SUZIE CAFE
Dorsoduro 1527
CAFE
041 52 27 502 www.suziecafevenice.com
With tons of classic-rock memorabilia, highlighted by a sweet guitar boasting half a dozen signatures on its body, Suzie Cafe distinguishes itself from other snack bars and cafes with both great food and high-personality decor. You could spend weeks in Venice without finding a better place to sit down and enjoy an €8 meal.
V: Zattere. Turn left; walk 5-7min. to end of Zattere, turn right, and continue for 2-3min.; the snack bar is in the corner of a square. Sandwiches and light meals €4-11. Open M-Th 7am-8pm, F 7am-1am.
RISTORANTE AI GONDOLIERI
San Vio 366
RISTORANTE
041 52 86 396 www.aigondolieri.com
An upscale restaurant that is famous for its catering, having hosted multiple events for the nearby Guggeneheim Museum, Ristorante Ai Gondolieri is a great place to take a date after a day of visiting art galleries. Although Ai Gondolieri can be expensive, especially if you order a bottle off of their extensive wine list, the quality is proportionate to the price.
From Santa Maria della Salute, walk east towards the Guggenheim, past the museum; when you reach the bend in the canal, the restaurant will be immediately across the water. Entrees €11.50-32. Open M noon-3:30pm and 7-10:30pm, W-Su noon-3:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
IL DOGE
Campo San Margherita 3058
GELATERIA
041 52 34 607
Sure, there are gelato places on pretty much every street corner in Venice, but Il Doge is unique. It doesn’t use syrups or artifical flavors in its ice cream, opting instead for fresh ingredients that make for a better taste and texture. And, although the quality is high, the prices are among the lowest you’ll find in a Venetian gelateria. With a few unique flavors that defy description, Il Doge has quickly helped at least one Let’s Go researcher fatten up.
The southwest corner of Campo San Margherita. 1 scoop €1.20, 2 scoops €2, 3 scoops €2.80. Open daily noon-11pm.
PIZZA AL TAGLIO
Sacca de la Toletta 1309
PIZZERIA
041 52 36 518
The Pizza Academy diploma on the wall doesn’t lie—the owner of this shop knows how to cook up some serious pizzas and sandwiches. Unlike the bland, flat, lukewarm stuff you’ll find at many pizzerias, Pizza Al Taglio’s pizza and sandwiches are fresh, filling, and delicious. The nutella calzones (€1.50) are sure to make your day but ruin your diet.
From the Accademia, go east, turn left at the 1st canal you meet, and turn right at the 1st bridge ahead on the left; continue straight for 2-3min. Slices of pizza €2. Sandwiches €3. Calzones €3. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm.
RISTORANTE CANTINONE STORICO
Fondamenta di Ca’ Bragadin 660/661
RISTORANTE
041 52 39 577
Situated between the Guggenheim and Accademia, Ristorante Cantinone Storico is the rare Dorsoduro restaurant that offers great Venetian cuisine in a relaxed setting at prices more commonly seen in the backroads of Cannaregio and the eastern reaches of Castello. Stop here for a long lunch break between visits to the neighborhood’s museums.
V: Zattere. Turn right, walk 3-4min., and turn left onto Fondamenta Bragadin. Continue for 2-3min.; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €10-24. Open daily 12:30-5:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm.
Castello
Since Castello is so close to P. San Marco, it gets a lot of tourist traffic, and restaurants with well-priced cuisine tend to be few and far between. There are quite a few good restaurants in Castello, but they’re typically a bit pricier than comparable restaurants in other neighborhoods. In a lot of cases, you’re going to have to compromise either on quality (and opt for a cheap restaurant) or convenience (and trek out to Cannaregio or eastern Castello), or just be prepared to pay a bit more than you otherwise might.
TAVERNA SAN LIO
Salizada San Lio 5547
RISTORANTE
041 27 70 669 www.tavernasanlio.com
One of the best restaurants you’ll find in all of Venice, Taverna San Lio serves an incredible Venetian menu with a bit of international flair. Reflecting the owner’s eclectic taste, both the decor and the cuisine are strongly Venetian but reflect the city’s increasingly cosmopolitan identity. If the quality of the food isn’t enough to turn heads, the bright colors of the walls will catch your attention.
From Rialto Bridge, go east along Salizada San Lio for 3-4min.; restaurant is on the right. Entrees €12-26. Open M noon-11pm, W-Su noon-11pm.
RISTORANTE AI BARBACANI
Calle del Paradiso 5746
RISTORANTE
041 52 10 234 www.ristoranteaibarbacani.com
Far and away the most impressive restaurant in the area around Santa Maria Formosa, Ristorante ai Barbacani boasts an excellent Venetian menu, extensive wine list, subtle yet elegant Venetian decor, and gorgeous floor to ceiling windows that open on to a canal trafficked by gondoliers and kayakers. If you’re looking to impress a date, consider calling ahead to reserve the table for two closest to the window near the bridge.
From Campo Santa Maria Formosa, immediately across westernmost bridge off the square. Entrees €9-20. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm.
CIP CIAP
Calle del Mondo Novo 5799/A
PIZZERIA
04 15 23 66 21
You’ll be hard pressed to find pizza of this quality for a better price in Venice. The calzones and pizza are made fresh several times daily and then cooked to order. Budget travelers weary of the sensibly-sized portions found in most Venetian restaurants may find themselves suffering a stomachache after gorging themselves on Cip Ciap’s cheap pies.
Immediately across bridge to Calle del Mondo Novo from S. Maria Formosa. Calzones €3. Pizza €1.50 per slice. Open M 9am-9pm, W-Su 9am-9pm.
RISTORANTE AL COVO
Campiello della Pescaria 3968
RISTORANTE
041 52 23 812 www.ristorantealcovo.com
From the outside, there isn’t anything too striking about Ristorante al Covo, but this modest restaurant offers the most incredible Venetian cuisine in Castello, if not the entire city. Though pricey for budget travelers, a €25 meal here is an absolute steal when compared to other restaurants of comparable quality.
East from P. San Marco, cross 4 bridges and turn left onto the last street before the 5th bridge going east. Entrees €16-29. Open daily 12:45-3:30pm and 7:30-midnight.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA SAN PROVOLO
Campo San Provolo 4713
RISTORANTE
041 52 85 085
If you’re looking to get a meal around San Marco at a good restaurant that caters to tourists, Ristorante Pizzeria San Provolo is a great choice. The staff is very friendly and speaks English well, the menu has many options in various price ranges, and the patio seating is exceptional.
From P. San Marco, walk south toward water, turn left, cross 2 bridges, make the 1st left, and continue through Campo San Provolo; the restaurant is on the left. Entrees €9-29. Open M-Th 11:30am-10:30pm, Sa-Su 11:30am-10:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
For all of its fascinating history, awe-inspiring architecture, and delightful cuisine, the one thing that Venice desperately lacks is nightlife. Whereas the ubiquity of historic palazzi, excellent seafood, and lovely hotels in Venice means you could find them while blindfolded, if you head out in search of a random bar you’ll likely end up heading home an hour later with nothing more than a kebab to show for it. Stick to the major hot spots listed here, and you’ll have a lot more success. Additionally, be prepared for a much more laid-back bar scene than that of most major Italian cities. You’re not going to find much dancing or serious partying, but there are a couple great places to sit back, enjoy a few drinks, and appreciate Venice at night. Campo San Margherita in Dorsoduro is the city’s biggest nightlife hub, and that whole neighborhood is the place to be after 9pm. Crime in Venice is less of a concern than
it is almost anywhere else in Italy, but use common sense: don’t carry too much cash or walk alone at night, and you will probably be fine.
San Marco
After tourists head out for dinner at around 7pm, the bells of the Campanile stop chiming every few minutes, and pigeons and seagulls are left to drift aimlessly in the sky as the tourists who fed them bread during the day disappear. It is at this time of day that P. San Marco is at its finest.
After the beauty of the early evening, things get slower and duller. Dozens of places market themselves as “bars,” but that term is more likely to denote a light-fare restaurant that serves alcohol than a nightlife hotspot. There are certainly a couple of places worth visiting, but since San Marco caters to the city’s typical tourist, expect to see a lot more middle-aged couples holding hands and a lot fewer students downing body shots.
BACARO LOUNGE BAR
Sestiere San Marco 1345
BAR
041 29 60 687
An ultra-chic minimalist bar just steps away from P. San Marco, Bacaro Lounge is one of the few establishments in San Marco that caters to the young and fashionable post-dinner crowd. Whereas most bars here are filled with middle-aged tourists rocking fanny packs and visors, Bacaro Lounge recalls the scene at an exclusive club in Manhattan or LA. With an understated playlist, sleek lounge set-up conducive to free conversation and mingling, and an extensive list of wine and cocktails, Bacaro Lounge is clearly the hottest place to be after dark in San Marco.
Exit the southwest corner of P. San Marco, opposite Basilica di San Marco; the bar is shortly ahead on the left. Drinks €3.50-13. Open daily until 2am.
RISTORANTE GRAN CAFFÉ QUADRI
P. San Marco 121
CAFE
041 52 22 105 www.quadrivenice.com
Caffé Quadri isn’t a bar or club, and the tone tends more toward refinement than debauchery, with a string quartet dressed in formalwear setting the soundtrack. Sipping one of their excellent drinks (the wine list is unbeatable, and the coffee is reputedly some of Venice’s best) to the tune of the strings playing in the background, you’ll experience P. San Marco as it ought to be, showcased in the lovely setting provided by this cafe.
In the northwest corner of P. San Marco. Drinks €3-8. Dessert €3-7. Open daily until 12:30am.
GRAND CANAL RESTAURANT AND BAR
Calle Vallaresso 1332
HOTEL BAR
041 52 00 211 www.hotelmonaco.it
A welcoming hotel bar, the Grand Canal Restaurant and Bar in upscale Hotel Monaco manages to avoid pretention and cultivate a clientele that stretches beyond the hotel’s guest list. The wine list is exceptionally good, the bar has comfortable seating, and the dock opens into a nice summer breeze and excellent views across the water to Santa Maria della Salute.
From P. San Marco, walk towards the water, turn right, and continue for 2min.; Hotel Monaco is at the end of the street. Drinks €4-10. Open daily until midnight.
Cannaregio
People don’t travel to Cannaregio for its nightlife, but anyone can enjoy sitting outside with a good bottle of wine or a couple scoops of gelato while taking in this low-key neighborhood’s nighttime scene. The natives here are generally more receptive to out-of-town visitors than are the residents of Venice’s more popular destinations, probably because Cannaregio remains free of the floods of gondola-searching tourists that fill places like P. San Marco. Cannaregio’s decidedly more intimate Campo San Marco on Lista di Spagna is a particularly pleasant place to while away the night hours, as Venetian locals and tourists socialize in restaurants and on benches well into the evening.
CASINO’ MUNICIPALE DI VENEZIA: CA’ VENDRAMIN CALERGI
Cannaregio 2040
CASINO
041 52 97 111 www.casinovenezia.it
One of the first things you might notice after getting off the plane at VCE is that Venice takes its gambling seriously—even the baggage carousels have a roulette-wheel theme, sponsored by the (in)famous Venetian Municipal Casino. While serious gamblers might want to head straight to Lido where the historic casino’s main branch still operates, the Cannaregio location should be fun for anyone who just wants to play (or count) some cards and have a few drinks.
Going east on Strada Nova, take the 1st left past Calle Vendramin. Male guests should wear formal jackets. Entry €5, guests at some hotels get in free. Ask at your reception desk. Open M-Th 3pm-2:30am, F-Sa 3pm-3am, Su 3pm-2:30am.
THE IRISH PUB VENEZIA
Cannaregio 3847
BAR
041 528 1439 www.theirishpubvenezia.com
A friendly crowd of boisterous locals and rowdy tourists brings The Irish Pub Venezia some of the best nightlife in the neighborhood. The drinks are strong and the bar is crowded, but patrons tend to be jovial and are happy to strike up a conversation on Venice, politics, or just about any other subject at the drop of a hat. Loud music and the pub’s proximity to the late-night restaurant Neapolis Kebab keep it hopping long into the evening, even on weekdays.
Just off Strada Nova, on the left going east. Drinks €3-6. Snacks €6-12. Open daily until 1:30am.
San Polo
Nightlife-wise, San Polo is second only to Dorsoduro. The area around the Rialto Bridge in particular is home to some of Venice’s best bars, popular with both Venetian locals and tourists.
JAZZ CLUB 900
San Polo 900
JAZZ CLUB
041 52 26 565 www.jazz900.com
Just down Ruga Rialto from the bars near the Rialto Bridge, Jazz Club 900 is a live-music hot spot. With shows up to several times each week, top-notch pizza, and reasonable prices on bottles, glasses, and pitchers of beer, this venue can be a chill hangout or a lively music bar, depending on what groups the club is hosting.
From the Rialto Bridge, continue straight, turn left onto Ruga Rialto, continue for 2min., and turn right: it’s ahead on the left. Signs lead to the jazz club. Drinks €2.50-5. Pizza €6-11. Open Tu-Su 11:30am-4pm and 7pm-2am.
MURO VENEZIA RIALTO
Campo Bella Vienna Rialto 222
BAR
041 24 12 339 www.murovenezia.com
With chic metal-and-dark-leather decor reminiscent of trendy bars in downtown Manhattan, Muro Venezia Rialto is one of Venice’s most popular drinking spots for travelers and locals in their mid-20s. A bit more upscale than most other bars around the Rialto Bridge, Muro Venezia keeps the music low and emphasizes its lounge ambience.
From Rialto Bridge, continue straight ahead for less than 2min., and turn right; the bar is on the left. Drinks €3-7. Open M-Sa 9am-3:30pm and 4pm-1:30am, Su 4pm-1:30am.
ANCÒRA VENEZIA
Rialto 120
BAR
041 52 07 066 www.ancoravenezia.it
One of Venice’s most popular (and crowded) bars, Ancòra complements the subtle Asian and modernist aesthetics of its decor with some of the most universally lauded bartenders in the city. If the bar is overly crowded, grab a drink to enjoy outside in Campo di San Giacometto.
From the Rialto Bridge, continue straight; Ancòra is the last bar on the right side of the Campo di San Giacometto. Drinks €3-6.50. Open M-Sa 9:30am-2am.
BAR AI 10 SAVI
Rialto 55
BAR
041 52 38 005 www.ai10savi.com
A popular hangout for local teens and groups of tourists alike, Bar Ai 10 Savi lacks the pretense of some other Rialto nightspots and sticks to the basics: strong drinks at great prices. The bar is crowded enough that patrons spill out onto the street in chatting groups to enjoy a cold one and the Campo di San Giacometto.
From Rialto Bridge, continue straight; the bar is on the left side of Campo di San Giacometto. Drinks €2.50-5.50. Open daily 8:30am-1am.
Santa Croce
In a city not known for its nightlife, Santa Croce is about the last place you’d want to go for an evening out. Unlike some other neighborhoods with at least a few bars and restaurants open late, Santa Croce offers only a couple of places th
at keep the home-fires burning after midnight.
BAR AL CARCAN
Salizada S. Pantalon
BAR
041 71 32 36
While most of Santa Croce shuts down around 11pm (even on weekends), Bar Al Carcan stays crowded well into the night with tourists and locals alike looking to get a quick nightcap or enjoy a few drinks on the patio. The bar is small and fairly popular, though never overcrowded, and offers cheap drinks and good music.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, and continue for approximately 2min. Drinks €3-6. Open until 1am most days during the summer.
Dorsoduro
Dorsoduro has far and away the best nightlife of any neighborhood in Venice. Though there are dozens of bars and clubs, the vast majority of them are concentrated around Campo San Margherita, which is located just minutes away from Santa Croce and San Polo. As there isn’t any action to be found on the island’s western and southern edges, your best bet is to barhop near this vibrant campo. Nightlife in Dorsoduro begins before sunset during the summer, and the infamous Club Piccolo Mondo keeps it going almost until daybreak. So if you’re looking for some bacchanalian revelry in the surprisingly sober city of Venice, Dorsoduro is the place to go.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 144