Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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SIGHTS
The sights of Granada are unlike any other you’ll visit in Spain. Rather than a simple checklist of museums, churches, and monuments (although Granada does have quite the impressive array of those as well), Granada’s history can be explored by just grabbing a map and wandering around the different historic barrios of the city. You’ll find a unique vibe in the Albaicin and Sacramonte, get a taste of the Spanish history around the Cathedral, and find yourself in complete awe as you make your way around the Alhambra.
Plaza Nueva
CASA-MUSEO FREDERICO GARCIA LORCA
C. Virgen Blanca s/n
MUSEUM, PARK
958 258 466 www.huertadesanvicente.com
Probably one of Granada’s best spots for a picnic or a morning jog (there are signs posted all around recommending stretching and toning exercizes), the entirety of Parque Frederico Garcia Lorca smells of the roses that line its paths. Whether you want to sit at the duck pond or enjoy one of the two restaurants in the park, you cannot leave without stopping at the main event. The Casa-Museo Frederico Garcia Lorca is the original summer house of the famous Spanish poet, playwright, and director who was assassinated after his disappearance during the Spanish Civil War. This emblem of Granadan culture is now honored in the home where he found some of his greatest inspiration. You can tour his kitchen, his grand piano, and his desk of work and even see his high-school diploma, which rats out his barely passing grades.
Take the circular bus to the intersection of C. Recogidas and Camino de Ronda and follow the signs. Tours available in English and Spanish. €3, students €1, W free. Open Tu-Su July-Aug 10am-2:30pm; Oct-Mar 10am-12:30pm and 4-6:30pm; Apr-June and Sept 10am-12:30pm and 5-7:30pm.
Alhambra
In 1238, Sultan Al-Ahmar of the Nasrid Dynasty took a look around Granada and realized that he had an opportunity to make something of the old alcazaba in the Albayzin area, an already centuries-old fortress with foundations constructed by the Romans. Al-Ahmar had a vision of turning this protective city wall into a palace and getaway for Arab royalty and top government officials. However, by 1491, Granada wasn’t a princely paradise but a scrappy survivor. It was all that remained of the kingdom of al-Andalus, and los reyes Católicos were sieging the city in what would become the final act of the 780-year Reconquista. By 1492, Granada belonged to Ferdinand and Isabella, and we’re sure that once all-powerful Isabella saw the this city’s Alhambra, she decided that the couple was never going to leave this place.
For details on Granada map, click here
Today, we definitely need to give a big thank you to good old Al-Ahmar (much more interesting than Weird Al or that creepy Uncle Al) for creating the Alhambra, one of the most historic and symbolic sights in all of Spain. It’s the government’s biggest moneymaker—Sagrada Familia has a higher income, but it loses tons to renovations—and it will soon be one of your favorite spots on the map. When visiting the Alhambra, be prepared to devote a good 3½-4hr. to your visit, as there is a ton to see. The Alhambra isn’t simply a single sight—it’s a fortified city full of gardens, museums, towers, and baths, not to mention a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There are a few ways to get tickets to the Alhambra. (C. Real s/n 902 441 221 www.alhambra-patronato.es €12.) To purchase your ticket in advance, inquire at any of the La Caixa dispensers around the city, including one at the Tienda de la Alhambra (C. Reyes Católicos, 40 902 888 001 www.alhambra-tickets.es). Many hostels will also book tickets for you at an additional charge of €2. You can buy tickets on the day of your visit at the entrance, either at the ticket office or the automated machines in the Access Pavilion. The ticket office is open from 8am until 1hr. before close.
The general daytime tickets allow access to all sights on the grounds—either in the morning ( 8:30am-2pm.) or in the afternoon. ( Mar 15-Oct 14 2-8pm; Oct 15-Mar 14 2-6pm.) An evening ticket includes access to the gardens or Nasrid palaces, but not both, for €12 as well. ( Mar 15-May 31 and Sept 1-Oct 14 Th-Sa 10-11:30pm; Oct 16-Nov 14 F-Sa 8-9:30pm.) These later visits allow you to see the Alhambra when the grounds are lit up against the night sky.
NASRID PALACES
Once on the grounds, the Nasrid Palaces are definitely the hot spot of the Alhambra. They’re so hot, in fact, that you have to pick a specific time slot upon which to enter when purchasing your ticket to the Alhambra. You’re limited to 1hr. of exploration, and there’s a ton to see, so be ready for quite the journey through these remarkable grounds. Making your way through the Sala de la Barca, Salon de Comares, and Sala de las Albencerrajes, you’ll be impressed by the detailed original plasterwork curving and winding its way up to the tall pointed ceilings of the rooms. The turquoise, yellow, and green tiles add a splash of lovely color to these once-royal rooms. Remember that the lion is king of the jungle and the Patio de los Leones is definitely the ruling architectural spot in the entire Alhambra. A complex system of aqueducts used gravity to power this fountain (and all the plumbing of the Alhambra), and such creativity and technical prowess blew the conquering Catholic royalty “out of the water.” (Yeah, we went there.)
PALACIO DE CARLOS V
Museo de Bellas Artes
Museo del Alhambra
958 895 430 www.museosdeandalucia.es
902 441 221 museo.pag@juntadeandalucia.es
While the Palacio de Carlos V is often referred to as the “unfinished” and thus “forgotten” palace, there are definitely memories to be made here. At this 16th-century Renaissance-style palace, you’ll not only get to explore the striking circular courtyard with two stories of marble columns, but you can also enjoy the two museums on the grounds.
The Museo de Bellas Artes is Granada’s main art museum and actually the oldest public museum in Spain. The exhibitions begin in the historic year of 1492—yes, yes, it’s the year when Columbus salled the ocean blue, but it’s also the year when Granada shifted from Arab to Catholic control—and make their way into the modern day. There’s a lot of local pride going on, from works by Granada natives to works inspired by the city itself. The museum also holds temporary rotating multimedia exhibits.
Also in the palace is the Museo del Alhambra, which holds a wide breadth of information and objects from the Alhambra itself. Luckily, since Ferdinand and Isabella settled into the Alhambra in the 15th century, all of the decorations, building elements, and possessions of the royal couple have been preserved and moved around the palaces. But now it’s come time to share the spotlight—the museum, in development since 1940, now houses one of the world’s best collections of Spanish-Moorish and Nasrid art.
Museo de Bellas Artes €1.50, EU students free. Museo del Alhambra free. Palacio box office open daily Mar-Oct 8am-7pm; Nov-Feb 8am-5pm. Museo de Bellas Artes open Mar-Oct Tu 2:30-8pm, W-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 9am-2:30pm; Nov-Feb Tu 2:30-6pm, W-Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-2:30pm. Museo del Alhambra open July 1-Sept 15 Tu-Su 8:30am-2pm; Sept 16-June 30 Tu-Su 8:30am-2:30pm.
ALCAZABA
The Alcazaba is largely to thank for the survival of the sight you’re enjoying today. This fortress was definitely hard to get around (especially when traveling by donkey and wearing cloth slippers), and it protected the Alhambra for hundreds of years. However, today you can go where all those would-be conquerers wanted to be. Climb the Torre del Cubo, Torre de Homenaje, and Torre de la Vela to survey your kingdom: you’ll be lost in the panoramic views of all of Granada, snapping pictures of the hundreds of thousands of tiled rooftops extending into the horizon.
GENERALIFE
The Generalife was definitely built for a king—or should we say a sultan? Constructed between the 12th and 14th centuries, this maze of gardens, patios, and fountains was intended to be the sultan’s place of rest. And it’s not all just nature up here. You’ll also enter the stunning royal villa, decorated with the beautifully detailed plasterwork, as well as the outdoor theater where the dance portion of the annual Festival Internacional de Música y Danza is held. You’ll climb the escalera de agua, a staircase lined with
laurel trees and streams of water running down either handrail, and exit through the Promenades of Oldeander and Cypress Trees. And in case your eyes weren’t already aesthetically overwhelmed, you can also look down over the entire Alhambra below.
Albaicín Albayzín
The history and conceptualization of the Albaicín barrio may seem a little conflicted: some say that the name of this ancient Muslim barrio could translate to “the miserables” in Arabic; others proudly explain that this quarter is actually the oldest, most historic portion of Granada, where the first Muslim court of the city was established in the 11th century. Today, the romantic Albaicín area, dipping into a valley that will send back a booming echo if you shout from the right place along Calle Santa Ana, still holds strong remnants of its Muslim past. Despite later alterations by Ferdinand and Isabella, this UNESCO World Heritage Site still has a Nasrid-style flair.
OLD MUSLIM BARRIO
C. del Darro, 41
958 225 640
The signs that you’ve entered this area are subtle at first. Walking the streets, you’ll start to notice churches like the Iglesia de Santa Anat that have oddly mosque-like entrances. Walking up C. Carmen de Darro, you can enter the buñuelos, or Arab baths. (958 027 800 Open Tu-Sa 10am-2pm. Free.) These are now a public monument. You can freely explore the carmens, or classic patio-gardens of the wealthy, at Casa del Chapiz on C. Cuesta del Chapiz and discover a whole new way of showing off your wealth (nothing was flashier than a snazzy garden with citrus trees and a few bamboo shoots). Along Carmen de Darro or Cuesta de Acahaba, you can visit the original city walls of Granada that once protected last sultan Boabdil’s five Granadan castles. In the marketplace of Plaza Larga, you’ll encounter the Puerta de Pesa. Notice the remaining weights hanging from this entryway—they were once used as a warning and reminder to merchants that consequences awaited if they were to cheat the customers of the marketplace. While a few remain to sustain the warning (so yes, you really did just buy three kilos of pomegranates), most of the weights have today been moved to the Albaicín’s Archeological Museum, along with many other pieces of Granada’s history
€1.50, EU citizens free. Open Tu 2:30-8:30pm, W-Sa 9:30am-8:30pm, Su 9:30am-2pm.
Sacromonte
Let’s look at those monthly bills: rent, electricity, plumbing, heat. It all really adds up. But you know what’s a cheaper option? Digging yourself a cave in the mountains across from the Alhambra. That must have been the thought process (more or less) of the Indian gypsies who dug into the mountainside when arriving on the Iberian peninsula in the 15th century. While they were living comfortably for centuries along the Río del Darro, the boom came when the lower classes packed their bags for Sacromonte between the late 19th and mid-20th century—by 1950 there were 3682 known cave dwellings along the mountainside.
But a genius for econonomical living wasn’t the only talent these gypsies had. Walking the Camino del Sacromonte, you’ll come across flamenco bar after flamenco bar, all ready to present the gypsy zambra style of this famous dance. You can also stop in at the museum honoring zambra and one of its top performers, Cueva Maria la Canastera (Camino de Sacromonte, 89 958 121 183 cuevacanastera@yahoo.es).
MUSEO CUEVAS DE SACROMONTE
Barranco de los Negros s/n
MUSEUM, CAVES
958 215 120 www.sacromontegranada.com
In this museum, you’ll get to see many of the original, though restored, cave dwellings—and they look surprisingly cozy. They might be dug-in holes, but you’ll see stables, kitchens, bedrooms, and workspaces all comfortably kept up in these small, manmade caves. You’ll also learn about the unique ecology of the Darro River Valley, which houses La Alhambra on one bank and Sacromonte on the other, and get an awesome view of this unbeatable duo.
€5. Open daily Apr-Oct 10am-2pm and 5-9pm; Nov-Mar 10am-2pm and 4-7pm.
HOLY CAVE
At the Abadía del Sacromonte
CAVE, RELIGIOUS SITE
Sacromonte, or “holy mountain,” is named such because of years of myth and legend. The holiest of these myths centers on the appropriately named Holy Cave, where a pile of ashes, supposedly being those of Granada’s patron saint, San Cecilio, were discovered along with some leaden books suggesting the best means of converting Muslims to Catholicism. It was thought that the books were written by the saint. When Ferdinand and Isabella got word of this cave, they invested huge sums to create the via crucis, a line of over 1000 crosses along the mountain. Today, even though the legends have been proven false—the leaden books were actually written by a random Moorish scholar and are now stored in the Abadía del Sacromonte—the mountain remains a religious emblem and the Procession to Sacromonte is held on the first Sunday in February each year to honor San Cecilio.
Catedral Quarter
CATEDRAL DE GRANADA
C. Gran Vía de Colon, 5
CHURCH
958 222 959
Queen Isabella grew up in a nunnery, so it only makes sense that she’d put one hell of a church in her favorite city (should we not be saying “hell” in the same sentence as “church”?). The Catedral de Granada, formerly connected to the Capilla Real where Isabella is actually burried, is a massive, circular building lined with 13 golden capillas, or chapels, all of which are the Capilla Mayor in the center of the church outshines. This sanctuary, surrounded by multiple organs and thick marble pillars (you’d need at least three people to give them a good hug), was definitely made for presentation’s sake. It looks more like a theater than a church—two levels of balconies and stained-glass windows are the backdrop for the enormous red-carpeted altar in front. You’ll also get to visit the Sacristía when entering the Catedral, which stores religious artwork and artifacts from centuries of Catholic royalty in Granada.
Entrance on C. Oficios. Information in Spanish only. €3.50. Audio tour €3. Open M-Sa 10:45am-1:30pm and 4-8pm, Su 4-8pm. Ticket office closes 15min. before close.
FOOD
Food in Granada takes on three main types: Spanish-Granadan (think bold cuisine—tortrilla sacramonte is scrambled up with marrow, brains, and bull’s testicles), North African, and Mediterranean. Everyone will have their favorite falafel spot that they can’t name but can loosely direct you toward as well as their idea of the best teteria, or Arabic tea shop, packed with people sitting on cushions and sharing puffs of hookah. The tapas of Granada are what will really make you never want to leave—order a drink at any tapas bar and they’ll bring it out with a selection of free small plates of food.
Plaza Nueva
BAR KIKI
Pl. de San Nicolas, 9
TAPAS, BAR
958 276 715
You’re sitting enjoying your view from Pl. de San Nicolas when you notice booming conversation from your peripheral. That’s definitely Bar Kiki—unless some hippie vendors are getting extra chatty. The huge tented patio out front is always packed with locals, who come for the creative menu that uses fresh products purchased at the local Mercado Daria. Kiki serves up massive rations intended to be split between two people (€14-20). Their specialty, Solomillo Nacional, celebrates Granada’s Moorish influence with a hefty slab of tenderloin topped with almonds, apples, dates, raisins, and a reduction of sweet Pedro Ximenez wine (€20). If the market has fresh tuna that day, you’ll be lucky to get a free tapa of Atun de Barbate, fish marinated with olive oil, white wine, onions, and almonds, alongside a big mug of beer (€2) or a glass of Spanish wine (€3).
Located right behind the viewpoint at Pl. de San Nicolas. Plates for 2 €14-20. Beer €2. Wine €3. Open M-Tu 10am-midnight, Th-Su 10am-midnight.
CASA LOPEZ CORREA
C. de los Molinos 5
TAPAS
958 223 775
You might be caught off guard when walking into Casa Lopez Correa. It smells Spanish, but it looks Granadan. It’s serving free tapas, but most of the patrons are speaking English. First off: this is not a tourist trap! Casa Lopez Correa just happens to be the stand-in “town
bar” for all the Aussies, Brits, Kiwis, and Americans who decided to settle down in Granada. The crowd is likely inspired by the British owners: the wife works behind the stove and the husband works the bar, each preparing the house specialties. The worldly options are homemade and include Italian, English, Moroccan, and Spanish dishes. The menú of the day (2 courses €10; 3 courses €12) involves massive portions whose fragrances pour out from the open kitchen into the small restaurant. The extensive cocktail selection is especially impressive as there’s not a syrup in sight, and all the mojitos, caipirinhas, and margaritas are made with fresh fruits and quality liquors (€6). The tapa you get alongside these beverages is a hefty sampling of the menú’s daily special.
From Pl. Isabel La Catolica, take C. Pavaneras until it curves into C. de los Molinos to the right. Appetizers €3.50-7.50; entrees €7.50-9.50. Mid-size rations €5-10. Beer €1.70. Wine €2.10. Open M-F noon-4pm and 8pm-1am, Sa 8pm-1am, Su 1-5pm with reservation only.
Catedral and University
POE