Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
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essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for citizens of all countries. Must be valid for 90 days after the period of intended stay.
• VISA: Citizens of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the UK and the US all require sticker visas which can be purchased at entry points (the fee varies based on nationality).
• WORK PERMIT : Required for all foreigners planning to work in Turkey.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Turkey is 2hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), and it observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that they are 7hr. ahead of New York City, 10hr. ahead Los Angeles, 2hr. ahead of the British Isles, 7hr. behind Sydney, and 9hr. behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping And Bargaining
In Turkey, you should tip 5-10% in fancier restaurants. Tips aren’t expected in inexpensive restaurants, but will definitely be appreciated. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers, but often people will “round up” the fare. For example if the fare is 4.5TL, then passengers will give the driver 5TL. At hammams, attendants will line up to “bid you goodbye” when you leave, meaning that they expect tips—distribute 10-15% of the total cost amongst them. Porters generally expect a few liras, and generally if anyone ever helps you, they are likely to smile and ask for a baksheesh, or tip.
Bargaining in a street market or bazaar is life skill, but trying to get a cheaper price in an established shop can be considered disrespectful. The price tends to be more flexible in informal venues. If it’s unclear whether bargaining is appropriate in a situation, hang back and watch someone else buy first. Be warned, merchants with any pride in their wares will refuse to sell to someone who has offended them in the negotiations, so don’t lowball too much.
Taxes
In Turkey, there is a 10-20% VAT, known as the KDV, that is included in the price of most goods and services (including meals, lodging, and car rentals). Before you buy, check if the KDV is included in the price to avoid paying it twice. Theoretically, the KDV that you pay on your trip can be reclaimed at most points of departure, but this requires much persistence and hassle. An airport tax of $15 in Turkey is levied only on international travelers, but it is usually included in the cost of the ticket.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
The General Directorate of Security (Emniyet Genel Müdüdlüğü) is the civilian police force in Turkey. Police officers wear navy blue uniforms and caps. Police cars are blue and white and have “Polis” written on the side doors and hood. Police violence is a problem in Turkey, especially at protests and demonstrations, so exercise caution when near these event. According to Human Rights Watch, police routinely use firearms during arrests without exhausting non-violent means and also when there is not an apparent threat of death or injury. Always be respectful and compliant when dealing with the police, and make it clear that you are a tourist. Homosexuality is not illegal in Turkey, but GLBT travelers should exercise caution when traveling due to the conservative values embedded in Muslim-majority Turkish society.
Drugs and Alcohol
Turkey is a huge locus of drug trafficking coming in from Afghanistan and Iran into Europe. It is estimated that as much as 80% of heroin in Britain comes from Turkey. In recent years, the Interior Ministry has boasted a 149% increase in seizures of opium and opium derivatives, so the government takes drug trafficking very seriously. The Turkish government has adopted a harsh policy (including fines and jail time) against those caught with drugs. If caught, a meek “I didn’t know it was illegal” will not suffice. Remember that you are subject to Turkey’s laws while within its borders, not those of your home country. If you carry prescription drugs, have the prescription and if possible a note from the doctor. Avoid public drunkenness. Islam prohibits the consumption of alcohol, even though it is legal in Turkey. Do not drink during the holy month of Ramadan.
Specific Concerns
Natural Disasters
Located in one of the world’s most seismically active areas, Turkey experiences frequent and occasionally large earthquakes. The most recent serious quake in 1999 wreaked an estimated US$3 billion worth of damage and caused nearly 45,000 casualties in Turkey. Earthquakes are unpredictable and can occur at any time of day. If a strong earthquake does occur, it will probably only last one or two minutes. Protect yourself by moving a sturdy doorway, table, or desk, and open a doorway to provide an escape route. In mountainous regions, landslides may follow quakes.
Terrorism
Terrorism is a serious concern for travelers to Turkey. A number of terrorist groups remain active, though mostly in southeastern Turkey, where the separatist Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK) regularly attacks national security forces. Let’s Go does not recommend travel in the southeastern provinces of Hakkari, Sirnak, Siirt, or Tunceli due to the instability and terrorism in these provinces. However, the PKK has bombed government and civilian targets in Ankara, Istanbul, Izmir and tourist resorts of the Mediterranean and Aegean. Bombs are normally planted in crowded areas in trashcans, outside banks, or on mini-buses and trains. Bombings occur a few times a year but are generally not deadly and target the police and the government.
Pre-Departure Health
Matching a prescription to a foreign equivalent is not always easy, safe, or possible, so if you take prescription drugs, carry up-to-date prescriptions or a statement from your doctor stating the medications’ trade names, manufacturers, chemical names, and dosages. Be sure to keep all medication with you in your carry-on luggage.
Pharmacists often speak English reasonably well and can help you find common over-the-counter drugs like aspirin in the pharmacy.
Immunizations and Precautions
You should consult with your doctor before traveling to Turkey, and she or he may recommend getting Hepatitis A, typhoid, and rabies vaccinations, especially if you are traveling to rural areas.
Travelers over two years old should make sure that the following vaccines are up to date: MMR (for measles, mumps, and rubella); DTaP or Td (for diphtheria, tetanus, and pertussis); IPV (for polio); Hib (for Haemophilus influenzae B); and HepB (for Hepatitis B). For recommendations on immunizations and prophylaxis, check with a doctor and consult the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in the US or the equivalent in your home country. (+1-800-CDC-INFO/232-4636 www.cdc.gov/travel)
Staying Healthy
Diseases and Environmental Hazards
In Turkey, be wary of food- and water-borne illnesses, like traveler’s diarrhea, dysentery, cholera, Hepatitis A, Giardia, and typhoid fever. The best cure is prevention. Be sure that everything you eat is cooked properly. Never drink unbottled water unless you have treated it yourself. Bottled water is very cheap, and a large bottle typically sells for less than an American dollar. To purify your own water, bring it to a roiling boil or treat it with iodine tablets. Don’t use untreated water even to brush your teeth, and don’t open your mouth when in the shower. Ice cubes are just as dangerous as impure liquid water, so enjoy that gin and tonic off the rocks! Salads and uncooked vegetables (including lettuce) are chock full of untreated water. Other culprits include raw shellfish, unpasteurized milk and sauces containing raw eggs. Peel all fruits and vegetables yourself, and watch out for street food that may have been washed in dirty water.
turkey 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
When in Istanbul…
Visitors who’ve never traveled to a Muslim country before may be surprised by certain traditions. Public displays of affection are not as common or as widely accepted as in many other European countries, so even if you’ve found yourself a Turkish sweetheart (or brought one with you), keep your public cano
odling to a minimum. Turkey’s residents have a great deal of national pride, and insulting the Turkish nation, national flag, or founder Atatürk is both rude and illegal. Steer clear of touchy subjects; Islam is not an acceptable target for your latest rant or comedy routine. Turkish culture also places a high value on respect for elders. It is considered proper to make your greetings from eldest to youngest, regardless of how well you know each person.
At the Table
Invited to dine at someone’s home? Welcome to a land of legendary hospitality. Show your gratitude by bringing a small gift, such as flowers or a dessert. Play it safe and don’t bring a bottle of wine for your host. Because Turkey is mostly Muslim, many residents don’t drink alcohol. Enjoy your meal, and make sure to let your host know how good it tastes. They’ll be sure to keep loading up your plate, so bring a hearty appetite. If you’re invited to dine out at a restaurant, bear in mind that the host always pays (although an offer to pay is customary).
Mosque Etiquette
Visitors are generally welcome in Istanbul’s exquisite mosques, provided that they are courteous and respect local customs, but there are some mosques open only to Muslims. Remove your shoes before entering and wear modest clothing. Miniskirts, shorts, and tank tops are a definite no-no. Both men and women should make sure that their shoulders, upper arms, and thighs are completely covered. When entering, women will be provided with a headscarf to cover their hair—but feel free to bring your own to match your outfit! Remember that this is a place of worship, so speaking loudly or taking pictures will likely not be appreciated.
Body Language
Remember that body language isn’t universal. Even something as simple as shaking your head might not mean what you expect. To say “yes,” nod your head downward. “No” is nodding your head upwards, while shaking your head from side to side means that you don’t understand. Making the “OK” sign with your hand has a much different meaning in Turkey, and is not appropriate for polite company. When you enter someone’s home, take off your shoes and accept slippers if offered. Sitting cross-legged on the floor is common, but pay attention. Exposing the bottoms of your feet to another person is considered offensive, no matter how adorable your toesocks are. Blowing your nose is not something done in public, so take a quick trip to the bathroom instead.
FOOD AND DRINK
Fusion Food
With more than 2000 years of culinary history, Turkey has had plenty of opportunity to refine its palate. Fish, fresh eggplant, fragrant herbs, and local olive oil will please your stomach and maintain your waistline. Modern cuisine is a delicious blend of Balkan, Central Asian, and Middle Eastern specialties, from spicy kebabs of chicken and beef to baklava, a deliciously flaky pastry. Doner kebabs are one popular Turkish dish, consisting of lamb roasted to perfection on an upright spit. Meat-lovers will also enjoy kofta, balls of ground beef or lamb mixed with onions and spices. For lighter fare, order dolma, vine leaves stuffed with anything from spiced rice (zeytinyagli dolma) to eggplant (patlican dolma) to mussels (midye dolma).
Drink Up!
Caffeine-addicts should try a strong Turkish coffee on for size, then examine the dregs to test their skills at kahve fali, or coffee dreg fortune-telling. For less mystery and a stronger kick, sip raki, an anise-flavored alcoholic drink often served with seafood. A common Turkish saying claims that if you want to get to know someone, you should either travel with them or drink raki with them. If you’re visiting Istanbul with friends, you can do both, and that effects of this famously strong drink will probably reveal more secrets about your friends than the kahve fali did earlier. Also called aslan sütü (“lion’s milk”), raki turns milky-white when diluted. Teetotalers can try another of Turkey’s favorite drinks, ayran. An interesting mixture of yogurt, water, and salt, aryan is served chilled and provides the perfect concoction to accompany a steaming kebab.
ESSENTIALS
planning your trip
DOCUMENTS AND FORMALITIES
TIME DIFFERENCES
money
GETTING MONEY FROM HOME
TIPPING AND TAXES
safety and health
GENERAL ADVICE
PRE-DEPARTURE HEALTH
getting around
BY PLANE
BY TRAIN
BY BUS
keeping in touch
BY EMAIL AND INTERNET
BY TELEPHONE
BY SNAIL MAIL
climate
measurements
language
PHRASEBOOK
GREEK ALPHABET
You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to plan a good trip. (It might help, but it’s not required.) You do, however, need to be well prepared, and that’s what we can do for you. Essentials is the chapter that gives you all the nitty-gritty you need to know for your trip: the hard information gleaned from 50 years of collective wisdom (and that phone call to Marseille the other day that put us on hold for an hour). Planning your trip? Check. Staying safe and healthy? Check. The dirt on transportation? Check. We’ve also thrown in communications info, meteorological charts, and a phrasebook, just for good measure. Plus, for overall trip-planning advice from what to pack (money and as little underwear as possible) to how to take a good passport photo (it’s physically impossible; consider airbrushing), you can also check out the Essentials section of www.letsgo.com.
We’re not going to lie—this chapter is tough for us to write, and you might not find it as fun of a read as Discover Europe. But please, for the love of all that is good, read it! It’s super helpful, and, most importantly, it means we didn’t compile all this technical info and put it in one place for you (yes YOU) for nothing.
greatest hits
• WE ARE ONE. Poli Sci majors may think of the EU as a bureaucratic nightmare, but it’s awesome for you—the Schengen Agreement allows you to move between most European countries without going through customs (Work Permits).
• WE ARE ONE, PART TWO. We have mixed feelings about the euro: on one hand, it’s awfully convenient to have one currency for most of Europe. On the other hand, the exchange rate is just plain awful (money).
• ONE-DOLLAR FLIGHTS. Yes, it’s true—budget airlines are a wonderful thing. We’ve compiled the continent’s cheapest and most convenient (budget airlines ).
• WE AREN’T REALLY ONE. As integrated as Europe becomes, they’ll always speak some wildly different languages. This chapter has a phrasebook with the 10 biggest languages covered in this book (PHRASEBOOK). Can you say “Let’s Go is awesome”? Can you say it in Hungarian?
planning your trip
DOCUMENTS AND FORMALITIES
You’ve got your visa, your invitation (if necessary; check individual countries’ requirements), and your work permit, just like Let’s Go told you to, and then you realize you’ve forgotten the most important thing: your passport. Well, we’re not going to let that happen. Don’t forget your passport!
Visas
EU citizens do not need a visa to globetrot through the many nations of Europe. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, and the US do not need a visa for stays of up to 90 days, but this three-month period begins upon entry into any of the countries that belong to the EU’s freedom of movement zone. For more information, see One Europe (below). Those staying longer than 90 days may purchase a visa at a European embassy or consulate.
Double-check entrance requirements at the nearest embassy or consulate of whatever countries you are visiting for up-to-date information before departure. US citizens can also consult http://travel.state.gov.
Entering Europe to study requires a special visa. For more information, see the Beyond Tourism chapter.
one europe
The EU’s policy of freedom of movement means that most border controls have been abolished and visa policies harmonized. Under this treaty, formally known as the Schengen Agreement, you’re still required to carry a passport (or government-issued ID card for EU citizens) when crossing an internal border,
but, once you’ve been admitted into one country, you’re free to travel to other participating states. Most EU states are already members of Schengen (excluding Cyprus), as are Iceland and Norway.
Work Permits
Admittance to a country as a traveler does not include the right to work, which is authorized only by a work permit. For more information, see the Beyond Tourism chapter.
TIME DIFFERENCES
Most of Europe is on Central European Time, which is 1hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time during the summer. This means that it is 6hr. ahead of New York City, 9hr. ahead of Los Angeles, 1hr. ahead of the British Isles, 8hr. behind Sydney, and 10hr. behind New Zealand. However, the UK, Ireland, and Portugal are on Western European Time (subtract 1hr. from Central European Time)—a.k.a. Greenwich Mean Time. In addition, Greece and Turkey (along with parts of Eastern Europe that Let’s Go doesn’t cover) are on Eastern European Time (add 1hr. to Central European Time).