Moon Vancouver

by Carolyn B. Heller

  Science World

  Don’t miss the Kids Market, with its kid-approved shops and indoor playground. Check out Sea Village, too, to let the kids imagine what it would be like to live on a houseboat. When you’re done exploring the island, rent kayaks for an excursion along False Creek.

  Have an early dinner at Go Fish (it’s a short stroll along the waterfront from Granville Island), then catch the Aquabus to Yaletown for dessert at Bella Gelateria Yaletown.

  DAY 3: CANADA PLACE AND THE NORTH SHORE

  Start your day at Canada Place with a virtual flight across the country at FlyOver Canada. You even feel the spray as you soar (virtually) over Niagara Falls.

  Canada Place

  In front of Canada Place, catch the free shuttle to Grouse Mountain. Ride the Skyride tram to the top, where you can visit the grizzly bears at the Grouse Mountain Refuge for Endangered Wildlife, watch the falcons soar at the Birds in Motion demonstration, and get some chuckles at the Lumberjack Show. Go for a hike, and have lunch overlooking the city and water below.

  Your next stop is the Capilano Suspension Bridge (from the Grouse Mountain entrance, take bus 236 down Capilano Road). Give the kids a thrill as they look from the bridge to the canyon way below. Explore the Treetops Adventure, too, where you follow a network of gently swaying wooden bridges to eight treehouse platforms in the forest. When you’re ready to go back downtown, catch the free shuttle.

  For supper, let the kids play with the jukeboxes at retro diner The Templeton or slurp up a bowl of ramen at Hokkaido Ramen Santouka. The Korean shaved ice dessert called bingsoo, served at Snowy Village Dessert Café, makes a fun after-dinner treat.

  DAY 4: UBC AND POINT GREY

  Today, you’ll tour the museums on the University of British Columbia campus, check out another rainforest park, and then have time to relax at Jericho Beach.

  From downtown, catch any UBC-bound bus to the campus bus loop. Walk over to the Museum of Anthropology, where there’s a fantastic collection of First Nations totem poles and other artifacts. Another short walk takes you to the Beaty Biodiversity Museum, which has more than two million specimens of bugs, fish, plants, and fossils that the kids can explore, as well as a massive blue whale skeleton. One more campus attraction, located at the UBC Botanical Garden, is the Greenheart TreeWalk, a network of aerial bridges that takes you high into the rainforest canopy.

  Catch bus 99 to Point Grey Village (get off at W. 10th Ave. at Sasamat St.), where you can have a sandwich and a sweet at Mix the Bakery. After you’ve refueled, walk south to West 16th Avenue, where you can go for a stroll in the rainforest at Pacific Spirit Regional Park, which has more than 40 miles (70 kilometers) of hiking trails. The trails are fairly well marked, but the park is large, so you’ll need to pay attention to your route.

  If the kids aren’t too tired, you can walk down to the Jericho Sailing Centre (it’s 1.25 miles, or two kilometers, straight down Trimble Street); if you’d rather go by bus, it’s fastest to take bus 25 or 33 on 16th Avenue back to the UBC Bus Loop, then change to bus 84, which will drop you on West 4th Avenue just above the beach. Have dinner overlooking the sand at The Galley Patio and Grill, go for a sunset kayak paddle, or simply sit on the beach and watch the sunset. When you’re ready to go back downtown, take bus 4 from West 4th Avenue.

  DAY 5: RICHMOND

  Plan a whale-watching cruise today. Several operators run trips from Steveston Village in the suburb of Richmond, and most will include transportation from downtown. Spend the morning on the water looking for orcas, sea lions, and other aquatic life. Back on land, check out the fishing boats and vendors along the wharf, and stop for a fish-and-chips lunch at Pajo’s.

  BEST FOR ROMANCE

  Visiting Vancouver with a special someone? Start by cycling around Stanley Park on a bicycle built for two or paddling around Granville Island in a tandem kayak. Then check out these other romantic spots.

  SIP

  Have a drink at Reflections Lounge (click here), hidden on the fourth floor of the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, or sink into the leather chairs at posh Bacchus Lounge (click here) to enjoy your cocktails with live piano music.

  EAT

  For dinner, Hawksworth Restaurant (click here) always wows for its setting and service, while West (click here), on South Granville Street, serves first-rate contemporary fare appropriate for any special occasion. Book a table at sunset overlooking False Creek at Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio (click here), and enjoy both the views and the distinctive Peruvian-Japanese dishes. If you consider oysters to be an aphrodisiac, or if you simply crave fresh seafood, reserve your spot for two at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar (click here).

  TREAT

  Share two scoops of Vancouver’s best gelato at downtown’s Bella Gelateria (click here). Detour to Gastown to indulge in a lemon chèvre brownie or other decadent sweet at Purebread (click here). Book a chocolate high tea for two at Kitsilano’s Chocolate Arts (click here).

  SLEEP

  When you’re ready to call it a day, Yaletown’s boutique Opus Hotel Vancouver (click here) will appeal to contemporary couples, while the Wedgewood Hotel & Spa (click here) is a good choice for more traditional romantics. The deluxe Fairmont Pacific Rim (click here) will pamper any pairs, particularly if you book a couple’s treatment in the posh Willow Spring Spa.

  Richmond is the center of Vancouver’s Asian community, so instead of heading straight back downtown, catch bus 402, 407, or 410 from Steveston to Richmond’s Golden Village, where you can choose from countless Chinese restaurants for dinner. The kids might enjoy mapping out their route along Richmond’s Dumpling Trail (get a map at www.visitrichmondbc.com) or choosing from the long list of bubble teas at Pearl Castle Café. If you’re in town on a weekend between mid-May and mid-October, wrap up your day at the Richmond Night Market, where there’s plenty of Asian food to sample, before catching the Canada Line back downtown.

  A DAY OUTDOORS

  From spring through fall, head for the North Shore to enjoy a day outdoors. Although it’s possible to do this excursion by public transport, it’s easier if you have a car.

  MORNING: DEEP COVE

  Start your day of adventure by assembling a picnic for lunch outdoors. Make a quick shopping stop at the Granville Island Public Market. Then go east from downtown, and cross the Second Narrows Bridge to the North Shore.

  fruit tarts, Granville Island Public Market

  Begin your visit to the scenic waterfront village of Deep Cove with a freshly made treat from local institution Honey Donuts. When you’ve sated your sweet tooth, rent a kayak for a leisurely paddle between the forests and mountains of Indian Arm fjord. If you’d rather go with a guide, Deep Cove Kayaks offers kayak tours, including a three-hour Deep Cove Explorer route that’s suitable for novice and more advanced paddlers alike.

  AFTERNOON: LYNN CANYON AND GROUSE MOUNTAIN

  Back on shore, it’s a short drive to Lynn Canyon Park, which has a suspension bridge that was built back in 1912—and it’s free. Find a shady spot to enjoy your picnic lunch. When you’re done eating, follow a forested hiking trail to one of the popular swimming areas and go for a dip.

  Late in the afternoon, you’ll still have time for a visit to Grouse Mountain. Take the Skyride up the mountain, or if you have energy to spare, hike up the famous Grouse Grind trail. Nicknamed “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster,” it’s essentially a mountain staircase with an elevation gain of 2,800 feet (850 meters). However you get to the top, there’s plenty to do when you arrive: Go zip-lining, watch one of the wildlife shows, or try out a paragliding adventure. When you’re ready to relax, have a drink in the lounge overlooking the city.

  zip-lining at Grouse Mountain

  TOP EXPERIENCE

  ABORIGINAL CULTURE

  Aboriginal people have lived in western Canada for more than 10,000 years. For many visitors, the opportunity to explore this traditional culture and its present-day manifestations is a highlight.

  Here are just a fe
w of the numerous places where native culture remains strong. Another valuable resource for visitors interested in First Nations culture is the Aboriginal Tourism Association of British Columbia (604/921-1070 or 877/266-2822, www.aboriginalbc.com).

  BILL REID GALLERY OF NORTHWEST COAST ART

  Dedicated to the work of Haida First Nations artist Bill Reid, this gallery showcases Reid’s sculptures, carvings, and jewelry (click here).

  TALKING TREES WALK

  Several First Nations made their traditional home in Vancouver’s Stanley Park. Tour Stanley Park with an aboriginal guide to learn more about the park’s aboriginal heritage (click here).

  MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY

  This excellent museum illuminates the culture of British Columbia’s aboriginal peoples and traditional cultures from around the world (click here).

  SALMON N’ BANNOCK RESTAURANT

  This contemporary aboriginal bistro uses traditional ingredients in its elk burgers, game sausages, and bison tenderloin. They serve plenty of salmon and bannock (a native bread), too (click here).

  SKWACHÀYS LODGE

  Stay at Canada’s first aboriginal arts and culture hotel, where works by First Nations artists adorn the one-of-a-kind guest rooms (click here).

  SQUAMISH LIL’WAT CULTURAL CENTRE

  In Whistler, learn about the history and present-day culture of the region’s First Nations communities at this modern gallery (click here).

  Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre

  EVENING: SUNSET ON THE BEACH

  Return to Vancouver in time to watch the sunset from English Bay Beach. Ready for dinner? Stroll along Denman Street for tapas at España Restaurant, walk up Robson Street for farm-to-table fare at Forage, or go for high-end sushi overlooking Canada Place at Miku.

  Wrap up your day downtown with drinks at all-Canadian gastropub Timber, where Caesars (Canada’s version of a Bloody Mary) are a signature, or head over to Granville Island for an always-entertaining improv show at Vancouver Theatre Sports League. Then get a good night’s sleep; with this active day, you’ve earned it.

  VANCOUVER’S ASIAN CULTURE

  MORNING: CHINATOWN

  Get a sweet start to your day in Gastown with coffee and a treat from Purebread, or pair your caffeine with an avocado toast at Nelson the Seagull. Walk from Gastown to Chinatown, then spend the rest of your morning at the peaceful Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Take a guided tour to learn more about the garden’s construction and rest up on a bench overlooking the koi pond.

  AFTERNOON: RICHMOND AND STEVESTON

  Catch bus 23, Davie, outside the Chinese Garden at the corner of Keefer and Columbia Streets, and change to the Canada Line (Richmond branch) at Yaletown/Roundhouse station. You’re heading for the suburb of Richmond for a dim sum lunch in the Golden Village, which is full of Asian restaurants and shopping malls. Good dim sum options include Golden Paramount Seafood Restaurant and Empire Seafood Restaurant. Both are a short walk from the Canada Line’s Richmond-Brighouse Station.

  After you’ve eaten, continue south to the fishing port of Steveston. Bus 402, 407, or 410 can bring you to Steveston Village from outside the Richmond-Brighouse Station on Number 3 Road. Take a walk on the wharf, check out the fish vendors, then learn about the Asian, European, and First Nations workers who once staffed the Gulf of Georgia Cannery or the Britannia Shipyards, which are both now National Historic Sites. If you have time when you’ve finished your Steveston visit, detour to the peaceful International Buddhist Temple, one of the largest traditional temples in North America.

  EVENING: DINNER IN RICHMOND

  Return to the Golden Village on Number 3 Road to sit down for dinner at one of Richmond’s hundreds of Chinese eateries. If you’re a spicy food fan, go Hunan-style at Bushuair Restaurant or sample the Sichuan cuisine at New Spicy Chili Restaurant. For milder fare, Bamboo Grove is an excellent upscale Cantonese option. Alternatively, graze your way through the Asian food stalls at the Richmond Night Market, near the Bridgeport Canada Line station.

  Take the Canada Line back to downtown Vancouver for a nightcap at a Japanese izakaya like Guu Garden, or at The Keefer Bar, an Asian-inspired lounge in Chinatown. Or if you’re ready for a late-night snack, stop for a unique-to-Vancouver Japanese-style hot dog at Japadog.

  PLANNING YOUR TRIP

  WHEN TO GO

  High season in Vancouver and Victoria runs from May through October, when the weather is generally warm and relatively dry. July and August are the region’s peak travel months, with the sunny, temperate conditions balancing out the big crowds and high prices. In summer, the comfortable daytime temperatures rarely rise above 75°F (24°C), and the sun doesn’t set until after 9pm.

  springtime blossoms on Main Street

  Prices may be somewhat more moderate in spring (April through June) and fall (September through October), although you can expect more rain than in midsummer.

  During the winter months of November through February, prices are lowest; except during the Christmas/New Year’s holidays, accommodations can drop to half of their summertime rates. The cultural calendar is full with theater, music, and other arts events, and you can ski on the local mountains or just two hours away at Whistler-Blackcomb. Daytime temperatures in the city average 43-46°F (6-8°C) during the winter. The trade-off is that winter is the rainy season, with rain—sometimes quite heavy—and clouds most days. Snow typically falls only at higher elevations, although it occasionally snows in the city.

  ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

  Visitors to Canada must have a valid passport. U.S. citizens entering Canada by land can use a NEXUS card or U.S. Passport Card instead, but note that these documents aren’t valid for air travel.

  Depending on your country of origin, you may also need either a visitor visa or an Electronic Travel Authorization (eTA). See more information in the “Essentials” chapter of this guide, and check with Citizenship and Immigration Canada (www.cic.gc.ca) to confirm what documents you require.

  TRANSPORTATION

  Vancouver International Airport is south of downtown in the suburb of Richmond. The Canada Line subway stops right at the airport and can take you downtown in just 25 minutes.

  Visitors arriving by train or bus come into Pacific Central Station on the edge of Chinatown. Cabs typically wait outside the station. To get downtown, you can also catch the SkyTrain from Main Street Station, which is one block from the train and bus depot.

  Vancouver has a very good public transit system, with subway lines, buses, and ferries that can take you almost everywhere around the city. You don’t need a car to explore most city attractions. A car is useful, though not essential, for excursions around the North Shore mountains or up the Sea-to-Sky Highway to Whistler. You can get to Victoria from Vancouver without a car on the BC Ferries Connector, a combination bus-ferry-bus route.

  DAILY REMINDERS

  • Monday: From mid-May until early September, most Vancouver attractions stay open every day, but some museums close on Monday, particularly during the winter months. Monday can be a good day to visit Granville Island or tour Stanley Park, which can both be extremely crowded on weekends.

  • Tuesday: On Tuesday evening, admission to the Vancouver Art Gallery is by donation.

  • Thursday: In Kitsilano, the Museum of Vancouver and the Vancouver Maritime Museum both stay open late on Thursday, closing at 8pm. The Museum of Anthropology is open until 9pm, and evening tickets are discounted.

  • Friday: The Richmond Night Market operates on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings from mid-May through the middle of October.

  • Saturday: The West End Farmers Market is open on Saturday from late May until late October. The UBC Farm Market is also open Saturday from June to October.

  • Sunday: The Vancouver Art Gallery runs free drop-in art activities for kids on Sunday afternoons. The Kitsilano Farmers Market sells fresh produce and baked goods on Sunday from early May through late October.

  RESERVATIONS

/>   If you’re traveling in the summer, particularly in July and August, book your hotel reservations in advance. Car reservations are recommended on BC Ferries trips between Vancouver and Victoria in the summer as well.

  Many Vancouver restaurants fill up with advance reservations, particularly on Friday and Saturday nights. Book a weekend table at least a few of days ahead of time; most local eateries take reservations online. Don’t despair if you can’t get a reservation, though, since many spots save room for walk-ins, too.

  PASSES AND DISCOUNTS

  Many Vancouver attractions offer discounted admission for seniors (age 65 and up), students, and families, typically including two adults and up to two children.

  If you’re going to visit several attractions on the University of British Columbia campus, the UBC Museums and Gardens Pass (adults $33, seniors, students, and children $28) can save you money. It includes admission to the Museum of Anthropology, Nitobe Japanese Garden, UBC Botanical Garden, and Beaty Biodiversity Museum, as well as a 10 percent discount on the Greenheart TreeWalk. Purchase the pass at any of the participating attractions.

  GUIDED TOURS

  Several companies offer Vancouver city tours or explorations of particular neighborhoods, including Tours by Locals (www.toursbylocals.com) and Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com). For a guided tour by bike, contact Cycle City Tours (http://cyclevancouver.com) or Vancouver Bike Tours (http://biketourvancouver.com).