The Feisty Traveler - A Quirky Memoir

by Lil Cromer

  Having endured various oppressors, most recently forty-five years of communism, Poles have tremendous resilience and spirit. These characteristics were at the heart of the Solidarity movement which defeated the communist regime and led to the liberation of the entire Eastern bloc. As Poland rapidly acclimatizes to a western lifestyle, Polish culture is stronger than ever. It was interesting to note an apparent lack of immigrants in Poland. When I asked why, the answer was, “Poland is not a wealthy country, so it’s not attractive to immigrants.”

  Warsaw, the capital, has rebuilt itself several times over the course of its tumultuous history and since the end of communism has been changing faster than any other city in Poland. Today Warsaw is a modern city with a population of around 1.7 million, which is decreasing year by year. During WWII Hitler ordered the city to be razed to the ground. 85% of the city was reduced to rubble. Old Town sits next to New Town which took years to reconstruct. The city is almost flat, much like my home state of Florida. They just completed a huge red and white soccer stadium, capacity 60,000, to host the world games. Our guide said the Polish soccer team didn’t have a chance to win, but because they have the stadium, they were entitled to play one match.

  Often caught between the geopolitical forces of east and west, Poland has mastered the subtle art of survival. For more than a millennium, Poland has played a vital role in European history. From its position in the heart of Europe it’s been the bridge between two great cultures on its eastern and western flanks. The resulting diversity helped shape the mentality of the Poles who are tolerant of differing opinions and ways of life, yet open-minded about new ideas and hospitable toward strangers. A highlight of the tour was a visit to the home of a Polish family where we were served an authentic Polish meal. This particular family sent all three of their children to law school, two of which sat with us during the meal answering our myriad of questions. Since it is the custom to bring a gift and I had none, I walked about six blocks from our hotel in Warsaw to pick up some wine. The female cashier couldn’t speak English, so I pointed to a few bottles of wine and paid for them. She put them in a flimsy plastic bag and smiled. By making gestures, I asked for a double bag. She came from behind the counter, put the flimsy bag in my arms and crossed one arm over the other and sent me on my way.

  The geographical position of Poland has caused political problems with the Germans to the west and the Russians to the east. The centuries of brutal violence by neighboring countries has not stifled Poland’s liberal spirit, not even when it was obliterated from the map of Europe for 123 years. When the Poles were attacked they stood up to their aggressors with “Nie damy sie!” which means, “We will not give in!” Despite the centuries of foreign rule, the Polish people have maintained a strong identity.

  The indefatigable spirit of the Poles has led to exceptional accomplishments in arts, music, science, culture and the civilization of Europe. Chopin died in Paris and was buried with George Sand, but his heart was excavated and reburied in Poland. Despite a certain wary reserve, the Poles will win you over with their strong individualism, their sense of humor and their capacity for fun.

  The Nazis applied their propaganda and philosophy of prejudices and racism to Poland. When they occupied the country, they established a reign of brutality and cruelty that cannot be forgotten. When we visited Auschwitz, in Oswiecim, this brutality was evident where 1.1 million died, 200,000 were children, in specially designed gas chambers. 85% were Jews; others murdered were Poles, Gypsies, Czechs, Austrians, Danes, French and Dutch. The execution wall, the prison block and the reconstructed crematorium at the end of the tour were harshly sobering. An entire exhibit houses eyeglasses of all shapes and sizes. Another display held shoes of all colors, styles and sizes. In one building near the barracks stood rows and rows of concrete seats over holes, which were used as toilets. Our guide told us that women would fight to get assigned the job of cleaning these toilets because they were always indoors and they could use the facilities whenever they wanted. The site was established as a National Museum in 1947. We walked through the notorious gate “Arbeit Macht Frei” which means “Work Sets You Free.”

  I asked all of our guides why the Jews didn’t fight back. The answers were varied from “They were mostly Orthodox Jews and therefore passive to there was always hope.”

  From Elie Wiesel who survived Auschwitz: “There were a few young fellows among us with knives who tried to incite others saying, ‘We’ve got to do something. We can’t let ourselves be killed. We can’t go like beasts to the slaughter. We’ve got to revolt. Let the world learn of the existence of Auschwitz. Let everybody hear about it while they can still escape.’” But the older Jews begged their children not to do anything foolish saying, “You must never lose faith, even when the sword hangs over your head. That is the teaching of our sages.” The revolt fizzled out.

  What the Germans and the war did not destroy, the Soviets did by robbing and burning. The Russians claim to have “liberated” Poland but then forgot to leave. It’s said Stalin killed more Poles than Hitler. Times are certainly interesting in Poland — home of the Solidarity political movement that sent shock waves through the Soviet Bloc beginning in 1980 and the first Eastern European state to shake off Communist rule.

  Polish village life and old traditions have survived down through the years. Catholic traditions and family ties remain intact and the church is still present at every important occasion. Although Poland is a Catholic country, 95%, religious tolerance has always gone hand in hand with national belief. Country people have a highly developed sense of honor. Poles in general have a friendly disposition toward their fellow human beings — they raise their hats to greet them. They are super friendly and hospitable toward foreigners. I was impressed by how many of the younger people spoke English and were willing to engage me in conversation to practice. I always asked how come their English was so good, which they denied. Then I added, “Your English is 300% better than my Polish,” always good for a laugh.

  Polish food is served in hearty portions and accompanied by freely flowing piwo (beer). Pierogi, pork, golabki (stuffed cabbage) were all sampled, hence my five pound weight gain. All in all Polish food can be filling, tasty and relatively cheap. Polish beer is generally lager, my favorite, and I drank my share. EB beer is triple filtered with an alcohol strength of 5.4 and has an unusually clean and crisp taste. Polish fans of EB will try to convince you that no matter how much you drink, you won’t get a hangover. I tested out this theory but it proved false.

  Amber, referred to as the gold of the north, is Poland’s national stone. Prized by the ancient Egyptians who called it the “stone of life and health” as it was thought to promote youthfulness and longevity. I bought a small amber stone just to be on the safe side.

  Krakow, the capital of Poland between the 11th and the 16th centuries, is regarded as Poland’s cultural and intellectual capital. It’s also one of Poland’s most beautiful cities, with a wealth of museums. It’s the third largest city in Poland with a population of around 750,000 and is one of the few cities to have survived the war more or less intact. Not one to eschew superstition, while at the Royal Castle I found myself rubbing up against the castle wall in the courtyard trying to absorb vital energy as thousands have done for centuries. The city square is the largest in Europe and a great place to people watch. Krakow is the birthplace of Helena Rubenstein of cosmetic fame. The story goes that she married and moved to Australia, but before she left her mother gave her a special skin cream to protect her from the brutal sun and the rest is history.

  Pope John Paul II (Karol Wojtyla) was born near Krakow; we viewed the factory where he worked in 1943 and the seminary school he attended. The city is very proud of their local boy made good and have erected monuments to him as well as naming streets Jana Pawla II. We also drove by the factory where Oskar Schindler saved over 1000 Jews.

  Another city we visited was Czestochowa which is a major industrial center concentrating on metal
lurgy, textiles and chemicals. However, it is best known for the shrine of the Black Madonna. Millions come from all over to worship at this shrine. However, when we got there the Black Madonna was hidden from view, never did find out why and really didn’t care.

  A trip to the Wieliczka Salt Mines outside of Krakow was a unique experience. Years ago, salt was a valuable commodity. There are 2,000 caverns of underground beauty on nine main levels. We only saw 1% of the mine and were dazzled by chambers where sculptors have created breathtaking galleries. One included an entire chapel.

  My favorite stop was a tour of Zakopane, a quaint rural town in the foothills of the Tatra Mountains. This locale reminded one of an Alpine village and is well know for its striking wooden architecture. The town is known as the “Winter capital of Poland.” After touring the city we had another delicious Polish meal then enjoyed a carriage ride followed by a bonfire where we roasted kielbasa (polish sausage) and drank mulled wine.

  Miscellaneous observations: Women drink beer through straws; lots of braless women (could be the effects of beer through a straw); fried sheep cheese called oscypek was actually quite good; there are more Poles in Chicago than anywhere besides Poland.

  Before leaving Poland, my favorite country on the tour, I again thanked my grandfather and discovered why he planted weeping willow trees in his yard in Illinois; it’s the national tree of Poland. My grandparents were named after King Stanislaw and Queen Catherine.

  The Czech Republic is the size of South Carolina with an average monthly salary of $1300 USD. In 2005 they eliminated the draft.

  Planted in the heart of Central Europe, Prague, the capital, is 200 miles NW of Vienna. The Czech Republic is culturally and historically more closely linked to Western culture than its Eastern-Bloc brethren. The country is made up of two regions – Bohemia in the west and Moravia in the east. With a population of over 10 million it’s one of the most densely populated countries in Eastern and Central Europe. Relatively unscathed by major wars, most of Prague’s buildings are remarkably well preserved. There is a sense that Prague is a city rediscovering and reinventing its past.

  Beautiful and mysterious, charming and seedy, boisterous and withdrawn, Prague is an intriguing paradox, and its inhabitants make this one of Europe’s most fascinating destinations. Prague is essentially a Gothic city with a Baroque face. The spine of Prague is the River Vltava which runs through the city from south to north.

  Despite the hijacking of the term “bohemian” by the West to mean “unconventional,” the Czechs are generally rather reserved. There is a friendliness and genuine interest in other cultures. Rules and regulations are respected in the Czech society more so than in other European countries; therefore there is very little crime.

  Czech proverb: “Wherever beer is brewed, all is well. Wherever beer is drunk, life is good.” You can win a bet on this one. Most folks would think Germany is number one on the world’s beer consumption list, but it is actually number three behind the Czech Republic and Ireland. With beer prices roughly the same as water ($1.40 USD in a bar), Czechs are the undisputed world leaders in beer drinking. Small wonder that many connoisseurs rank Bohemian lager-style beer as the best in the world. Pilsner Uraquell and Budvar are two I tried and liked.

  Prague was home to writers Kafka and Hasek and musicians Smetana, and Dvorak, not to mention former Secretary of State under Clinton, Madeline Albright.

  In 1948, the Communists gained total control of Czechoslovakia in a bloodless coup. In 1989 Vaclav Havel, who eventually became president, led the “Velvet Revolution” and preached the value of “living in truth,” which led to the end of communism’s forty year reign. The experience of visiting the Czech Republic involved stepping back in time. I found the key to enjoying the country was just to relax and not expect high levels of service or quality with prices several times lower than Austria or Germany.

  At the crossroads of Catholic and Protestant, many of the inhabitants don’t have much time for organized religion. Unlike Poland, the Czech Republic has moved away from Catholicism and is one of the most secular countries in Europe. Breakdown: 27% Catholic, 10% Protestant, 63% no religion. Our city guide tried to equate no religion to atheism, definitely a false presumption.

  The number of Czechs speaking English was amazing. When I asked why, it turned out that English is taught in kindergarten or first grade. The Czechs are very well educated and usually limit their families to two children.

  Hungary is sandwiched between Slovakia and Romania; it was the Austro-Hungarian Empire’s eastern front. It’s roughly the size of Indiana, with an average monthly salary of $1100 USD. Hungary is closely allied with Poland and the natives proclaim to be both fighters and lovers. They are known for their hospitality; they all share a deep love of music.

  Hungarians are courteous, generous and formal. It is a multiracial nation and despite its close proximity to the Balkan region, considers itself to be West European. However, I noted a great Algerian population as well as Turkish. Must be a much wealthier country than Poland or why the immigration?

  Budapest, situated on the banks of the Danube, unites the colorful hills of Buda and the wide, businesslike boulevards of Pest, where 20% of the country’s population live. Much of the charm of Budapest lies in unexpected glimpses into shadowy courtyards and in long vistas down sunlit cobbled streets. Although some 30,000 buildings were destroyed during WW II and in the 1956 Revolution, the past lingers on in the often crumbling architectural details in the antique structures that remain.

  With the withdrawal of the last Soviet soldiers from Hungarian soil in 1991, the country embarked on a decade of sweeping changes. The adjustment to a free-market economy has not been easy sailing. Because Hungary is a small, agriculturally oriented country, visitors are often surprised by its grandeur and charm, especially in Budapest which bustles with life. What Hungary lacks in size it makes up for in beauty and charm. We passed fields and fields of beautiful yellow canola plants.

  Being a natural contrarian I went off on my own in Budapest one night to mix with the local culture and ran into three people from the tour. We walked up the boulevard and found a pizza and beer joint that looked lively; little did we realize they were gearing up for the soccer playoffs. No wonder our seat was not in demand, it was under the TV with no view. What a great night, pizza and beer for two was only $7.25 USD. A mistake was made on our pizza order and it took a little effort to explain the problem. Finally, a handsome Hungarian came over and said he would do whatever it takes to fix it, which he did. When I asked him why his English was so good, he explained he’d spent seven years on a Royal Caribbean cruise ship sailing out of Florida. He met his wife onboard, moved back to his home in Budapest, got married and has a two year old son which he proudly displayed on his phone when I asked. Budapest is a city of smokers; restaurants were a haze of blue smoke.

  Religious breakdown: 75% Catholic, 20% Protestant and 5% Jewish.

  Austria, the final stop on the tour is the most mountainous country in Europe, with more than 70% of the land occupied by the Alps and Alpine valleys. Although one of the smallest countries in Europe, Austria manages to pack within its border as many mountains, lakes, and picturesque cities as countries five times its size.

  Austrians make less money than their neighbors; they enjoy a short work week and a long life span. Large parts of the country may be conservative, but Vienna, where a fifth of the population live, is extremely liberal.

  Like the US, Austria faces an aging population who will collect social security which will strain their national budget in years to come. German is the official language of Austria, but because English is taught in schools, it’s commonly spoken throughout the country, especially in tourist areas.

  The Hapsburgs ruled from 1273-1918 and shaped Vienna — a romantic image, fine wine, chocolates, cafes, waltzes and the good life. The most famous was Franz Josef and his wife Elizabeth, affectionately know as Sissi. The royalty frequently intermarried, causing grote
sque chins, larger and larger with each generation.

  For much of the 20th century, Vienna had an air of fading grandeur but in the last two decades a youth culture has emerged. Exciting modern designs for new buildings are in evidence like the museum built on the site of the emperor’s former stables. Today Vienna is a vibrant, dynamic European cultural center. Franz Josef, in the late 1800s, demolished the Old Town and laid out a vast boulevard know as the Ring, one of the most ambitious examples of urban planning and restoration in central European history.

  Vienna is the city of composers and boasts the likes of Strauss, the “Waltz King,” Schubert, Mahler and Haydn. It’s also the birthplace of Sigmund Freud and Adolph Hitler.

  Religious breakdown: 95% Catholic and 5% Protestant. One guide described a homosexual emperor as one who prefers members of his own gender, which I thought was a delicate way to put it. Not too many European cities have such a rich gay history as the Austrian capital. Gay emperors, generals or composers of days gone by and all the gays and lesbians of today convert Vienna into a unique travel destination.

  Vienna was my least favorite part of the nineteen day tour. Although beautiful and rich in history, I found it overcrowded, expensive and hot!

  Chapter 15

  United Kingdom

  *

  I want to make memories all over the world.

  Can’t remember when I was not an Anglophile. Going over to England was never a question of if but when. My next door neighbor moved in the same time as I did, we bonded because she was taking care of a husband in poor health like I was.

  Irene was as British as they come, I could talk with her for hours listening to her accent. Over the years I was introduced to her son Jeff and daughter-in-law Cynthia when they’d come to visit. We broke bread together and enjoyed a bit of cheer.