Book Read Free

Moon Vancouver

Page 11

by Carolyn B. Heller


  MAP 2: 315 Carrall St., 604/681-5776, www.nelsontheseagull.com; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.

  Purebread $

  Vancouverites used to have to drive to Whistler for the decadent pastries and wholesome breads at Purebread. But now Gastown has a Purebread of its own, with drool-inducing treats like freshly baked scones, lemon chèvre brownies, and giant meringues. Enjoy your snack with coffee inside this friendly café, or take your goodies to go.

  MAP 2: 159 W. Hastings St., 604/563-8060, www.purebread.ca; 8:30am-5:30pm daily

  DESSERT

  Crackle Crème $

  A café that specializes in crème brûlée? Why, yes, please. Chinatown’s Crackle Crème concocts custards in flavors from salted caramel to Asian-inspired matcha. They serve Belgian-style Liège waffles and ice cream, too.

  MAP 2: 245 Union St., 778/847-8533, www.cracklecreme.com; noon-10pm Wed.-Sat., noon-9pm Sun.

  COFFEE AND TEA

  Revolver $

  Gastown is Vancouver’s coffee central, where hip coffee shops abound. Sip your java among the designers, techies, and laptop-toting cool kids at Revolver, which offers a changing menu of beans from roasters across North America.

  MAP 2: 325 Cambie St., 604/558-4444, www.revolvercoffee.ca; 7:30am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat.

  Yaletown and False Creek Map 3

  MODERN CANADIAN

  Homer Street Café and Bar $$$

  Savory rotisserie chicken and other upscale comfort foods draw hearty appetites to Yaletown’s Homer Street Café and Bar. Choose from starters like grilled tuna with sweet pepper salsa or bison terrine with pickled cherries. Then, go for the chicken (available in quarter, half, or whole birds), or peruse the daily “fresh sheet” for other seafood, pasta, and meat options. Save room for the peanut butter cookies with Nutella cream, and note the unique architecture; the dining room encompasses space in both a heritage building and a contemporary tower, with ornate tile work, lots of marble, and a shady sidewalk patio.

  MAP 3: 898 Homer St., 604/428-4299, http://homerstreetcafebar.com; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri., 10:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-11pm Sat., 10:30am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm Sun.

  SEAFOOD

  S Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio $$$

  Does chic Ancora Waterfront Dining and Patio have the loveliest outdoor dining space in the city? Its sunny terrace overlooking False Creek in Yaletown is certainly among Vancouver’s most scenic waterside dining destinations. Come at sunset or on a sunny day for the best views. On your plate, expect an innovative hybrid of Japanese and Peruvian flavors, crafted from west coast ingredients. Ceviche and sashimi are highlights.

  MAP 3: 1600 Howe St., 604/681-1164, www.ancoradining.com; noon-2:30pm and 3:30pm-late Mon.-Fri., 5pm-late Sat., 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-late Sun.

  Blue Water Café $$$

  Busy with business diners and couples celebrating occasions, this long-standing high-end seafood spot in a rehabbed Yaletown warehouse does an excellent job with fresh fish. At Blue Water Café, the chef often spotlights underutilized species—the restaurant hosts an annual “Unsung Heroes” festival, featuring less common sea creatures—so look for seafood that you might not find elsewhere alongside more familiar varieties. A lengthy wine list and well-trained staff make your evening more special.

  MAP 3: 1095 Hamilton St., 604/688-8078, www.bluewatercafe.net; 5pm-11pm daily

  WildTale Coastal Grill $$$

  Fresh seafood, simply prepared, is the lure at WildTale Coastal Grill. Start with something from the raw bar, maybe oysters or ceviche, then order the day’s fresh catch, with most of the fish options swimming in from Pacific waters. Brunch is a good choice, too, where poached eggs might be stacked with smoked salmon and piled on a potato cake or served atop crisp crab cakes. Inside, where the furnishings are sturdy wood and leather, the well-spaced tables encourage comfortable conversation. On a sunny day, nab a patio seat to watch all of Yaletown go by.

  MAP 3: 1079 Mainland St., 604/428-9211, www.wildtale.ca; 11am-midnight Mon.-Sat., 11am-11pm Sun.

  Fanny Bay Oyster Bar $$

  West coast shellfish producer Taylor Shellfish Farms runs Fanny Bay Oyster Bar, which bills itself as the city’s first “tide to table” oyster bar. Sit at the long marble counter and watch the shuckers at work while you dig into platters of whatever bivalves are freshest that day; the servers can help you choose from the regularly changing list. Besides oysters, the menu at this smart-casual spot with industrial-style lighting, exposed pipes, and a polished wood floor includes crab cakes, ceviche, fish-and-chips, and other seafood preparations. Near B.C. Place in Yaletown, it’s handy for pre- or post-game drinks and snacks.

  an oyster platter at Fanny Bay Oyster Bar

  MAP 3: 762 Cambie St., 778/379-9510, www.fannybayoysters.com; 11am-late Mon.-Fri., 10:30am-late Sat.-Sun.

  Rodney’s Oyster House $$

  Bring the gang, raise a glass, and start slurping—oysters, that is—at lively Rodney’s Oyster House. This nautical-themed pub-style fish house in Yaletown, outfitted with buoys, model ships, and a pile of fresh oysters on ice at the bar, specializes in simple seafood dishes, from chowders and steamers to the namesake bivalve. To drink, choose from several beers on tap or wines from B.C. and farther afield. There’s a second Rodney’s in Gastown.

  MAP 3: 1228 Hamilton St., 604/609-0080, http://rohvan.com; 11:30am-11pm daily

  JAPANESE

  Juno Sushi Bistro $$

  Tiny Juno Sushi Bistro would be right at home in Tokyo, from the friendly greeting (in Japanese) that you get from the staff to the extensive menu of maki and nigiri. Besides the excellent sushi and sashimi (ask about daily specials), you can order izakaya-style small plates like wild salmon gyoza, chicken karaage, or tempura, along with innovations like yam poutine with teriyaki gravy. The sake list includes several varieties from Vancouver’s Artisan Sake Maker on Granville Island. This diminutive dining destination is easy to walk right by; look for it opposite Yaletown’s Emery Barnes Park.

  MAP 3: 572 Davie St., 604/568-8805, www.junobistro.ca; 4:30pm-10:30pm Mon.-Sat., 4:30pm-9:30pm Sun.

  VIETNAMESE

  House Special $$

  A brother-and-sister team runs this modern Vietnamese eatery in a refurbished Yaletown warehouse. House Special, named for the house special pho (noodle soup), serves a mix of traditional and more innovative Asian plates that pair well with cocktails and craft beers. Try the spicy-sweet chicken wings, the soft-boiled Son-in-Law Egg in a crispy panko crust, or the fry bread, a sesame bun filled with pork cracklings, duck confit, or sautéed mushrooms.

  MAP 3: 1269 Hamilton St., 778/379-2939, www.housespecial.ca; 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm daily

  ITALIAN

  Giardino $$$

  After longtime Vancouver restaurateur Umberto Menghi closed Il Giardino, his classic Italian dining room, many mourned its passing. But never fear: Menghi is back near Yaletown with elegant Tuscan-inspired Giardino, pairing old-world service with updated plates like horseradish-crusted sablefish with lamb ragout or seared venison sauced with a chianti reduction. Don’t miss the sweets, like chocolate fonduta, a baked chocolate soufflé with chestnut crème anglaise, or almond cannoli served with blood orange sorbet. The dining room could be a refined restaurant in Florence, with its vaulted wood-beamed ceilings, Italian tile work, and European paintings; in summer, sit on the garden patio, hidden behind the restaurant.

  MAP 3: 1328 Hornby St., 604/669-2422, www.umberto.com; 11:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-11pm Mon.-Fri., 5:30pm-11pm Sat.

  La Pentola $$$

  The best way to dine at La Pentola, the fashionable dining room at Yaletown’s Opus Hotel, is family-style ($60-75 pp), when the kitchen sends out a procession of contemporary Italian dishes. Even if you opt for a less opulent feast, you can choose from antipasti like braised octopus with fried eggplant, house-made pastas (perhaps tagliatelle bolognese or agnolotti stuffed with duck confit), and mains that might include branzano with swiss chard or veal osso buco. Their signature dessert is a s
weet-tart lemon cream. With street-level windows bringing in light from two sides and tables well laid out for conversation, La Pentola is also a pleasant spot for brunch or a business meeting.

  MAP 3: 350 Davie St., 604/642-0557, www.lapentola.ca; 7am-10pm daily

  PIZZA

  Bella Gelateria Yaletown $$

  Though you wouldn’t guess it from the name, the waterside branch of Vancouver’s best gelato shop is also a full-fledged Neapolitan-style pizzeria, cooking up creative and traditional pies in their wood-burning oven. Request a seat on the patio overlooking False Creek if you’re sitting down for pizza; you can take your gelato or nondairy sorbet for a stroll along the Seawall.

  MAP 3: 1089 Marinaside Crescent, 778/737-7890, http://bellagelateria.com; 9am-11pm daily

  BAKERIES AND CAFÉS

  The Buzz Café and Espresso Bar $

  Part art gallery and part coffee shop, The Buzz Café and Espresso Bar sits on a sunny Yaletown corner, inside Harrison Galleries (www.harrisongalleries.com), Vancouver’s oldest retail art gallery. Settle into one of the comfy couches or cozy nooks beneath the artworks for baked goods and a cup of coffee or tea. With widely spaced seating, it’s a well laid-out place to chat or check your e-mail (there’s free Wi-Fi).

  MAP 3: 901 Homer St., 604/732-9029, http://thebuzzcafe.net; 7am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-5pm Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.

  Small Victory Bakery $

  At times, it can seem like a small victory to get a seat at this Yaletown café that’s filled with blond wood tables and lots of enticing aromas. At Small Victory Bakery, the coffee is excellent, and the short menu includes pastries, breads, and a few sandwiches. The almond croissants are a special treat.

  MAP 3: 1088 Homer St., 604/899-8892, http://smallvictory.ca; 7:30am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-6pm Sat.-Sun.

  Terra Breads Bakery Café $

  With floor-to-ceiling windows and seats inside and out, cheery Terra Breads Bakery Café in the Olympic Village makes a handy rest stop for coffee and muffins while you’re strolling the False Creek Seawall or as a treat for the kids after visiting Science World. Sandwiches, salads, soups, and a range of sweet and savory pastries are available, along with hot and cold drinks, beer, wine, and cider. Terra Breads has other sit-down locations in Kitsilano and off Main Street.

  MAP 3: 1605 Manitoba St., 604/877-1183, www.terrabreads.com; 7am-7pm daily

  Granville Island Map 4

  MODERN CANADIAN

  Edible Canada Bistro $$

  Opposite the Public Market, Edible Canada Bistro creates contemporary dishes with ingredients from around British Columbia and across Canada. Though it’s always busy with tourists, locals appreciate the Canadian menu, too. At midday, you might try a duck confit sandwich with cherry-onion relish or root vegetable hash with boar bacon and poached eggs. For supper, find plates like maple-glazed pork chops, wild salmon with braised lentils, or bison short ribs. The restaurant regularly partners with Canadian chefs to host special dinners; check the website for upcoming events. Adjacent to the window-lined restaurant, which has an open kitchen and seasonal patio seating, their retail outlet sells Canadian-made gourmet products.

  MAP 4: 1596 Johnston St., 604/682-6681, www.ediblecanada.com; 11am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 11am-10pm Fri., 9am-10pm Sat., 9am-9pm Sun.

  SEAFOOD

  Go Fish $

  Like seafood? Then go fish—at Go Fish, an always busy waterfront takeout shack. Choose fish-and-chips made from cod, salmon, or halibut, or go a little wild with a wild salmon sandwich, an oyster po’ boy, or fish tacos. Expect long lines on sunny days. It’s a five-minute walk along the seawall from Granville Island; look for the dockside sign that says “Public Fish Sales,” and you’ll find Go Fish opposite the docks.

  MAP 4: 1505 W. 1st Ave., 604/730-5040; 11:30am-6:30pm Tues.-Fri., noon-6:30pm Sat.-Sun.

  VIETNAMESE

  Chau Veggie Express $

  Chau Veggie Express serves Vietnamese-inspired vegetarian and vegan dishes. The short menu at this to-go counter inside the Granville Island Public Market features several soups, fresh spring rolls, and noodle or rice bowls layered with different combinations of vegetables, tofu, and sauces, from vegan “fish” sauce to spicy peanut satay.

  MAP 4: Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston St., 778/379-9508, www.chowatchau.ca; 9am-7pm Tues.-Sun.

  QUICK BITES

  Market Grill $

  A takeout stall facing the water at the back of the Granville Island Public Market, the friendly Market Grill cooks up burgers, with beef, chicken, and veggie options. The local favorite is the salmon burgers, with sockeye piled high on a homemade bun. Simple but good, the burgers all come with either thick-cut fries or Caesar salad. Market Grill also serves hot dogs and breakfast options (bacon and eggs, breakfast sandwiches).

  MAP 4: Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston St., 604/689-1918; 8am-7pm daily

  The Stock Market $

  Inside the Granville Island Public Market, the Stock Market prepares three kinds of homemade soup daily. On the rotating menu, one soup is fish-based (like the tasty wild salmon chowder), one is meat-based, and the third is vegetarian. Each bowl is served with a slab of bread and makes for a quick market lunch. Although the stall itself has no seating, you can sit at tables nearby or take your food to a bench outdoors.

  MAP 4: Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston St., 604/687-2433, http://thestockmarket.ca; 8am-7pm daily

  Kitsilano Map 5

  MODERN CANADIAN

  AnnaLena $$$

  Though it’s named for the chef’s grandmothers, there’s nothing old-fashioned about AnnaLena, a smart Kitsilano bistro with white walls, black banquettes, and west coast wood trimmings. The modern menu, designed to share, might include kale salad with raw and confit radishes, buttermilk fried chicken with charred shishito peppers, and lamb neck with spaetzle, asparagus, and egg yolk gel. To sip? Local microbrews, B.C. wines, and fun cocktails.

  MAP 5: 1809 W. 1st Ave., 778/379-4052, www.annalena.ca; 5pm-late Tues.-Sun.

  Bishop’s $$$

  Chef-owner John Bishop helped pioneer Vancouver’s farm-to-table movement long before the 100-mile diet was on the lips of every locavore. At Bishop’s namesake classy, white-tablecloth restaurant, adorned with works by local artists, the polished staff can guide you to seasonal suppers that might start with tuna tartare served with pickled garlic scapes or a duck and quail terrine, before continuing with Haida Gwaii halibut paired with roasted cauliflower or heritage pork with clams, corn, and grilled peaches. Finish with a summer berry oat crumble or the Valhrona chocolate terrine topped with espresso ice cream.

  MAP 5: 2183 W. 4th Ave., 604/738-2025, www.bishopsonline.com; 5:30pm-11pm Tues.-Sun.

  Fable $$$

  While the name Fable—“from farm to table”—may be a bit earnest, the kitchen at this Kitsilano eatery has a sense of humor, with starters like an oversize duck meatball that bursts open to sauce the tagliatelle it’s served on, and sweets like “Oops, I Dropped the Dessert,” a mash-up of rhubarb, vanilla custard, and ice cream. In between are hearty unpretentious plates featuring local seafood, meats, and fresh veggies. Sit at the long counter to watch the chefs at work, or sink into a banquette beneath the exposed brick wall in the dining room.

  MAP 5: 1944 W. 4th Ave., 604/732-1322, www.fablekitchen.ca, 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm Sat.-Sun.

  Mission $$$

  At the front of this sophisticated Kitsilano restaurant, you can settle into the lounge for cocktails and casual plates to share, but to experience what chef-owner Curtis Luk is known for, make a reservation in the narrow, white-walled main dining room. There, you’ll indulge in a locally focused multicourse meal, offered in either vegetarian or “omnivore” versions, with optional wine pairings. Your most difficult mission may be to choose between four ($45) or six ($65) courses, where the changing parade of dishes might include squash blossoms with fromage frais and saffron potatoes, pork with compressed watermelon, or humpback shrimp paire
d with tomatoes and almond cream.

  MAP 5: 2042 W. 4th Ave., 604/739-2042, http://missionkits.ca; 5:30pm-10:30pm Mon.-Fri., 10:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-midnight Sat., 10:30am-2pm and 5:30pm-11pm Sun.

  THAI

  S Maenam $$

  Serving modern Thai cuisine in a minimalist Kitsilano space, Maenam brightens Vancouver’s dark nights with banana blossom salad, grilled fermented sausage with crispy rice, and flavorful curries. If you can’t decide, go for the six-course chef’s menu ($45 pp). Asian-inspired cocktails, like the tang kwa luck (cucumber-infused gin, lime, lemongrass, ginger, and Balinese long pepper), or the alcohol-free house-made ginger beer pair well with the brightly flavored dishes.

  MAP 5: 1938 W. 4th Ave., 604/730-5579, www.maenam.ca, 5pm-10pm Sun.-Mon., noon-2pm and 5pm-10pm Tues.-Sat.

 

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