213 46 10 58 www.lisbonpoetshostel.com
This hostel is flat-out luxurious. The dorm rooms, named for famous poets of various nationalities, are large and clean, and the common room is best measured in hectares. As the name suggests, a literary theme prevails: writers’ quotes line the walls, there’s a small book exchange, and there’s even a typewriter—but you’ll need to fix it first if you want to use it. Activities ranging from city tours to fado nights to cafe crawls take place daily and are free for guests.
From Baixa-Chiado, take the Pr. do Chiado exit, and turn right up R. Nova da Trinidade. Breakfast and linens included. Towels €1. Laundry €7. Free lockers. Kitchen. Shared bath. Elevator. Credit card min. €50. 4- or 6-bed dorms €17-21; 2-bed €20-24. Private doubles €40-60. Discount with 5 nights total if 1 or more is in Oporto Poets Hostel. Reception 24hr.
OASIS BACKPACKERS MANSION
R. de Santa Catarina, 24
HOSTEL
213 47 80 44 www.oasislisboa.com
This hostel is close to the nightlife of Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré but in a quiet neighborhood just down the street from the pleasant Miradouro de Santa Catarina. It has its own nightlife, too, in the private patio bar (open 6pm-1am) just off the street, and the rooms are large and comfortable. Large, private doubles are located up the street on a lovely courtyard. This building also has a kitchen and trendily decorated common space.
Baixa-Chiado (Chiado exit). From Pr. de Luís de Camões, follow R. do Loreto (at far right side if entering plaza from direction of Metro station) 4 blocks, then left down R. Marechal Saldanha to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina (lookout point), then right; it’s the big yellow house at the end of the street. Breakfast, linens, and towels included. Kitchen. Free safe. Laundry €7. Dorms €18-22; doubles €45-56. Reception 8am-midnight.
Alfama
LISBON AMAZING HOSTEL
Beco do Arco Escuro, 17
HOSTEL
218 88 00 54
The rooms in this hostel certainly aren’t the biggest, and it’s more expensive than comparable accommodations in neighborhoods to the west, but stay in this hostel for the true Alfama experience. It’s literally right above one of the ancient neighborhood’s arches, one block from the cheap restaurants on R. dos Bacalhoeiros and the cathedral. The neighborhood is much quieter at night than Bairro Alto, so you can actually get some sleep, if you want.
Terreiro Paço, tram 28E, or bus 737 to Sé. From the north side of Pr. do Comércio (farthest from the river), facing the river, head left along R. da Alfândega 3 blocks, then left, then left on R. dos Bacalhoeiros, then right through the arch and up the steps; follow signs for “LAHostels.” Breakfast, linens, and towels included. June-Sept dorms €30; doubles €55. Oct-May dorms €20-25; doubles €45-55.
Around Praça do Marquês de Pombal
BLACK AND WHITE HOSTEL
R. de Alexandre Herculano, 39, 1st fl.
HOSTEL
213 46 22 12 www.costta.com
This hostel is in a slightly more upscale neighborhood (though less than a block from a supermarket), and staying here is like living in an artist’s studio. Massive, colorfully bold murals and random pieces of art floating around the dorm rooms make the entire hostel feel like a large piece of performance art. The common spaces are large and comfortable, and the building itself feels charmingly worn. Marquês de Pombal, or buses 1, 74, 202, 706, 709, 713, 720, 727, 738, 758, 773 to Rato. From Marquês de Pombal metro stop, take the exit toward R. de Alexandre Herculano, then walk down Av. da Liberdade away from the giant statue. Then turn right onto R. de Alexandre Herculano; the hostel is 4 blocks down on the left. Breakfast and linens included. Towels €1. Kitchen. Dorms €15-20. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
Lisbon’s history can be seen on every street in the city, stretching from the present back 3,000 years. Moorish azulejos (painted and glazed tiles) line the ancient facades and interiors of Alfama; the fortress-like 12th-century Sé (cathedral) looms over the city with its imposing Romanesque presence; the 11th-century Castelo de São Jorge sits on a high hill over the center. The whole city is essentially one large sight to experience, from confusing Alfama to rigid and (more) modern Baixa. Those planning on doing a lot of sightseeing in a few days should consider purchasing the tourist office’s Lisboa Card for a flat fee. Many museums and sites are closed Mondays and free Sundays and holidays before 2pm.
Baixa
Baixa doesn’t have many historical sights—the whole neighborhood was leveled and rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755. The pedestrian streets and praças, though, have their own newer brand of beauty and excellent people-watching. Rossio, known more formally as Praça de Dom Pedro IV, is Lisboa’s heart. The city’s main square has been used as a cattle market, public execution stage, bullring, and carnival ground—today it is home to tourists and the large central statue of Dom Pedro IV, with circling drivers making the plaza their own Indianapolis Motor Speedway. At the north end of the plaza is the magnificent Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II, with a statue of Gil Vicente, Portugal’s first great dramatist, peering down onto Baixa.
Bairro Alto and Chiado
The culture in Chiado is as high as its altitude, and the area is home to plenty of museums and historic sites. Neighboring Bairro Alto offers great views of the city from its miradouros.
MUSEU ARQUEOLÓGICO DO CARMO
Lg. do Carmo
CHURCH, MUSEUM
213 47 86 29
Sick of those big, boring churches that all look the same? This archaeological museum is housed in a 14th-century Gothic church like any other, except it’s missing its roof. The ruins became ruins in the 1755 earthquake and ensuing fire, and today they stand as an open courtyard under empty arches where the roof once stood. Highlights of the museum, whose collection spans four millennia and the entire globe, include mummies from Peru and Egypt, but the real sight here is the ruined building itself.
Baixa-Chiado (Chiado exit) or bus #58, 100, or tram 28. From Rossio, walk (steeply) up Cç. do Carmo to Lg. do Carmo. €3.50, students and seniors €2, under 14 free. Open M-Sa June-Sept 10am-7pm; Oct-May 10am-6pm.
CASTELO DE SÃO JORGE
Castelo de São Jorge
CASTLE, HISTORIC SITE, VIEWS
218 80 06 20 www.castelosaojorge.egeac.pt
Built by the Moors in the 11th century on the highest point in Lisbon, this hilltop fortress was captured by Dom Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, in 1147. Later Portuguese kings made it their residence, and today visitors can walk all around the ramparts to enjoy phenomenal panoramic views of Lisbon. There is a small museum of artifacts found at the site that date back to the sixth century BCE.
Bus #737, or trams 12E and 28E; follow signs to Castelo. €7, students and seniors €3.50, under 10 free. Open Mar-Oct 9am-9pm; Nov-Feb 9am-6pm. Last entry 30min. before close. Museum has guided tours daily at noon and 4pm.
SÉ CATEDRAL DE LISBOA
Largo da Sé
CHURCH, MUSEUM
218 86 67 52
Lisboa’s 12th-century cathedral is massive and intimidating, built to double as a fortress, if needed. Its austere Romanesque style makes the few brightly colored stained-glass windows leap out of the walls, where the same ornamentation is often lost in a busy Gothic or Baroque church. The cloisters, an archaeological site perpetually under scaffolding, contain a collection of tombs with brilliant carvings of various scenes from daily life and the Bible. The treasury houses a small collection or religious objects and manuscripts.
Bus #737, or tram 28E. From Baixa, follow R. da Conceição east (to the left as you face the river) up past the church, then turn right onto R. de Santo António da Sé and follow the tram tracks; it’s the large, simple building that looks like a fortress. Free. Cloister €2.50. Church open M 9am-5pm, Tu-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 9am-5pm. Treasury open M-Sa 10am-5pm. Cloister open May-Sept M 10am-5pm, Tu-Sa 10am-6pm; Oct-Apr M-Sa 10am-5pm. Mass Tu-Sa 6:30pm, Su 11:30am.
Graça
PANTEÃO NACIONAL
Campo de Santa Clara
TOMBS, HISTORIC SITE
218 85 48 39 www.igespar.pt
The Igreja de Santa Engrácia was started in the late 17th century, but once the architect died, the king lost interest in the project and the funding dried up, leaving the church unfinished for some 250 years. Eventually, General Salazar’s regime took control of the construction and completed the dome, though the pinnacles the original architect intended for either side were never added. Salazar rededicated the building as the National Pantheon, a burial place for important statesmen, in 1966. However, when democracy was restored in 1975, the new government used the Panteão to house the remains of Salazar’s most prominent opponents, while those who had worked with Salazar were prohibited from entering the building. The dome is a distinctive feature of the Lisbon skyline, and the much beloved Amália Rodrigues, queen of fado, is among those buried there.
Santa Apolonia, bus #12, 28, 34, 35, 704, 745, 759, 781, 782, or tram 28E. Get off tram 28E at Voz do Operário stop in front of Igreja e Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora, then follow Arco Grande de Cima (to the left of church), then take the 1st right, 1st left, and then another right; you can’t miss it. €3. Students and under 14 free. Seniors €1.50. Su before 2pm free. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm.
Belém
The Belém waterfront, a couple of kilometers west of Lisbon’s center, is one of the most majestic tributes to Portugal’s Age of Discovery and its legendary seafaring spirit. Almost as famous as the historic sights is Pastels de Belém, a pastry shop with a reputation as rich as its pastries. (R. de Belém, 84-92 213 63 74 23 Pastries €0.90 each Open daily 9am-11pm.)
MOSTEIRO DOS JERÓNIMOS
Pr. do Império
CHURCH, MUSEUM
213 62 00 34 www.mosteirojeronimos.pt
The Hieronymite Monastery was established in 1502 to honor Vasco da Gama’s expedition to India. We’re guessing the explorer’s spirit is pleased with this ornate tribute. The Manueline building has the detail of its Gothic predecessors and the sweeping elegance of the oncoming Renaissance. In the ’80s the monastery was granted World Heritage status by UNESCO, and it is in pristine condition inside and out. The church contains tombs (both symbolic and actual) of Portuguese kings and bishops. Symbolic tombs include areas of tribute to Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões, Portugal’s most celebrated poet. Entrance to the cloister is not cheap (€7, but free Su before 2pm), but it’s worth it to see one of Lisbon’s most beautiful spaces, which somehow retains its charm despite being filled with hordes of tourists.
Tram 15E, or bus #28, 76, 201, 204, 714, 727, 729, 751 to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Free. Cloister and museum €7, over 65 €3.50, under 14 free; F-Su before 2pm free for all. Combined ticket with Torre de Belém €10. Open May-Sept Tu-Su 10am-6:30pm; Oct-Apr Tu-Su 10am-5:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
TORRE DE BELÉM
Torre de Belém
DEFENSE TOWER, VIEWS
213 62 00 34
Portugal’s most famous tower has risen out of the water (except at low tide, when it’s connected to the shore by a narrow, sandy isthmus) from the banks of the Tejo for nearly 500 years, gracing visitors’ memories and souvenir stores’ postcards since its completion in 1519. It’s a short and lovely walk (if you walk along the river—the other side of the road is less scenic) from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. There is a shady park in front of it and a tiny strip of beach next to it. The tower has many levels to maximize artillery efficiency, as well as stunning 360-degree views of the Tejo and the city of Lisbon. Don’t miss the detailed carvings shaped like a rhinoceros (there are signs pointing to it), and take a minute to relax in one of the shady turrets with stone window seats and stunning views.
From Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, take unmarked underground walkway in front of the monastery (from entrance, head toward the river; it’s a small stairway) to other side of road and tracks and walk west along the river (to the right as you face the water) about 15min. Alternatively, walk in the same direction on the monastery’s side of the road and take the pedestrian walkway over the road at the tower. €5. Students and under 14 free. Over 65 €2.50. Su before 2pm free for all. Combined ticket with Mosteiro dos Jerónimos €10. Open May-Sept Tu-Su 10am-6:30pm; Oct-Apr Tu-Su 10am-5:30pm. Last entry 30min. before close.
FOOD
Some of the best and least expensive meals can be found in the ubiquitous pastelarias: don’t be fooled by the name (it means pastry shop) or the appearance (the centerpiece is usually the counter with heaps of sweets), because these places can cook, too. That said, don’t skip the pastries: pasteis de nata are generally less than €1 and are the city’s most popular sweet. Local specialties include caracois (small snails; look for a restaurant with a sign that says “Há caracois” in the window), lombo de porco com amêijoas (pork with clams; much tastier than it sounds at first), and the Portuguese staples alheira (smoked chicken sausage), sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines), and bacalhau (cod) just about any way you can think of. Some of the best deals, in terms of getting a lot for a little, are the tostas, large grilled sandwiches that usually cost €2-3. The local traditional drink is ginjinha (pronounced “jee-JEE-nyah;” also often called ginja), a sour cherry liqueur served ice-cold in a shot glass and meant to be sipped. If it’s bad, it tastes like cough syrup, but if it’s good it’s delicious and refreshing, particularly on hot Lisboa afternoons. It usually costs €1-1.50, and is sometimes served in a glass with chocolate for a little extra.
Baixa
MOMA
R. de São Nicolau, 47
RESTAURANT
914 41 75 36
A delicious oasis of good food in the desert that is Baixa. Moma’s menu is printed new daily and posted in beautiful handwriting on a large slate out front. The dishes tend to be cool, light, and creative for the hot summer months, but heavier meals are there for the taking as well. The interior is simple and clean, but the outdoor seating is the place to enjoy your meal, in the middle of the R. de São Nicolau but separated from the touristic madness by umbrellas and bamboo blinds. Get there on the early side if you’re going for lunch, though, as it tends to fill up quickly with local suits in the middle of their workday.
Baixa-Chiado (Baixa exit). Exit Metro station onto R. da Vitória, then right 1 block, and then left onto R. de São Nicolau. Entrees usually €6-8. Open M-Sa noon-7:30pm.
BONJARDIM
Tv. de Santo Antão, 12
GRILL
213 42 74 24
A little bit past Rossio from the main part of Baixa, this restaurant just off the food-filled R. de Santo Antão serves massive portions of various styles of chicken, meat, and fish. Dine outside and enjoy your meal from the “king of chicken” while watching crabs and lobsters duke it out in the aquarium in the window, or the similarly bizarre spectacle of the plethora of lost tourists trying to get back to the main plazas and easily gridded streets to the south.
Restauradores or buses #36, 44, 90, 205, 207, 702, 709, 711, 732, 745, 746, 759. Take Travessa de Santo Antão from the east side of Pr. dos Restauradores. Whole chickens €9. Grilled meats €8-12. Open Tu 6-11:30pm, W-Su noon-11:30pm.
Bairro Alto and Chiado
CERVEJARIA TRINDADE
R. Nova da Trindade, 20C
TRADITIONAL
213 42 35 06 www.cervejariatrindade.pt
Cervejaria Trindade is famous all over Lisbon for the molhos (sauces) made from beer that were invented here. Eateries throughout the city will often offer a course “à trindade,” named for this establishment. Cervejaria Trindade’s location was occupied from the end of the 13th century by a convent and became one of Lisbon’s first breweries at the start of the 19th century. Sagres, Portugal’s second best-selling beer brand, came out with a beer called Bohemia 1835, created especially to celebrate the 170th anniversary of Cervejaria Trindade. The enormous dining rooms are covered with azulejos from this period, and the cloister of the convent is used for dining as well.
NOO BAI CAFE
Miradouro do Adamastor (Santa Catarina)
CAFE, VIEWS
213 46 50 14 www.noobaicafe.com
The food and drink here are perfectly fine, but few come here on a culinary quest. It’s the sweeping view of the Tejo, including the burnt-orange 25 de Abril bridge and the giant statue of Christ signalling an incomplete pass, that really brings the crowds. If you see an open table by the railing, leap for it and don’t leave until you feel like it.
Baixa-Chiado (Chiado exit) or tram 28E to Santa Catarina. From Pr. de Luís de Camões, follow R. do Loreto (far right corner of plaza with your back toward Metro station) 4 blocks, then turn left down R. Marechal Saldanha to the miradouro. Sandwiches €3-5. Coffee €1-2.50. Beer €2-4. Open M-F noon-midnight, Su noon-10pm.
Alfama
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 177