Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide

by Harvard Student Agencies, Inc. ,

  Tophane. Walk uphill on Boğazkesen Cad. for 5min. The hostel will be on your right. Breakfast included. Dorms €9-12; singles €20; doubles €28, with bath €34; triples €36. Reception 24hr.

  CHILL OUT CENGO HOSTEL

  Halas Sok. 3

  HOSTEL

  212 251 3148 www.chillouthc.com

  Perhaps the most atmospheric of the five Chill Out hostels in Beyoğlu, Cengo is also the biggest. It features some innovative interior design—the stairs to some of the attic rooms look like something you’d encounter in an obstacle course. The furniture in the common rooms is very pleasant to sit on, but you can also choose to sit on the indoor swing. If this one is full, you can try the Chill Out Lya Hostel (Toprak Lüle Sok. 1 212 244 7400) or the Chill Out Hostel Classic (Balyoz Sok. 3A 212 249 4784), which is closer to Tünel and a bit more impersonal. All five Chill Out hostels have crazily painted stairs and affordable prices.

  From Taksim, walk down İstiklal, turn right after the Ağa Camii mosque, and continue down Atif Yilmaz. Take the 2nd left, and the hostel’s unmarked gate will be to your left. Dorms €15; singles €25; doubles €35. Reception 24hr.

  CHAMBERS OF THE BOHEME

  Küçük Parmakkapi Sok. 11/13

  HOSTEL

  212 251 0931

  Chambers of the Boheme has a great location for raiding bars in İstiklal, Çukurcuma, and Cihangir. The hostel’s style is more old-fashioned than alternative, but it’s nevertheless interesting: many private rooms, and even some of the dorm rooms, feature antique furniture. Guests get a 10% percent discount at the cafe on the ground level. Some website gave this place a “Best Hostel in Turkey” award in 2009, and the management equates this with winning an Oscar—we suggest you remain a bit skeptical.

  From Taksim, walk down İstiklal and take the 2nd left turn; the hostel will be to your left. Breakfast included. Dorms €15-18; 4-person family room €120. Reception 24hr.

  SOHO HOSTEL

  Süslü Saksi Sok. 5

  HOSTEL

  212 251 5866

  It’s not the neatest of hostels (there isn’t much space and the bathrooms can look a bit unappealing), but there’s a sense of free-spiritedness to its color and common room. It’s not one of the many bland, unmemorable hotels that clutter the streets in this area. Soho is one of the cheapest hostels near İstiklal Cad. and close to all the nightlife, so it can be a good base for sleeping and perhaps for connecting with similar-minded travelers.

  Taksim. From Taksim walk down İstiklal and take the fifth right turn (on İmam Adnan Sokak). Continue to the end and turn left, the hostel will be on your left side. Dorms €6-10; singles €20; doubles €34. Reception 24hr.

  SIGHTS

  Princes’ Islands Kizil Adalar

  Originally inhabited by monks and exiled aristocracy and later by wealthy merchants and writers, the Princes’ Islands are today a popular escape spot for locals and tourists who want to take a break from Istanbul’s busy streets. Of the nine islands, four have a daily ferry service to Istanbul, while the others are mostly uninhabited. Cars are not allowed on the islands, so people either walk, bike, or use faytons (horse-drawn carriages). These islands are not in the Caribbean—the paid beaches are often ugly, with limited sand, and overflowing with chaise lounges. If the traditional beach experience is what you’re after, you’ll be disappointed. However, there are fish restaurants, monasteries, forests, picnic areas, and hills overlooking the sea, so it’s worth the daytrip if you’re staying in Istanbul for at least a few days.

  The easiest way to get to the islands is to take a ferry from Kabataş. Ferries may stop in Kadiköy before continuing to Kiliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Büyükada. If you hop off at one island and then take a ferry to another one, you’ll have to pay the fare again. The ferry system is mildly confusing because there are three kinds of ferries with separate schedules that leave from Kabataş—IDO seabus, IDO passenger ferry, and Dentur Avrasya ferry. The first two are operated by IDO, cost 2.5TL per ride, and can be paid for with Akbil, but each differ in their speed and routes. While the seabus may take you straight to Büyükada in 35 min., the passenger ferry may take up to 1½hr. by stopping at the smaller islands first. The Dentur Avrasya ferry (212 227 7894 4TL one way, 6TL return ticket.) leaves from behind the gas station and is faster than the passenger ferry. Free schedules are available at the ferry terminals—consult them so that you don’t miss the last ferry home.

  Büyükada Prinkipo

  This is the largest and the most touristy of the islands. It can get unbearably crowded on weekends and during the summer, so your best bet is to visit midweek. The main attraction is the Aya Yorgi Monastery (216 382 3939 Open daily 9am-6pm. Free.), located on top of a hill that offers a great view of the surrounding archipelago. To get here, first go to the Luna Park square (fayton costs 20TL, walking there should take about 30min.) and then walk up a very steep hill for about 20min. If you’re into miracles, try the ascent without shoes while wishing something—word on the street is that the wish might come true after you reach the top (just don’t wish for a pair of shoes). The monastery’s church is rather new (it was built in 1906), but the interior is enthusiastically decorated with Christian imagery. The monastery used to function as a place for healing the mentally ill, who would spend their nights chained to the ground in front of Saint George’s icon. Unfortunately, the chain rings were removed during a restoration some years ago. Nearby the church is the pleasant Yücetepe Kir Gazinosu restaurant (216 382 1333 www.yucetepe.com), where you can refuel after the hike. Other things to do here include visiting the Princes’ Islands Museum (Çinar Meydani, due to open in 2010), which will contain much more information about the islands than you’ll ever need. There are three paid beaches (15-25TL) which run their own free shuttle boats from the docks, but don’t set your expectations too high. A nice, if a bit barren spot for a picnic is the Dilburnu peninsula (Piknik Alani 216 382 4301 3TL per person). The authorities and entrepreneurs are working on transforming the island into the new Sultanahmet, but there are many sights which are still dilapidated and not accessible to the public, including the villa where Leon Trotsky spent four years of his exile (Trocki Evi, down a steep cul-de-sac near Çankaya Cad. 59 and Eşki Rum Yetimhanesi, an abandoned orphanage on the hill opposite Aya Yorgi. As you exit the ferry, head left to the useful tourist information booth, where you can get free maps of the four major islands. Bike rental stores are scattered all over the village ( 2.5-5TL per hr., 7.5-15TL per 24hr.), while the faytons leave from above the clock tower square ( Tours 40TL-50TL).

  Heybeliada Halki

  Heybeliada is the second-largest island and great for independent exploration. Unfortunately, many of the potentially interesting buildings are either blocked off by scary-looking soldiers holding guns or simply closed, so you’ll have to do most of your sightseeing from afar. The most significant building here is the former Greek Orthodox Theological Seminary (now known as Özel Rum Lisesi) on top of the hill to the north of the docks. The building dates to 1896 and was built in the ruins of the former Haghia Triada Monastery. It served as an important Orthodox school (the current Patriarch Bartholomew I is an alum) until it was closed by the government in 1971. The Halki Seminary’s closure remains a hot-button issue for the West, and its reopening is an important point in EU membership discussion. Another interesting sight is a Byzantine church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Kamariotissa (marked as Aya Yorgi Monastery). It was the last church built before the Conquest, but since it is within the grounds of the off-limits Naval School (Deniz Lisesi), all one can see of it is the roof. A few blocks uphill from the center you can find the house of İsmet İnönü (the second president of Turkey), which now functions as a museum. The exhibits are only in Turkish and the museum isn’t very well-known, which strongly contrasts the all-pervading fame of Atatürk, the first president. For swimming, there are some small beaches at the Çam Limani Koyu, attended mostly by the locals. One of the nicest places on the island is the Akvary
um (535 294 4622 5TL.), a tiny pebbly beach amidst crags. It’s very atmospheric and not well advertised, so you can come to have a little Robinson Crusoe moment here (unlike Robinson, you can sip on a 5TL beer). The beach is on the northwestern side of the island, close to Alman Koyu. From here, follow the road parallel to the northern shore until you reach a small wooden sign pointing you to the beach. A biking tour of the island ( 3-5TL per hr., 10-15TL per day, cheapest options near the fayton park) can be very pleasant, provided that you’re prepared to push the bike along on the steeper slopes. There are a number of fayton stands in the center ( Tours 25-35TL), and to the north of the ferry docks is a small tourist information booth.

  Burgazada Antigoni

  Rather unmarked by tourism, this is by far the most authentic of the three islands (the fourth major island is Kinaliada, generally agreed to be a boring landmass). There is no tourist office, so get your map in advance at one of the two bigger islands. There are two well-known fish restaurants, so head to Barba Yani (215 381 2404 www.burgazadabarbayani.com) right at the docks, or Kalpazankaya Restaurant (216 381 1504 www.kalpazankaya.com) on the opposite side of the island. Kalpazankaya is especially charismatic, with a great view of the sea and a small pebbly beach right below it (the drinks are cheaper at the beach than in the restaurant upstairs). A fayton will take you here for 20TL, or you can walk following the shore, which could take around 45min. Burgazada’s main landmark is the Hristos Manastiri (Christ Monastery) which is on top of the central hill. Many trees on the island were destroyed in a forest fire in 2003, giving the walk up to the monastery one of the best views that the Princes’ Islands offer. Unobstructed by trees, you can see three other islands (including the uninhabited Kaşikada, the “Spoon Island”) and Istanbul in the distance. In the town near the docks you can find the Aya Yani Church dating back to 1896 and the Salt Falk Abasiyanik museum, the former residence of this Turkish short story writer. There’s a bike rental store to the south of the docks ( 5TL per hr., 15TL per day), while faytons wait to the north ( Tours 30-40TL).

  Sultanahmet and Around

  HAGIA SOPHIA

  Aya Sofya

  MUSEUM

  212 522 0989

  In our cynical age of the internet, few things can truly impress. However, Hagia Sophia is an exception. Built as a Christian basilica in the 6th century, later converted into a mosque by the Ottomans, and finally turned into a museum 500 years later, this place has an overpowering aura that everyone who visits Istanbul should experience. Hagia Sophia had two predecessors that were destroyed—nothing remains from the first basilica, and the only remains from the second are the marble blocks depicting 12 lambs (symbolizing the 12 apostles) near the entrance. Hagia Sophia is most famous for its dome—it seems to be suspended in the air, with no pillars cluttering the space in the middle. Notice the mosaics of the Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary holding Jesus that can be seen in the semi-dome of the apse. The enormous calligraphied medallions were added during the building’s stint as a mosque in the 19th century, and bear the names of Allah, Prophet Muhammad, the first four caliphs, and two of Muhammad’s grandsons. When your neck starts hurting from staring up, walk up the stone ramp to the upper gallery. Here you can find the 13th-century Deesis mosaic depicting Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, and the Loge of the Empress, with a green stone marking the place where the empress used to watch the proceedings downstairs from her throne. Near the entrance is the sweating pillar, which can supposedly make your wish come true—just put in your thumb and rotate your hand 360 degrees.

  From Sultanahmet, walk south. 20TL, under 12 free. Guides from €40 per group. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Last entry 6pm.

  TOPKAPI PALACE

  Topkapi Sarayi

  PALACE

  212 512 0480 www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/eng/indexalt.html

  To do justice to this sprawling palace complex, you need to spend at least a few hours exploring what it has to offer. If that seems like too much, consider that some people had to spend their entire lives within its walls. The palace used to serve as the official residence for the sultans between the Conquest and 19th century, and today there are four courtyards. The First Courtyard contains the grounds outside of the Palace, including the Archeological Museums and Hagia Eirene. The Second Courtyard is known as the place where the Divan meetings took place and where legal decrees were discussed. The Third Courtyard is the real heart of the Palace—there’s the Privy Chamber where the sultan used to receive foreign dignitaries, and the Holy Relics Apartment exhibiting some of Islam’s most valued items—a sword, a cloak, a tooth, and other belongings of Prophet Muhammad. The Fourth Courtyard is a small garden with pavilions and kiosks. There’s also the fascinating Harem where all the important women in the sultan’s life used to dwell.

  Sultanahmet or Gülhane. Enter the grounds down the hill from Hagia Sophia. Audio tours 10TL. Guided group tours around €80. 20TL, with harem tour 35TL. Open M 9am-6pm, W-Su 9am-6pm.

  BASILICA CISTERN

  Yerebatan Sarayi, Yerebatan Cad. 13

  CISTERN

  212 522 1259 www.yerebatan.com

  Much more atmospheric than its cousin Binbirdirek Cistern, this underground structure was built more than 1400 years ago under Emperor Justinian, the same guy who was responsible for Hagia Sophia. Even though it was once used to store water, today you can take a walk through its innards and listen to dripping water, feed the fish swarming underneath, or take invariably blurred photos of the beautifully lit columns. In the back of the cistern, there are two medusa heads forming the bases of two columns. These craniums were supposedly brought here from pagan Roman temples, but nobody seems to know why they are positioned upside-down and sideways, respectively.

  Sultanahmet. The entrance is across the street from Hagia Sophia, near the Million Stone. Audio tours 5TL. 10TL. Open daily 9am-7:30pm.

  SULTANAHMET MOSQUE (BLUE MOSQUE)

  Sultanahmet Camii

  MOSQUE

  212 518 1319

  While people say Hagia Sophia is less remarkable on the outside than on the inside, the Blue Mosque is often said to have the opposite effect on visitors. Even if this tidbit were true, it wouldn’t mean that much—the mosque’s exterior is quite difficult to match. Some say that when the Blue Mosque was constructed in the early 17th century, its six impressive minarets caused an uproar, as the Haram Mosque in Mecca was the only place of worship with the same number. In what was quite a smart move, the sultan allegedly sent his architect to Mecca to build a seventh minaret for their mosque. Decorated with the blue Iznik porcelain tiles responsible for the mosque’s name, the dome is supported by four “elephant feet,” enormous pillars 5m in diameter. Since the Blue Mosque is still in use, visitors have to enter through a separate entrance, keep to a designated area, and stay out during prayer times.

  the “weast”

  Unlike most countries in the world, Turkey bears the unique distinction of belonging to two continents. Straddling the line of both Europe and Asia, 97% of the country lies in Asia, while the remaining 3% lies in Europe. Though 3% may seem pretty insignificant, this latter percentage consists of Istanbul, the country’s most recognizable and lively city. Simply because it’s better known, Istanbul comes to define the whole country in the eyes of many outsiders. Yet, Turkey should perhaps be better described as “weast”—the crucible of West and East captured in a single noun. Over the centuries Greek warriors, Arab invaders, Crusaders, and Mongolian traders have all passed through or settled in the region, and their legacies live on today, bridging the old and new, the east and west, and ultimately embodying the “weast.”

  In particular, the city of Istanbul best illustrates this melting pot. It’s simplest to think about the city as a historical core surrounded by modern, cosmopolitan growth. The southern shores of the Golden Horn peninsula are home to the city’s historic districts - the old Sultan’s palace, citadel, ancient religious sites like the Blue Mosque, and the tangy aromas of the Spice Bazaar. Beyond this core, rising
residential buildings, tall offices and companies, and banks sketch a New York City skyline farther out on the western, European side of the city, while a mirroring layout of skyscrapers have also shot up on the Asian side. As a visitor, you can haggle for jewels and leather in the Grand Bazaar or peruse the designer shops at a modern-day mall. In addition to the intriguing combination of new and old seen in the physical architecture, this element of the “weast” is also embedded in the attitude of the people. There is crazy driving and a blatant lack of punctuality. Foreigners will undoubtedly be charged “tourist prices” in markets and bazaars, and might be surprised that the largest religious community is Islam.

  Yet as the meeting point of west and east, Istanbul is also the place where common ground lurks beneath superficial differences. One commonality is the 500-year reign of the Ottoman Empire, which influenced the heritage of over 31 countries all over Europe, western Asia, and North Africa. In 1928, after the Empire’s decline, Turkey’s first president Mustafa Kemal wanted to model Turkey’s relatively new nation on the West—Arabic script was discarded and replaced by the Latin alphabet, and turbans were banned. After such heavy influence from an Islamic empire, these changes set the stage for the many future identities within Turkey, yet also created controversy over how the nation should define itself.

  The desire for a clear identity has continued to be a struggle for this relatively young nation, and Istanbul is the locus of this activity. In recent years, an explosion of creativity and renewed appreciation of Anatolian culture has swept the young generation. There are Turkish traditional jazz and rock fusion groups, mystic Sufi dancers, fashion designers using native cloths in distinct styles, and filmmakers earning recognition abroad. The “weast” is no longer just a blend of west and east, but rather a defining characteristic that can’t be found anywhere else.