximately 4min., and you’ll arrive at Campo San Polo.
Santa Croce
MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
Santa Croce 1730
MUSEUM
041 27 50 206 www.museiciviciveneziani.it
Venice’s Museum of Natural History is one of those rare museums that can be as much fun for adults as it is for children. Unlike many Venetian museums, which house great collections that are presented devoid of context in empty palazzi, the Museum of Natural History almost seems like a museum of modern art when you first enter. Fossils hewn into simulated archaeological sites rather than housed in glass cases successfully draw the visitor more into the museum experience. Rooms detailing the history of earlier life forms build up the ambience with judicious use of theatrical lighting, while the quiet primordial soundtrack is as entertaining on its own as anything the museum houses. A full visit to the museum takes 30-60min. and may take even less time for visitors who aren’t able to read Italian, since information about the exhibits is displayed in only the one language.
V: San Stae. Cont
inue down Salizada San Stae, make the 1st right that leads to a bridge, continue straight across 2 bridges, then make the 2nd right, and continue until you reach the museum. It will be difficult to find, but if you follow the signs to Fontego dei Turchi, you will get there. €4.50, students ages 15-25, ages 6-14, over 65, and holders of the Rolling Venice Card €3, under 6 and holders of the Civic Museums pass free. Open W 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
CA’ PESARO
Santa Croce 2070
MUSEUM
041 72 11 27 www.museiciviciveneziani.it
Though in most cities Ca’ Pesaro would be deserving of a thumbpick, the otherwise spectacular museum is just one of many impressive modern and contemporary art collections in Venice. This museum features an interesting mix of paintings and sculpture—mostly from the late 19th and early 20th centuries—that chronicles the development of modern art as a transnational movement. As one of Venice’s more famous art museums, Ca’ Pesaro has the added advantage of hosting frequent temporary exhibitions, which generally feature pieces from the mid- to late 19th century and tend to be more lowbrow, general-interest affairs than the more esoteric exhibits in its permanent collection. Even those left unimpressed by the art can still marvel at the palazzo’s intact ceilings, which far too many visitors miss completely. Others may explore the second floor’s gallery of East Asian artwork. Though this exhibit is not nearly as well-presented as the first floor’s modern art gallery, the assemblage of Japanese ornamental weaponry accompanied by informational videos about the extensive decorating process is far different from anything else you’ll find in Venice.
V : San Stae. Exit the church square left (facing away from the Grand Canal), cross the 1st bridge possible, continue straight, make the 1st possible left, and you should see the entrance to the museum. There will also be signs indicating the direction toward the museum. €6.50, students ages 15-25, ages 6-14, over 65, and holders of the Rolling Venice Card €4, under 6 and holders of the Civic Museums pass free. Open Tu-Su Apr-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-Mar 10am-5pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
Dorsoduro
THE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
Dorsoduro 704
MUSEUM
041 24 05 411 www.guggenheim.org
When you walk into a museum and the first room features works by Miró, Picasso, Dalí, and Magritte, you know it’s exceptional. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is a great museum to visit, both for art aficionados and for those who think of karate-kicking turtles when they hear the names of Leonardo, Michelangelo, Donatello, and Raphael. The collection is a relatively small one that includes notable works from almost every major movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It is comprised of works that notable traveler Guggenheim collected during her lifetime, and thus contains pieces that hail from all over Europe and the Americas. Her assortment of artwork emphasizes the international character of art produced during this period while retaining a certain Venetian flair: a substantial number of works are by Venetian and Italian artists. Even if you have no interest in artwork, the palazzo itself is well worth the price of admission. Its immaculately maintained gardens and house make it one of the most beautiful palazzi in all of Venice.
From Santa Maria della Salute, follow the signs west towards the Guggenheim Museum for approximately 4min. €12, students €7, seniors €10. Open M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:45pm.
SANTA MARIA DELLA SALUTE
Campo della Salute
CHURCH
041 52 25 558
Don’t make the mistake of contenting yourself with views of Santa Maria della Salute across the water from P. San Marco. While the vision of the sun setting behind the church is incredible, the sanctuary itself is just as impressive—and equally free to enjoy. Santa Maria della Salute, built between 1631 and 1687, was intended to be an homage to the Virgin Mary, who many Venetians believed was capable of protecting them from the ravages of the plague. Since 1629 marked the last great outbreak of the plague in Venice, it is unclear whether the church’s construction did anything to end the spread of the disease. Regardless, the church stands today as an architectural and aesthetic wonder, with its innovative dome remaining perhaps the most recognizable sight in Venice. Paintings by Tintoretto and Titian highlight the interior of the church, which also features numerous statues, arches, columns, and altars that have led some to call Santa Maria della Salute the most beautiful church in Venice.
From the Ponte dell’Accademia, turn left and continue to the eastern tip of Dorsoduro (approximately 6-8min.). Open daily 9am-noon and 3-5:30pm.
PUNTA DELLA DOGANA
Fondamenta della Dogana alla Salute 2
MUSEUM
041 52 31 680 www.palazzograssi.it
A new museum by the über-chic François Pinault, the Punta della Dogana-Palazzo Grassi complex is an absolute must-see for anyone with an interest in contemporary art. Simultaneously more interactive, more accessible, and more intimidating than any conventional art museum, Punta della Dogana features artwork that is visceral, graphic, and that blurs the distinctions between low and high art—even in a country famed for its Renaissance celebration of the human form, you’d be hard-pressed to find a museum with more phallic representations. A great complement to the collection of earlier works found in the Accademia and the assortment of modernist art featured in the Guggenheim, Punta della Dogana’s collection of contemporary art is one of the most impressive in Italy. Due to the combined entry fee, it is especially worth seeing if you also plan to check out the Palazzo Grassi in San Marco.
From the Ponte dell’Accademia, turn left and continue to the eastern tip of Dorsoduro for 6-8min. €15, with affiliated Palazzo Grassi in San Marco €20. Open M 10am-7pm, W-Su 10am-7pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
THE ACCADEMIA
Campo della Carità
MUSEUM
041 52 00 345 www.gallerieaccademia.org
Venice’s premier museum for pre-19th-century art, the Accademia is currently undergoing extensive renovations that limit the number of vistors it can accommodate daily. These renovations have also changed the museum layout, but the Accademia still remains chock-full of important Italian art. Unlike the Peggy Guggenheim Collection or Punta della Dogana, which feature relatively few works, the Accademia is home to a substantial collection that will likely leave most casual visitors overwhelmed. Nonetheless, there are several truly awe-inspiring works to be found in its hallways, and there is perhaps no better place than the Accademia to enjoy Venice from an artistic perspective, as many of the works featured represent scenes and sights that will be familiar to travelers who have already spent a few days in the city.
Immediately across the Ponte dell’Accademia from San Marco. €6.50, EU citizens 18-25 €3.25, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open M 8:15am-2pm, Tu-Su 8:15am-7:15pm.
Lido
Once the world’s most popular beach resort, Lido is largely forgotten by the 20 million travelers who visit Venice annually. Though the island’s beautiful and historic hotels still fill up each summer, it’s now a quiet counterpart to the city center rather than the main draw for international travelers. As a result, visitors to the island can enjoy scenic bike rides along the coastline, strolls along gorgeous tree-lined streets, and sun-bathing spots on one of its eastern coast’s pristine (if occasionally crowded) beaches—all without too much trouble. Since the vaporetto #1 line regularly makes stops at the island, and frequent ferries run from Piazzale Roma, the seeming wall between Lido and the city center is more of a psychological barrier than anything else. If you’re in San Marco or eastern Castello, you can easily make a quick 3hr. trip to Lido and see a lot of the island without difficulty.
GRAND VIALE
Grand Viale
PROMENADE
This famous promenade cuts from eastern Lido—with its majestic hotels and fine restaurants—to the western portion of the island, where you’ll find miles of sandy shoreline, gorgeous beach resorts, and the glamorous theaters and hotels th
at support Lido’s annual film festival. A walk along the Grand Viale can take as little as 15min. or as long as several hours, depending on how intent you are on enjoying the sights. Since Lido was largely uninhabited until the 20th century, it lacks the grandly historic character that distinguishes Venice, but you’d never mistake it for a Hawaiian or Caribbean resort community. Walking along the Grand Viale, you’ll experience Lido as a resort town worthy of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel, with beautiful hotels that feature towering columns, breathtaking mosaic facades, and a spectacularly anachronistic sense of Old World aristocracy. If you make it to the eastern side of the island and turn right onto Lungomare Gabriele D’Annuzio, you’ll see what may be Lido’s most impressive sight, the grandiose and slightly preposterous Grand Hotel des Bains (the setting of Thoman Mann’s novella Death in Venice), which still annually hosts the most impressive gathering of celebrities this side of Cannes during Venice’s own film festival.
From dock Santa Maria Elizabetta, walk straight ahead. The Grand Viale runs east-west.
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