• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: There are no specifically designated 24hr. pharmacies, but Afdeling Inlichtingen Apotheken hotline provides information about what pharmacies are open late on a given day. (020 69 487 09 Available 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Academisch Meidsch Centrum is located southeast of the city. (Meibergdreef 9 020 56 691 11 www.amc.uva.nl Bus #45, 47, 120, 126, 153, 155, 158 or night bus #375, 376, 377, 378, and 379 to Paasheuvelweg. Hospital is directly across.) Doctors Service Foundation of Amsterdam will put you in touch with a doctor’s clinic open after hours or on weekends. (088 00 30 600 www.shda.nl Line open daily 5pm-8am.)
Getting There
By Plane
Schiphol Airport (AMS) (090 001 41 inside the Netherlands; 31 207 940 800 outside www.schiphol.nl) is the main international airport for both Amsterdam and the Netherlands. It’s located 18km outside the city center, and the easiest way to reach it is by train ( €4.20. 15 min., 4-10 per hr. 6am-1am, then 1 night train per hr.) Trains also go to other Dutch cities from here.
By Train
Almost all trains arrive in Centraal Station (Stationsplein 1 0900 9292 www.ns.nl), Trains from The Hague ( €10.10. 1 hr., 3-6 per hr., 4:45am-12:45am.), Rotterdam ( €13.30. 1hr., 3-8 per hr. 5:30am-12:45am, 1 per hr. 12:45am-5:30am.), and Utrecht. ( €6.70. 30min., 4 per hr. 6am-midnight, 1 per hr. midnight-6am.) International trains from Belgium run by Thalys (www.thalys.com). Trains from Brussels. ( €25-64. 2hr., 1 per hr. 7:50am-8:50pm.)
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
Trams are generally the fastest and easiest modes of transport, going to all major points within the city center (except for the Oude Zijd and Red Light District, which have almost no public transport stops but are easily accessible by the stops on their northern or southern ends). Buses are good if you are going to more residential areas or spots outside of the center, though trams extend to farther distances as well. The Metro is rarely useful, as it only goes down the eastern side of the city and has few stops within the center.
The OV-chipkaart has replaced the strippenkaart as the only type of ticket used on Amsterdam public transport. One-hour tickets can be purchased directly on trams and buses for €2.60. One- to seven-day tickets (valid also on night buses) cost €7-29. Otherwise, you can purchase an OV-chipkaart for €5 and add money to it as you need. With the chipkaart, a ride on the bus, tram, or Metro costs €0.78 plus €0.10 per km. A ride pretty much anywhere in the city center will only cost you around €1. An ordinary chipkaart does not work on night buses; you have to buy special tickets, which cost €3.50 per ride or 12 for €25. Make sure to both tap in and tap out with your chipkaart to avoid being charged for more than you actually travel.
Bike Rentals
Bikes are a huge part of Amsterdam culture, and if you choose to go without one and then make friends with locals, expect them to mock you for relying on your feet or the trams. Frederic Rent-a-Bike (Brouwersgracht 78 020 62 455 09 www.frederic.nl) is run by Frederic, a guru of all things Amsterdam, who rents out rooms and also bikes. Bike City (Bloemgracht 68-70 020 62 637 21 www.bikecity.nl) in Jordaan is another option. In the centrum, try Damstraat Rent-a-Bike (Damstraat 22 062 550 29 www.bikes.nl).
the hague den haag
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The official name of The Hague is ’s Gravenhage, translating to “The Count’s Domain.” That’s a pretty awesome name for a city, so we’re going to be using it for the rest of this introduction. The Count’s Domain was birthed when Floris IV, Count of Holland, decided around 1230 that the land surrounding the pond that is now the Hofijver would be a good place to go hunting. Later Counts agreed that this was a nice tract of land, so they built more palaces here. Over time, this became an important administrative center for the Counts of Holland. After a bit of messy political history, The Count’s Domain officially became the home of the government of the Dutch Republic and the residence of the House of Orange in the 16th century. In order for the national government to control the area, The Count’s Domain didn’t officially become a city until the Napoleonic period.
Today, in addition to being the capital of the Netherlands, The Count’s Domain is extremely important for international matters, serving as the home of all embassies to the Netherlands, the judicial body of the UN, the UN’s tribunal on the former Yugoslavia, the International Criminal Court, and EU organizations like EUROPOL.
If all this makes The Count’s Domain sound important (as though you weren’t tipped off by the regal name), that’s because it is. This is a city full of politicians, diplomats, and businesspeople. Unsurprisingly, it feels a bit more sedate than the other large Dutch cities. However, its international character makes it a pleasure for travelers, as you’re pretty much guaranteed to find someone from your own country mixed in with all the locals.
ORIENTATION
Coming into The Hague, you’ll probably be arriving at Den Haag Centraal which marks the eastern border of the city center. The Hague’s real heart is the area around the palatial Binnenhof, the Dutch Parliament (the surrounding area is called Buitenhof). North of here, the city gets increasingly more residential. South and west of Buitenhof are the more commercial areas with the best shops, food, and nightlife. Running south from Buitenhof is Spui, which heads toward the Stayokay, lined first with theaters, then with some cheap takeout restaurants. West of Buitenhof is the busy shopping area on Grotemarktstraat and the surrounding streets. This region gives way to the popular nightlife area around Grote Markt. Northwest of Buitenhof a tangle of small streets like Molenstraat and Papestraat contains more relaxed bars and good restaurants. Fifteen minutes north of the city by tram, you’ll find the beach town of Scheveningen.
ACCOMMODATIONS
With so many people rolling into The Hague on business, there are few rooms for those seeking a cheap roof over their heads. Budget hotels tend to be either quite plain or located outside the city center. The Stayokay, the one hostel in town, is a good option.
STAYOKAY DEN HAAG
Scheepmakersstraat 27
HOSTEL
070 31 578 88 www.stayokay.nl
The only hostel in The Hague, and a good one at that. About 5min. from Holland Spoor train station and 15min. from the city center, this Stayokay has the same quality facilities (large, clean rooms, and helpful staff) as the other Stayokays around the Netherlands, though it also shares their slightly bland character.
From Den Haag Centraal, take tram #17 to Rijswijkseplein. 4- to 8-bed dorms from €20.
JORPLACE BEACH HOSTEL
Keizerstraat 296
HOSTEL
070 33 832 70 www.jorplace.nl
Located in Scheveningen, the beach town 15min. away from The Hague, this is a great option if you want a bit more bustle and fun than the Stayokay. And if you want to go to the beach, of course.
From Den Haag Centraal, take tram #16 to Buitenhof and switch to tram #1. 4- to 20-bed dorms €19-30; doubles €35-60.
STATEN HOTEL
Frederik Hendriklaan 299
HOTEL
070 35 439 43 www.statenhotel.nl
Located outside the city center but quite close to the excellent Gemeentemuseum, Staten Hotel is family-run, and it shows in the kind and helpful service.
Tram #17 to Museon/Gemeentemuseum. Continue walking toward the museums, go left onto Frederik Hendriksplein, then right onto Frederik Hendriklaan. Singles €45-70; doubles €77-83.
HOTEL LA VILLE
Veenkade 5
HOTEL
070 34 636 57 www.hotellaville.nl
Recent renovations have left this hotel with ultramodern, all-white decor (occasionally broken up by the odd wall print here and there). The rooms can be on the small side, but the location is pretty ideal for the price: you’re just around the corner from the heart of the city.
Tram #17 (from either Holland Spoor or Den Haag Centraal) to Noordwal. The hotel is ahead on your left. Singles €45; doubles €80; royal suites €125. Apartments
€115.
SIGHTS
As the political center of the Netherlands and one of the most important diplomatic cities in the world, The Hague is full of political and historic heavyweights. Also, a few excellent art museums dot the city.
VREDESPALEIS (PEACE PALACE)
Carnegieplein 2
GOVERNMENT
070 30 242 42 www.vredespaleis.nl
It might be difficult to think of Tsar Nicholas II as a big supporter of international peace and demilitarization. But he and Andrew Carnegie were the two big players behind the construction of this formidable building dedicated to the promotion of cooperation between nation states. The Peace Palace is home to both the International Court of Justice (ICJ) (the judicial organ of the United Nations) and the lesser-known Permanent Court of Arbitration (PCA) (an older court for settling interstate disputes). There are two ways to get yourself inside: attend a session of the ICJ (the PCA hearings are usually closed to the public) or take a tour around the building. (There is a third way to get inside: being on trial there. But note that Let’s Go really does not approve of crimes against international justice.)
Tram #1 or 10 to Vredespaleis. You can’t miss the place. To attend a session of the ICJ, check the website’s calendar (www.icj-cij.org) or call 030 223 23. Unless it’s a very high-profile case, you do not need to make reservations to attend. Bring a passport or driver’s license for entry. Reservations must be made for the tours, recommended at least a week in advance. Tour €5, under 13 €3. Tours May 1-Sept 30 M-F at 10, 11am, 2, 3, 4pm.
MAURITSHUIS
Korte Vijverberg 8
MUSEUM
070 30 234 56 www.mauritshuis.nl
The outside of this museum, an elegant 17th-century building next to the Binnenhof and the water of the Hofijver, is so pretty that you may not want to actually go inside. But that would be foolish, as this is one of the best collections of Dutch Golden Age art in the country (and the world). Concentrated in just two floors, you’ve got works by Rubens, Van Ruisdael, Holbein, Hals, and Steen. The most famous pieces in the collection are Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp, and Vermeer’s luminescent Girl with a Pearl Earring and View of Delft. Given that only 36 works by Vermeer exist, this is a pretty good showing.
Tram #10 or 17 to Buitenhof. Walk along the water and make a right at the end; the museum is straight ahead of you. €12, under 18 free, with Museumjaarkaart €1.50. Open Apr-Aug M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-5pm; Sept-Mar Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-5pm.
GEMEENTEMUSEUM
Stadhouderslaan 41
MUSEUM
070 33 811 11 www.gemeentemuseum.nl
A perfect counterpoint to the Mauritshuis (above), this museum is the home of a wide collection of 19th- and 20th-century art, with a special focus on Dutch and other Northern European artists. A great selection of German Expressionist works gives way to a large body of paintings by Piet Mondrian, including his last work, Victory Boogie Woogie.
Tram #17 to Gemeentemuseum/Museon. The museum is just across the street. €10, under 18 or with Museumjaarkaart free. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm.
BINNENHOF AND RIDDERZAAL
Binnenhof 8a
GOVERNMENT
070 36 461 44 www.binnenhofbezoek.nl
This complex of palace-like buildings next to the waters of the Hofijver is one of the most central and photogenic sights in The Hague. And it’s important, too. This is the home of Dutch democracy, where the upper and lower chambers (the eerste kamer and tweede kamer) of Parliament live. Also in the complex is the Ridderzaal, or Hall of Knights, where Queen Beatrix officially opens Parliament each year on the third Tuesday in September (after traveling to the hall in a gilded carriage). Guided tours, which begin with a video on the history of the Binnenhof, can take you through the Ridderzaal and the First or Second Chambers of Parliament (except when they are in session). The tours are pretty lengthy and will tell you all you’d ever want to know about the workings of the Dutch political system. If you don’t fancy a lecture, you can still wander through the courtyard of the Binnenhof and peek into the windows of the Ridderzaal.
Tram #1 to Centrum, or #10 or 17 to Buitenhof. It’s the giant castle-like building by the water. Reservations recommended for the guided tours. Tour of Ridderzaal €4, Ridderzaal and a chamber of Parliament €6. Tours M-Sa 10am-4pm.
COFFEESHOPS AND SMARTSHOPS
The Hague doesn’t have much of a coffeeshop scene—the few that are here aren’t as bare bones as the ones in Rotterdam, but you won’t find anything near the concentration or luxury of the Amsterdam shops.
EUPHORIA
Schoolstraat 11
SMARTSHOP
070 35 625 51 www.euphoria.nl
It’s kind of surprising that a city with so few coffeeshops has such a good smartshop. Euphoria cuts the crap, stocking the same good selection of smoking gear (bongs, water pipes, etc.) as Amsterdam smartshops but eschewing the kitschy souvenirs those outposts hawk.
From the Grote Kerk, walk 1 block down Riviervismarkt toward Buitenhof and make a right onto Schoolstraat. Herbal XTC €8-14; philosophers’ stones €17 per dose. Open Tu-W noon-7pm, Th-Sa noon-9pm, Su noon-6pm.
THE GAME
Nieuwstraat 4
COFFEESHOP
070 34 505 74
As far as coffeeshops in The Hague go, this is one of the better ones. A spacious interior, a cool mural behind the bar, and sparkling lights complete the chilled-out look that is enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.
Walk down Buitenhof toward Riviervismarkt and make a left onto Nieuwstraat. Weed and hash €4-11 per g. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-1:30am, Su 2pm-1am.
FOOD
The Hague does have some budget options, but they are largely the kind of places best for 3am pizza or post-clubbing shawarma. You can find them in the streets surrounding the Grote Kerk and along Spui (which is conveniently on your way home if you’re stumbling back to the Stayokay). A higher quality but slightly more expensive meal can be enjoyed at one of the number of good restaurants around Molenstraat. Chinatown, the area surrounding Wagenstraat, is chock full of Asian restaurants.
HNM CAFE
Molenstraat 21a
CAFE, FUSION
070 36 565 53
HNM is somewhat along the lines of a classic bruin cafe, but with brighter chairs, larger windows, and more international food. Try the Thai chicken soup or the pasta Bolognese and enjoy the eclectic mix of indie music playing overhead.
From Binnenhof, walk through Plaats square, make a right onto Noordeinde, and a left onto Molenstraat. Entrees €11-14. Open M-W noon-midnight, Th-Sa noon-1am, Su noon-6pm.
VERY ITALIAN PIZZA
Kettingstraat 13-15
ITALIAN
070 36 545 41 www.veryitalianpizza.nl
Dozens of different oven-baked pizzas and pastas can satisfy just about any craving for a mixture of carbs, cheese, vegetables, and meat.
Walk down to the end of Buitenhof, away from the water toward Riviervismarkt, and make a left onto Kettingstraat. Pizzas and pastas €5-10. Schaals €21-36. Open daily 11am-1am.
BAKLUST
Veenkade 19
VEGETARIAN
070 75 322 74 www.baklust.nl
This cheery little cafe feels like a homey kitchen, with colorful decor, cool comic posters on the wall, and nice wooden tables. The food is all vegetarian, with many vegan options. Their tarts and other bakery items are particularly mouth-watering. Tram #17 to Noordwal. The restaurant is at the beginning of the canal. Sandwiches €3.50-6. Entrees €4-10 Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
HARVEST
Sint Jacobstraat 1
CHINESE
070 39 209 60
At the edge of Chinatown, this simple restaurant offers an excellent selection of dim sum. The pork buns are doughy, the dumplings steamy, and the rice flour rolls slippery.
Tram #2 or 6 to Spui. Walk south on Spui and make a right onto Sint Jacobstraat; Harvest is at the corner with Wagenstraat. Dim sum €2.50-4. Entrees �
��8-13. Open daily noon-midnight.
LOS ARGENTINOS
Kettingstraat 14
ARGENTINE
070 34 685 23 www.los-argentinos.nl
This rough wood-paneled, bar-like spot boasts the best steaks in town—just ask the locals. If steak isn’t your thing, entrees like grilled salmon should fit the bill, but don’t come here expecting a good salad.
Walk down to the end of Buitenhof, away from the water toward Riviervismarkt, and make a left onto Kettingstraat. Steaks €10-20. Open daily 3pm-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
Given the city’s reputation as a center for business and politics, nightlife in The Hague is perhaps livelier than one would expect. You’ll only find a handful of clubs, but some of the larger bars turn into dance spots late on weekend nights. The best places to go for boisterous crowds are the bars around Grote Markt, which have large terraces from which people spill out into the square. Near Oude Molstraat, a number of excellent bars and bruin cafes offer the working men and women of The Hague a place at which to drown their geopolitical sorrows.
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