Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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From Pr. de Galicia, take R. do Doutor Teixeiro (follow street on right side of plaza with your back to old town) 2 blocks, then turn right onto R. da República Argentina. Beer €1.50-2. Open Th-Sa midnight-5am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Festivals
APÓSTOLO
Santiago de Compostela celebrates its patron saint’s feast day for a full two weeks known as Apóstolo, kicking off the party about a week before el Día de Santiago (St. James’ Day, July 25—especially holy when it falls on a Sunday, which will next be in 2021), the peak of the festivities. On the night of the 24th, las Vísperas de Santiago, fireworks and gaitas (traditional Galician-Celtic bagpipes) fill the Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral, while the botafumeiro (a giant incense-burner) swings within. July 25 is also Galicia Day (Día de la Patria Galega), and traditional music and dance fill the city.
Apóstolo July 16-31; Día de Santiago July 25.
Traditional Music and Dance
Thought bagpipes were limited to the British Isles and St. Patty’s Day parades? Not so. The gaita is a traditional Galician bagpipe, left by the Celts during their migration, and it’s just as irritating as its Highland cousin. Often heard on Santiago’s streets, particularly around the Pr. do Obradoiro (the archway to the left of the Cathedral is a popular spot) and in the Alameda park, these badboys are inescapable during every major festival. Galician folk music’s Celtic influences are obvious to the ear, and the best chance to dive into the Galician music scene is Festival del Mundo Celta de Ortigueira (www.festivaldeortigueira.com), a massive folk festival held every July in tiny Ortigueira. Throughout July, the Via Stellae Festival de Música (www.viastellae.es) takes place in Santiago and surrounding towns along the Camino; free music of all genres occurs at various venues throughout the city. ARTERIA Noroeste (R. das Salvadas, 2A, Parque Vista Alegre 981 56 90 82 www.arteria.com) performs music that generally slides along the jazz-to-Galician-folk spectrum. To get to the performance space, take bus #4 toward Cancelas or bus #C2 or C4 toward Fontiñas.
Traditional Galician dance is loud and lively and also reflects its Celtic origins—it looks sort of like a castanet-filled combination between an Irish jig and Andalusian flamenco. Demonstrations can be seen at the festivals, and sometimes at the Teatro Principal. (R. Nova, 21 981 54 23 47)
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Oficina Municipal de Turismo has maps and thorough information on accommodations, as well as a 24hr. interactive information screen outside. (R. do Vilar, 63 981 55 51 29 www.santiagoturismo.com On R. do Vilar 1 block toward Cathedral from Pr. do Toural. English, French, German, Portuguese, Italian, Galego, and other languages spoken. Open daily June-Sept 9am-9pm; Oct-May 9am-2pm and 4-7pm.) Oficina de Turismo de Galicia has information on the rest of Galicia, and on festivals. (R. do Vilar, 30 981 58 40 81 www.turgalicia.es On R. do Vilar between Pr. do Toural and Cathedral, on opposite side of street from Municipal Tourism Office but closer to Cathedral. Open M-F 10am-8pm, Sa 11am-2pm and 5-7pm, Su 11am-2pm.) Oficina del Xacobeo, in the same building, provides information on the Camino de Santiago. (R. do Vilar, 30 981 58 40 81 Open M-F 10am-8pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Banco Santander has Western Union services and a 24hr. ATM outside, and cashes American Express Travelers Cheques commission-free. (Pr. de Galicia, 1 981 58 61 11 On side of Pr. de Galicia to the right with your back to the old town. Open Apr-Sep M-F 8:30am-2pm; Oct-Mar Sa 8:30am-1pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Ciber Nova 50 has fast computers and pay phones. (R. Nova, 50 981 56 41 33 On R. Nova 1 block toward the Cathedral from Pr. do Toural. €0.45 for 12min., €2 per hour. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa-Su 10am-midnight.)
• ENGLISH-LANGUAGE BOOKS: Libraria Couceiro has several shelves of books in English. (Pr. de Cervantes, 6 981 56 58 12 www.librariacouceiro.com From Pr. de Galicia take R. das Orfas into old city; it becomes R. da Caldeirería, then R. do Preguntoiro, and the bookstore is immediately to the left on Pr. de Cervantes. Open M-F 10am-noon and 4-9pm, Sa 10am-noon and 5-9pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Correos has a Lista de Correos and fax. (R. das Orfas 981 58 12 52 www.correos.es Take Cantón do Toural from Pr. do Toural 2 blocks to R. das Orfas. Open M-F 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa 9am-2pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Policía Local. (Pr. do Obradoiro, 1 981 54 23 23 On Pr. do Obradoiro across from Cathedral.)
• MEDICAL SERVICES: Hospital Clínico Universitario has a public clinic across from the emergency room. (Tr. da Choupana 981 95 00 00 Take bus #1 from R. da Senra toward Hospital Clínico. Clinic open M-Sa 3-8pm, Su 8am-8pm.)
• PHARMACY: Farmacia R. Bescansa has been around since 1843—stop in to gawk at the classic 19th-century décor, even if you don’t need anything. (Pr. do Toural, 11 981 58 59 40.)
Getting There
By Bus
ALSA (913 27 05 40) runs buses from: Astorga ( €20. 5hr., 4 perday 4:15am-7:30pm.); Barcelona ( €68.80. 17hr., 3 per day 7am-8pm); Bilbao ( €50-53. 9-11hr., 4 per day 10:30am-1:45am.); Burgos ( €37. 8½hr., daily at 1:15pm.); León ( €26.50. 6hr., daily at 4:45pm); Madrid ( €40-60. 8-9hr.; M-Th 5 per day 7:30am-12:30am, F-Sa 4 per day 7:30am-12:30am.); and Salamanca ( €29.20. 6-7hr., M-F 3pm and 1:10am, Sa 5pm and 1:10am, Su 2 per day 3pm and 1:10am.).
By Train
RENFE trains arrive from: A Coruña ( €5-15. 40min., M-F 20 per day 5:45am-10:20pm, Sa 18 per day 6am-10pm, Su 17 per day 7am-10pm.); Bilbao ( €44.90. 11hr., daily at 9:15am.); Burgos ( €40. 8hr., daily at 12:11pm.); and Madrid ( €49. 7-9hr. M-Sa 2 per day 2:20-10:30pm, Su 2 per day 1:22-10:30pm.).
By Plane
Ryanair has inexpensive flights to Santiago’s Lavacolla Airport ( €2.50. 30min. bus from bus station or city center.) from: Alicante; Barcelona (El Prat); Barcelona (Reus); Madrid; Málaga; Frankfurt-Hahn; London-Stansted; and Rome. Iberia flies to Santiago from Bilbao, Sevilla, and Valencia.
Getting Around
Most of the old city is closed off to all but foot traffic, so the easiest way to get around is to walk. For those venturing farther afield, buses (€0.90, €0.55 with bono) are a good way to get around, though not particularly frequent on weekends. Bus #2 and #5 go to the bus station; bus #6 goes to the train station. Freire (981 58 81 11) runs buses (30min., €2.50) from R. do Doutor Teixeiro and the bus station to the airport. There are taxi stands at the bus and train stations and at Pr. de Galicia and Pr. Roxa. Otherwise, call Radio Taxi (981 56 92 92) or Eurotaxi (670 53 51 54).
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for visitors from all countries except EU citizens who can show their national ID
• VISA: Required for those who wish to stay longer than 3 months
• WORK PERMIT: Required for all foreigners planning to work in Spain (see Beyond Tourism).
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Spain is 1 hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Savings Time. During the summer, from the end of March until the end of October, time is shifted forward one hour (GMT + 2). This means that it is 6 hours ahead of New York City, 9 hours ahead of Los Angeles, 1 hour ahead of the British Isles, 8 hours behind Sydney, and 10 hours behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
Native Spaniards rarely tip more than their spare change, even at expensive restaurants. However, if you make it clear that you’re a tourist—especially an American—they might expect you to tip more. Don’t feel like you have to tip, the servers’ pay is almost never based on tips. No one will refuse your money, but you’re a poor student so don’t play the fool.
Bargaining is common and necessary in open-air and street markets. Especially if you are buying a number of things, like produce, you can probably get a better deal if you haggle. However, do not barter in malls or established shops.
Taxes
Spain has a 7-8% value added tax (IVA) on all means and accommodations. The prices listed in Let’s Go inc
lude IVA unless otherwise mentioned. Retail goods bear a much higher 16% IVA, although the listed prices generally include this tax. Non-EU citizens who have stayed in the EU fewer than 180 days can claim back the tax paid on purchases at the airport. Ask the shop where you have made the purchase to supply you with a tax return form, but stores will only provide them for purchases of more than €50-100.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
Travelers are not likely to break major laws unintentionally while visiting Spain. You can contact your embassy if arrested, although they often cannot do much to assist you beyond finding legal counsel. You should feel comfortable approaching the police, although few officers speak English. There are three types of police in Spain. The Policía Nacional wear blue or black uniforms and white shirts; they deal with crime investigation (including theft), guard government buildings, and protect dignitaries. The Policía Local wear blue uniforms, deal more with local issues, and report to the mayor or town hall in each municipality. The Guardia Civil wear olive green uniforms and are responsible for issues more relevant to travelers: customs, crowd control, and national security.
Drugs and Alcohol
Recreational drugs are illegal in Spain, and police take these laws seriously. The legal minimum drinking age is 16. Spain has the highest road mortality rates in Europe, and one of the highest rates of drunk driving deaths in Europe. Recently, Spanish officials have started setting up checkpoints on roads to test drivers’ blood alcohol levels (BAC). Look for new cautionary signs on the highways that display how many Spaniards have died recently from drunk driving. Do not drive while intoxicated, and be cautious on the road.
Specific Concerns
Natural Disasters
Apart from the occasional mild earthquake evey 200 years, there is little to fear from nature in Spain. However, it is worth noting that if more than an inch of snow falls, many cities will shut down totally and driving will be incredibly slow, as Spanish drivers will be freaked from the weather conditions.
Terrorism
Basque terrorism concerns all travelers in Spain, with the active presence of a militant wing of Basque serparatists called the Euskadi Ta Askatasuna (ETA; Basque Homeland and Freedom). In March 2006, ETA declared a permanent cease-fire that officially ended in June 2007. ETA’s attacks are generally targeted politically and are not considered random terrorist attacks that endanger regular civilians. The March 11, 2004 train bombings linked to al-Qaeda are viewed by Spaniards in the same way that Americans view September 11, and there is a monument in Madrid to those who died.
Pre-Departure Health
Matching a prescription to a foreign equivalent is not always easy, safe, or possible, so if you take prescription drugs, carry up-to-date prescriptions or a statement from your doctor stating the medications’ trade names, manufacturers, chemical names, and dosages. Be sure to keep all medication with you in your carry-on luggage.
Pharmacists in Spain often speak very good English and can help you find common over-the-counter drugs. The names for such drugs in Spanish are also quite similar to those in English. One difference you will notice is that the Spanish are fond of effervescents, and often drugs are delivered in the powder form that you dissolve into water.
spain 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
Spaniards are generally polite and courteous to foreigners. Even if your Spanish is a little rusty, don’t hesitate to speak in the native tongue—your efforts will be appreciated.
facts and figures
• POPULATION: 46.6 million
• AUTONOMOUS REGIONS: 17
• REGIONAL LANGUAGES: Catalan, Basque, and Galicia
• KILOMETERS OF BEACHES: Over 8,000
• NUMBER OF OLIVE TREES: Over 300 million
• SPANIARDS INTERESTED IN BULLFIGHTING IN 1977: 51%
• SPANIARDS INTERESTED IN BULLFIGHTING IN 2006: 27%
Taboos
Be aware that shorts and short skirts are not common in most parts of Spain, apart from the coasts. Wearing revealing clothing away from the beaches may garner unwanted attention or at the very least scream “I am a tourist!” Women with bare shoulders should carry a shawl to tour churches and monasteries, and it is considered disrespectful to wear shorts in these pious places.
Public Behavior
Spaniards tend to be very polite in mannerisms and social behavior, so in first encounters it’s a good idea to be as formal as possible. Be sure to address those you meet as Señor (Mr.), Señora (Mrs.), or Señorita (Ms.), and don’t be surprised if you get kissed on both cheeks in place of a handshake.
Tipping
Though a service charge is generally included in the check at bars and restaurants, an additional tip is common for good service: 5-10% will suffice. Taxi drivers and hotel porters will also expect small tips for their services.
FOOD AND DRINK
No immersion into Spanish culture would be complete without sampling the national cuisine, which is vibrant, varied, and inventive. Whether you’re looking for a meal based on tradition or trendy culinary dishes, Spain is filled with epicurean delights. One dish all visitors are obligated to try at least once is paella, a quintessentially Spanish mix of rice, vegetables, seafood, and meat. Along with oranges, the Mediterranean city of Valencia is known for its sumptuous paellas. Spain’s Mediterranean climate has played an important role in its culinary development; notably, its climate allows it to be the number one producer of olive oil in the world.
For a country smaller than the state of Texas, Spain has a large number of distinct regions, each with its own specialties. From the cold, tomato-based gazpacho soup in the hot southern climate of Andalucía, to calamar en su tinta (squid in its own ink) in northern País Vasco, each locality has a proud culinary tradition. One universal favorite are the ubiquitous tapas, or small, savory dishes served hot or cold, typically typically with drinks at bars. If you’re looking for something other than plain vino (wine) or cerveza (beer) to go with your tapas, a delicious Spanish option is sangria, a red-wine punch made with fruit, seltzer, and sugar.
TURKEY
istanbul
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
SHOPPING
ESSENTIALS
gallipoli and troy
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
ESSENTIALS
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
MONEY
SAFETY AND HEALTH
turkey 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
FOOD AND DRINK
Turkey is a land like no other. There is something for everyone—foodies will love sampling Turkish meze and desserts, history buffs will wander in awe through Istanbul’s palaces and places of worship, shopaholics will bargain-hunt in the immense bazaars and markets, party animals will dance their nights away in the clubs on İstiklal Avenue and in Ortaköy, hipsters will chatter their way through Beyoğlu’s burgeoning art scene, the homesick will hobnob with expats in Cihangir, and idlers will rest inside the city’s hamams. Take a ferry to the Asian side, at sunset. Learn about the city’s history. Find your own best way to avoid a raki hangover (a late-night çorba is a safe bet). Take a walk among the decrepit houses of Tarlabaşi or Fener. Pretend you’re rich or beautiful at Reina or another prestigious club in Ortaköy. Spend a day down at the Princes’ Islands, riding horse carriages or hiking up to a monastery. Voyage to Troy and Gallipoli, and mount your own assault where Agamemnon succeeded and Kitchener failed. Stay up all night and watch a sunrise over the misty Bosphorus. Whatever you wan
t to do, Turkey is waiting.
greatest hits
• BIKE PRINCES’ ISLANDS: Tour Heybeliada Island on two wheels, while enjoying its beaches, beer, and the beautiful vista of Istanbul (Princes’ Islands Kizil Adalar).
• GET STEAMED: Head to Sofular Hamami and experience a real Turkish bath (SOFULAR HAMAMI).
• EAT FRESH-OFF-THE-BOAT FISH: Go to Sidika for grilled octopus. If that’s too tentacle-y for your taste, get something else off their handwritten, chalkboard menu ( SIDIKA).
For details on Turkey map, click here
student life
Istanbul has plenty of ancient stuff to go around, but don’t look in the Hagia Sophia for local youth. You’ll find them at an art show in Beyoğlu or listening to the next big thing at Peyote in Taksim. Besiktas is also a great neighborhood to visit because of its popularity with nearby university students. You’ll be more likely to find local students here than in the discotecas.