Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 208
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 092.
• POLICE: Police are located at the Ayuntamiento. (Pl. Mayor 979 88 02 59)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Pharmacies are located on Pl. Mayor (Pl. Mayor, 14 979 88 02 59) and C. la Rúa (C. la Rúa, 4 979 88 03 33).
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Centro médico (Pl. Conde de Garay 979 88 02 45)
Getting There
By Bus
Buses stop in front of Bar España in the town’s eastern end, a 2min. walk up C. de Santa María from the Plaza Mayor. Buses arrive from Bilbao ( 3½hr., M-Sa 9:15am €15.26.), Burgos ( 1¼hr., M-Sa 11:30am €5.36.), León ( 2hr., Su-F 3:15pm €8.49.), and San Sebastián. ( 5½hr., M-F 7:10am, Su 7:10am €13.89.)
Getting Around
Walking is the easiest way to get around this small town. There is also a taxi stand at Pl. de Santa María (979 88 04 14).
león
987
León (pop. 165,000) is the last major city along the Camino de Santiago before the final stop of Santiago de Compostela itself. Though the old city retains vestiges of the Romans and the Middle Ages, the modern city that surrounds it has broad avenues and a cosmopolitan feel. The city’s name (originally Legio in Latin, but changed over time to León) means “lion,” and its inhabitants are appropriately proud of their city and identity, having been known to take down the occasional gazelle. The Roman walls still stand in part today, and the once heavily fortified city was a launching point for the knights of the Reconquista. The city is best known for its spectacular cathedral and its infamously boisterous nightlife.
ORIENTATION
León’s bus station and RENFE train station are located on the west side of the Río Bernesga, while the rest of the city is to the east. The Avenida Ordoño II runs directly east from the river to the mainly pedestrian casco antiguo, where it goes through the Plaza Santo Domingo and becomes Calle Ancha, the casco’s main street. To the north of C. Ancha is the walled part of the city, with the Cathedral and Basílica de San Isidoro. To the south is the barrio húmedo (“humid neighborhood”) the main nightlife area, where the Plaza Mayor and Plaza San Martín can be found.
ACCOMMODATIONS
León has a fair number of inexpensive hostals and pensiones located between the old town and the river, especially around Av. de Roma, Av. de Ordoño II, and Av. de la República Argentina. They tend to fill up very quickly from June-Sept, so try to reserve rooms in advance, especially on weekends.
PENSIÓN BLANCA
C. Villafranca, 2, 2A (3rd fl.)
B and B
987 25 19 91 www.pensionblanca.com
Large, brightly decorated rooms with high ceilings and clean wooden floors just steps from the main street between the river and the casco antiguo. Free breakfast and internet access keep guests happy, and daily newspapers will keep you up on current events in Spain and abroad.
Just off Av. de Ordoño II, 2 blocks from the river. Breakfast included. Shared bath. Kitchen. Laundry €7. Singles €22, with bath €27; doubles €35, with bath €43; triples €55, extra bed €12. Reception open daily 9am-11pm.
HOSTAL OREJAS
C. República Argentina, 28
HOSTAL
987 25 29 09 www.hostal-orejas.es
Big, white rooms with large beds, private bathrooms, and cable TVs make this two-star hostal a pricier option but worth every penny. Make sure to book a room away from the seasonal construction directly across the street.
Entrance on C. Villafranca, 8. From Av. de Ordoño II heading toward casco antiguo, right onto C. Villafranca. All rooms with private bath. Laundry service available. Singles €26-45; doubles €43-56; triples €53-69. Breakfast in restaurant €2.50; lunch and dinner €10. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
In addition to its Catedral—every Spanish city’s mandatory sight—and the Basílica de San Isidoro, visitors to León can see the Casa de Botines (at the far west end of C. Ancha, next to Pl. de Santo Domingo; now a bank), one of Gaudí’s few buildings outside of Cataluña, the Convento de San Marcos, a gorgeous palace on Pl. San Marcos converted into a luxury hotel, and several museums including the Museo de León (Pl. Santo Domingo Open Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-7pm, July-Sept also Su 10am-2pm, €1.20, free weekends) and the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo.
REAL COLEGIATA DE SAN ISIDORO
Pl. de Santo Martino, 15
CHURCH
987 87 61 61 www.sanisidorodeleon.org
The Basílica de San Isidoro is beautiful inside and out, but the real attraction here is the Panteón Real, dating back to the 11th century and housing some of the original Kings of Leon. The museum upstairs has an impressive collection of reliquaries and other religious artwork and paraphernalia, while the tombs downstairs are the final resting places of 23 kings and queens, 12 infantas, and 9 counts, watched over by the 12th-century Romanesque paintings on the ceiling. While the basilica offers a guided tour, Let’s Go recommends picking up a pamphlet at the information counter, giving yourself a tour, and saving a ton of time.
From C. Ancha, left onto C. del Cid to Pl. de San Isidoro. Basílica free. Museum €4, free Th afternoon. Open July-Aug M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 9am-2pm; Sept-June M-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 4-6:30pm, Su 10am-1:30pm. Hourly guided tours in Spanish.
FOOD
The casco antiguo is jam packed with restaurants, bars, and cafes, especially around the Pl. Mayor and Pl. de San Martín. Outside the casco, there are plenty of restaurants along C. Renueva, the pedestrian C. Burgo Nuevo and Pl. Pícara Justina, and along Av. de los Reyes Leoneses near MUSAC. In most Leonese bars, you’ll receive some free tapas with your drink, so many just bar-hop instead of ordering a menú—three or four drinks can usually get you the equivalent of a full meal—and maybe a buzz.
RÚA NOVA
C. Renueva, 17
LEONESE
987 24 4 61
This lively bar and restaurant is on the restaurant-lined C. Renueva just two blocks from the basílica de San Isidoro and the casco antiguo. Leonese cuisine tends to be heavy on the pork, and Rúa Nova follows suit by serving a mean ración of jamón asado (grilled ham; €8.10).
From Pl. de Santo Domingo, follow Av. de Padre Isla 7 blocks, then turn right on C. Renueva. Menú €11. Entrees €8-16. Open M 7:30pm-midnight, Tu-Sa 12:30-4pm and 7:30-midnight, Su 12:30-4pm.
EL VALENCIANO
Pl. de Santo Domingo
DINER
987 23 71 39
Perfectly located on the Pl. Santo Domingo where Av. Ordoño II becomes C. Ancha, El Valenciano serves fresh orange juice (€2) that comes with a free churro—a perfect start to a day full of sightseeing. Be wary of the afternoon lines sweating it out for their share of ice cream.
On the south side of Pl. de Santo Domingo. Coffee €1.20. Orange juice €2. Ice cream €1.60-3. Other food €3-9. Open daily 8am-midnight.
NIGHTLIFE
León’s best nightlife can be found in the casco antiguo, mainly around Pl. San Martín and Pl. Mayor in the neighborhood known as el barrio húmedo (“the wet neighborhood,” for all the alcohol there) south of C. Ancha. The other side of C. Ancha tends to be a little more laid-back, but Spaniards do take a walk on the wild side around Pl. Torres de Omaña, C. Cervantes, and C. del Cid.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The tourist office is hidden behind the Diputación on C. del Cid 1 block up C. Ancha toward the Catedral. (C. del Cid, 1 987 23 70 82 Open Sept 16-June M-Sa 9:30am-2pm and 4-7pm, Su 9:30am-5pm; July-Sept 15 M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 10am-8pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Banco Santander (Pl. de Santo Domingo 987 29 23 00 Open Apr-Sept M-F 8:30am-2pm; Oct-Mar M-F 8:30am-2pm, Sa 8:30am-1pm.)
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Storage available at the RENFE train station (€3) and bus station (€2).
• INTERNET ACCESS: Locutorio La Rua (C. Varillas, 3 987 21 99 94 Open M-F 9:30am-9:30pm, Sa 10:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-9pm. €1 per hr.)
• POST OFFICE: (Jardín de San Francisco 987 87 60 81, Open M-F8:30am-8:30pm, S
a 9am-1pm).
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112.
• POLICE: (Paseo del Parque 987 25 55 00)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital San Juan de Dios (Av. San Ignacio de Loyola, 73 987 23 25 00.)
Getting There
By Bus
Buses arrive at the bus station (Av. del Ingeniero Sáenz de Miera 987 21 10 00) across the river from Astorga ( 50min., M-F 17 per day 7am-10:30pm, Sa 8 per day 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 6 per day 11:50am-11:50pm. €3.30.), Barcelona ( 10hr., 3 per day 8:45am-10pm. €45.), Bilboa ( 5½hr., M-Sa at 9:15am. €23.75.), Burgos ( 2-3hr., M-Sa 4 per day 6:35am-5:25pm, Su 3 per day 6:35am-5:25pm. €13.85.), Logroño ( 4hr., 3 per day 4:35am-3:15pm. €16-19.), Madrid ( 3-4hr., M-F 18 per day 9am-12:30am, Sa-Su 14 per day 9am-11:30pm. €21-26.), San Sebastián ( 7hr., M-Sa at 7:40am. €28.47.), and Santiago de Compostela ( 6hr., daily at 8am. €26.41.).
By Train
Trains arrive at the RENFE station (C. Astorga 902 24 02 02), also on the other side of the river, right next to the bus station, or at the FEVE station (Av. del Padre Isla, 48 987 22 59 19). RENFE trains arrive from Barcelona ( 8hr., 3 per day 9:20am-8:45pm. €68.), Bilbao ( 5hr., daily at 9:15am. €30.), Burgos ( 2hr., 4 per day 12:10pm-4am. €20-37.), Madrid ( 3-4hr., 9 per day 6:50am-10:30pm. €33-43.), San Sebastián ( 5hr., daily at 9am. €33.20.), and Santiago de Compostela. ( 8hr., daily at 9:25am. €31.40.) FEVE trains arrive from Bilbao ( 7hr., daily at 2:30pm. €22.).
By Air
Flights arrive at León Airport 4mi. outside of the city from Madrid and Barcelona.
Getting Around
The easiest and cheapest way to get around is to walk. León has a bus system; bus #14 goes to the bus station, and #4 and #10 go to the RENFE train station. Taxi stands can be found at the Pl. Santo Domingo and along Av. Ordoño II, or call Radio Taxi (987 26 14 15).
astorga
987
Rising over the surrounding plain, Astorga (pop. 12,000) is the last major stop for Santiago-bound pilgrims before they hit the mountains like a caravan of steamrollers—or of tired pilgrims. Astorga has always been a crossroad: of silver-trading routes during Roman times, of pilgrimage trails during the Middle Ages, and of the A-6 and AP-71 today. The small old city is the renowned home of one of the few Gaudí buildings outside of Cataluña and also boasts a staggering rio of chocolate shops to square feet. In fact, Astorga may be the only city in Spain with more sweets shops than churches, and we bow down to its greatness. Those up to the challenge can try to eat one sugary treat from every store in town. C’mon. Let’s Go double-dog dares you.
ORIENTATION
Astorga is a small city with Roman and medieval historic sights situated around the edges of its old city. The Camino de Santiago cuts through the center of town, passing the Plaza de España, the city’s main square, at the eastern end and the Plaza de Eduardo de Castro at the northwest corner. The bus station (Av. de las Murallas, 52 987 61 91 00) is just outside the northwest corner of the old city, and the train station (Pl. de la Estación 987 84 21 22) is about a 15min. walk to the northeast. Many accommodations are located a short walk west of the old city, about 15min. west of the bus station along Av. de las Murallas, which becomes Av. de Ponferrada.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Inexpensive lodging is tough to come by in Astorga: there’s only one hostal and one pensión in the entire old city. However, there are three reasonably priced hostales and one pensión at the intersection of Av. de Ponferrada and the Carretera Madrid-Coruña, about a 15min. walk west of the historic center.
PENSIÓN GARCÍA
Bajada del Postigo, 3
PENSIÓN
987 61 60 46
One of the only affordable accommodations in the old city itself, this pensión sits on a sloping street in the southeast corner of town, where several sights and much of the nightlife are located. The rooms have low but wide beds and are filled with the delicious aromas that waft up from the affiliated restaurant below.
From Pl. de España, take C. de la Bañeza (to right of Ayuntamiento); it’s across from the playground. All rooms have shared bath. Make reservations in advance. Singles €20; doubles €30. Reception 8am-midnight.
HOSTAL SAN NARCISO
Ctra. Madrid-Coruña, km 325
HOSTAL
987 61 53 70
About a 15min. walk from the old town, this hostal has huge rooms at very reasonable prices. Apparently, the builders were so set on making the rooms as big as possible for you that they made the walls as thin as they could to maximize living space, so you’d better hope your neighbors don’t snore, smoke, or watch TV.
From the bus stop, take a right onto Av. de las Murallas, which passes through Pl. del Aljibe and becomes Av. de Ponferrada. Follow Av. de Ponferrada 5 blocks, then turn left before the gas station, and the hostal is across the street. Singles €20, with bathroom €25; doubles €30, with bathroom €35. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
Most of Astorga’s must-sees are located within the small old city, where monumental Roman walls still surround some of the town. The partially excavated Roman forum and baths are in the southeast corner, and the Museo Romano (Pl. San Bartolomé 987 61 69 37 Open June-Sept Tu-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 4-6pm, Su 10am-1:30pm; Oct-May Tu-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 5-7:30pm, Su 10am-1:30pm. €2.50.) is just a couple of blocks away by the Plaza de España. The monumental Cathedral and Palacio Episcopal are in the northwest corner.
PALACIO EPISCOPAL AND MUSEO DE LOS CAMINOS
Pl. de Eduardo de Castro
HISTORICAL SITE
987 61 68 82
From outside, the Palacio Episcopal (one of the few buildings outside of Cataluña designed by architect Antoni Gaudí, though those who have been to León probably think they’re everywhere) looks like a quirky medieval castle perched above the Roman wall. The interior is magnificent, including an open floorplan, ceramic-lined arches and doorways, and seemingly weightless walls that are in places made more of glass than of stone. Since 1963 Gaudí’s palace has housed the Museo de los Caminos, whose collection contains Paleolithic, Roman, and modern artifacts.
Just east of the Cathedral; from the bus station, cross the street, go through the small park and up the stairs, then turn left. €2.50, €4 entrada combinada available for Palacio Episcopal and Cathedral Museum (also €2.50). Open Oct-May Tu-Sa 11am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 11am-2pm; June-Sept 10am-2pm and 4-8pm, Su 10am-2pm.
FOOD
Astorga rose to prominence as the chocolate capital of Spain due to several factors: a cool, dry climate perfect for cocoa growth, an established network of trade routes, and, of course, the large local population of clergy and their notorious love of the sinful sweet. Since the 17th century, Astorga has been filled with chocolate factories (as many as 50 in 1914), and sweet shops line the streets of the old city today. Other local specialties are cecina (cured beef) and Maragato stew (chickpeas, potato, chorizo, cabbage, and various meats).
MUSEO DE CHOCOLATE
C. José María Goy, 5
DESSERT, MUSEUM
987 61 62 20
The Museo de Chocolate falls somewhere between the world’s most delicious museum and the world’s most informative desserterie. Redolent of fresh chocolate throughout, the museum is full of artifacts from Astorga’s historic chocolate industry and ends with a degustación: free samples of dozens of different types of chocolate. And they’re damn good, too: who would know chocolate better than a museum dedicated to it?
From Pl. de Eduardo de Castro (in front of Palacio Episcopal), head east 3 blocks along C. de los Sitios to Pl. Obispo Alcolea, then right onto C. José María Goy. €2, under 18 and over 65 €1, under 10 free. Open May-Sep Tu-Sa 10:30am-2pm and 4:30-7pm, Su 11am-2pm; Oct-Apr Tu-Sa 10:30am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 11am-2pm.
RESTAURANTE SERRANO
C. Portería, 2
ASTORGAN
987 617 866
This restaurant features maragato cuisine, the area’s traditional home cookin’. The specialty
is a cecina con foie (cured beef with foie; €16) that’s big enough for at least 2 and best accompanied with plenty of bread to cut the overpowering richness.
Take C. Portería from Pl. de la Catedral. Menú €12. Entrees €8-18. Open Tu-Su noon-4pm and 8-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Of the various things for which Astorga is known, nightlife cannot be considered one of them. What nightlife there is can be found on the east side of the old city, on C. de Gabriel Franco and C. de Rodríguez de Cela.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Oficina Municipal de Turismo has detailed maps of the city and schedules for all major sights, buses, and trains. (Pl. de Eduardo de Castro, 5 987 61 82 22 www.ayuntamientodeastorga.com From bus station, cross the street, walk through the small park and up the stairs; go between the Cathedral (the massive building to the right) and the Palacio Episcopal (the massive building to the left), and left in front of Palacio Episcopal. The office is across the street. Open Tu-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 4-6:30pm, Su 10am-1:30pm.