Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 183
Suspended cages, a disco-ball dance floor, and men and women in daring apparel are staples of this hot nightclub. Whips may be confiscated upon entrance.
From Anton Martin, walk uphill on Atocha and make a left on C. del Doctor Cortezo. Cover €10-14 cover; includes one drink Open F-Sa 11pm-daybreak.
DUBLINERS
C. Espoz y Mina, 7
BAR
34 915 227 509
Come to this Irish bar for a bucket of beers (€15), a huge screen for sporting events, and a good ol’ time. Filled with travelers from all over the world, Dubliners has a fun, international vibe and gets packed and crazy during major sports games. Ever seen grown men from around the world attempt their own drunken rendition of “We are the Champions”? You can even go in for the Dubliners’ breakfast (€5.70).
From Puerta del Sol walk straight south down C. Espoz y Mina. Bar will be on your left. Drinks €5-10. Open M-Th 11am-3am, F-Sa until 11am-3:30am, Su 11am-3am.
VINOTECA BARBECHERA
C. del Principe, 27
BAR, RESTAURANT
91 420 04 78 www.vinoteca-barbechera.com/
With tables and chairs made out of beer barrels, Vinoteca Barchechera is a fun place to grab a reasonably priced drink while still enjoying the bustle of Plaza Santa Ana. Part of a chain of wine bars, Vinoteca Barbechera also serves a good range of tapas, including rolls stuffed with chorizo, ham or anchovies, smoked tuna and trout, and a range of desserts.
Plaza Santa Ana. Drinks €5-15. Open daily 10am-midnight daily.
VIVA MADRID
C. de Manuel Fernández y González, 7
BAR
91 429 36 40
Students, travelers, artists, and artists who sometimes travel as students come to party in this crowded and noisy bar, decorated in turn-of-the-century decor. It is rumored that during the 1950s, Ava Gardner and the bullfighter Manolete got handsy here—watch out for some perverted Picasso looking to buy you a drink.
From Sol, walk towards the museum district on Carrera de San Jeronmino; make a right onto C. de Manuel Fernandez y Gonzalez. Beer €4. Other drinks €6. Open F noon-1am, Sa noon-2am.
Chueca
KIYO
C. de Barbieri, 15
BAR
91 522 01 82
This lime green bar stands out even in the eclectic Chueca district. Come in for their signature kiwi cocktail drink made with fresh crushed kiwi, vodka, and sake (€7) served by bartenders passionate about this newly opened spot—just don’t be surprised when pop like Lady Gaga is blasting on replay.
Chueca. Walk straight south down C. Barbieri towards Gran Vía. Discoteca will be on your right Cocktails €5-9. Open daily 9pm-3am
SHORT BUS
C. Pelayo, 45
BAR
The motto of this funky bar is “open your mind and everything else,” and we’re sure they mean just about everything. With questionable cartoons on the walls and bright colors everywhere, this is a haven for the weird and wonderful.
Chueca. Walk straight north up C. Pelayo; bar will be on your left. Cocktails €5-10. Open daily 11am-2pm and 9pm-3am.
STUDIO 54
C. Barbieri, 7
DISCOTECA
34 615 12 68 07 www.studio54madrid.com
Steps away from the Chueca metro station, this packed discoteca has enough beautiful people, booze, and beats to do the original Studio 54 proud. Filled with a mostly gay clientele dressed to the nines, this place is fun for anybody with an open mind. Women even get in for free sometimes, depending on the time and night.
Chueca. Walk straight south down C. Barbieri towards Gran Vía. Discoteca will be on your right. Cover €10. Open Th-Sa 11:30pm-3:30am.
Malasaña
LA VÍA LÁCTEA
Velarde, 18
DISCOTECA
91 446 75 81
This discoteca dates back to the beginning of the movida era and has the bric-a-brac to prove it. It’s covered floor to ceiling with pop music memorabilia like album covers, concert posters, photographs, and more. Jams from the’50s through the ’80s prove to be a popular mix and continue to delight young, international ravers more than 30 years after the club’s inception.
Tribunal. Walk north up C. Fuencarral and make a left onto Velarde. Cover €8-12. Open daily 7:30pm-3:30am.
CLUB NASTI
San Vicente Ferrer, 33
DISCOTECA
www.nasti.es
Come to Club Nasti on Saturday nights for a hipster heaven of synthesized pop, electro beats, and punk jams. For a lighter touch try Friday nights, when house DJs spin indie rock like The Strokes, The Artic Monkeys, and The Ramones. Small dance floor gets packed as the night progresses, and you might end up wanting to shimmy out of your sweaty plaid shirt to dance only in your Ray Bans. Just remember: what happens at Nasti stays at Nasti.
Tribunal. Walk south down C. de Fuencarral and make a right onto San Vicente Ferrer. Drinks €8-12. Open Th 2-5am, F 1-6am, Sa 2-6am.
Argüelles and Moncloa
MI BOHIO
C. Luisa Fernada, 9
BAR, CUBAN
915 41 58 91
A small bar and Cuban restaurant tucked away near C. de la Princesa, Mi Bohio looks like the place in this neighborhood where everybody knows the locals’ names. Since nightlife is slim in this area, head to this watering hole for some drinks and a game on its large TV.
Ventura Rodriguez. Walk north up C. de la Princesa and make a left onto C. Luisa Fernanda. Beer €1.50. Cocktails €7.50. Open daily 11am-1am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
With some of the best art museums, public festivals, and performing arts groups in the world, Madrid’s arts and culture scene is thriving. From street performers in Retiro Park to Broadway musicals, you can find anything you’re looking for in this metropolis. Come for traditional entertainment such as classic flamenco, or push the envelope at one of Madrid’s contemporary art, music, or theater venues.
la corrida de toros
Bullfighting has an ancient pedigree: it stems from the Roman tradition of making things fight other things for fun. Back in the day, there were man versus man fights, tiger versus man fights, tiger versus bull fights, and any number of other permutations. While a tiger versus man fight in this day and age would likely cause a small riot, for some reason bullfights are still quite popular. Bullfighting has had its detractors throughout the ages: Pope Pius X declared bullfighting forbidden, but not for the reason you might think. No, the Pope was worried about the immortal souls of the matadors who were voluntarily risking their lives. Later in Spain’s history, Dictator Francisco Franco deemed bullfighting one of the true Spanish sports and greatly fostered its growth. Most people believed that Franco’s support would be the death knell of the bullfighting following after the end of his rule: however, for some reason it continued on, bloody as ever. Today, the president of Spain, Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero, has banned children younger than 14 from even viewing the bullfights, and banned its broadcasts on public television. Since the bull is traditionally killed within the ring in Spain, this seems a valid opposition.
If you’re really squeamish about this kind of thing, you could go to Portugal, where the bulls are never killed in the arena—they’re moved off-site first. If you’re just kind of squeamish, we would suggest leaving before the matador is awarded his trophy of an ear, a hoof, or perhaps a tail—the skill of the matador is positively correlated with the number of body parts awarded. On a related note, bull tail is a delicacy in Spain, said to be of a consistency resembling gelatin.
Corridas de Toros Bullfights
Whether you see it as animal torture or as national sport, the spectacle of la corrida, or bullfighting, is a cherished Spanish tradition. Although it has its origins in earlier Roman and Moorish practices, today it’s considered Spain’s sport, and some of the top toreros, or bullfighters, are true celebrities in Spain. The bullfight has three stages. First, the picadores, lancers on horseback, pierce the bull’s neck muscles. T
hen, assistants thrust decorated darts called banderillas into the bull’s back to slightly injure and tire it. Finally, the matador kills his large opposition with a sword in between the bull’s shoulder blades, instantly causing its demise. The best place to see bullfighting in Madrid is at the country’s biggest arena, Plaza de las Ventas, where you can buy tickets in sol or sombra (sun or shade) sections. Get your tickets at the arena the Friday and Saturday leading up to the bullfight. (C. Alcalá 237 913 56 22 00 www.las-ventas.com Ventas Ticket office open 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.) You’ll pay more to sit out of the sun, but either way you’ll have a good view of the feverish crowds who cheer on the matador and wave white handkerchiefs called pañuelos after a particularly good fight. Bullfights are held on Sundays and holidays throughout most of the year. During the Fiesta de San Isidro in May, fights are held almost every day, and the top bullfighters come face to face with the fiercest bulls.
Flamenco
CARDAMOMO
C. de Echegaray, 15
PUERTA DEL SOL
91 369 07 57 www.cardamomo.es
For classic flamenco in the middle of a nightlife hub, check out Cardamomo. Offering nightly shows at 10:30pm, Cardamomo is a great place to start an evening of barhopping on C. de Echegaray. Check online for show times, performers, and special events.
Sol. Walk east toward Plaza de las Cortes, and make a right on C. de Echegaray. Tickets €10-15. Check with your hostel for discounts. Nightly shows 10:30pm.
LAS TABLAS
Plaza de España, 9
GRAN VÍA
91 542 05 20 www.lastablasmadrid.com
Las Tablas offers authentic flamenco at lower prices than some of the other nearby establishments. Located at the corner of C. Bailen and Cuesta San Vicente, it’s the perfect place to stop and experience some Spanish culture after a day shopping along Gran Vía.
Pl. de España. Head to the far end of the plaza. Tickets €24; includes 1 drink. Shows M-Th 10:30pm, F-Sa at 8pm and 10pm, Su 10:30pm.
Fútbol
Fútbol games are a beloved tradition throughout Spain but especially in Madrid. Fans of Real Madrid line the streets and pack into bars to watch the match. If the team wins, celebrations continue until early the next morning. For the best fútbol experience, head to Estadio Santiago Bernabeu. Tickets to games in this massive stadium will be steep (€50-100) unless you can find discounts. Tickets for Atlético and Getafe, two other local teams, are a bit cheaper.
ESTADIO SANTIAGO BERNABEU
Av. Cochina Espina, 1
FÚTBOL STADIUM
91 464 22 34 www.santiagobernabeu.com, www.realmadrid.com
Site of the 2010 European Final Cup, Estadio Santiago Bernabeu is also home to the Real Madrid fútbol team, named the greatest club of the 20th century by FIFA. Come watch a match and feel the tumultuous energy of the crowd as it cheers on its beloved home team. Come early, as navigating your way through this humongous stadium is almost impossible. During the summer, tours of this massive stadium are available.
Santiago Bernabeu. Stadium is across the street from the metro station. Tours €15, under 14 €10. Check online for tour times and dates.
Festivals
FIESTAS DE SAN ISIDRO
C. de Alcalá, 237
SALAMANCA
www.esmadrid.com/sanisidro
From mid-May to early June there are bullfights almost every day at Plaza de las Ventas, where some of the best bullfighters in Spain come to battle some of the country’s fiercest bulls.
May 15-early June.
MADRID CARNIVAL
The week before Lent, Madrid celebrates with a Mardi Gras-esque spectacle of parades, costume parties, and extravagant masks. There is also a tradition called “The Burial of the Sardine,” in which participants decked out in black cloaks and hats walk through the streets with a coffin containing an effigy of a dead sardine. Don’t understand? Neither do we, but it’s seriously awesome.
Feb 18-25, 2011.
FIESTAS DE SAN LORENZO
www.fiestasdesanlorenzo.com
August is the traditional month for festivals in Madrid. During the Fiestas de San Lorenzo in mid-August, madrileños celebrate with dancing in the streets, processions, and outdoor concerts. Check online for specific activities and times.
Varies.
NOCHEVIEJA
PUERTA DEL SOL
To ring in the new year, hundreds of madrileños gather at Madrid’s version of Times Square, Puerta del Sol, to watch the ball drop from the clock tower. Instead of counting down, the clock chimes 12 times to represent good fortune for the 12 upcoming months of the year. According to tradition, you’re supposed to eat a grape at every toll and drink at midnight.
Sol. Dec 31.
El Rastro
If you’re in town on a Sunday, don’t miss El Rastro, the biggest and most frantic flea market in Madrid. Beginning at Pl. Cascorro off C. Toledo and ending at the bottom of C. Ribera de Cortidores, rows of vendors in makeshift stalls set up outside permanent shops to pawn off their goods. From modern art and handmade trinkets to international clothing and knock-off jewelry and fragrance, Let’s Go imagines you can pretty much buy anything your heart desires at this Spanish bazaar. Locals and tourists swarm this market, so come in the early hours to beat the heat and avoid the crowds from 9am-3pm. Buyers beware: this market is notorious for pickpockets. Stay alert, don’t bring anything flashy, and guard your valuables. Always keep your hand on your bag while walking. After haggling for that used paella recipe book, drift to the Plaza Mayor for lunch and more shopping or the Plaza de Tirso de Molina for cheerful flower stands and fountains.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Start off at the Madrid Tourism Centre in Plaza Mayor (91 588 16 36 www.esmadrid.com), where you can get city and transit maps as well as suggestions for activities, food, and accommodations. English and French are spoken at most tourist offices located throughout the city and can be incredibly helpful in planning your day. Additional tourist offices and stands are all over the city, labeled by large orange stands with exclamation marks.
• TOURS: Different themed tours leave regularly from the Madrid Tourism Centre. For dates, times, and more information visit www.esmadrid.com. Also, many youth hostels host tapas tours, pub crawls, and walking tours for reasonable prices and are great for meeting people and finding awesome food in the process. Check out www.toursnonstop.com for tours ( €10 tapas and pub tours). Run by historian and writer Stephen Drake-Jones, the Wellington Society offers different themed tours of Madrid and day excursions to places like Toledo and Segovia ( 609 143 203 www.wellsoc.org). Another option is Madrid Vision (91 779 18 88 www.madridvision.es), which runs the double-decker red buses that you see throughout the city. You can choose between the historicó and moderno routes, each making 15-20 stops throughout the city ( €17; certain discounts available online).
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: The easiest place to change your money is the airport. You can also change your money in stations in both Puerta Del Sol and Gran Vía (see booths that say “change”), but try to use these as a last resort, as rates are bad and commission charges are high. Most hostals and hotels will also be able to change your money, with rates varying by location.
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Store your luggage at the Aeropuerto Internacional de Barajas (91 393 68 05 1-day €3.70; 2-15 days €4.78 per day. Open 24hr.) or at the bus station ( €1.40 per bag per day; open M-F 6:30am-10:30pm, Sa 6:30am-3pm).
• POST OFFICES: Buy stamps (sellos) from a post office or tobacco stand (yellow/ brown sign). Madrid’s central post office is at Plaza de Cibeles (91 523 06 94; 902 19 71 97 Open M-F 8:30am-9:30pm.) Post boxes are usually yellow with one slot for “Madrid” and another for everywhere else.
• POSTAL CODE: 28008.
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: In case of a medical emergency, dial 061 or 112. For non-emergency medical concerns, go to Unidad Medica Angloamericana, which has English speaking
personnel on duty by appointment. (C. del Conde de Aranda, 1, 1st fl. 914 35 18 23 Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 10am-1pm.)
• POLICE: Servicio de Atención al Turista Extrarijero (SATE) are police who deal exclusively with tourists and help with contacting embassies, reporting crimes, and canceling credit cards. (C. Legantos, 19 915 48 85 27; 902 102 112 Open daily 9am-midnight.)
Getting There
By Plane
All flights come in through the Aeropuerto Internacional de Barajas (902 404 704 www.aena.es). The Barajas metro stop connects the airport to the rest of Madrid. ( €2.) The Bus-Aeropeurto 200 leaves from the national terminal T2 and runs to the city center through the Avenida de America metro station (902 50 78 50 Every 15min. 5:20am-11:30pm.) Taxis are readily available outside of the airport, and it takes about 30min. and €35 to get to the city center. For more information on ground transport, check out www.metromadrid.es.