Exit P. San Marco beneath St. Mark’s Clock Tower, take 1st possible left onto a street with a bridge and cross the bridge; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €8-20. Open daily 11am-10pm.
Cannaregio
As many great places as there are to eat in Cannaregio, there are just as many mediocre and touristy options. Stay away from the main streets and menus targeting out-of-towners, and you’ll find some of the best cuisine Venice has to offer.
RISTORANTE CASA BONITA
Fondamento S. Giobbe 492
RISTORANTE
041 52 46 164
One of the trickiest things about eating in Venice is that almost every restaurant claims to be authentically Venetian and displays a mouth-watering menu—then you walk in and realize that there are more Germans than Italians in the house. Casa Bonita is the rare Venetian restaurant that is both accessible from the main thoroughfares and genuinely Venetian. Often packed throughout the day, this restaurant caters to local tastes with excellent food in generous portions for a reasonable price. The canal-side outdoor seating is excellent, and the bar gives you any number of excuses to stay at your table and people-watch after your meal.
From the train station, turn left and walk 5min. down Lista de Spagna. Immediately before Guglie Bridge, turn left and continue for 4min. Entrees €12-18. Open Tu-Su 10am-3pm and 5:30pm-1am.
OSTERIA BOCCADORO VENEZIA
Campo Widmann 5405/a
RISTORANTE
041 52 11 021 www.boccadorovenezia.it
Unlike your typical Venetian restaurant, Osteria Boccadoro Venezia offers an haute-cuisine reinterpretation of the region’s traditional foods. Although Osteria Boccadoro’s prices may seem excessive, rest assured that its food merits the cost. The restaurant’s minimalist, modern aesthetic might not match up to your standard idea of what a fine Venetian restaurant looks like, but in sacrificing a bit of tradition, this osteria has foregone nothing in terms of stomach-pleasing fare, winning over discerning locals and tourists alike with its quality dishes.
Halfway along Calle Widmann. Entrees €20-28. Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
TRATTORIA STORICA
Ponte dei Gesuiti 4858
RISTORANTE
041 52 85 266 www.trattoriastorica.it
Trattoria Storica is an upscale, family-operated Venetian restaurant with exceptionally friendly service and great food. An excellent choice for anyone looking to savor a longer meal in a quieter section of Cannaregio, Storica offers generous portions that make for a very filling dinner, though you might consider splitting one of their dishes for lunch with a fellow traveler. With a helpful English-language menu, the restaurant does a great job welcoming foreigners without compromising its Venetian character.
Exiting the Gesuiti to Campo dei Gesuiti, turn left and cross the bridge; Storica is on the left. Entrees €16-22. Open daily 11am-4pm and 7pm-midnight.
GAM GAM
Canale di Cannaregio 1122
KOSHER
041 71 52 84
Perhaps the premier kosher restaurant for the more-than 1000 Jewish residents of Venice, Gam Gam brings together traditional Italian kosher cooking (and if that phrase sounds like an oxymoron to you, you really should try out Gam Gam), Venetian cuisine, and newer Israeli culinary influences in a menu unlike any other you’ll find in Venice. Although almost all of Gam Gam’s patrons are Orthodox or Conservative Jews, this restaurant is also a great place for gentiles to experience Venice’s small but remarkably vibrant Jewish community.
From Campo S. Geremia, cross the Guglie Bridge and turn left. Entrees €8-15. Open M-Th noon-10pm, F noon-4pm, Su noon-10pm.
PASTICCERIA MARTINI
Rio Terà San Leonardo 1302
BAKERY
041 71 73 75
At first glance, Pasticceria Martini is a lot like other pastry shops in Cannaregio, but once you try one of their croissants, you’ll realize why so many residents pass by a half-dozen other pastry shops on their way here.
Just past the Guglie Bridge going North. Pastries €1. Coffee €1.50. Open daily 6am-9pm.
NAVE DE ORO
Rio Terà San Leonardo 1370
ENOTECA
041 71 96 95
Essential for any traveler seeking lots of alcohol for little money, the Nave De Oro in Cannaregio is one of six locations in Venice where wine is sold by the liter and “BYOB” stands for bring your own (empty) bottle. Provided you have €2 and an empty bottle of any kind (yes, even an old water bottle will do), you can get a liter of one of the surprisingly good regional wines offered by the friendly and knowledgeable staff. Welcome to Venice—you know you’re in Europe when the wine is less expensive than the water.
East of the Guglie Bridge along Rio Terà San Leonardo. Wine €1.70-2.20 per L. Open M-Sa 8am-1pm and 4:30-7:30pm.
San Polo
Along the Grand Canal, San Polo suffers from the same generic tourist cuisine that you’ll find near all of Venice’s sightseeing destinations, but if you manage to get away from the main drag around the Rialto a little bit, you’ll be rewarded with the unique specialities and terrific ambience of Venice’s best small restaurants.
ANTICO FORNO
Ruga Rialto 970/973
PIZZERIA
041 52 04 110
Let’s Go’s top recommendation for pizza in Venice, Antico Forno makes standard pies with top-quality ingredients as well as adventurous vegetarian options (olives, a variety of peppers, feta cheese, etc.) and deep-dish pizza that will put anything from Chicago to shame. The price might seem a bit high for single slices, but a large piece of their perfectly crisped and seasoned deep-dish pizza is substantial enough to serve as a meal.
From Rialto Bridge, go straight ahead to Ruga Rialto and turn left onto Ruga Rialto; Antico Forno is ahead on the right. Slices €2-3.50. Open daily11am-10pm.
CIOCCOLATERIA VIZIOVIRTÙ
Calle Balbi 2898
CIOCCOLATERIA
041 27 50 149 www.viziovirtu.com
Venice’s premiere chocolatier, Cioccolateria VizioVirtù crafts an incredible selection of creative, delicious, and (unfortunately) expensive chocolates in-house daily. While VizioVirtù does an excellent job with staples such as pralines, truffles, and baked goods, its mastery of the fine art of confectionery is best on display in its unconventional chocolates, including ones spiced up with red pepper, and replica Venetian masks that make great, site-specific gifts.
V: San Tomà. Walk straight until you reach a T intersection and turn left; the shop is on the right. Various chocolate creations €1-2.50. Open daily 10am-7:30pm.
OSTERIA NARANZARIA
Naranzaria 130
RISTORANTE
041 72 41 035 www.naranzaria.it
Osteria Naranzaria is a trendy, international-style restaurant and lounge with a menu as diverse as its clientele. Without completely abandoning its Venetian roots, the restaurant takes risks, dishing up unusual items such as fresh sushi, supposedly the best of its kind available in the city. Naranzaria also tends to serve smaller portions, so it’s a great place to have a light lunch by Rialto Bridge or enjoy some sushi and drinks before heading out for the night.
From Rialto Bridge, walk past San Giacomo, turn right, and cross the square; the restaurant is directly ahead. Entrees €7-18. Sushi 10 pieces for €15. Open Tu-Su noon-2am.
BIRRARIA LA CORTE
Campo San Polo 2168
RISTORANTE
041 27 50 570 www.birrarialacorte.it
The top restaurant in Campo San Polo, Birraria la Corte boasts a pretty adventurous repertoire without abandoning the staples of every Italian menu. Two unconventional entrees it has perfected include buffalo steaks and chicken curry, both of which go great with any number of the imported beers the restaurant has on tap.
From the Rialto Bridge, walk through the markets along Ruga dei Oresi, turn left onto Rughetta del Ravano, continue for approximately 4min., and cross the square; the restaurant is in the northwest corner. Entrees €6
.50-19. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
MURO VENEZIA FRARI
Rio Terà dei Frari 2604
RISTORANTE
041 52 45 310 www.murovenezia.com
Muro Venezia eschews the dry, regal ambience typical of most fine Venetian restaurants in favor of a more cutting-edge aesthetic. This preference for the avant-garde is also on display in the restaurant’s creative interpretations of classic Venetian recipes, including one of the most incredible vegetable risottos you’ll ever have. If you like the feel here, you should check out the bar owned and operated by the same people near the Rialto Bridge, Muro Venezia Rialto.
From Campo dei Frari, cross a bridge to the east, turn right, continue for 30sec. to the end of the street, and turn left. Entrees €7-25. Open M-W 11am-1am, F-Su 11am-1am. Kitchen open noon-3pm and 7-10:30pm.
PIZZERIA DUE COLONNE
Calle della Chiesa 2343
PIZZERIA
041 52 40 685
Pint-sized Pizzeria Due Colonne features a menu with great seafood, pastas, and pretty much every kind of pizza you could imagine. The portions are a whopping size for the low prices, which should save you enough that you don’t feel too bad about spending a bit extra on their famous fried calamari.
From Campo dei Frari, exit the square east, cross a bridge, turn left, cross another bridge, continue right along Calle Dona, and cross another bridge; the restaurant is ahead on the right. Entrees €6.50-15. Open daily noon-2:30pm (3pm for pizza) and 7-10:30pm.
Santa Croce
If you’re looking to get a meal in Santa Croce, stay toward the east side of the neighborhood. You can walk around the western end for half an hour without finding anything worthwhile, but if you stick to the eastern side, especially immediately southeast of Piazzale Roma, you’ll discover a lot of small, personality-filled neighborhood restaurants that offer great values for budget travelers.
RISTORANTE RIBOT
Fondamenta Minotto 158
RISTORANTE
041 52 42 486
Venice is an incredible culinary city, but Ristorante Ribot manages to stand out, with exceptional food at real-world prices. The restaurant pays tribute to the best of traditional Venice—regional cuisine, excellent Italian wines, and a beautiful patio garden—but keeps it fresh with an innovative kitchen, modern design, and live music three to four times a week. It’s tough to find better food anywhere in Venice, let alone at comparable prices.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, and continue for approximately 2min. Entrees €8-14. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.
PANIFICO BAROZZI
Salizada S. Pantalon 86/A
BAKERY, GROCERY STORE
041 71 02 33
One of the trickiest things about Venetian pastries is that, from a window shopper’s perspective, every store’s baked goods look practically identical. Sadly, looks can be deceiving, meaning that identical-looking cookies can in fact vary in quality from barely palatable to incredibly delicious. Panifico Barozzi’s pastries, however, taste as scrumptious as they appear. With an impressive number of different delicacies to sample and the added bonus of a small grocery store (surprisingly tough to find in most neighborhoods) stocked with inexpensive and convenient snacks, this is a one-stop shopping experience you can’t miss.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, and continue for approximately 3min. Pastries €1-2. Open daily 6am-7:30pm
ANTICO GAFARO
Salizada S. Pantalon 116/A
RISTORANTE, PIZZERIA
041 52 42 823
A traditional restaurant with excellent pastas (especially lasagna) and serviceable pizzas, Antico Garafo is so perfectly Venetian that it could pass for a movie set. With the gorgeous backdrop of a canal frequented by quiet boats and some of the neighborhood’s most beautiful buildings, this restaurant is a great place to relax and enjoy a long meal.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, and continue for approximately 3min. Entrees €8-22. Open daily 11:30am-11:30pm.
AGLI AMICI
Sestiere Santa Croce 189
SNACK BAR, RISTORANTE
041 52 41 309
With impressive omelettes and a great selection of cheeses, Agli Amici is a welcome anomaly in Venice, where breakfast usually consists of nothing more than tea and toast. Although the seafood options are a bit expensive, everything else here is of solid value, making this restaurant a quick but hearty lunch stop.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, immediately turn left, and continue for 90sec. Entrees €6-20. Open daily 8am-7:30pm.
LAS RAMBLAS
Santa Croce 373
CAFE
041 52 46 648
Inspired by Barcelona’s famous pedestrian street, Las Ramblas does not quite recreate the famous Catalan circus feel: its tranquil atmosphere is a far cry from the street-performing madness of its namesake. Neverthelss, the restaurant serves delicious food at reasonable prices that are, rain or shine, far better than most restaurants you’ll find around Piazzale Roma. It’s worth waiting for a sunny day, however, to appreciate the restaurant’s beautiful patio.
Following Piazzale Roma east, turn right at the 1st bridge you see; continue for 30sec.; turn right again and continue for 30sec. Entrees €8-20. Open daily 9:30am-11pm.
TRATTORIA ALLE BURCHIELLE
Fondamenta delle Burchielle 393
SNACK BAR
041 71 03 42
Close to Piazzale Roma, Trattoria Alle Burchielle offers authentic Venetian food at exceptional prices. The outdoor seating by the canal is wonderful, and given the prices, you can enjoy several courses without breaking the bank.
Following Piazzale Roma east, cross the 1st bridge you see and turn right immediately; the restaurant is on the right. Entrees €7.50-15. Open daily noon-10pm.
TRATTORIA IN CAMPIEO
Campieo Mosca 24
RISTORANTE
41 71 10 61
A step back from Salizada S. Pantalon, Trattoria in Campieo has Campieo Mosca almost entirely to itself and uses this space to full effect, offering a great outdoor setting in which to enjoy a tasty Venetian meal. Although the food is excellent, be forewarned that portions tend to run on the small side. Consider stopping here for a light lunch unless you don’t mind lightening your wallet considerably.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, continue for approximately 3min., and turn right into Campieo Mosca. Entrees €10-22. Open daily noon-3pm and 6-10:30pm.
ALIBABA KEBAB
Salizada S. Pantalon
KEBAB, PIZZERIA
041 52 45 272
Anyone staying in Venice for an extended period of time should seriously consider trying some sort of kebab, one of Venice’s major ethnic foods. Alibaba Kebab offers pretty exceptional and authentic kebab at a reasonable price and in one of the nicest kebab restaurants you’ll find in the city. Also serves pizzas, but seeing how there’s a pizzeria on every corner, you might as well take the opportunity to try something a little different.
Follow Piazzale Roma east, cross consecutive bridges, and continue for approximately 5min. Pizza €1.50. Kebab €4. Open daily 11am-3pm and 5:30-9:30pm.
Dorsoduro
Most of the nice restaurants in Dorsoduro tend toward the expensive side, but the neighborhood also offers some of the best cafes and pizzerias in the city, which makes the area appealing to travelers on a budget.
RISTORANTE LINEADOMBRA
Ponte dell’Umiltà
RISTORANTE
041 24 11 881 www.ristorantelineadombra.com
Probably not the type of restaurant most budget travelers can afford to eat at more than once a trip, but if you’re prepared to spring for an expensive meal, you won’t find a restaurant that takes its work more seriously than Ristorante Lineadombra. The food is reputed to be some of Venice’s best and is served in a beautiful, modern restaurant aesthetically similar to the nearby Punta della Dogana in its min
imalist sensibility. Since you’re going to pay a premium anywhere you eat along Zattere, you might as well go all-out and enjoy a truly excellent meal.
V: Zattere. Turn right and continue for 6-7min. The restaurant is on the left, with patio seating on the right. Entrees €21-35. Open daily noon-3pm and 7-10:30pm.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 143